Bladerunner Blaster Prop Full Build - Prop Making Fan Fiction

over the past year or two I've tackled several blade runner' blaster builds there was the RAC kit the squirt gun repaint and the Goldberg stub nose blaster but today I'm tackling my own version of this iconic prop completely from scratch hey there fellow maker welcome down to my shop I'm Bill and today I'll be showing you how I made my own version of the iconic Blade Runner PKD blaster after having done several kits of this problem I decided it was time to make my own from scratch but with a little bit of a twist I added my own sort of flair to the look of the gun kind of like if it was a real product and the design of that product would have been iterated upon over the course of say 30 years inside the fiction of the Blade Runner universe of course a bit of prop making fan fiction if you will a while back I put together an RAC props kit of the blaster and that's kind of where I started for my design I also looked at references and technical drawings of the Bulldog revolver that the original prop was built around all of my references got dumped into fusion 360 and I started my 3d models this was probably my favorite part I would 3d model a piece print it out on my ulta maker using ABS filament and then start putting the parts together this was an exercise in patience and design iteration some of the parts like the receiver took several tries to get it just right I added my own cosmetic upgrades like the facets on the top barrel and a simpler design for the grips I also added a couple of structural updates for example I split apart the receiver to give myself better access to the hammer and trigger mechanism this part of the build up me a couple of weeks mostly in my spare time but it was fun to always have a 3d print going while I worked on a different part of the build I really enjoyed making all of the moving parts like the pop-out cylinder work properly I did have to machine a couple of small metal parts on the lathe but they ended up being super robust and worked out great after quite a few versions I finally had an assembly that I was happy with of course I did end up with lots of extra part that didn't work out the blue parts were printed in ABS how am i old to maker to plus extended than the clear and black parts were printed on the form too to get higher accuracy on some of the more detailed parts at this point I could test that all of the moving parts worked correctly before finishing the pieces for mold making this meant a a lot of sanding I wanted to make sure the parts would come out of the molds nearly perfect so I put everything through the gauntlet of sandpaper grips some of them getting as high as 2,000 grit some of the spots did need a little bit of filling so I used an air drying spot putty before sanding I also sprayed my parts with some primer so that I could see the areas that still needed to work other than that I just sanded the plastic as smooth as possible and I'm pretty blown away with how smooth that was able to get the raw ABS plastic hey while I'm finishing up that sanding I'd like to take a moment to thank our patrons we've been having a ton of fun over there we've got behind-the-scenes vlogs every single week and we've started doing extra credit videos for all of our builds I'll be doing a deep dive into this project and talking a bunch about the behind the scenes on this one so if you'd like to join in on the fun over there and also get access to our build videos a couple days early then head on over to patreon comm slash punish props and consider tossing us a buck thanks so much for your support all right let's get back to the build to get the parts extra shiny I use some plastic polish to really bring up the glossiness on the part especially those that were meant to look like black plastic on the finished blaster I figured I could cast him in a black urethane resin and they wouldn't need any painting to get the text on the side of the barrel I put the 3d printed part right inside my laser cutter and etched my own custom text this worked better than expected now I didn't want to use any glue on the final prop so I carefully planned out what kinds of screws I would need I also kept the labeled diagram so I wouldn't forget which screw went where the prop ended up being over 30 parts in total and I needed to make a silicone mold for each and every one of them most of them were two-part mold so it took quite a while each part needed to be cleaned up to create a parting line before covering that half in liquid silicone for the inner barrel I actually 3d printed my own some old jacket with built-in registration it worked out great and I'm planning an experimenting with more intricate 3d printed mold jackets in the future the rest of the molding went well it just took a long tedious time especially on some of the more complicated parts like that top barrel when it was time to pour the second half of the molds I could flip them over remove the clay spray in some mold release and pour the other halfs I went through a substantial amount of silicone mostly mold max 30 which is a good all-purpose tin cure silicone when that silicone was fully cured I could finally remove my parts from the mold and get on to casting all of the final parts this is where things started to get exciting now to get a metallic finish on the parts that were supposed to look like metal I used a technique called cold casting a metal powder in this case aluminum was dusted on the inside surface of the silicone mold and the excess was dumped back out then the mold was clamped together and liquid resin is poured in to fill the cavity for a silvery metallic finish it's best to use grey or black resin so I use smooth-cast 326 with black UVO pigment this particular resin gives you plenty of working time to pour the resin in all of those tiny molds while that resin was still liquid it was placed inside of a pressure pot to ensure that any remaining bubbles would be compressed so small that they couldn't be seen this is critical because you can't sand and fill a cold cast finish the metal powder only makes up a thin outer shell of the resin and it's far too easy to accidentally chew through it and it's also nearly impossible to repair fortunately my molds worked out great and my cold cast parts popped out of the molds looking fantastic any flashing was scraped off easily and I could buff the surface with a fine steel wool to bring out that genuine metallic finish for the fake bullet inside the magazine I added brass powder and aluminum powder to just the parts I wanted to be colored anywhere that the powder spilled over was cleaned up with a cotton swab and some isopropyl alcohol this way I could cast the part with black plastic and when it popped out of the mold all I had to do was buff the fake bullet and the entire part was done no painting necessary the grips were also cast in that smooth-cast 326 but this time with an orange tint this mold was also pressure cast to ensure there will be no bubbles and the resulting parts look incredible before I could finish the Parts I did need to trim off the extra plastic on my pouring spouts after cutting them off on the bandsaw I used my sanding tools to remove the last little bit on the cold cast parts and needed to plan the location of those spouts so that you wouldn't see the exposed black plastic when everything was assembled any rough cut areas on the black parts simply needed to be sanded and polished back down to that nice high shine for the lights on the magazine I drilled out some holes in a tiny piece of acrylic plastic to install several three millimeter red LEDs these were wired up inside the magazine to add that nice friend Lowe to the side and bottom of the blaster finally it was time to put everything together and started by drilling and tapping all of the poles there's over 40 screws on this beast and I had to be extremely careful this particular plastic resin will take a thread but if you over torque a screw it'll rip the threads right out the triggers were installed and while the front trigger only moves a little bit against the spring the rear trigger actually makes the hammer snap back and forth this was a lot of extra effort to get the mechanics to work just so but it is super satisfying and I'm glad I made it functional one by one all of the parts were screwed onto the main assembly until finally it was completed [Music] [Music] [Music] this guy here is so so satisfying I need everything I set out to do with this project and I could not be happier all of the features work that's right the bolt opens and slides back and forth the main trigger does its pew-pew the cylinder actually pops open and closes just like so and finally the magazine pops out and has working lights as a side note this was done completely without paint or glue you heard me and that was the goal going into this hence the cold cast finish and all of these black plastic pieces being completely bare as well as of course the orange grips that being said I'm not sure if I want to weather this I kind of like this fresh from the factory look what do you think should I dirty it up a little bit let me know in the comments hey thanks so much for hanging out with me in the shop today I really do hope you enjoyed this build and I hope you learned something along the way as always all of the tools and materials I used for this build will be linked down in the description but I'm trying something different with this one I have a hunch that you're gonna want one of these so I'm actually going to sell the 3d files so that you could pretty print your own I've never released any of my 3d files before this is a first for me you can find the files for sale over on our website finish prop calm for less than 10 bucks I'll also have an assembly instructional video to go along with that and a full list of all the hardware you'll need to put it all together feel free to do whatever you want with the printed parts if you want to make one for yourself or for someone else that's totally cool you want a molding casick and go for it I'd appreciate if you didn't share or sell the files but the prints and go nuts all the details on that will be in the product description linked below okay that's all I have for you today if you have any questions about this build please let me know down in the comments I also have a lot more behind the scenes stuff to say about this build that I'm gonna do an extra-credit video over on patreon thanks again for watching and I'll see you in the next build [Music]

Channel: Punished Props Academy

Views: 119,353

Keywords: punished props, bill doran, gun, blaster, how to, pkd, make, build, mold, cast, cold, metal, powder, smooth on, silicone, resin, smooth cast, mold max, polish, bladerunner, blade runner, deckard, sidearm, urethane, moving parts, tutorial, prop making, iconic, blade runner blaster, blade runner gun, prop, props, prop building, blade runner pistol, bladerunner blaster, making props, 3d printed props, punished props academy, props making, blade runer, Bladerunner Blaster Prop

Id: C6Rn75N8Ss4

Length: 10min 57sec (657 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 03 2018