Building a Wallclock - Episode 3 - | Paul Sellers

so now I have to form a step here on the front edge to get rid of this 3/8 overhang here I'm going to mark it and then set this front edge to do that I really need to have it clamped up to make sure this is seated properly and for that I need four clamps obviously if I clamp too much here because of this leverage here it's going to open that back edge up so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to take a little pressure on there and a little pressure on here turn it over put my clamps on to this side and this way I can check it for square before are marked with front edges which is very important to have this exact so my joints are really seating nicely because I've planed the end square I've got the bottom of my housing dedos done with the hand router which guarantees the depth again no different than a power outer but much safer and my energy goes into it so let's check this now for square you can't really put a square on this to check it for square so the best way to go is to go corner to corner with a tape so I'm going here and that measures 18 and a half inches just a hair over and that one's measure 18 and 5/8 so all right this is a longer corner so I can adjust my clumps here just slightly out of parallel and that will usually bring me dead square so that's looking good and that's looking good so we're square so now I can take a knife I know these are fully seated so I can take a knife right into these inside corners here on that front edge because I need to make this step down so this will move forward so I make a very neat little knife mark here a neat mark here here only a small mark I don't need a long mark because I'm going to use the square because that will guarantee that this shoulder is dead square you'll be able to see that in a minute so take the clamps off set them aside I want least to be exact simply because when I glue this up when I put this finally together I want the whole of the top of this to seat perfectly against the depth of the housing dado that way I get maximum glue up maximum maximum surface glue now I can take this apart you start seeing how accurate these joints are on you now what I might do is how much - even though I can still Marcus from out so I'm going to start marking this so X is going to X and I'm going to put an X X here X and then I'm going to put this just to make sure I'm in the right place zero or an O there that's O so I know that these parts have been tested and proven to fit in the right place so two O's on this one and two O's on this one and I'm ready now because I know which is the front edge so I need to put these little step downs in here I've got the exact mark lines so here I go back to my square this square is so critical to all your work everything gets cross-referenced and checked with the square every sore cut every chisel mark usually references to a square so I go across this face edge and I go onto the broad face doesn't really matter if you overshoot you can go past that edge the same on this one like this up to the other hand here and on to here the only thing I'm lacking now is the depth of that get of that term the distance from the front edge to there so I'm going to look at my ex and my ex there it is so here what I'm going to do is I'm going to just flush the back up here with this you can use a straight edge if you want to and then I'm going to take my knife right onto that corner there wouldn't matter if it was short it doesn't really make much difference another mark this directly from that knife mark I got I'm going to get my knife wall perfectly here now I went down on both sides so I can go directly with a small saw like this one I'm just using a small diff tail saw to cut that frustrated shoulder right on the line and you can either this is entirely up to you you can saw like this but I typically I would just go with my chisel right up against that knife line and I would chop it out I turn this around because the knife that the the sauce sometimes cuts away from that knife wall so I'm just cleaning up this wall here just slightly like that so when I offer these two into their final position this goes in here like this and I'm flush with the back and I'm down to the front edge you can see a nice crisp clean line perfectly executed and that's what you want on all four of these so that's what we'll do now I've gone ahead and cut the other three step downs on this step housing dado so I'm just putting it together because I want to mark the next stage and make sure I do things some of the irreversible things now we've got to run grooves around this inside face I want to make sure that that's done properly we're going to be running some molding on this inside edge here I want to make sure that's done properly what I'm going to do is make sure I've completed everything before I do any molding or anything else because I want to I want to start running the grooves next and this is a key part in in this project because we have this rail here we're going to have a rail inside here a rail set inside here and then we're going to run a groove in here and a groove in here so we're going to run grooves in these side pieces first using a conventional plow plane and you'll see how efficient this is too so let's move on to that now and see see how we set up the plane and everything good cup of tea one thing that I've got to do now while I've got this assembled and I know all the joints fit well I want to just make an imaginary line here or a temporary line on here and here just to ensure because I'm going to be running grooves along here and along here and it would be a tragedy to put the groove on the outside or on the back edge I don't want to do that so so I'm going to mark that there and also I want to mark the inside edge here because this is the edge where I'm going to be running the mold shortly so I'm running those marks there so I know exactly where everything goes now I can disassemble and place the things I don't need out of the way and we're going to run a groove into the inside faces here and here so I need to set that up because wherever I set this groov is going to mark the position of where these go so I want this to set back from that front edge about 1/8 of an inch so then I want quarter of an inch here so so there I've got 1/8 so I'm going 3/8 of an inch from this front edge here I'm going to then run a 3/8 groove in here so I'll show you how we do that this is really a neat part of the whole operation I'm going to set this in the vise like this just temporary I'm going to set it this way and see how I've left this quarter of an inch above here set my distance here make sure I have enough thread set it above so that when you tighten this up you don't necessarily catch the ends of these with the plane what this is clear plane here and here then drop this down in the vise like that since this tight slacken off like this so this piece is now free so I know this is this could do with going down just got a hair more like that make sure you have enough substance on the jaw to catch the vise and here along this edge I want to make sure I'm missing the whole edge of the vise so I'm content with that so now I can reach for a pile plane this is a record player plane but the modern-day version of this would be somewhat various makes one and so does Lee Nelson I believe this has got a 3/8 cutter in it it's ready to go so I want to set this fence 3/8 from my cutter and then with it my cutter is 3/8 these are not very complicated you consume work out how these work you might find it better to actually mark the surface of your wood with a pencil exactly if you prefer so you can set your plane directly to it you want to make sure these are cinched very tightly here and here and also that they're set tightly here because you don't want this to move and they can move if you're not guarded so set this on the work and then start right at the nose here so we're going to go all the way through this edge here so just start at the nose and check your cutter is lining up a move further back with each stroke so you want to make sure that nothing is catching on the end of the vise make sure nothing is catching under this edge here gently take off a little pass at a time so you're actually forming a little cloud mark in the surface there once you've gone in just check yourself make sure nothing's tearing along this edge if it is tearing you can set a gauge or you can use a straightedge with a knife whatever to cut that surface fiber now this is going against the grain and I can't turn around so I'm just going to continue in this angle now see this finger here is always pointing forward three fingers around a good firm grip and these fingers can go here somewhere here just to steady the plane in the cut so we moving back along the cut and then start at the nose again work back now the one thing we didn't do is we didn't set the depth so that's the another critical step here there's a shoe that goes in here you're going to go five sixteenths deep you want it to be deep enough because if you have a panel in there and the panel shrinks you don't extreme out of the groups of five sixteenths is plenty on a six seven eight inch wide panel now this we're watching in pain but believe it or not this plane works incredibly in alt as well so the actually worked well in the hardwoods so now I've hit my shoe so I'm down to depth like there and I can smell pine this is the neat thing about ham work is the friction from the plane this isn't dust at all this is pure friction so I'm getting the essence of that pine I have to do the opposite side exactly the same way so I'm looking for my lines making sure I cut on the right face make sure start at the nose again keep moving back this time I might decide to take super long strokes from one end to the other like I'm doing now or I can take short shots and move back my left hand is pushing into this face my right hand is merely supporting the plane and steadying it to make sure I don't go off track all right we're down to depth both pieces done now I want to do these shorter pieces and you have to make sure these you can get into the vise directly so you don't need the clamp you can put these in you're gonna have to alter your depth setting because these this groove you want in the center not offset because you want to leave that 1/8 margin from the front edge so all we're going to do is we're going to move this over 1/8 of an inch it doesn't have to be exactly in the center of your rail although it could be I'm looking at that it's easier if I tell you why it's right in the center so you've got 3/16 quarter on it so I just need a taught me right can it whatever you've got see after you've hand planed it there's going to be a slight variance probably so it's in the middle grit me playing this look at this is just wonderful all the way down to the shoe keep going there and one more piece and we've got it this one's a little bit more orchid grain but just persevere if it does tear on that top as you start to tear just take a saw along this edge because you could have a knot in there just take your soul like that on the other side another stop it from tearing up to the top rim where it might be seen no more shaving that means I'm down to the shoe and I've got my pieces grooved so now I'm going to make a stub tenon in to here that will secure this position here so I think you'll see the next stage is very quick and simple we've got the main housing dado is done now we're going to put the assembly together so we can get the distance for the shoulder lines exactly where we need them for the cross rails this is where you see how the joints when they're fitted well they hold nicely so these cross rails need to be the distance in between plus the depth of the groove here so you can go slightly shy of the depth these are 5/16 so what we need to do is add 5/16 on either side and we can do that by simply measuring 5/16 from here to here and then we can add 5/16 on this side like that that will give me my overall so that's going to be a shoulder cut which will use the knife wall for again and then while we've got this together I can take my knife go right inside this inside corner here and get the shoulder lines so that they're perfect in line with this distance between these two points here so first I'm going to cut it to length so we're using the knife wall again here and across the top the edge there then transfer to the other side this into the knife Nick and then slide my square up to it gently with the first pass then more heavily now here's something that because this will not keeping this piece I'm going to just deepen that knife wall a little bit with my chisel a wide chisel here just onto the surface just rock it back and forth like that that gives me a deeper shoulder line now you can take this put it in the vise at an angle like this like which is very common this is what I do mostly and then cross cut or you could use a bench hook I've got a bench hook that I use fairly frequently people like the bench hook this works well that's one I can mark my other piece from this one because there are going to be the same so I'll get my overall end you can hear that two knife click into the groove sometimes I'll show you all this like here you'll hear it listen can hear over the top of that guides me it sound as much as touch and feel so again just deepen that knife wall so you have a recess for your saw to slide into flick the pieces away this time I'll cut it in the vise just to show you what I meant so just gone past the end of my vise across the top here very solid in the vise really listen to the sound my two pieces cut to learn now I'm going to take this shoulder line that I use the knife to mark there click slide up make sure it's square light pass and then more heavily like that slide the square up to the point flip the square over so you're registering against the same edge every time then back here listen very lightly and now I've done a couple of passes I can go as heavily as I like now and really deepen that knife wall another thing that I do I'll show you here is I I make sure that I compensate for the bevel of the knife because this is a bevel on on both sides of the knife i angle my knife slightly in and compensate for that bevel so the actual bevel is perpendicular to the piece of wood so that gives me a square shoulder flip over into my little knife that little knife neck there lightly lightly and then as heavy as I like it will not move now see how my hand clasp here I've got these two fingers here are opposing my thumb and the two fingers on top of pressing down so they're giving this square all the support it needs to stay in place lots of compression and got my shoulder together define all my shoulders I still have to use put my gaze lines on here so I know what depth what line I have to cut to please they do all of my shoulders at once and usually do all of my cuts one after the other so that I have adjusted my body to the cut so here I'm going to set a mortise gage so I'm going to actually set it to the groove because this mortar this tenon is actually going to go into the groove on my side pieces like this so I'm going to line these pins up with the groove itself this is an old sabe Martis gage I really like the combination gays it has two pins this side and one pin that side so I can use it for single pin audible pin use set this you'd be better going into the vise it'll save you your fingernails and just run this gage line because this is so short you don't really need to go on this edge but if you want to you can make sure you gauge registers against the same face now I'm going to place the soil right up against that knife while I keep my finger in place against the side of the saw till I've got in a little way down to my gauge line and here finger against the side of the saw same on this side this is what we call a stub tenon really the short version now this next bit you can do one of two ways you can saw down the line here this is fairly straight grain so I can split as well which is what I want to show you two so I go right onto that gauge line and split and split one thing I like to do is to smooth off any filter any fibers from the cut trim the inside corner a little bit I think the split is quicker and it's on this with the beans that's shot a short section it splits much much to the line now if this grain was wiry I'd saw it if it had a lot if it had nuts in there that won't split exactly as I want them to I'll usually just go in with a sawn saw those cheeks to the tenon the saw will guarantee where as a split on uneven grain doesn't work too well

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 135,494

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Id: 26yCz9TOTNA

Length: 33min 9sec (1989 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 02 2014