Building a Wallclock - Episode 1 - | Paul Sellers

I'm going to be starting a new video series that you'll be able to access and what we want to do is start off with different projects the first project is going to be a wall clock and I was just looking through my journal here looking at some of the clocks I've made through the years and I found one that I think will really be a good one to make it's this one here it's very similar to this it won't be exactly the same but you can see it's a you know basic wall clock we'll be buying up a clock movement it'll fit inside the face and inside the frame and and I think you'll enjoy making this we're going to do raised panel in here with a number 4 plane we'll be trying to keep the tools very simple and the method is very simple to start with but you'll be doing a stub mortise you'll be doing grooves you'll be doing stopped housing dedos will be rounding over with a hand planer number 4 hand play and I want to show how versatile these tools are for you to get started with you woodworking so the first thing we've got to do I'm going to make a list a cut list here and I'm going to go off to my local lumberyard wood yard to go and pick my wood and and I'll see you at the wood yard I'm looking for some wood for my couple of projects really and I usually try and pick up a few boards of pine because it's one of my favorite woods and this is redwood this is a really nice European redwood it's beautiful pine it's much harder than the eastern white pine that you get from North America of course I like the eastern white pine because it's so easy to work these nuts here are kind of difficult they're not easy to plane they're dead nice well look at this one underneath here if you do have the opportunity as I do here with this company I've dealt with them for five years and they're willing to let me pick through the material I always make sure I leave the racks tidy and this is a nice clear board this is this is I'm going to cut the sides of a clock out of this and I'm going to cut parts for a box out of this so I'm going to take this board this will make two clocks so we're going to be doing that with this piece so that's my choice here while I'm here just for account economics I'll look through for maybe a couple more boards but I'm looking for specific things I'm looking for certain types of nuts not necessarily not free this has lots of nuts this side it has a couple where these here disappear on this side so but I might like this on a panel or something like that so I think I'm going to take that one there's another nice board behind this one this is a nice board I'm looking for flatness I know this is dry well because they're using kiln-dried stock eye noise to the right size this would be another board so I'll take I'll take those three boards with me today and I'll see you in the woodshop well that's how I got my word now this is always a nice part I think because my wood is plain to size but I still have to surface play in it there's no point playing in the whole length of the board at this point I want to plane out the planer marks left by the machine so first of all I've got my cutting list here so I'm going to start cross-cutting my boards to learn from working out exactly what I can get I got a 1 by 8 and this one's 8 feet long so I've got more than I need and the two longest pieces are my side pieces I've checked the ends there's no splits in the end so I'm going to go 18 and a half because my sides are 17 and a half I'm going 18 in half so I'm burning that first inch and I can get two sides from this one piece so first of all I'm going to create a knife wall this is something that I I guess I coined the phrase knife war years ago because I'm creating a cross grain cut here which severs these long cells and fibers bit like cross cutting rope along its length so I'm going for the first pass here I'm going to use this edge because I use the stock against this edge I'm going to use this edge continually through this knife wall I go right onto this edge here and flip over see I flipped over this is just in case the board is out of power well it could be hollow it could be anything but where this is kind of a rough cut phase at the moment so knife war very gentle cut here then a heavy pass so I go lightly with the first one then I can go as heavy as I like then right on this edge here this is just a stop tear out and now I'm going to do something else when I'm cross cutting a board this is something you probably will never have seen before what I do when I'm cross cutting the board obviously I'm going to be cutting this one tool and soon as well so I make two cuts and I just goes about the width of moussaka and I can guess that size go slightly over and it won't matter because I'm creating a knife wall now parallel to the other so that when I saw through these boards this board I won't have any tear-out on either piece into my knife neck they're right on the corner you see these combination squares as well if you go on my blog we did a whole series of articles on the tools that you might need for this I use this combination square for everything so now I'm ready to soar through here so what kind of saw would you use you can use a panel saw you could use a tenon saw fix with space this point it's up to you whether you want to clamp this to the bench top or not this is such a long piece I don't think I need to do that so I'm going right in between those two saw curves now right there well that's good when I finished sign this it's going to leave a knife wall and I'll be able to plane down exactly to that knife so you can see if you look at this side here I turn this over this is the side that I just cooked I was cutting from this side normally you get these jagged edges on here so what we're focusing now on is accuracy and the care it takes so we have no no tear out on this edge and we've still got a slight residue of the knife wall so I'm going to plane that in a minute and the same when I turn over here I've got no tear out on here either but I have a very definitive knife wall so my next pieces are going to be the top and bottom pieces so I have to cut that one one more time one more time to length so now I focus on my top and bottom pieces which are 9 and 7/8 long again it's a knife wall so 9 and 7/8 which is about 250 millimeters I can't get two pieces out of this because I think these are four and a quarter so I can't quite get two out of this look to me now I'm going to just cut this clean across and then I'll do the parallel line again and I'll go down this length of this board from now I'll go all the way down the length of the board until I get to the other end they'll have all the pieces cut for my tops sides and my rails and also my central panel a raised panel that we're going to be doing that will house the clock face it's really very quick simple and very effective and the great plus for me is I'm getting all the exercise I need the upper body exercise so right in between those knife walls now so keep supporting you would make sure it doesn't drop down because it'll just split on that side listen to the sound listen change this pitch again we've got no tear out here and no tear out on this one and so we then can use this same piece for now we can mark the length of the second one because this is my other top and now and then we're going to rip the board's down to width it's always a good idea to sharpen up before you play an end grain I've got my boards cut to length sawn and I've got the pieces ready to plane so I'm sharpening my plane ready for that it's getting the burr off I'm going to use a number four plane for everything from here because this is the kind of plane that you're likely to have for your first plane on some of our next videos we'll be showing you exactly how to sharpen these up and get them in top-notch condition and a number four plane will probably do everything you ever want to do with a smoothing plane just a plain number four Stanley or a record this was the very first plane I ever bought a stanley number four before I touch any of the wood with it I want to set it up properly I'm going to sight it first that's probably close enough for what I need quick test for shaving on the Left shaving on the right sound the same sound ready to go this pine is a lot harder than the eastern white pine as I said earlier you can see here if you can see this but there's a knife wall here that left a slight excessive wood on there and I did that on purpose I wanted to be able to plane down to that knife wall which will guarantee me being dead square same if I turn over I still have a knife wall this side so I can make sure this Engram will be dead square and a few strokes fairly high in the vise there I might want to go lower I'll get less vibration if I go lower in the vise since she's nice and tight now I can't plan all the way through because if I do this edge will fracture and break up because these fibers are unsupported so what I'm going to do is back my iron off to make sure I take a minimum cut so I'm planing here I'm down to my knife line here so I'm going to turn around I come from the other side I've kept my boards full width at the moment because I'm going to be ripping these two width but I may as well use the extra length to support my plane I'm down to the line here down to the line here got a slight belly in the middle now this is quite effortless now with the sharp plane so coming back from the other side plane on the bench like this people have criticized me through the years but I may as well mention it now my plane is put down flat on the blade the bench he's not going to damage it I don't have anything on my bench that's going to damage it if I do what convention says and late on its side I could put my we're against this and damage the edge so from here on I place it this way the reason that was put in place was because you had school children who had planes and they were on the bench and they were clunking them down on top of their chisels it was developed for schools not for craftsmen so so there I am I've got this pristine square edge now and I'm looking at the end grain and I've got some really crystal clear record here of the history of this piece of wood I can see the fast growth slow growth it may be canopy that disappeared this is relational this is me working the wood so now when I've got these plane to land I just have to rip them down to width and we're ready to start the joinery this is just a tomato can filled with with them a rolled-up rag filled with oil just makes the smoothness of the cut perfect now I'm going to run parallel lines down these boards and this will give me the top and bottom and it'll also give me my cross rails for receiving the panel so we'll be doing the running the grooves but first of all I want to rip these two width and how we do that is quite simple look at my cut list top and bottoms are four and a quarter wide so I set this a gauge here so four and a quarter which is going to be about 110 mil for you and metric now you see this gauge is one that I've converted from this gauge here this one places the line that the the point underneath the gauge so I took the pin out drilled catty-corner so that my pin goes across the corner here and then I Oval the stock because it makes it more comfortable in the hand so when I'm running this gauge along here like this I can see the gauge line and it's trailing the point the whole time it's a perfect gauge so I made this fit my hand which was something Stanley did years and then stop doing it was the most perfect gauge so I'm going along here I'm going to run my gaze line so I'm going to put this gauge aside on a quarter just check myself here that I am four and a quarter yep run my line now I'm going to look along this front edge and this front edge and try and pick my grain so I'm going to first of all I'm going to plane this edge up I've got my ends plane down until I get clear wood not worried about being square at this point check it for straightness by eyeball and along the length and that's good and then check it for square to that edge I'm slightly out of square this hide is higher than this side now people think that you're going to count the plane over that's not the case you technically you're just going to press harder on the right side than the left and you're just going to take a couple of strokes like I just did and now I'm dead square so now I can run my gauge line along here like this trailing that edge off the board and I'll do the same on the other side and this this is my offcut so I'll use this for the Crossrail on the front of the clock I'm just going to run a pencil line in here now now another method that is very common with joiners and furniture makers and I would normally do this as well is to set this square to four and a quarter and you can see this directly marked on the beam there set that to four and a quarter place it on the wood and then just pull your line this way on both sides and that works perfectly too so you have a gauge line to work to so this is my waist side so I'm going to be cutting on the waist side of this wood this time I'm not going to use a tenon so I'm going to use what we call a panel saw it's a hand saw that's slightly shorter than your typical large rip saw that you might rip through wider wider long boards with this is mine I just bought a cup of these recently on on the internet on ebay but usually pay somewhere between 10 and 15 pounds for something like this so I'm going on the waist side and I'm leaving about 1/16 of wood between me and the line between the sauna start off square cross this is the correct hand position for your size three fingers through thumb on the inside and then on this side you've got this finger pointing this gives direction to the saw and it also helps with this this lateral adjustment that you need so into the cut just start your cut as you go into the cut just start dropping your hand a little bit so your pointing nose upwards not too much last little bit I'll place this aside keep that for later and now I've got my saw line on this side still my gauge line pencil line and I've also got it on this side so now I use that to guide my plane I start here move back and forth you can see it's higher here and here you can hear it well that's important that's telling you something it's telling you it's Hollow so each stroke I take will make those two each one will be longer so it'll be to cheat and then eventually it'll go there's my full length there so now back off with my iron and then I start right in the middle here so I'm getting very little shaving and I just make those shavings longer and visually I can see the gauge line on both sides there and that is my piece of wood planed I can barely see that pencil mark on both sides here so I know I'm exactly 2 wid that's exactly what I want so I'm going to do the same now with the neck peace and then I'm going to split this board down the length and get my side pieces using exactly the same method one thing I want to do is check this four square across here and I'm really good for being square there this time so I don't have to alter anything I don't need to check down here because I'm in a plane so what I'm going to do also while I've got these together I'm going to mark these so this is going to be top left top right so when I make my clock these will come apart like this and then the pieces that I cook the top and bottom go where they go you can see how this is starting to come together one thing I've got to do now is I have to cut the other board to width here so I'm going to rip that down now so I've got my my bad spot here so I'm going to run a gage line down here again and you can see how running this guy sign is going to get rid of this ragged area which is what I was trying to avoid this is all part of just thinking ahead when you're working on your projects make sure you consider all of these little things that will make your project stand out when you're finished great now I just have to surface plain all my pieces and I can start my joinery I'm going to set my gauge to two inches because I've got top and bottom rails to cut now for the front of the clock would connect with two sides and how's the panel so I'm setting to two inches run my guides line against a straightedge make sure you have a good edge I've playing these edges so we're ready to go you can see how easily this gauge works now that I've transferred they the pin from square to angle across the corner it just flows so nicely nice sauce do not you can take this use on the solar you're playing on sides of your planes whatever watch for your gauge line here I'm still away off my gaze line so watch for it because it'll just emerge and I can see it coming in the middle take a shape in and then we'll either side and you'll end up with a dead straight edge also good practice to break the edges I'll show you that in a minute when we surface plane the boards looking for my gays I'm always constant constantly aware of accuracy how you set your plane how you use the plane whether its square all these little things this is the the art of being a craftsman is being sensitive to the different many many different aspects this is a multi-dimensional thing this is no longer flat screen flat screen two dimensions I've got my pieces cut now I just have to surface plain the six pieces and I can start doing the job you

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 173,783

Rating: 4.9455094 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, Paul Sellers (Person), hand tool woodworking, wallclock, building a clock, Wood

Id: NWwltcYSHc0

Length: 32min 50sec (1970 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 01 2014