Blown Up Toyota Tundra 5.7L 3UR-FE V8 Engine Teardown. Poor Maintenance or Bad Luck?

it doesn't really matter how reliable an engine seems to be or how many people think it's bulletproof and you can't kill them well have you met the general public and I'm not saying that everyone is terrible on cars most people are actually pretty good about it but the ones that aren't they break Toyota five sevens I've got another one I I the first one I thought was just a fluke there's a second one here and I'm actually kind of excited to see what went wrong on this one I saw what happened on the last one if you haven't seen that video you should watch it but this is another unknown question mark and there's no real Clues at all I just know that it's a core return and we're going to find some broken stuff Toyota's 5.7 liter I force V8 is the 3u rfe this engine came out in 2007 in the tundra and the Sequoia it makes 385 horsepower which at the time was pretty crazy out of a 5.7 liter truck that runs on 87 octane there's only a few things that I could say bad about these engines number one is they are very thirsty not very good on gas and it's probably why they replaced this engine with a twin turbo V6 let's just hope that's as reliable the only other thing I gotta say bad about this engine is the fact that you can't get it in a current generation 4Runner I'd own one if you could well let's turn this over and see what we've got okay now it still has plugs in it so it's going to have compression seems to feel okay I don't hear anything knocking now we'll get the coils out and pull the plugs [Music] when I pull the spark plugs out of the right cylinder head I thought man this thing's been chewing on some oil smells like old fuel but nothing terrible and then the very first plug on the driver's side we got some malice in the combustion Palace folks that's pretty mangled that's pretty bad strap is lower than the electrode it doesn't work good like that the rest of them look okay it's just just that one next we're going to pull the intake manifold and to do that first we're going to start by pulling this hose clamp off this whole little wiggle and then you'll want to take this clamp off too and then you simply just lift the manifold off the passenger Bank looks okay it's just really dirty on the driver's side looks okay and then oh [Music] well the valve is not valving correctly it looks like one of those intake valves is crammed sideways and jammed into the port and that is that is bad now we're going to start pulling the passenger side valve cover and if I remember correctly I have to pull the variable valve timing solenoids out oh there's a little dowel here Cabbage Patch or something I don't know I think this screams lack of oil changes because there's a lot of oil deposits a lot of varnish it's like murdering the light coming out of my flashlight here but I don't see anything too terrible yet it's just really dirty chains still present everything looks okay now on to the driver's or left side similar story on this side lots and lots of oil deposits probably one of the dirtier oh there's a problem so so come here oh there's a valve spring you're not supposed to be able to do that oh oh there's some pieces in here there's a keeper I can't I can't keep the keeper oh yep I got it so it's got a complete intake valve delete not a partial it's a full the rock is just kind of jamming out down here get out of there I'll get you here is what I was able to fish out and there's a broken vowel spring it's supposed to be about that big but instead it was about this big which let the valve fall and well the rest is history there's one the keepers and the retainer and The Rocker are hanging out in the head so here you can see the missing rocker and the valve delete and down here kind of see the retainers hanging out somewhere down in there between those two valves and The Rocker is hanging out down there somewhere we'll get those fished out as we get this engine apart now I'm going to take a minute and remove some of the stuff on the outside of the engine the exhaust manifold the motor mount and bracket and some of this secondary air stuff [Music] now we're going to start peeling some of the stuff off the front of this engine so we get the timing cover off uh we can get the water pump off that water pump looks absolutely perfect look how clean that is you could reuse this and it's some kind of interesting water passages Toyota just has a thing for that now we actually are going to keep that piece those get broken when they get hit in the front let's get this crank pulley off well that's a lot easier than using a puller foreign the next thing we're going to do is remove the oil filter housing and the oil cooler and I'm going to show you something that I really don't like when manufacturers do so you can see it's bolted on here there's a stud here stud here and a bolt here now this bolt here you can't access it normally unless you remove the sending unit this could have been any other angle and not block that bolt I just yeah so we're just going to do the right thing and use a wrench on it and say screw it we're not taking that off ha okay let's get the rest of these bolts out also surprised that that didn't make a mess now I'm going to get this crossover pipe out of the way to get this tensioner off there's an allen bolt in the center and it's also filled with a bunch of junk so we're gonna make sure we get all that stuff out of there so we reduce the chances of stripping this out because it's not very deep it's pretty shallow let's see how this goes the safest way to do this is to use an impact and a worn out socket and then just uh you know make it one piece that didn't work so we're going to move on to plan B which is more Force foreign usually works now I can't get my socket back now I'm just going to remove as many 12 millimeter headed bolts as I can and then I'll go up in size to 14 and eventually this cover will be off all right I think it's time to graduate to the 14 millimeter headed bolts yeah yeah and these are just access plugs we don't need to mess with those just doing a final check before I start prying on this thing to make sure I got them all let's give a blue here a little bit of time here on the spotlight I think there's another one here why would you put two bolts so close to each other okay that size loose wasn't particularly fun oh no it's coming off well now we can get a better look at just how dark and dirty and dingy the inside of this engine is I don't really see anything broken but it is pretty filthy and it's got a bit of slack on it but that just could be the position of the engine I don't see any metal bits there's no sparkles I don't see anything too crazy yet yeah I am the first thing we're going to do before we take the uh tension out of these chains is crack these loose get these off and then we'll pull all the timing parts off actually these secondary air hoses are on my last nerve we're gonna remove this secondary air system here and these valves just make some space foreign the next thing we're going to do is remove the timing chain tensioners and you can never be too careful well that wasn't much it was all for not so here's a closer look at what the timing system looks like you can see this uh this guy doesn't isn't even bolted in there's not a lot of wear looks pretty good I don't really see any other issues in here it's just dirty that one looks pretty good too all right see if we can get these beautiful timing chains off of here I'm gonna have to take that rail off that one looked good too nice some reason this still has some tension on it there we go hey to do that for I didn't say that was okay you gotta be so difficult that did not help me well we have ourselves in a pickle I guess we could just take this all the way off that's what we're gonna do and really want to have to do that just now but so I don't remember how difficult this was on the last engine but we're just gonna walk these off and it's going to come off I get these chains out of here and in a safe place so judging by the shape of this cam gear if that flat spot was closer to this that chain would have come off before we go any further we're going to try to remove the injectors and rails we'll just make this a little easier to move the heads around nice and easy I know I've mentioned this in the past on previous Toyota V8 teardowns but I do like the design of having kind of a cam plate and then the head so if this is starved of oil and it tears up a cam journal you don't have to replace the cylinder head to get it fixed the downside to that is and many of you let me know this is that they are prone to leaking because they are just sealed to the cylinder head with RTV now I'm going to crack the cam Caps loose I'm getting better at this and I have to alternate sizes because there's a 10 and a 12 and a 10 and a 12. so this is going to take a little bit of uh editing and some some time but we'll get it done foreign journals look really good I don't see any damaged rockers on this side was as dirty as it is I expected to see more more damage to the journals but we haven't looked at the cams or the Caps yet well the cams are not that great they're not awful but come on Focus they're not terrible but they're definitely not perfect signs of dirty oil I don't know if it was a starvation issue but certainly some debris ran through here and the Caps don't look too bad it's a little bit of wear but not really worth mentioning the cams were definitely what to saw the wear and damage now I've got a few bolts to remove this cam plate which will give us access to the head bolts cool it's like a old can of tuna on a hot day and a car filled with trash it's a mustard on it all right I think I have all the bolts out you can start to pry this off now it's time to crack these head bolts loose these are some triple squares M12 triples hopefully they're not too tight [Music] well it's a lot of Racket for one Bolt [Music] they are on the tight side of things I'd say [Music] foreign [Music] there are also two more head bolts on the outside of the head casting foreign okay this head should just come right off well this all looks pretty tidy in here I don't see really anything too concerning the tops of the Pistons aren't shiny like they smack the cylinder head all the Pistons are facing the right direction four connecting rods check and the spacer in here is not melted so I don't think this was an overheated situation and the head looks really nice too nice and even color in the combustion chamber I don't see any valve damage just carbon buildup all right now we need to start on the other side we're going to just pull these off together just like the other bank nice and easy the cams from this side of the engine are about the same condition a little more wear on the journals but oddly enough I don't really see any damage from kicking a rocker off or a broken valve spring I think it got lucky that it didn't take out a cam yeah there's a little bit of wear on these levels it's not terrible by any stretch same thing with the cam caps they all look really nice I don't really see hardly anywhere on these this is just so dirty in here but now that we have the cams out of the way we can kind of dig around and see there is the retainer now we've already fished one of the keepers out and there's another one in here somewhere I would imagine there's The Rocker hiding out right there and that's where the valve is supposed to go like all these stayed in their home but that one did not now we're going to remove this cam plate now I'm going to remove these two outside head bolts and time for some noises [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign okay here's the moment it's gonna leak on me don't pee on me please oh it's gonna it's peeing oh I knew it foreign what well uh this head gasket off here lots of coolant let's get the coolant out of there we done well there's the damage to the piston a couple real deep holes in it but didn't go all the way through it doesn't look like what's interesting is there's no um there's no stem anywhere the rest of these they look okay I don't see any issues here just dirty but the cylinder head starts out okay and yep that's not how valves fit in the seat and it took the wrong seat you're not supposed to sit down like that it's really not too bad and there's a couple marks on this valve here a couple marks in the combustion chamber I don't think this happened at a super high RPM because the damage would have been much worse one thing I do want to do is turn this engine over to see if that piston comes all the way up I think it does yeah it's got some pretty deep marks in it all right now it's time to flip this thing upside down I'm pretty confident that it's mostly drained but we will find out in short order well it's got some oil in it making a mess now let's start peeling the pan off okay foreign [Music] this is really glued in here uh well that's unexpected there's a lot to unpack here I I'm surprised judging by the failure we've seen so far but first the sheer volume of our TV here I mean save some for the rest of us dude so much and then well let me get a light this engine has some forbidden glitter Sparkles I see some bearing material I did not expect that one I thought oh this engine probably just ran with a miss nope and then the pickup is sealed with RTV because you can never have too much RTV in places that it doesn't belong I don't think that caused any issues but it just goes to show you the type of craftsmanship that was done to this I'm pretty sure Toyota did not do that yeah you can see the original RTV and then the RTV that they added so clearly they did a great job and then in here there's there's the keeper look at that guy hanging out right there what's been floating around in here and then this I don't know where that came from and that looks like our TV I don't know the next thing we're going to do is pull the upper oil pan foreign yet and now we pry if we go any further I'm going to get this uh remain seal plate off this doesn't look too bad yet but we haven't cracked any of these Rod caps off all right we're going to rotate this over so we can start pulling the rods and pistons out we'll always start at the front it's much cleaner that way okay start getting the rods and pistons out whoa these are tight I love these blocks you have tool holders [Music] [Music] foreign bearings paint a picture of neglect because these are pretty rough for a Toyota could be a higher mileage engine but look at the grooves it's definitely had something run through the oiling system and then there are these these are pretty much gone these are gone now they're not distorted which is good I don't know if it was hammering or not but it was probably making some kind of noise but the last one is fine these two share a journal so not quite sure why this was the one that chose to come apart but just goes to show you that there can be more than one problem with an engine and most of the rods and pistons look pretty decent they're just dirty not a lot of skirt wear I don't see a lot of problems with these rings are free nothing's like carboned up in here but then let's go to the cylinder that ate itself here 's the marks that one's pretty deep right there I don't think any of them went through I can't see any signs that anything came through there so I guess the uh stem for that valve must have exited out of the exhaust it's pretty amazing it was a pretty long stem I would imagine we're gonna get this tube out of the way here I kind of come out just like so all right do we have sound yeah we have sound okay okay well we're gonna do this the old-fashioned way here oh the smell smells bad real bad oh smells like a microwave diaper with mustard on it I don't know why I just took a deep breath of that it made it so much worse I don't know what it is the domestic stuff doesn't usually smell like this but the import stuff is oh I need a break oh that's the last of it wow that smells bad I need some fresh air but first let's pull the crankshaft out [Music] now the main bearings look pretty bad they're almost worse than some of the rod bearings not the one but the most alarming part is look at the color of the oil in here it's a lot of metal in there forbidden glitter which you don't want to find inside of an engine now the crankshaft doesn't look too bad at first but this journal here is pretty rough it's definitely going to need to be polished but it could need to be turned if someone wanted to reuse this crankshaft something else worth mentioning this cylinder was the cylinder that dropped the valve broke a valve spring and it left some really deep grooves in here and it was probably parts of the valve as this engine was turning over again I don't think this was a high RPM failure but it still did some pretty significant damage we have one more matter of business and that is to retrieve the rest of this valve I don't know if we're gonna be able to do that that is really in there no that is a lot uh more difficult than I expected let's see oh it's moving now there we go valve is out wow that's pretty awesome as you can see it did some pretty significant damage to the seat here and here and I suppose you could fix this cylinder head but this head isn't worth enough to Warrant all that work but for what happened to this engine this isn't that bad we've seen much worse well here's the remnants of that valve you can see the damage on the sides from that piston cramming it into the valve seat and uh there's the broken valve spring overall for the failure not as bad as we've seen I really cringe at the idea of replacing valve springs as a maintenance item I just it's so much labor unless you have a push rod LS or something like that most of these engines require a ton of work to replace the valve springs and I'm not advocating that that's a good idea at all but we have seen a lot of broken valve springs cause catastrophic engine failure I do think that in some of these cases there's some warning signs that are ignored the check engine light comes on and throws some trouble codes and then maybe the owner of the car just takes a piece of electrical tape and boom fixes it or maybe it's ticking and running poorly and they try to give it the old Italian tune-up and well you see what happens I don't think this thing broke under load or high RPM this is probably an idle failure there weren't that many dings in the piston and it was kind of a not great engine anyway I mean it probably burned oil judging by the way the plugs looked and the bearings did not look good someone had also been in there with a lot of our TV way too much but this was still a great tear down I still have some good parts I've got a good cylinder head I've got a good timing cover intake manifold so I'll do just fine on this core it's just not that common to find a five seven which is why I jumped at the chance if you'd like to buy parts off of this engine or any of the other engines I've torn down or even this oofed WRX it's Rusty they're all rusty I'm gonna leave our email and our website in the video description and as always of all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 856,284

Keywords: Toyota 5.7, Tundra 5.7, 5.7, 5.7L V8, Problems, Mileage, mpg, towing, towing capacity, issues, Iforce, 3UR, 3UR-FE, Swap, Conversion, Fuel Mileage, Gas mileage, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, Twin turbo v6, Supercharger, Land Cruiser, LX570, Lexus, Sequoia, Tundra, LC200, 200 series, J200, Off-road, Lift kit, exhaust, exhaust clip, drag race, vs, Headers, Exhaust sound, Engine, Motor, Sound, ticking, knocking, Blown up, failure, TRD, 2UZ, 4.7, problems, timing chain

Id: l_1zeSsoOK0

Length: 36min 33sec (2193 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 04 2022