Build a BIGGER BARTOP ARCADE - FULL LENGTH AND FREE PLANS!

hi this is Mike from rebuild stuff this video is part of a series of vil logs following the construction of a bar top arcade that uses a 28 inch screen follow along for the steps I used and see the process I take when building rather than skipping over parts the build I will be showing almost every single step like subscribe to show support for this channel all right today I'm starting a custom build for a new arcade this one's going to feature a 28 inch wide screen somebody's asked me to make one so I've had to modify the plans that you normally find on my page here this one's going to be slightly taller a little bit longer this way and each of the main pieces instead of being 55 centimeters wide they're gonna be about 70 let's see I may change some things as I go so since I don't have a full-size print out I wrote this up in AutoCAD and I've added all the different angles that I'm gonna need to do at my protractor and I'm gonna draw everything on these pieces they're pretty much the exact same as my other ones but I've made some changes just to the actual dimensions a couple here in there and I will make those available the link in the description though the screen it's going to have an opening that's going to be 61 by 34 and hiding behind it will be all the blocks that hold it in place it's just a TV screen here to here and since I don't have a fancy ring use a ruler sweet so I kind of get up too late now [Music] right yeah yeah yeah okay so I've drawn out my basic shapes here the arc I had to make do with kind of eyeballing it I think it did an okay job with that just by bending something flexible doesn't have to be a ruler it can be a thin piece of wood something that is able to hold that shape and then I'm able to trace a pretty smooth arc I'm gonna go ahead and nail these two pieces together and cut them both out at the same time so that I don't have to redraw this twice after that is finished I will add on all my dimensions to figure out where are my blocks going again according to these plants where are all these pieces going to go if you look over at this set of plants that would be these lines here that's where all of those pieces are going within I may have to remeasure things as sometimes there's a bit of human error involved but as long as they fit each other everything should be awesome alright so I have drawn all my initial spots placement or line blocks my control panel all of my stuff is going to go I didn't have any kind of full size template but I did use here it's just a big ruler protractor and another block of half-inch MDF to trace out my width half-inch MDF works pretty good so by nailing the two pieces together it's gonna enable them you have to exact pieces they're all cut out you can use a jig saw a bandsaw a scroll saw anything that'll work just see you it use what you got go nice and slow with a jig saw and you can get perfectly straight lines with minimal sanding required what you're seeing here has probably been sped up by about four times one of the main reasons I'm using a jigsaw for this is to show people that you can do this with any tool my last video I used a bandsaw for this and all my big stuff I tried to use smaller tools for this bill specifically to show people that you don't need a massive shop to do it I'm lucky enough to be a high school shop teacher I run an engineering and arcade building Club and that's where I get to do all the stuff with my students get a piece of wood grab some sandpaper wrap them together and start sanding get everything smooth now it'll make your life easier later I still have them nailed together so they're still gonna be a mirror image I took it to the big belt sander just for to make it quicker but you could still do this by hand now for ripping my paddle pieces I'm gonna be using a circular saw and I'll be using a table saw I'm going to demonstrate here that you can do it with a circular saw you just want to take it slow I'm setting up a very simple saw guide here just out of another piece of MDF set it to the width of your tool you should be able to get nice straight cuts here I'm laying out some other spots just to make sure that I do have enough material I've put it onto a crosscut sled on a table saw and I'm cutting out some of the larger pieces I can also do this with the small pieces as well you can do this all with the circular saw or jigsaw it just takes you a little bit longer [Music] I can remove my nails now and begin lay out on the other side panel I want them to be a mirror image and both physically cut out as well as where I'm going to be added all my dimensions and lines I'm going based on my plans and measuring from the other panel that I drew there's always give me a little bit of human error but if I can cut that down I'll do my best I'm using a piece of half-inch MDF to lay out these lines because that's what the things going to be made out of might as well trace it rather than trying to draw that out with a ruler when I was designing this I wrote down all these little handy measurements in my AutoCAD file that makes it way easier to figure out where these things are supposed to go I always wanted to take my time when I'm laying things out make it as best I can it'll make my life easier later and give a nicer look to the entire build I don't want anything wobbling when it's all done is sitting on a table next up I'm going to be doing is routing out a slot for the tea molding here you see a piece that is going to be my control panel it'll be a piece of tea molding on the front of this now off to router in this side panels take it nice and slow this thing is spinning really fast I'm wearing a dust mask to keep this stuff out of my face I try my best to wear these at all times and working with MDF [Music] if you're not sure what team Alden is don't worry you'll seem to install in an upcoming video in this series [Music] Here I am also rudder and out the bottom piece this will have another piece of tea molding on it as well this piece is for the top panel I have a nice angle cut but that's optional you can hide that behind other stuff if you don't have the opportunity to put an angle on it so I'm just using regular 2x4 that I got from Home Depot to create the supports for my cabinet I cut out about four feet total I'm going to be cutting these up into 3/4 by 3/4 inch strips they'll be square you could use one inch if you want a little bit extra support but so far I found that doing 3/4 has been enough once you have all your strips cut out it's time to size them to fit your arcade cabinet I usually buy my adhesive at Home Depot but sometimes you have to go to the grocery store really I recommend wood glue don't use mustard could use screws for this entire build I'm choosing to use Brad nails in glue there really isn't a huge difference as long as you attach it correctly take your time to make sure that your blocks are all lined up nice and straight along with your layout lines clean up your glue before it dries so you don't have to scrape it off again this is just the way that I choose to do my builds there are many different ways to attach your cabinet pieces together you could do the entire thing without blocking if you wanted to I forgot to press record when I attach the bottom piece but I attached it the exact same as I did this top panel right here in order to help keep it square while the glue is drying I like to put a couple of my other panels in just as placeholders until it is able to dry up at 90 degrees or square I'll usually let it dry for at least an hour before I move on to doing any more pieces well I'm waiting for that to dry I'm gonna lay out some of my other stuff in this case the upper marquee where my artwork will be shown I'm measuring a 3/4 inch border around the whole thing I'm going to cut that out with a jigsaw or whatever tool I have she wanted to get fancy you could use a router for this whole thing but I'm gonna be doing this project mostly simple tools for at least most of the steps so I use a jigsaw I can use a circular saw I can use a table saw the important thing is you take your time make your lines straight cut it out make it look good [Music] I like to try and cut oversize a little bit gives me some room to sand things down when I'm using a jigsaw compared to a table saw the cuts may not be as perfect so get that sanding block out or a file and make it nice and smooth this is just a test fit underneath you'll see where I'm gonna be putting my speakers next it's time to lay out my control panel I got a couple angles I need to cut here I give using a table saw for that you could just cut it shorter and not have any angle and nobody would really see it unless you have gaps in between your pieces I used to do a little test strip then I go back and finish it off good enough for me all right next is the control panel you can see on the left where I routed it out for my tea molding I want to make sure I don't put the angle on the wrong side now the reason that I do this angle is because when I put my screen marquee it is going to match and sit flush together you don't have to do this that's just the way that I designed it when I'm drilling holes for t-nuts I'm going to be using a 3/16 inch drill bit and a quarter inch you'll see why in just a minute I'm laying out these holes so that when I do have my bolts in they're gonna line up in the middle of where I put my blogging so I'm doing 3/8 from the edge so first my 3/16 inch hole get my t-nut ready make sure it fits and here's for the lower or front control panel exact same measurements 3/8 inch from the edge I'll be drilling the holes where I think I want them to go as long as they are even that's all you need so I used the 3/16 bit going through it kind of as a guide to make a little dent or a small hole then I get to switch over to a quarter inch because that's the diameter of the t-nut then I'm going to hammer in the t-nut from the backside when the bolt goes through the pieces and into the Tina it should hold it in place nicely this is where sometimes you might want to use a harder wood than pine now that washer is not going to be the Center for finish this is just to test my fit I'll give up 50 other control panel same steps switch my bits drill up the holes I try to use my fingers to start them together if you go straight with a drill you run a chance of cross threading let's take it slow make it work next you see me gluing some little blocks in here to hold the t-nuts in place I've had a problem where sometimes the t-nuts fall out the back so if I put a little piece of wood in there just covering the edge of the t-nut kind of like a little bit closer to it it should work and hold it in place again this is just the way that I do it I came up with this and it seems to work pretty good nobody's gonna see it from the outside anyways alright let's try it with the control panel I made the the length of control panel just a couple millimeters less than the actual width that I want make it easier to take the panel on and off it'll be maybe a millimeter on each edge next is the back door I'm gonna be cutting that big back piece into three pieces the top is probably gonna have some holes cut in for some airflow the actual back door will eventually have two big holes cut in it for some fans and the bottom will have the hinge and the electrical what I should have done was actually cut my electrical holes before gluing this permanently in that was an afterthought of mine there's different ways to hang a hinge this is the way that I do it you could stick it in there so that you can't see the hinge at all but this is way easier and since it behind the cabinet no one's gonna see it I always try to drill a pilot hole before using a screw mix the screw go in easier and less chance of splitting the wood I could have used slightly shorter screws they poke through a little bit but I'm not too worried about that next it's time to move on to how I'm gonna attach the monitor some people just use Plexiglas but the monitor behind it held up by the visa mount holes I'm not going to do that I'm gonna create this big marquee to hold my whole thing together I just like the way it's it looks I think it's pretty solid and I think it's pretty easy to do so I'm taking this big piece I'm gonna lay out where the opening of the screen is gonna be it should be able to hide the bezel and the monitor or screen itself I'll be cutting this up with either a jigsaw a circular saw or a table saw in my case I'm going to start with the table saw and then finish it with the jigsaw I learned this trick a few years ago I've never had any issues with safety for it but you should still be careful if you're doing this by yourself not a bad idea to have a spotter finish it up with the jigsaw and then I'll file it smooth for an extra touch you could take a champ for a bit with a router running around the inside to get a nice beveled edge on the inside of this hole I'd do that in a later build that you can see coming up in a couple months this is kind of a raw a way to do it I just put the screen underneath grab my pencil and traced out the shape for where I'm going to be putting my supports so using the router I'm gonna route out some slots for the TV to fit into I don't have to do this at all if I don't want to but this just gives it a nice touch and this is my personal preference with that first little slot eyeballed I'm using that as a gauge to figure out how far away my router needs to be from my router guide this is just any piece of straight wood that it can run against and get you a nice slot that you're going for I set the depth to about half the thickness of the MDF it's okay if you cut a little bit wide because that leaves a nice little bit of wiggle room for the TV doing the same thing to the other side to the top and then I'm going to be doing a custom piece for the bottom [Music] go nice and slow so that you have full control over what you're doing so for the bottom I just traced out the bottom of the TV onto a little piece of scrap I'm gonna cut that out on the bandsaw you can use a jigsaw or any tool you have if you're gonna choose this method it doesn't have to be perfect again I like to have a little bit of wiggle room like an spacers or just make sure it's clamped in place nicely after I've got my main spot here I'm just gonna get rid of the excess just eyeballed it again if you're using MDF make sure you're wearing some sort of dust protection to keep this stuff out of your lungs fits nicely next thing on the back is I'm gonna be doing my custom clamping system that has worked for me a few times this involves doing a couple of these nice strips here making some slots for my tea nuts to go behind and then I'm gonna create some wood blocks that are gonna hold everything together again this is just the way I do it make sure you're using glue that is gonna be strong enough for this again this is my custom mixture you can get this at most grocery stores [Music] these are my detailed blueprints I spent hours and hours on those so just using some again two by fours or whatever blocks you've got I'm gonna be using these hold the TV in place cut them up with whatever tools you need this bandsaw has seen better days it doesn't cut perfectly straight it always ends up cutting on a bit of an angle I think I need to do some fixing up with that watch your fingers use a push stick when necessary so now with all these pieces together this should start to make a little bit of sense as to what I'm doing this will all be removable so I can take the TV on and off if needed it will probably never get taken off but I like to build all of my projects in a way that can be taken apart and that changes or upgrades and stuff like that [Music] I'm going to do a quick test fit to see if I need to make any changes before mounting this fits nicely so I can move on to the next step so the next thing I can do is lay out my mounting holes again this is all modular I can take this whole piece on and off that's my plan so I'm gonna use T nuts again to hold it together onto the arcade cabinet I initially drilled with my smaller drill but I think it was the 3/16 but then I'm actually gonna drill them a little bit larger so I have a little bit of wiggle room makes it easier to install so it doesn't have to be a perfect fit gonna put the bolts on you've seen this method in the other videos where I drill my holes and then I just use those holes as a guide to drill the next ones I wonder if I should invest in some smaller hammers to fit in small places these little blocks when nailed and glued in will prevent the t-nuts from accidentally falling out if there's really any issue with the t-nut in the future you can just take a chisel and grind or cut them off you need to cut a special angled piece I have a little visitor circling and watching my every move so I need to be careful here you don't have to cut angles on all your stuff you're not going to see this on the back anyways but I like to do these nice little finishing touches any little gaps that you see will be covered with wood fill again use your custom adhesive to hold things together and nail it in this piece is the speaker mount under artwork mark key piece thing basically these are where the speakers are going to be mounted underneath the artwork marquee two holes to hold it together and what do you think I'm gonna use to hold it on to the arcade probably t-nuts I'm doing these test fits also with finishing washers on there that's how it will look when it's all done the whole thing is really starting to come together now I'm very happy with the progress of this project this piece is going to get glued permanently to that last one they can come on and off together glue and Brad nails that in just for a nice flush fit what do you want to hold my back door shut I'm gonna be using magnets I picked these up at Home Depot for a couple bucks they're super simple and easy to use I like to drill pilot holes any time I have to use screws to prevent splitting the wood your pilot hole should be smaller than the drill that you're using using the supplied screws I'm gonna be attaching this metal piece to the back door I want to make sure that whatever screw I'm using is not longer than the width of the material does that makes sense I don't want it sticking out in the back get in the shape and just beat the devil out of it now I'm gonna use wood filler to fill in all the little spots that I might want to blend together or fill in the little Brad nail holes this is a little bit time-consuming so I'm gonna be skipping most of it next up is the button holes and the hole for the joystick to stick out this paper template I originally used on my very first arcade video I found that on Instructables and I know it's circulating the internet layout your control panel the way that you want not necessarily the way that I do it I always try to do a little Center punching before drilling just allows me to be a bit more accurate laying out the spots for the front control panel buttons that is on a separate piece again that's my design not necessarily the way you have to do it the pilot holes help guide my Forstner bit in when I do my big drill again this is optional but this is just the way that I do think makes it easier for me and that's the way you should do it always work whatever these means for you handled your joystick super carefully or not bought these on eBay and I'm gonna be mounting them with four bolts and nylock nuts take your time when laying this out so that you don't have crooked joysticks I'm gonna be countersinking these so that the flat head bolt is able to sit flush with the top of control panel you shouldn't really feel it when you're playing games there are many other methods for doing this but again I'm just doing it the way that works for me I'll be countersinking those a little bit more to fine-tune their fit but this is fine for now so before I can paint the cabinet I need to make sure everything has been smoothed out all scratches have been filled and I've sanded everything beautifully I'm gonna skip most of that here I'm drilling a hole to set up a cam lock that way if I wanted to actually put a lock on the back of the arcade I can I start by drilling a larger hole and then I do the smaller hole for the actual shaft with a cam lock to fit in for this one I'm just using spray paint I'm gonna go through about two to three cans to do this I'm gonna try to do a couple coats and I'm gonna be showing you the entire time of me painting fast motion of course but I'm not skipping a single spray now you could also use roller paint or you know you go buy a gallon of it and then roll it on that will give you a different texture really the choice is up to you I thought I'd save a little bit of money from this this has a paint and primer kind of in one it works well for wood it looked great on this cabinet I didn't have any issues with any of the paint scratching off after about 20 to 30 minutes I usually do a second coat and I think I do a total of three coats here so before I assemble the actual cabinet with the electronics inside I want to test it make sure everything works my plan here with this was actually to take these speakers out of the TV and remount them in the arcade cabinet in a slightly different spot I didn't really need to do this but I thought this would be a nice touch I would probably do it differently in the future but I'm still going to show you how I did it so I pulled apart the back of the TV kept all the little screws in a little baggie so that I wouldn't lose them and I wanted to figure out how hard this was act can actually be to accomplish it was actually pretty easy but a little bit time-consuming so open it up seems pretty simple the speaker's came out very easily and it's all held in there to a little log board the little snap connector so I figured if I just cut the wires spliced in some new ones using some butt connectors and some Bulleit butt connectors some wire I could extend this and stick these speakers anywhere I wanted in the cabinet so I grabbed my strippers strip the wire and I'm going to be crimping them off I could also solder the wires but I wanted to show this way instead I believe I'm putting on roughly 60 centimeter extension to this so I can stick them in the cabinet underneath the artwork Marquis so by putting the bullet connectors on I'm able to take the wires on and off from the speaker's fairly quickly and easily in case I need to take the arcade apart for maintenance it's nice I'm gonna crimp them on there there's different methods different tools for this but this worked just make sure to test your crimp so that they're actually attached so I want to clean up these wires make them look a little bit nicer so I'm just gonna pull them into straight lines wrap some electrical tape around it call it a day nobody's really gonna see this when it's all done there that just cleans it up a little bit alright let's plug it back in test it and see if the speaker's actually still work uh-oh I've got a solution for that and drill a hole in the back the TV pop those wires through reconnect it and it shouldn't cause any issues I'm taping down the wires just in case somebody Yanks on it it's not gonna yank the connector out when this was all done I only had 30 extra screws no problem so no problem the speakers work great now it's time to figure out the rest all right onto the tea molding I got this from tea molding calm the price is decent you fire up by the foot would have believed me a 20-foot minimum you don't necessarily need these tools to do this but I found this has worked really well for going around a corner you want to cut a little notch out and that way your tea moldings is able to bend easier anytime there's a curve this is a good idea to do as I'm doing this I'm going back over it looking for bumps or anywhere that I might have missed and we'll make sure it's nice and tight you can use an exacto blade instead of those side cutters if you want use whatever you have now those aren't Chipmunks in the background those are my students they're for the arcade club at lunchtime now normally I don't need to actually write down where my cut is but I thought that'd be a good visual reminder for the video in the future I probably wouldn't do such a sharp little turn there I would keep it a smooth transition might cut a little bit nicer either way I think it turned out great line it up as best you can I set it up so that this cut would be on the bottom and you wouldn't really see it anyways flip it over do the other side and give it a little flip thanks Sean if you are using artwork for your arcade you probably want to put it on before the tea molding that way any excess you can just hide underneath it and then cut it off with an exacto blade this is where I should have used an exacto blade probably got a nicer cut now I'm gonna be adding tea molding to the control panel as well as well as the very bottom piece they're gonna be the same length so I'm actually just gonna cut it out here once measure it and do that same cut for the bottom watch out for any sharp objects you could cut yourself careful with those knives all right let's assemble to see how it kind of looks oh I love that paint job I find the green a black we're just a really nice color scheme to work with so I did a very simple job for these speakers I think I would have changed it if I did in the future I pretty much just added one hole for the sound to come through and I kind of carved a little funnel in with a chisel so the rest of the speaker wouldn't be vibrating against the panel in hindsight this maybe wasn't the best idea but it worked it's functional and it sounds really really good I like this style of hat buttons they're easy to swap up micro switches and easy to mount to your control panel these things basically just snap in and out so if you break one you can just pop it out and replace it I think this is a very simple system but button choice is really a personal preference so I personally start by putting all the buttons in first and loosely tightening the nuts that hold it together for this build you can see that there's just a lone button in the middle that one is gonna act as a hot key button in Rico box that allows me to do certain menu or little shortcuts things like exiting the game saving my States I could even rewind games that's all built in they're very easy to use that is only connected to the first player the second player hotkey is gonna be hidden inside the cabinet and really is only used for when I'm configuring the controls in the first place I'm using usb encoders for this build because of their simplicity and ease of use you plug the wires that come with it into your buttons and your joystick directly into the USB encoder and then a USB cable runs from there into whatever you're plugging it into whether it's a Raspberry Pi a PC you could be using it for a small fight stick anything you want these things actually will work with some consoles as well as the Raspberry Pi and PC I'm going to be making a small little map or kind of a plan to figure out where I want to stick all the all of these and I'm gonna try to make sure that player 1 and player 2 are set up the exact same binary so low zero zero zero zero one zero one zero zero zero usually these just snap right on there pretty simple and easy to use if you put one on the wrong place sometimes they can actually be a little bit tricky if you look carefully at the tab coming out of the micro switch there's a small hole that hole lines up with a little tab that kind of grabs it on the end of that a quick connector so they're a little bit tricky to get off so make sure you get it right the first time in most kits they will come with maybe one or two extra wires in case but don't count on that with your build you can take the micro switches off the buttons if you choose and just wire them up like that and then snap them in it's a really personal preference sometimes it's tricky to get your fingers into those small places sometimes things come apart I was lucky enough that I could just pop this one back in in the past I've had to rewire and solder things and basically run completely new sets of hires I was lucky here I can just snap it back in place and it worked these things aren't super expensive hence the build quality so you can see that I have some basic labels inside that's just to help me remember if you wanted to you could wrap a piece of tape around each wire and label it so that it's easier for you but I've done so many of these and I really don't need to do that anymore but if it helps you do it normally another thing I'd probably do is try to find a space where I could you know glue down or screw the USB encoder directly to the cabinet the wires just weren't long enough for this build so I had to let it float freely but it's not gonna be a problem because it's out of the way of anything getting damaged to hold everything together with my joysticks I'm using the number 10 by 24 unc machine bolts and nylock nuts the nylock nuts have a little plastic retainer inside that helps it stay tight and doesn't loosen well too much over time I wanted to get nice and flush so if you remember in a previous video I countersunk those holes just kind of eyeballed it make it look nice there's many other ways to do this this is just the way that I did it for this build yeah those little snap connectors are nice and easy just make sure you have your joystick facing the correct way whether it's up-down left-right backwards forwards mirrored z' just do it the right way sometimes you won't know until you plug it into the Raspberry Pi and actually check it and that you may have to swap wires or flip the thing upside down the wiring for an arcade is actually really simple if you follow these kind of videos if you're doing something like a Pandora Box you may need a jam a harness or something like that but really you just got to find out a way that works there are so many tutorials online that show you how to do this this is just the way that I do it now there's a couple ways that you can attach a ball top if you want you can use Loctite or thread Locker you put that on to the threads screw your two pieces together and they should hold tight in this case I'm just quickly tightening it with a locking pliers and tighten it with my uh with my hands I did this just because I wasn't sure if I was gonna be making a change later so now on to a quick test fit be careful not to squish your wires when you're putting it all together this is why sometimes it's a good idea to securely attach your USB encoder directly to maybe your control panel the underside things like that so I'm just doing a quick test I've put in my finishing washers and screwing in those pieces time to attach the screen again be careful not to squish your wires you'll remember this from the previous video that was video number three how I made this little clamping system thing but it works this is all made out of scrap pieces of 2x4 very simple easy to use and you can do it with just about any main hand tools at home you can use a jigsaw or just a manual handsaw or back saw I guess you'd call it you look carefully at the bottom right of the screen there was a small hole underneath it that was to allow a remote control for the TV to access the infrared sensor that he's behind it it's not too obvious you don't see it that well now while I am bolting it in now I will be cutting the plexiglass cover for it to eventually but you just don't see that yet again I just want to get it tested make sure that the gameplay is working so I'm using a Raspberry Pi 3 for this build you could use a PC you could be using an au droid xu4 there's quite a number of different ways to do this I chose a Raspberry Pi 3 because at the time this was pretty awesome for the price and it's gonna work these are little plastic standoffs that I'm gonna use to mount the ply to the cabinet you're gonna see that next there's an IEC power socket which I'm going to show how to wire and that switch is going to be used to control the backlighting and then of course a power bar to power everything so here's a heatsink where are you supposed to put it that's much better [Applause] and a second one so I want to put these in here these supply two five six screws don't fit so I need to find a solution drill a bigger hole just be careful not to destroy your boring don't drill through your hands that's a stupid thing so next I drill a pilot hole before I put the screws into the cabinet I'm gonna make sure I don't go too deep so I don't go through the bottom of the cabinet so these are just small screws that came with the kit plug in my USB encoders and I've left plenty of room to add just about anything HDMI for the TV get everything powered up and we're gonna do a quick test let's see if it works success so I need a keyboard initially to get set up and navigate through the menu so I can get to the controller settings first thing it prompts me to do is hold down a button to identify which player I'm gonna be configuring follow the prompts press the buttons as needed buttons that are not being used you just hold down any random button until it skips over lastly my hotkey press ok and move on to player 2 you can go and configure other inputs afterwards if you want if you want to assign player 1 or player 2 or switch them back and forth all in the menu so same deal with player to make sure inputs match player 1 so that lets say your a button doesn't become a B button on the other side you want them to be a mirror image of each other a player 2 hotkeys on the inside click and save let's test some games now so I'm going to start with just some old classics some games that only use your joystick and two buttons things seem to be working let's move on to something that has more buttons so six buttons here is Street Fighter 2 quick Hadouken x' that works all right take a break from that I'm gonna install the speakers because I want to hear the audio normally I'd be bolting or screwing down my speakers but in this case because of their shape I'm just gonna be putting some hot glue on they're easy to take off if I need it but still strong enough to hold it so it does not come apart I probably would have changed up the way I did this if I was to redo this specific project again I probably would have got a new glue gun as well this thing was not the best so do a quick test fit and it's on to do some gameplay testing so this is probably one of my classic favorite games so I'll just do a quick test here I'm not a speed runner but I do still enjoy and love this game a little bit tricky to do with a joystick compared to an analog stick but I always enjoy the challenge of doing that the first time I ever actually beaten escape was probably on an emulator on my macbook back in college using just a keyboard [Music] alright let's test some other games again stuff that I love playing here is just the fighter games you're using all six buttons for these so they're each gonna get a quick click test each of the micro switches make sure I've wired them correctly nothing is wrong and then move on to something else now I find the best way to really test these arcades is to let some of the arcade club students or just some of my other students test it out if it can handle the abuse of teenagers that means your arcade is probably built well enough so even though the arcade works there's still a couple things I want to add to it one of them is cooling because the arcade is pretty much fully enclosed it needs some way for air to get in and cool down the electronic components that are inside in this diagram it gives you some suggestions of how to set it up if you're using a fully enclosed cabinet I'm gonna do something similar to this and just mount them to the back door to allow for air to come in and out and cool down mostly the screen that's the one that's gonna need it the most the actual Raspberry Pi will need a little bit of cooling but it's not going to overheat too badly so here I'm just doing some quick math I gotta set it up and cut some round holes in the back of the door I'm gonna be using a jigsaw ideally I should have been using a hole saw for this but I didn't own one at the time these this is hot again show it with the tools that you have I was in a bit of a rush I probably should have gone a little bit slower when cutting so my cuts weren't as smooth as they could be but it is gonna be at the back of the unit you're not really gonna see it next up is a hole for an IEC power switch I probably should have done this before painting but I forgot but it fits nobody's gonna be able to tell the difference anyways this is gonna be supplying power to everything back to the fans this is just mounting them I probably should have used some longer screws to do so but it works it's not gonna come apart so these are just wired in via USB and they have a small little power controller to change the speed of the fans I'm probably just gonna leave it on high next up this is showing how to actually wire the IEC power socket or switch whatever you want to call it it has a 10 amp fuse which should be enough to handle just about everything I'm using 16 gauge wire for this and I should have used some fully insulated quick connects but these will do just fine for now I'm gonna wrap them up in electrical tape afterwards so you're not really going to notice I used a diagram that I found on Instructables to do this and I will show a picture of that later before you cut your actual power bar make sure it actually works test it out so you're not wasting all your time strip those just enough so that you can fit the quick connects over top I had to do a little trim there crimp them on and let's start attaching it to the actual power socket now the first time I went to go and test this I actually forgot to put the fuse in it took me a while to figure out what I had done wrong alright pause the video if you need to for this part so as I said earlier I just dropped some electrical tape to it just to prevent any connections from touching each other that shouldn't we don't want a short-circuit anything this is good enough it will work that ideally you should use fully insulated connectors a quick trip to Home Depot these are what I should have used these are female quick connectors and they're fully insulated but my way will work as well okay time to wire up these LEDs I have a power brick and I have a switch and I want to put them all together to make it work first thing is to figure out the polarity which wires go where switch them around I'm not really worried about getting zapped because this is fairly low power that works perfectly and even though I test that connector I decided to just chop it off and splice it into the wires that's a little bit easier I'm gonna connect these together using again little quick connectors crimp them together this is the way I used to do it when I used to wire car stereos and the other way to do this is just solder it and wrap it with heat shrink so for wiring up the switch itself I just refer to the diagram that came with it I just have to attach it to be correct tabs that are coming out pretty easy and I'll do that with the female quick connectors as well now I didn't really like these little adapters to attach my LEDs to the wires they were cheap I thought they were a good deal when I got them but clearly I should have spent some more money on it so we'll just quickly adding my female quick connects to there and these will slide right into the back of the power switch plug in a power brick there's my diagram and let's plug them into the right way until they work perfect oh wait almost so these are the problem with that little adapter they are kind of finicky I find they don't really grip the LED strip as well as I like but they do work once you get them into the right place just don't jiggle them around yeah adhesive that came with my LED strips was not the greatest I ended up having to glue gun these in there but it is inside the cabinet nobody's gonna see it and it does function [Music] - now wanna here's the one who said it so the glue gun is not the prettiest but it's gonna be hidden behind everything ideally I'd love to have just you know a single bar of Lights that would just pop right in without having to do all this work but for the price this is just fine I need to make a hole for the switch for the back of the cabinet I'm going to using two different size Forstner bits you don't have to use Fortuner so you could use a spade bit or just have one big one in the back it's up to you I'm just gonna pop those together nice and quick it works pop on the nut tighten it up really awkwardly with these terrible needlenose pliers does it work I see lights flashing fantastic all right now to actually get this whole thing wired together correctly I'm gonna put the power bar that has been attached to my IEC socket in there I could use screws bolts or in my case hot glue gun and I'm gonna be using these little cable tie mounts to organize all the wires and the mess that's gonna be inside here now since I took off the screen it makes it a lot easier to do all this work this is why I like to build my stuff modular I like to be able to take things apart and make changes if I need to it could probably look nicer and cleaner if I didn't have all these nuts and bolts sticking out everywhere but this is just my style build it to suit your own now I know that there are special tools to cut Plexiglas or plastic or whatever it is you got however I didn't feel like buying them and I just use what I had on hand I was really careful and slow when using the circular saw and it worked pretty good you can't really tell a difference for this project these again bolt on and off it's gonna line up with the same holes that are on that front screen piece maybe for another project I'd like to actually have it slide in and not be permanently attached like that that way you can take it in and out easy to clean but for this project I was under a bit of a time crunch and I did make it work I also cut a piece for the artwork Marquis as well and just hot glue gun that in it holds it in place pretty nicely and I know it's gonna work just fine I will be changing this up for a future project but it works so yeah extra fuses I didn't have any of those when I first wired this up so I think I had to wait two days and did some shopping to go get it definitely cheaper to buy them online than have a store alright let's see if it works the light has turned on the system has booted up fantastic the lights I may not always want to have them on and off so that's why these switches in there you don't always want to be blinded so here's a quick look inside the working cabinet I've got all my power I have the Raspberry Pi 3 with the USB encoders plugged in as well as the cooling fan and onto some artwork I designed it in Photoshop just with some quick images and borrowed a printer to print them on this one it cost me about 10 dollars to print the banner a nice full color and I'm quite happy with that to hold this in temporarily I'm just gonna be using tape probably not the best way but I was planning on switching out the banner later so I wasn't too worried about a permanent solution I should have used clear tape instead of the masking tape the masking tape ended up creating a bit of a shadow from the LEDs behind it so let's do a quick test fit and see how it all looks together I really like this color scheme with the black and green I think that looks really nice [Music] so I thought I needed some more lights so I pulled off another basically two layers and I'm gonna attach those to the part that holds the speakers I'm gonna add some bullet connectors in there so I can take it apart and put it back together again I like to do things modular and this worked well for me again the adhesive didn't stick very well so I needed to use the hot glue gun to hold it onto my piece give it a little white before reapplying the artwork and it should work so this one I use clear tape as far as I know it's never come off reattach the speakers get them working I put my DIY labels on there and they pretty much work three times the lighting put the bolts in and permanently attached everything together I think this was the last time that I actually took it apart so this project is pretty much done I really enjoyed working on this this was a fun way to start and actually you make a design completely from scratch i base some of the shape off my previous builds but it works I'm happy with it I really like playing on the larger screen you can fit two people way more comfortably beside each other to play multiplayer games like this I do wish that I'd made the control panel a little bit deeper so that I could fit all the buttons on the top but for the most part I think it still looks very clean so let's take a look at the inside of the cabinet so player one hotkey that matches here and the player 2 hotkey if you remember from the previous videos is on the inside of the cabinet because I only use it for a configuration that's just the way Rico box works so there's a little switch for the LED lighting there's a switch for all the power that's an IEC c14 if you're hunting for those on Amazon or Ebay or wherever I'm using intake and exhaust fans to cool and circulate the air through the unit it has a little speed controller from I think there's three speed settings my power bar with only three things plugged in there should be power going to the lights to the Raspberry Pi and to the TV screen and the speakers are powered directly from the screen itself so raspberry pi 3 not too bad I moved on to using an old roid xu4 for another build but this still plays just about any retro game you could need speakers are up there and hidden easy to access and my next arcade project video will be a full-sized cabinet I've already built it I just need to edit the videos so please stay tuned for that thank you again for watching these videos there were a lot of fun to edit and actually make the whole project itself I'm happy that it's finally done I will probably make a couple videos in the future for how to actually program the Raspberry Pi or Oldroyd or whatever you're using it's extremely easy check out Rico box anyways the plan links are in the description please send me messages like share subscribe all that good stuff bye [Music]

Channel: We Build Stuff

Views: 435,256

Keywords: odroid xu4, raspberry pi, bartop arcade, webuildstuff, michael holbrook, teacher, free arcade plans, bartop, youtube, bigger bartop, big screen, arcade, diy, we build stuff, adst, pi, recalbox, retropie, build, mame, how to, arcade cabinet, cabinet design, woodwork, awesome, custom, high school, shop class, seaquam, build it yours, do it yourself, beard, bearded, build log, programming, recal box

Id: isiLRtJlUso

Length: 65min 4sec (3904 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 25 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/WeBuildStuffYoutube]

I teach and build arcades with students as part of an arcade building club. I started making videos to help them through steps for when I was busy with another student. I realy enjoy the process and I'm excited to build some fancier ones with artwork in the future. This video shows every single step I use when building for the complete beginner and shows lots of different ways to build whether you have a big shop or just a few handheld power tools like a jigsaw, router, and drill!

I hope this is helpful for anyone looking to build one of these!

-Mike (We Build Stuff)

[u/EargasmicGiant]

I wanna take that class