The UNCOMFORTABLE TRUTH about building custom furniture.

have you ever lied to a client before let me rephrase has a client ever asked you for something seemingly innocuous to them and you said even though you have no idea how you're going to do it or how long it's going to take now something like this looks pretty simple but 25 hours of work later and I learned a valuable lesson that a lot of Woodworkers never learn and I wasn't 100 sure that this drawer wouldn't hit my client's knees so I had to come up with a plan B for that and for this desk I actually talked the client out of the recess power outlet in favor of this detail but I only had one shot to get it right and I needed some help to get it right here's how it all went down so desk number one which is going to be a podcast desk started out as this large Walnut Live Edge slab that I picked up from my buddies down at Willard Brothers wood cutters in Trenton New Jersey they were nice enough to flatten it for me although we will have to flatten it again later Lola conducted her thorough inspection now you can see the rough outline of the desk on the top of the slab that shape was laid out from this cardboard template that the client and I created based on the shape that she wanted and the space that it's going in now I flip the slab over and I traced it on the bottom because to be honest I thought the bottom looked a little bit better but I got overruled I used a jigsaw just to trim off the sharpness of some of those live edges on the corners and on the longer edges now we can let that rest and we can get to work on prepping the slabs for desk number two now these beautiful air dried slabs I bought from my buddy Travis ruling down at Middle Valley Lumber and I brought these down down to my buddies at true trade carpentry where I could cut them to rough length and then slide them on over to their big old Laguna CNC and get these nice and flat now these are book match slabs and I would have loved to have book Matched them for the top but just the position of the crotch and the ultimate Dimensions that we needed for this top I wasn't able to do that but with them flattened we could pull them off the CNC put them on the saw horses and then using the track saw I'm gonna rip one straight edge off of each side and then take them over to this monster 16-inch Joiner to get a nice square flat Edge and because two slabs with a live Edge on each side are a little tough to Wrangle in the clamps I'm using the Festool Domino to give me perfect alignment across the top when I clamp this up so with the mortises cut I could roll on some glue and ultimately turn two slabs into one those dominoes bring everything together perfectly and then with a handful of clamps and unbeknownst to me dripping glue all over the freshly cleaned floor Mike's swooping in to help me out with a wet bag thanks Mike and while the glue was drying back at my shop I could get to prepping all the Walnut for the desk legs now I'm not going to go into a lot of detail on these legs as I did an intensive Deep dive into the construction and major issues I had in a separate video that I'll link here on screen if I cover design obstacles lots of mistakes lots of problem solving as well as some techniques I've never tried on a grand scale like this but I was really happy the way they came out and hey they got four and a half stars on Rotten Tomatoes now let's dive back into the desktops now the steel mounting plates for these legs need to be recessed in the underside of the desks to do this I'm using the shaper origin I'm using a quarter inch bit to cut the outline of the plate first note these lines here these are going to be my reference lines that I carry around to the front so I know exactly where my leg is once that outline is cut I Chuck up a half inch bit in my smaller router with a big base plate and clear away the rest of the material then I could flip this bad boy over and start laying out for probably the most challenging part of this whole build which is cutting the recess in the top of the desk and the grain match cover plate for the USB and power outlet that will be installed Now using a cardboard template and the layout lines that I transferred from the other side I'm able to lay out a precise location for this Outlet so it doesn't interfere with the steel mounting plate below and yet it's close enough so I can chase the cord under the desk and down into the leg where it can be plugged into the floor now the recessed power outlet I'm going to use is the PCS 106a low profile power grommet provided by Doug market and Company it has two 15 amp power outlets one usba input and one USBC input now you may not know it to look at them but Doug Market has been in business for over 40 years they are the leader in Innovative Furniture components and Architectural Hardware they're high quality furniture hardware and accessories include everything from power units to drawer poles to table legs and a ton more so be sure to check out all the amazing products they offer at market.com so after carefully transferring the location of this recessed outlet from the bottom over to the top now my cardboard template I could cut that window in my cardboard template and lay it over and double check it to the position that I had marked it looks pretty good and now I'm going to use one of the world's smallest router bits from bits and bits this 1 32nd of an inch router bit so fragile but it's only eighth in shank so I need a quarter inch to eighth inch collet reducer to fit into the shaper origin now with everything laid out in my center lines marked I could use the shaper plate get that in alignment now this is a non-stick plate with the Domino tape already in it now with a 32 inch diameter bit you're really only supposed to plunge to a 64th depth but I threw costume of the wind and went a full 30 second but I also went with a ridiculously slow feed rate each pass around this rectangle took over two minutes and since the maximum cutting depth of this router bit is 7 16 of an inch I had to make 14 or 15 passes to get to that depth so a half an hour just to get down to that 7 16 but this was only step one which was actually a big relief that I didn't break a bit and I had a nice even Square crisp outline all the way around now to flip this thing over and figure out how I'm going to plunge or route through the bottom to perfectly line up with the location of that cut on the front I'm actually having flashbacks reliving this experience as I talk about it how about that for a knuckle buster now my buddy Jason Hibbs bourbon moth did help me strategize a way to strategorize how I could accomplish this now ideally if they made a 1 32nd inch bit that was two inches long I could have drilled that through the front side and made four access holes in the corner but they don't make such fit so I use my card board template again flopped the other way and use my alignment lines or my layout lines to line up with my plate then I can transfer the location of my cutout and hope that it was in the right position you can take all the measurements you want but inevitably sometimes you just gotta make the plunge and hope all your layout work was accurate so I switched to a quarter inch bit here and what I'm aiming for is to make this outline a little bit bigger than the outline on the front because I'm eventually going to have to fill it with a slug so that the outlet coming from the top has something to grab onto I know that doesn't really make much sense but it will all become Crystal Clear very soon so I had to make several passes at about a quarter inch depth each time all the way around and after each pass I would look down in the slot and see if I could see my cut line from the front so after several passes I knew I was getting close so I taped some green tape on top so that my plug basically wouldn't fall through or get damaged by the router bit spinning and then I could peel off the tape and break free my rectangular Walnut plug as you can see I taped it from the other side to make sure it wouldn't fall through I had this Ridge all the way around I'm about a sixteenth of an inch off center in One Direction so really really close I was super stoked when I saw that stoked who am I Spicoli and then over at the bandsaw I could slice off by grain match cover plate from the waist below and I was really afraid there might be some tension in this piece and that cover plate wouldn't be flat but luckily it held its flatness then back to the shape of origin to cut the plug that will backfill the Box bottom of that giant plug we just took out so what this is going to do is basically create a ridge all the way around that hole so that when the outlet drops in it sits on that and then also the little screws with the wing nuts sticking out the side have something to grab onto so after I did that on the shaper then at the bandsaw I cut it out and then I could drop it in place and make sure I had a nice tight fit which with the origin you always do but that was only step one with this it was obviously going to sit too high so over at the bandsaw I ripped it to width or depth or height in this case I guess now before I could glue in that plug I needed to Route out a channel for a little wire management so just using some plywood butted that up to my plastic Channel and then a pattern bit and made said Channel this was actually a little right angle I had to come around the corner to be able to feed that wire down through the leg into the outlet in the floor I'm using hide glue here because I was afraid with PVA glue as I spread it around round and put it on the plug it may start to swell that and then I wouldn't be able to hammer it in with the high glue nice and slippery it's not going to swell the joint and it made putting this in a lot easier it's over that block and a band-aided middle finger I could hammer it into place you can see it's about a quarter of an inch below the surface and while I had the shape of origin out I figured I'd cut the recess for the other mounting plate for the round leg so I can just type in my Dimensions create that rectangle with a radius drop it in place and cut it out and just like the other recess I used a half inch bit and a big router plate to clear away the remaining waste then it was threaded insert time this will allow me to bolt the mounting plate which is bolted to the leg to the underside of the desk and speaking of the and speaking of the steel mounting plates how about we take a field trip over to my buddy Ryan shop at liquid Metalworks and watch his laser cut these things out now this is quarter inch thick steel plate and if I remember correctly each one took about two and a half minutes to cut all those elongated holes and to cut out the shape of the plate itself when those were all cut nice little conveyor brings them out they're still a little hot kind of like they just came out of the oven and Ryan separates them from the giant sheet and there you have it hey and remember those slabs we glued up at the beginning of the video for the second desk well let's get to work on that now the client wanted kind of a bean shaped on this and rather than doing this by hand I just created a file popped it in the shaper and then I'm just going to cut out each end to that shape I created the Power of technology and with the initial shape roughed out with a quarter inch bit then I just followed that outline with a jigsaw and then came back with a big old pattern bit and once the shape of this desk was established I took it back down to the Boys At true trade carpentry for one final flattening hoisted it above and headed back to my shop the next step on this one was to build the drawer but first I needed to lay out the location of each leg on the underside so I could center the drawer between them and then figure out my exact dimensions for the drawer and then build it all right and here's what we know so far the height of this desk is 30 inches the top is about an inch and a half so I really need to make this drawer as shallow as possible where it's still usable but also won't hit the person's knees when they roll under it in their desk chair now when I check the two desks I have at home that have drawers underneath they were both 31 and a half inches tall so I started to freak out I mean the drawer was a pretty big requirement on this build by the client so the last thing I want to do is get this thing delivered installed and he goes to slide under his desk and skins his knee well if he's wearing shorts but I decided to proceed with the drawer and in the back of my mind thinking of a plan B just in case it was hanging too low so I resawed some Walnut for the drawer box for the drawer front and then also for the frame that is going to need to surround this thing that it can actually hang from and also hide the back of the drawer when you look from the front of the desk I stacked and stickered that material letting it reacclimate to my shop and in the meantime I started laying out for my mounting plates on the underside of this desk as you can see Jerry super helpful as always never in the way like I said never in the way oh by the way I'm super tired and yeah it's late and once again I use the shape of origin to cut the outline for the recess of the plate and then went to set up the plunge router and look who showed up to help or derail my progress who me and when Jerry finally skedaddled out of the way I was able to cut that recess and then double check the fit of the plate perfect as you can see I leave about a quarter inch to 5 16 at each end which allows for wood movement as well and I did the same thing with the large mounting plate at the other end okay what I have here are the parts for my drawer I have a back and a front and a couple sides and then a couple options for the real front which is this beautiful crotch figured Walnut not sure which piece or which front I'm going to use on that now for the drawer bottom typically I would probably use a quarter inch MDF and then skin it with eighth inch hardwood but that would give me a half inch thick bottom drawer and I don't need to go that thick with this small of a drawer so I'm going for 3 8 and I had some of this eighth inch Walnut that I had resent a while ago for another project and some white oak so I'm going to make my own plywood I'm gonna have a walnut layer on the bottom and then alternate the grain for the middle layer and then alternate the grain back that's going to make this super strong and nice and flat so I'm gonna get this glued up and slid into the back bag let that sit in there for about an hour and I don't want to cut the groove in my drawer sides front and back until this is out of the backpack and I know the exact thickness that way I have a nice fit when it slides in and there's a variety of options you can use for joinery on this drawer box since there's going to be a false front could just pocket screw these you could use biscuits could hand cut dovetails machine cut dovetails I am just going to use some simple rabbets but then pin them with some copper pins because I think on this one we're going to fill this with copper powder and epoxy this inclusion here just as a nice detail it'll match those pins and it will also match the copper pull on this access door so you gotta coordinate so I'm actually going to glue each layer together since it's a couple separate pieces I'm using some tape here and I'm stretching it to get that nice and I'm stretching it to get a nice tight joint from there I folded it open put a little bead of glue down that joint and then kind of closed it back together and then I'm spreading Glue on all the panels and just making a little well it ends up being a white oak sandwich with some walnut bread I throw a piece of tape on the long Edge so these don't slip all over the place and I actually put a couple pieces on these short ends as well then I can slide it into the VAC bag I have a layer of melamine on top and bottom which is non-stick so any glue that comes through will not stick then I can just turn on the compressor and watch the magic happen an hour or so later that PVA glue it had sufficient enough time to set so then I could release the air pressure and pull it out of the bag but first Lord Jerry needed to descend from his layer on high must be dinner time next up is the drawer box but first let's talk about the sponsor of today's video bespoke post now bespoke post is a monthly membership club delivering a box of awesome top shelf goods from under the radar Brands it's free to join and you can skip a month or just cancel any time I can dig that now every month they introduce their members to cool new product which are chosen based on the quiz you take when signing up stuff like outdoor gear barware even live oysters and each box of awesome has around 70 dollars in value but you only pay a fraction of that price and ninety percent of the products in bespoke post boxes come from small Brands many of which are based right here in the United States just like Forge this Damascus steel knife made by Buck and Bear knives in Pennsylvania which is pretty close to me so based on your quiz results you'll get a box of awesome assigned to you each month and you'll get a preview of what comes inside before it shipped so you can decide if you want to keep it swap it for a different box or just skip the month entirely for absolutely no charge that's right only pay for what you want now based on my quiz results bespopo sent me a couple things let's see what we got all right so first up is beam and I can use my new Damascus knife cut this open foreign we have a headlamp here 600 lumens good for 150 meters on a 10 hour battery charge or a couple different color lenses this seems like it'd be great for camping or changing a flat tire at night or thanks what was that now what's in here oh slippers and what is this eucalyptus and Bergamot perhaps what you've never snuck into the shop late at night and your slippers to buff your wood and it just so happens that Mother's Day and Father's Day are right around the corner and a bespoke post subscription could be the perfect gift you've been looking for so to get 20 off your first box of awesome click the link in the description and enter Keith johnson20 at checkout or just go to bespokeost.com Keith johnson20 and thank you to bespoke post for sponsoring this video now for the drawer bottom to actually be secured into the drawer I needed to cut some grooves in the drawer sides front and back I'm doing this with multiple cuts at the table saw eighth of an inch at a time until I get my 3 8 of an inch width which matches the thickness of the drawer bottom and after that final pass I raised the blade all the way up and cut my drawer back so now it'll be flush with the drawer bottom and there won't actually be a Groove in that back panel the joinery is pretty simple just a rabbit but they will have some copper pins so I ran a test piece first on the sled that made all my cuts and then I could size my drawer bottom to fit cut those holes for the pinned rabbet and then start gluing this thing up now after I glued up the front and the sides I decided to pre-finish the inside of everything including the drawer bottom and the drawer box because when you're using a hard wax oil and you're trying to finish the inside of those Corners it can be difficult now the drawer pant now the drawer bottom needs to move front to back because it's solid wood so I put a couple of slot shots and then some hardwood screws in there that'll allow that panel to move should it feel the need to now that the drawer box was glued up I could finish the full depth of the holes for the copper pins so with the belt sander I just kind of pillow that end and then Chuck it up in the drill press and go through all my grits up to 1500 grit and then 4 ought steel wool and then these yellow Sunshine polishing cloths which have a little abrasive in it but really shine it up I cut all my pins to length at the metal band saw and then with a little thick so and a little Jerry I could epoxy these in place now it's a little delicate here you want to make sure that you don't Hammer these in too far you want to get them just above the surface so you get a little tactile feel there just like that and what the heck is going on over here and now to add a little more copper flare to the drawer front mixing up some total boat high performance with some copper metal powder metal powders USA Jerry don't touch that once it's fully mixed then I'm just going to pour it in all these cracks and let this cure at least 24 hours when that's done I run it through the planer real quick and you can see and once I go through all my grits and polish this up those areas should have a nice copper look to them so here was my plan B in case the drawer was sat too low and got in the way I cut all these segments of walnuts and then glued them up so I could cut them down into a circle which would essentially act as a riser for the round leg so I made this little template here which is about three quarters of an inch smaller in diameter than the round leg then I could cut off the waist and then head to the router table to flush trim it now the idea here is this will create a one inch Riser I did the same thing for the pancake oval desk leg each of them are created a little bit smaller in size than the desk leg to create a shadow line with those out of the way I could install the side mount slides on the drawer now I really wanted to use under mount slides here so you wouldn't see these however under mount slides add another three quarters of an inch roughly underneath the drawer so that would have been even more things that could possibly get in the way so I opted for the side mount slides in Black now what I'm gluing up here using the lamello Zeta P2 and the climax connectors is the frame that the drawer slides will hang from this will also cover the back of the drawer and the back of the slides when looking at the front of the desk now to work on the cord management option for the second desk I talked the client out of an actual Outlet in the surface and opted for this Mike coffee inspired design I'll put a link in the description below if you'd like to purchase his digital file and if you have nothing else to do you can check out his YouTube channel which is several steps but the result is pretty darn cool so using the shaper origin I first cut out that little rectangular inlay and then I could cut out the cover plate or essentially The Grommet that will cover the hole in the top of the desk after you run your plugs down through and to get the fuzz off the cover plate and the inlay I'm just running it across a little bit of sandpaper here now before actually inlaying them into the desktop I decided to put a coat of finish on first because well I didn't quite know exactly where the placement was going to be for that cord drop but I wanted to get ahead on the finishing and since I had two coats to put on anyway I figured let's get rolling so once that first coat of osmo hard wax oil was on I could wipe off all the excess until it was dried to the touch all right so you can see here on the desktop a bunch of layout lines the Yellow Tape indicates where my mounting plate is and then that white hash area indicates where I need to drop the cords through to actually find the middle of the leg and by the way I had to make a slight modification to the frame of the leg so that I could actually snake the cords down through not a big deal but until I bang my elbow Something Wicked there son of a I gave it a little round over just so there were no sharp edges where the cords were going to pass through okay back to the layout now my biggest design obstacle here was is it okay to put it at an angle or should it be perfectly parallel to the back Edge perpendicular to the back Edge I just couldn't make a decision so I phoned a friend my buddy Paul from copper Pig fine woodworking is always there to give me his honest opinion which I greatly respect so with that decision made I could move on to cutting into the desktop which is always nerve-wracking I only had one chance to get this right so to clear away the majority of that material I used a forstner bit it and then started with the shape or origin now this is a multi-step process to be honest there's probably a number of different ways you could approach it I started Excavating the area where my inlay was going to go I did the full depth first in the middle and then cut that recess around and then drop the inlay in now since I already had a coat of finish on this my goal was to get that inlay perfectly flush with the surface but it was just a little proud so I hit it with the block plane now for the little cover cap I'm going to embed a piece of metal in it and then have a magnetic key that allows you to pull it off you can really get it off with your finger but I think it's just a nice little detail and I cut the face grain plug right with the shaper origin out of the same piece of wood that I cut the actual cover cap it'll glue around the rim and then hammer in that plug I did use a flush trim saw to get the bulk off and then finished up with a block plane and some sandpaper now to give this a little contrast I'm using some India ink and I'm dyeing it black now ideally I would have dyed this black before putting in the inlay but since I wasn't sure if it was going to be flush and it wasn't I did it after the facts with a steady hand and a little brush I was actually able to keep it within the lines my kindergarten teacher would be so proud so the next step was to cut out the recess for the cover cap so I went around the outside edge first to create that stepped shoulder and then I went on the interior of the circle to clear out where that inlay had been put in and then I also routed parallel with that inlay to clear out the channel for the cords to drop in then we could drop in the cover cap now that's with a 0.002 offset I originally did it with a 0.05 offset and as you can see here too loose now the other detail I was unsure of was if I should die the entire recess on the inside from top to bottom and again my buddy Paula copper big said absolutely no question so I did and he was right now the cover plate for the other desk also needed some metal embedded in the back of it so that the magnetic keys I was going to make would have something to grab now these are just little half inch pieces of eighth inch thick steel that I embedded as deep as I could go which basically left a sixteenth of an inch of material on the front I squared off those Corners cut this elongated plug with the shaper origin glued it in place trimmed it flush with a flush trim saw and then finished off with a block plane and some sandpaper now to make the magnetic keys that would allow me to remove the face plate on the grain match desk and then the circular one on the cord drop through now since these desks are for a finance guy I thought it'd be pretty cool to inlay some dollar signs and then fill that with some epoxy with green pigment in it and to try to be as neat as possible I'm just using a syringe here I went about an eighth of an inch deep with those recesses I'll let this dry overnight and then I could run it through the planer to clear off the majority of that epoxy and as you can see there were a few pinholes in there so I ended up filling those and to remove those I just ran them vertically through the bandsaw and they popped right out now in the back of all these I needed to embed a magnet so the drill press I drilled just deep enough for these two n52 magnets so they would be flush with the surface and with a healthy amount of CA glue I'm gluing on a piece of 1 16 inch Walnut veneer to the bottom to cover that magnet and then a couple minutes later I could clear off the majority of the waste just with a utility knife and then head over the belt sander to flush everything up now with one coat of finish on the other desktop I could put it on the big old slab as well typical procedure here just using a squeegee to spread the finish all around and then a white Scotch Brite pad to work it all in let it set for a few minutes and then wipe off all the excess until it's dry to the touch now once I dry fit the recessed plug and the actual cover plate it was a little below the surface so I had to cut this sixteenth of an inch shim which actually wasn't too bad I just resawed it off of the plug that had come out of the bottom and then I glued that in and put a coat of finish on it and that brought everything up nice and flush across the top but the work on this little detail didn't stop there oh no when I put the cover plate in even though I only had a 30 second reveal all the way around there was no way for it to be perfectly centered every time you put it down in The Recess so my buddy Paul a copper Pig talked me off the ledge and say all you got to do the table saw cut a little recessed Channel all the way around that face plate and then glue in some black leather cord with some CA glue this will create a friction fit and it will perfectly Center it every time you drop it in but it will still be easy to remove the cover with the magnet it was a brilliant solution the bottom line don't be afraid to ask for help if you run into a problem if you call a while back we had glued up the drawer and put the coat of finish on there so now it was time to attach the drawer front so I'm starting by putting some enlarged holes in the front of the drawer box and then positioning the drawer front with a 30 second of an inch reveal clamp it using a drill bit to get the spot where my screws need to be and then I can just pre-drill those holes and then I'll drill through the back and attach it those enlarged holes allow me a little wiggle room with that drawer front before I secure it now before install day I had to put all the threaded inserts in the legs so I could actually Mount the mounting plates so to do this some double-sided tape I use the mounting plate to Mark out the holes for where I needed to drill for the threaded inserts then I could drill those in and pack and prep everything for delivery day first things first we could get our Doug Market PCS 106a Outlet installed in the top of the podcast desk so I can just snake the cord down through there and drop this in place now you can see those white wings with the screws there the reason I had to recess it actually a little below the surface on the other side was those screws are only so long so they needed something to grab onto then with some double-sided tape I could put in this little plastic channel so I could snake the cord around the corner and then down inside the leg little cover cap protects that from falling down install the mounting plate snake the cord down through that hole and then drop the leg into the recess and secure it with some bolts I do the same thing with the round leg attaching the mounting plate first flipping it over and attaching it to the underside of the desk and unbeknownst to me at the time I forgot to screw in the leg levelers so we ended up having to lift it back up onto the saw horses put those in and flip it back over once those were in and the outlet was plugged in into the floor then I could put the access panel on that worked out really well and Blended right in with the leg and after confirming with the desk chair that there was no need for these risers I could remove them and breathe a sigh of relief because I really didn't want to have to use them now for assembly of this desk I was flying solo so I had to place the top on saw horses prop up the legs grab a thread and then thread those bolts in on one end and then on the other then I could delicately slide out the saw horses let one side down as the thing Teeters like a seesaw and pull out the other then I could attach the drawer frame using the lamello connectors the clamax connectors just turn that Allen key over 170 pounds of clamping pressure and I have nine of them in there install the drawer snake this cord lamp down through there into the leg and into the floor there was a phone charger there too there'll also be a computer and monitor but in the meantime I could close up that access panel and I could pop in the recessed cover show you how the magnet works and then this desk was a challenge hey what about this desk huh remember the podcast desk with the recessed Outlet and the grain match cover plate now this one kept more of the vibe of the Live Edge slab look which is fantastic contrasting with the personal desk over there which is two slabs glued together but we really didn't maintain any character of the Live Edge either way it was a lot of Walnut a lot of work a lot more work than I thought which is pretty typical that's furniture making relating back to the intro where I said I learned a hard lesson that most Woodworkers never do and that is valuing your time charging for your time now when you're building one-off Studio pieces like this you can guesstimate how long it's going to take you based on previous projects and previous experience but you never really know how long it's going to take you so one of the key things to take away is when you promise a client a certain detail or something thinking it's going to be no problem I can do that sure no big deal 25 30 40 hours later and you're really not getting paid for that time so unless you're like me and you're masochist that just loves diving into the details and the extra time it takes I actually enjoy that because I enjoy the challenge so I chalk that up some of that to my actual free time not my actual paid time because every time I do a detail I've never done before it's almost like r d I'm pushing my limits on what I can do with design so it's fun for me frustrating but fun so it all comes down you want to make a living being a Furniture maker strictly build things sell them build things sell them or do you also want to get some personal gratification personal satisfaction growth as a woodworker and a Craftsman and it's very hard to put a value on that no client is going to pay for you to go to school so the next time you promise a client yeah I can do that no problem without actually thinking it through and coming up with a fair price to do it just remember I do it all the time thanks so much for watching we'll see you on the next one this thing on nope

Channel: Keith Johnson Woodworking

Views: 432,798

Keywords: custom furniture, kjsawdust, keith johnson woodworking, keith johnson desk, keith johnson walnut desk, black walnut desk, walnut desk, live edge desk build, podcast desk, walnut furniture, walnut office desk, walnut desk with drawers, live edge furniture, modern desk, how to build a desk, Woodworking, woodworking business, starting a woodworking business, wood working

Id: MCKYmJv46ak

Length: 32min 57sec (1977 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 11 2023