Building My Shop : How To Drywall, Plywood Walls & Fiber Cement Panels

what's going on everybody I'm Johnny Brook welcome back to another craft workshop video so this is part number three of my shop build series and in this week's video I'm going to show you how we covered all of these walls in the shop with plywood and also fiber cement board and up in the front of this space we added some drywall this is my first time ever doing any drywall work so it was a bit of a learning experience so people you guys enjoy this one let's go ahead and get started with the video let's start with the drywall since that part of this process was by far the most time-consuming so first we needed to get the sheets hung on the wall which was easy enough and we set up the trusty line laser to give us a level reference line since this floor is so out of whack and then we could start hanging the sheets since the total length of this section of wall was 14 feet we cut two feet off of the first sheet and cutting drywall is extremely simple you just score line through the front face of the panel then snap the panel along the score line and finally you cut through the backing of the drywall and you're done so to hang the panel we use drywall screws and we also picked up this little drywall roll lifter and used it a ton on this build it allowed us to raise and lower these panels really precisely before screwing them in place and all the link to the one we used in the video description below on this first panel we lined up the top edge of the panel with the laser added a few screws to hold it in place and then added the rest of the screws and Justin had a few of these drywall screw setters and they worked perfectly with our impact drivers these bits drive the screws to the perfect depth without breaking the paper and I would highly recommend picking these up if you don't have something like a collated screw gun next we hung the second panel in the row which was a full length piece in this case and once again we used the lifter to bring the panel in line with the laser and then added the screws on the second row we staggered the seams of the panel's which helps to minimize future cracks since it spreads out the load but it also makes tape in the seams later easier and we added screws every 16 inches through the center of the panels and then every eight inches along the edges other than that this first wall was basically just rinse and repeat and since it had no outlet or other things to cut around with the first wall done we could move on to the adjoining wall and the first panel was cut to length and hung and then we could work on the second panel and Justin left this panel full length and then used a drywall saw to cut along the header in the door opening you can then score the other side of the panel and then cut the rest of the piece away with a utility knife and from there we just continued working up the wall filling in pieces where needed and we decided to do the outside and inside walls of the office area and plywood mostly because drywall is a pain so we only needed to do these two walls once the panels were all hung we could move on to taping and mudding which was by far the most time-consuming part of the process first Justin thinned out this all-purpose mud slightly with water which just made it easier to spread evenly the mudding process started on the horizontal seams since these drywall panels have beveled edges and these edges need more mud to become level and it's also easier to run the tape for the vertical seams into these horizontal seams after they're already taped chapter applying the first layer of mud with a four-inch joint knife Justin rolled out the drywall tape across the seam and one tip here is to apply the tape very lightly only tapping it into place in a few spots so once the strip of tape was applied Justin used the same four inch knife to press the tape into place after pressing the tape into place Justin would remove any excess mud around the seam with the joint knife the process continued in the same way along the entire length of the seam applying mud to fill in the beveled edge applying tape then smoothing the tape and removing the excess mud with the joint knife and the vertical seams worked in basically the same way except we could apply less mud since again the ends of the panel's aren't beveled like the edges also the tape on the vertical seams would overlap the tape on the horizontal seam slightly where those two seam is met next I could try my hand at taping and mudding my first drywall seam and it went okay I was initially applying the mud with too much pressure which wasn't leaving enough mud on the surface also when I applied the tape I press it into place to firmly which didn't allow the tape to move with the joint knife when smoothing it out which resulted in increase eventually got it though and ended up with a pretty decent looking seam that's it Justin was still a hell of a lot better at this than I was so he continued taping and mudding the seams while I focused on filling all the screw holes I also made sure to double-check that all of the screws were below the surface of the drywall during this step as they'd be much more difficult to hide if they weren't fully seated the ends of the walls and corner would the last thing to get taped and mudded so for the inside corner Justin applied mud to both phases of the corner increased a length of tape down the center before applying it to the seam for the corner against the concrete wall the applied tape flat against the panels and used the excess mud to fill in the gap between the edge of the drywall and the concrete after taping Justin applied another layer of mud over the tape and then we let it dry overnight the next day we could come back and apply the second coat of mud this time using a wider knife and the goal here is to fan the mud out over the subsequent codes which kind of feathers the seams resulting in an invisible seam between the panels and you can see that Justin would apply the mud heavily across the seam then scrape off the excess from the outer edges leaving the majority of the mud right at the center of the seam and he would then spread that mud out removing any excess during the process in total Justin applied four coats of mud over the course of about four days working up from the original four-inch knife to a 12 inch knife for the final coat after the last coat of mud a dried we could move on to everyone's favorite part of drywall work sanding this is an incredibly dusty process so definitely wear a respirator and plan to go home and shower afterwards and we just use sanding blocks here since it was a relatively small area so with the sanding done the drywall was pretty much finished and just needed to have the dust vacuumed off before paint so next we could move on to the plywood walls which were much easier than the drywall and we actually started this process a few weeks ago prior to installing the insulation covering one side of the partition wall so first we made a mark at about 97 inches off the ground and then set up the line laser at that mark and the extra inch of clearance off the ground would allow us to keep the plywood lined up while staying clear of the undulating floor on this first sheet we tried a technique that didn't really work well but I'll show it to you anyway so we mounted these scrap blocks of wood in line with the laser which we could then but the sheet of plywood up against when hanging it and this would have probably worked well but the edges of this plywood weren't dead straight so it was easier to just line the sheets up with the laser by eye we tacked the first sheet in place with a few screws and then could work on cutting the second sheet to fit the door opening I used my track saw for this but a circular saw would have worked just as well and since the round saw blade doesn't cut all the way to the corner we finished the cut with either an oscillating tool or jigsaw or she'll just have to trust the Justin's doing here once the panel was cut we could get it mounted since we knew the first sheet was plumb and level we could just reference the top edge of the first sheet and line the second sheet up with that edge once we tack the panel in place I would come back and add the rest of the screws while Justin worked on cutting the next sheet in the row I headed screws roughly every 12 inches since we used trim head screws here which have slightly less holding power than screws with bigger heads but look much better in my opinion also rather than marking out the stud locations I could just use the line laser and add screws along that line and this was much quicker than marking out the locations and your walls won't be left with any marks on them and we just continued working down the row with Justin cutting the panels and me adding the screws also I realized I didn't get footage of cutting around this electrical box but I'll cover that a little bit later so with the first row done we can move up to the second row to finish this side of the partition wall we could cross cut the panels for the second row cutting all of them to the same length to keep them aligned the panels had to be notched around the first row of lights which we did with the jigsaw also I've got to say this scaffolding was a lifesaver during this whole build-out definitely worth the investment if you're gonna be taking on a project like this I'll the link to the scaffolding we used in the video description below the next panel in this row had a round electrical box to work around and Justin used a hole saw to cut this opening although the jigsaw would have also worked after that it was really just rinse and repeat to finish off this partition wall and now we can fast-forward to after the insulation was installed one quick tip here on this wall I figured out that the laser was easier to see if I set it up a few feet off the floor on a ladder as that made it brighter at the top of the panel so that the line could be seen even under the bright shop lights also here's a close-up of that role lifter which even has a built-in bottle opener and again I'll have a link to it in the video description it was incredibly useful during this whole process all right let's take a look at the process of cutting around the outlet boxes so Justin would take some measurements referencing off of the previous panel and then would lay them out on the panel using his level and speed square at straight edges and since we mounted the electrical boxes using the line laser we knew they were level and in line with one another so Justin could extend the horizontal lines for both boxes with the level to cut out the openings he would drill a starter hole with a spade bit and then cut out the opening with the jigsaw and the big trick I picked up here was to undercut the openings by angling the jig saw which made lining up the electrical box with the cutout much easier while still keeping a nice tidy reveal around the box as you can see the cutouts lined up just about perfect and the undercut openings made lining everything up super easy so we just kept repeating this process down this wall stopping at the metal working section where we used fiber cement board as the wall covering which we'll get to a little bit later to fill in the second row I could use the offcuts from the top row of the partition wall and I crosscut these two width using my table saw that said a circular saw or track saw would have worked fine here as well so this top row went extremely quickly and with that done we could move on to the right side of the shop and the process on this wall was pretty much the same with the only difference being that this wall is 12 feet tall versus 10 feet on the other wall so we could just cross cut the sheets of plywood in half to fill in the top row while we're working on the right wall let's talk about the sponsor of this week's video 84 lumber 84 lumber is a leading supplier of building materials and building supplies for single and multi-family residences and commercial buildings I worked with my local 84 lumber store to work out a bill of materials for this project and they delivered the materials on time and were extremely easy to work with also 84 lumber isn't just for building professionals and commercial contractors either they're happy to work with do-it-yourselfers like you and me to learn more about 84 lumber and find a location near you visit 84 lumber calm or click the link in the video description below and thanks again to 84 lumber for sponsoring this week's video so with that the plywood in the shop was finished so we can move on to the plywood walls in the office so the first boards that get installed were on the ceiling which we needed to trim about three and a half inches off of since the office has an interior depth of 8 feet - the width of the studs next Justin cut out the holes for the can lights and then we could get the first ceiling panel installed so Justin whipped up a pair of these deadman supports out of leftover two by fours and they made installing the ceiling much easier we would lift the panel onto one dead man and then lift the other end of the panel using the other dead man and these are just wedged against the floor and provide hands-free support of the panel so with the panel supported I could go back and add screws to hold the ceiling panel in place we repeated the process for the second ceiling panel and I could continue adding screws while Justin cut the last ceiling panel to size and while I ran screws along the studs roughly every 12 inches on the walls I used an eighth inch spacing on the ceiling as the last thing I want is this ceiling coming down on top of me once that last panel was mounted on the ceiling we could move on to the walls which went up basically just like the shop walls with the exception being that we needed to cut a slight angle on the top of the panels to account for the slope of the floor and you also might have noticed that I finally broke down and got a tool pouch during this part of the build mainly to hold the trim screws and I drove in about 2200 of these trim screws while mounting the plywood so needless to say I needed to have more screws close at hand during the whole process with the inside of the office done we can move on to the outside which was mostly more of the same after adding the first row of panels in the wall I cut the pieces to for the kind of above the office storage area and got those mounted to the tops of the joists and this area will be great for kind of longer-term storage items the last pieces of plywood to attach were the second row on the office walls which we cut wide enough so that they covered the ends of the panels on top of the ceiling and let me tell you I was pretty excited when it came time to get that last piece of plywood installed so with that the plywood was done so we can move on to the last bit of wall covering which was in the metal working area of the shop and we decided to go with these Nicci panel fiber cement panels from 84 lumber as they'll be more flame resistant than regular plywood one negative about these types of panels is they can be slightly fragile at the corners so we did a few tests and found that one of these tile drill bits work great for drilling holes for our screws so for the screws we use these inch and a quarter power head screws from fastcap which provide a ton of holding power and what again helped to keep these panels from breaking off of the corners unlike a normal bugle head screw before installing the panel's we would mark out all of the screw locations and drill the holes and we also worked on these panels outside because cutting or drilling into them is extremely dusty to cut around in the electrical boxes we used an angle grinder with a diamond cutting wheel which made really quick work of this process and hanging the panel's was just like the rest of the wall coverings and having the holes pre-drilled made the process go extremely quickly so we just continued on down the wall once again with me driving screws while Justin cut around any obstructions and luckily we ended up with a full sheet in the end of the wall which was just kind of a happy accident so for the top row we did need to cross cut the panels so we swapped out the standard circular saw blade for a blade design for cutting fiber cement which you can see has very few teeth compared to a regular wood cutting blade and cutting the panel's was incredibly messy but went pretty much as quickly as cutting the plywood and then I could pre-drill the holes and get the last row mounted and with that last piece in place we could call this part of the project complete alright hopefully you guys enjoyed this one this work has really kind of brought this space into feeling more more like a shop and it is getting super close to being able to be moved into so next week's video is going to cover installing some vinyl plank flooring in the front kind of office and photo wall area it's gonna really make that space look a lot better so that will be out next week so if you're not already subscribed go ahead and get subscribed and ring that little notification bell so you don't miss that video and I guess that's it so thanks again for watching everybody and until next time happy building

Channel: Crafted Workshop

Views: 184,104

Rating: 4.9167137 out of 5

Keywords: how to drywall, drywall, drywall installation and finishing, drywall installation, drywall diy, diy drywall installation, drywall finishing, how to install drywall tape, sheetrock, sheet rock, plywood, plywood walls, wood walls diy, plywood walls garage, plywood walls in house, how to install cement board, fiber cement siding, cement board, wall, workshop, crafted workshop, diy, howto, how-to, build, wood walls, workshop build, construction, do it yourself, tutorial, home improvement

Id: i2vy03dI-gk

Length: 15min 35sec (935 seconds)

Published: Thu May 09 2019