Blade shear Rebuild & Keith Rucker Shop Visit

hey guys welcome to the shop this week i had a very special shop visitor that i want to share with you keith rucker from the well-known youtube machinist channel vintagemachinery.org was down this way on other business and decided he wanted to stop by the shop help me out with a few of the other little projects that i got going on around here so i want to share a little bit of that visit with you i really enjoyed it he is a super nice guy i also got into a few other little things this week but very little my time this week was very limited so thanks for watching guys and i hope you enjoy so here's the blade cutter on this machine come factory so it's 68 years old probably cut thousands and thousands of blades hardened steel blades and it's extremely dull you really gotta crank on this thing to get it to somewhat tear a blade into so let's pull it off of here and take it over the bench and see what it's gonna take for us to freshen this thing up if it's even possible it could be past the point of no return so here's a look at the blade cutter a little closer look it has a blade on top two blades on the bottom the blade on top goes down it goes in between the two on the bottom just uses a cam to move that blade and it's broken here it's got should have two of these ears one on this side now i've already went through the trouble and made a replacement what i pretty much want to do is sharpen the blades on this and clean it up and get it working right again and make new uh a new handle for it so let's let's tear it down get a better look at it see just how bad these blades are because they're not in good shape and if we can or maybe can't sharpen these so these duo bandsaws that come with a blade welder i've never seen one that didn't come with a blade shear as well although they're probably out there but that's basically a one stop shop imagine your milling machine coming with a small cutter grinder attached to it that's basically the idea here they really have done a great thing when they put blade welder blade shear all the stuff that you need even a grinder on these machines so and they really really had it had it figured out on these old saws i don't have some snapping pliers there that's small time so so for the last few hours i've left all the parts other than the blades of that shear inside of this tank with the pump running and it's circulating now this is zip a purple degreaser is what i use in here and this stuff is uh pretty dirty it's about due for a change but it works extremely well in fact it works so well that if you're not careful it will pull off the paint and i left these in there for this reason on purpose but you get the idea that's some pretty good stuff so who is it hippie the green connor the shop parrot now so here i've got my rockwell hardness tester and just because i'm curious i want to see how hard the blades are that come out of that blade cutter and that on that band saw so we're going to put them in here and see i'm sure they're on the c scale and see just how hard they actually are we'll start with the main central cutter so i've stoned this blade off i want it to sit really flat on the anvil and we'll set it on there and raise the part up into the penetrator we'll make one full loop on the indicator basically we have a little side needle here we want to bring that into the black dot then i'm going to zero the indicator i get a little ring down here i can twist to zero the bezel then there's a button little place that you press here to start everything in motion and this is not the reading let this needle settle and reset this handle down here and then that should give us the hardness of this part all right so i'm going to flip this handle that should tell us how hard it is so it is 55 58.25 rockwell c really you'd do three tests and average them but one's good enough for for what we're doing so i'm going to test the other two as well to see how hard they are you know as well in comparison to this one i guess so we let that needle settle a bit and then pull this one handle down here and that will give us the hardness that one says it's 60. not pippy this is the bird that can sometimes be heard when i'm editing when i'm doing voiceovers you hear a loud squawking it's this guy right here guy or a girl yeah it could be could be a girl hmm so here's a look at all the blades here's the main central blade and you know all this does is come down between these two and really it's supposed to shear the blade but in this condition it's just kind of crunching it into breaking it because we have a radius on this edge this is the cutting edge really we want this to be a sharp 90 degree but we're rolled over pretty good right here now we'll do what we can to get the majority of that out but we we're not going to be able to get it all out i don't think this will work much better when we're done but it's still not going to be in perfect condition really these are so bad that they need replaced all these edges are rolled over pretty hard so we'll see what we can do i'm sure it'll work better than it did so ground advice is down on the grinder we're going to put a parallel in there and i'm going to grind both of the side blades at the same time so i'm just going to back those up against each other already stoned them off really good so they should sit in here good and square just push them down a bit that should be good yep okay wheels already dressed so all we gotta do is clean these up a bit we'll take as little off as possible so i'm gonna pull off about 20 thousandths at least that's the goal after touch off [Music] so because the parts that we're grinding are actually narrower than the wheel is wide no reason to traverse across this thing the only thing i'm doing is speeding the grounding head down into the part until i hit the numbers that i want i'm calling it good this is about as simple of a port to grind as there is all right let's see what that looks like [Applause] yeah yeah nothing wrong with that [Applause] not good enough on these so on this main blade the cutting edge and the back of it is not parallel so that's what i'm doing right now is using an indicator off the actual cutting edge moving the table back and forth just to make sure that i grind on the exist this on the existing angle that it is in relationship to the back of it anyway so within a couple thousands because it varies a bit so that's good enough these aren't super precision [Applause] parts [Music] [Music] so [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so grounding the center blade is exactly the same as grounding the other two side blades what i'm trying to avoid is grinding away too much that way if i did these shears wouldn't close all the way and then i'd end up with a blade cutter that just doesn't work so there's not a lot of excess material here to remove so i just have to be really careful dust them as good as i can get them and call that good enough or else i'll be in trouble ah it's better than it was so i think we're about ready to go back together all cleaned up i'm going to put a little bit of light oil on these because we ran them through that degreasing tank and they'll rust otherwise i'm not going to paint them they're not painted originally on the on any of the saws i've ever seen blades turned out really good there's not a lot of meat left though if we ever had to grind them again we'd have to just dust them so we'll keep them sharp and then we won't have any trouble when you let them continue to wear and continue to wear and roll over them edges is when you get problems so this also needs to be really straight because this is what holds those blades and if it's bent any bit or if the bolts are loose that hold these two frames together it allows these blades to separate a bit and it more tears the blade that you're cutting into instead of shearing it so we need to make sure that this fits together properly and then we shouldn't have any problems with it should work the way that the way that it should so let's uh check these make sure they're not bent and start putting this thing back together so i'm just checking these shear frames with a with a straight edge basically a rule just to make sure that they're not bent because if they were i'd want to straighten those up that way i make sure that these blades are held square to each other or parallel with each other and they come together nicely otherwise the shear wouldn't work very well and i believe these frames are blued and none of the saws that i've ever seen with these on them had the shears painted from the factory so i'm not painting these and i'm just wiping them down with a little oil to help keep them from rusting but to be honest ever since i've got this shop together and sealed up and been running this dehumidifier i haven't dealt with any rust and before that before the shop was done i had to walk around every week wipe every metal surface down and it was still a losing battle everything rusted moisture in my toolboxes mold and on and on and on and closing this shop a best thing ever did dehumidifier second so if you got moisture issues in your shop man pick up a dehumidifier they they work [Music] do [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] new handle order that knob and made the the rods just a piece of one just mimicked its length after the original just measured the one at there work go let's try it out see if it works i don't see why it wouldn't but i want to see if it works so who in their right mind gets excited about trying out a bandsaw blade sheer i do if you would consider me in my right mind that is i guess i just get excited about fixing stuff and it working the way that it should instead of you know having to struggle with everything all the time because that's what you do if stuff doesn't work well so let's try it out half inch wide 25 000 thick this is a piece of bi-metal blade it's what i'm going to be using in this for the majority of stuff so let's try it and see how it works i know before it cut like crap so cut okay at the back of the blade where i have all the leverage but at the front it didn't do any good so let's try it i am excited for this really all right so all the way out at the front of the blade sorry for the horrible shot but this piling cabinet is in my way so pretty good a lot better than what it was before it's not super easy at the back of the blade it should be yeah it's like butter at the back of the blade but that makes sense because it's got so much leverage back there but at the front where you should cut your blades anyway because that's what these ears are for or to make sure that your blade is pushed up good and square that way when you weld it back together yeah it's just it's already square so try it again yeah a little effort but light years better than what it was before so i would consider that a success so i've got a very special visitor in the shop this week i'm extremely excited this is keith rucker from vintage machinery from the youtube channel vintage machinery he's down here uh what are you you're bringing a piece of equipment to work with brian right yeah so i've actually got a a clutch off of a 50 horsepower steam traction engine the case traction engine this is for the florida flywheelers group down in florida and uh they wanted me to board out it have somewhere in it bored out and put some bushings in it and it's just too big to swing on any of my legs i needed a lathe that was swinging like 30 inches and who has that yeah brian yeah brian block has that i've talked to brian and he's like yeah bring it on up so i'm actually scheduled he's working today this is on a saturday and but he's off on sunday so i'm going to go buy his place tomorrow but brian only lives what about 20 30 minutes from me yeah yeah if if that yeah about 20 minutes and i've been up to brian's shop two or three times i have met steve before never been to a shop before so i said you know what i'm going to swing by and check him out and whatever so here i am i appreciate it and we got some things we're going to play around with today right yep going to work on the surface plate and check these gives out yeah so you guys know he's been restoring that do-all big new all-metal machine machine and and uh he's gonna tap into some of my experience with machinery building i'm not an expert but i guess i know more than more of an expert than i am so glad to have him yeah so anyway let's do it yeah let's do it so we're over here at the surface plate and steve has a really nice pink stair and you said you've had this it is calibrated it was redone by starrett uh in june okay so you had it sent off and they lapped it yep and re-certified it and what grade is it i believe it's an a an a okay a is plenty sufficient and i'll tell you a lot of times when people do these surface plates if you tell them you want an a they're gonna they're gonna certify it as an a but it could be a double a but usually if you want the double a certification you have to pay more for it i know when i had my surface plate done one time it graded a double a but i'm like guy told me like you know i put a double a sticker on there but you don't need a double a sticker so let me just put an a sticker on there and it'll be a lot cheaper yep so i don't know what it but double a is fine yes but before we start using this the first thing anytime you use service plate you need to get it good and clean you got to remember that we're making measurements off of this that are in the sub tenths of a thousandth of an inch so even a little bit of dust on this thing can make a difference so i typically just use windex so that's a let's get everything off of it and get it cleaned up so typically the first thing i'm going to do is just take my hand and you can feel the stuff and it don't take long i mean i'm not being critical here at all right i mean you just you have to do this throughout the day to get this thing clean oh yeah and i mean at 20 minutes from now there's just going to be dust particles settle on this thing and you don't realize how important that is but you know so anyway i kind of like to clean you can feel it with your hand really well and we'll come in here and just use this windex there's all kinds of stuff you can use to clean surface plates with stair makes a surface plate cleaner um i think uh stand ridge has a really nice surface plate cleaner that has like a lanolin stuff in there really does a good job but yeah i've never i've never used that i've only used used windex but windex also does a good job it's not super dirty you can see some stuff we're pulling off of there but i just can't emphasize how important it is to do this every time you use your surface plate and even you're using it a lot throughout the day to stop and clean your surface plate throughout the day and also we'll keep down the wear on the plate as well that's right dragging tools around and usually they'll once you get it kind of like clean it just takes a second or two and it just evaporates off so this is the the give on the table right yes that's the table and if you're not familiar with a give this is what's used to adjust the the the dovetails on it it makes it adjust the tightness in those and if you look this is tapered it's thin on one end it's white on the other and your your dovetail is machined to match this taper on one side and basically you just slide this thing in and out and you can tighten it up so that as the machine wears you can keep it where your table's not slopping side to side so it is tapered but both sides of this should be a nice flat plane now this side over here this is the side that basically just actually no this is the okay i'm sitting here looking at this is the side that's got the oil grooves in it so this is the side that's actually rubbing up against the uh the table and you can see the wear marks in it the other side has been straight but this has just been scraped flat so you just basically got two planes here and when you are are doing this what you'll do is when you get your table back is you'll actually scrape this side to match it so make sure the tapers are just right but this side has been scraped so we want to make sure that it is it is flat and the way you can do that is through a process called hinging and if you sit here and just lay on the surface plate and you grab one in and move it notice it's pivoting right here and it's pivoting right here so what that tells me is that this part is bowed yes it's high in the middle we could probably get some feeler gauges and slide up underneath if we wanted to and if we flip it over the other side you would expect to be the exact opposite it's going to be high and it's going to be yeah it's going to be low on these ends all right in the center so it's probably going to pivot look right there in the middle so if you've got good contact from one of the other it's going to pivot about one-third in from each side so somewhere right along in here is where it should be pivoting if this thing is perfectly flat so that's just a really quick thing you can do to see how flat something is so have you got some feeler gauges i do let's uh let's let's see how far out we are all right so i just found the thinnest one he has this is one and a half thousandths thick and what we're going to do is just see if we can slide it up underneath there and we can right in there see there about right in there it starts touching again all the way out let's flip it over the other way so yeah and it starts touching about there and about there so let's go to something thicker there's four thousandths so yeah we got a pretty good bow in there see there's seven thousandths something here that one's nine thousandths um pretty substantial bow yeah there's actually more than i thought it was now i guess there's a few things uh who knows it's just a random set uh a few things that can cause these to bow what would you call think the main just over time this cast iron creeping or the adjustments and the pressure on them the biggest thing is is that um the way these things are adjusted and what have you a lot of times you'll get pressure on one side of the other and it will just it'll just bend over time yeah especially if you guess if you have both screws tight against each other and it bows out the center maybe and a lot of times too you have shims behind it sometimes they'll put shims behind these if you're if it starts getting worn and a lot of times they put shims on either end so that allows it to not wear evenly but ideally you want to have good contact on both sides yeah we got ten thousands there that's i guess i could double some up but i'm not going to take them apart the main thing is we see we've got a good bit to go so how do we get that out there's a couple of things you could do we could just start scraping on this thing and you know cut ten thousandths off of the ends but um you know this thing is bent that's the reason that it's like this so i think what we're going to try to do is before we do any scraping we're going to try to just bend it back into shape as close as we can we're not going to get it perfect but you know hopefully we can get it within an hour or two because with hand scraping you know the more you have to take off the more work you have to do it's also you know typically we want to try to get something when you're hand scraping to be within well you're not having to remove more than about three or four thousand yeah so that's kind of the rule of thumb if you have to scrape off more than three or four thousands you're probably better off machine machining it yeah yeah that makes sense let's uh let's see if we can set up and and bend this a little bit so we got the gibb in here and just just to kind of let folks know this give is made out of cast iron i know some people say well you know you can't bend cast iron it'll break cast iron will break but it will bend a lot more than people give it credit for uh it's actually very flexible material a lot more flexible than people think it is we've only you know i'm going to start with you know we know we've got to go at least 10 thousandths now what you got to remember is when you bend this it's going to spring back so you know we can kind of look on here i'm going to try to get it when it springs back to go to 10 thousands because that was the last one i measure i know it's probably more than that but we're going to sneak up on this yeah so i'm gonna probably go to twenty thousandths i'm just using a c clamp here i've got it jacked up on the ends we know this is at least somewhere to about the middle i'm going to probably just go about that far and let's go back back off now and okay we actually i'm not sure yeah we the c-clamp was pushing down on one of the zeros go ahead and re-zero it right there we got plenty to take out of this thing all right so i'm gonna oops go too far back we're to bend it a pretty good bit here and then back it back out so that moved it a few thousand about almost five thousand but we're going to keep on going here and bend it some more and it looks like we've done about 15 thousand there so let's take it back to the surface plate and see where we're at and it's just a rinse and repeat operation until you get it where you want it great we'll take that uh that's a nine thousands and it's touching yeah okay we moved it yeah so i can't get it all the way through there it's coming through the front which seems sitting a little bit crooked but so let's go down let's see here's our one and a half thou okay it's still in there good let's go somewhere about halfway in between it slides under there but i can actually feel it some tension on it so we haven't got far to go right there flex it down come back off and we've gone about five pounds so let's see what it looks like now all right so it's still pivoting on the ends but i can actually tell it's moved down just a little bit from where it was before but we are probably close enough now we're just gonna have to start scraping you know i can feel that tension in there without 5000 let's go down to something kind of rough breathe out still apply it there it is so i can get that thou and a half up underneath it but barely i go to i don't see a two in here but i do have a three that one there that's not the three i saw it a minute ago that's the three right there and the three is touching so we're probably where we need to be so let's uh let's start scraping it yeah so we're just putting some spot and ink on here and we're gonna blew it up i'll show you my engine we got right now it's not perfect but i think we're to the point where we need to start paying a little bit closer attention to what we're doing so if you look now engine roughly right right here which is not quite a third in and i think a third would be somewhere right along in there and about the same on this side so we're getting close the feeler gauge you know in places you can still get it in there in places you can but we're going to take it over here now we'll drop our part down on here and blew it up and i'm sitting here just looking but the ends are obviously still high because i can actually see the marks on there but it's going to transfer over what by mark's you you're seeing it in there i'm seeing in the heat yeah you can see we're just rubbing the ink on the plate but you can actually see a little mark there so we're making some contact it's heavier there a little bit lighter there that matches our hinge points uh so anyway we'll just flip this over now and there you go you can see exactly what's high on here so we got it looks like some really high points on the very end we got some high points there high point on the very end and we're actually making some contact in the center and we're still from a scraping standpoint got a pretty good ways to go here but we're starting to get contact so we got just a couple points on the end here that are high a little bit of blue right here we actually got some contact in the center and tiny about here then we got two real high points on the end so we'll knock those high points down and i'm probably just not even gonna do anything about the middle right now i'm just gonna hit these high points on the end and bring it back over for another round so for those that don't know the tool that keith is using right now is called a power scraper and it works very similar to a reciprocating saw or a sawzall except for this tool i like to think of it as micro machining each little scrape that keith does with this tool pulls off anywhere from two to five tenths of a thousandth of an inch so although it may look like something you'd see used in a butcher shop if you use it in the proper manner in sequence constantly checking your work you can get extremely accurate parts with using this method so after probably four or four cycles four or five yeah uh getting a lot more contact and it's uh it's coming in it's starting to look pretty good yeah so you know what i'm excited to see is every time we do it we're getting more blue marks out here in the areas that i haven't scraped i've kind of scraped this area kind of this area in the middle and probably out to about here but it's like this is virgin airy at least for us you know we haven't had any marks in there so that tells me we're making progress it's getting flatter and flatter and this is the first time i mean we're i'm still in roughing mode right now but i'm starting to get fairly even contact points all the way across this we're nowhere close to where we want to be at but uh i guarantee you that this right now is probably better than most gives than most machines yeah uh we've made a huge improvement to it but we're gonna we're gonna make it better so let's go at it we're just gonna continue on here so this job is extremely repetitive after every cycle we clean the part up take it back to the surface plate we rub it on the blue section of the surface plate any ink that transfers from the plate to the part we know that at that point our part is touching and our plate is our master it is the flattest thing in the shop so if we match this part to the plate we know that it will be flat or that it's much flatter than it was to begin with because it had a substantial bow in it but you get the idea it's a very repetitive back and forth and if you keep it up and use the right technique you'll end up with an extremely flat part to get to try to get it any better than what it is now would just be wasted effort really as it is a static surface just nice so it's a lot better than it was because it was way out and only give you know again right now all we're trying to do is make this surface flat you'll scrape i said i was going to say we but you're you'll scratch yeah you'll scrape the the other side into the part once we get it there you've got a nice flat surface there to to work off on that back side looks good i appreciate the help that was that's awesome little project yeah so the mail just ran and i received a couple really nice viewer gifts that i definitely appreciate for the duo saw one will complete the look and i guess the function of it as well and the other one's pretty much awesome spare parts so let me show you what was sent i really appreciate it so a lot of you know if you've watched my previous videos that when i got my big do all saw it was missing the speed chart it actually blew off when my buddy al was hauling this thing and joe maloney a viewer of the channel heard my call basically for one of these charts and uh contacted me said he had old saw that he wasn't fixing and he'd be glad to send this chart in to basically complete mine at least let this chart live on on another saw so i appreciate it this thing's awesome not only does it complete the look of the saw but it's also a great tool to have for setting your speeds saw speeds saw type there's a ton of useful information on this thing let me show it to you a little closer and then i will clean it up and put it on so i actually i want to show you the other parts that were sent in to the channel as well parts for the duo saw so these charts are really a crucial part to the saw they'll tell you how fast you run your blade what type of blade to run depending on the thickness of material should you run flood coolant should you run missed coolant or no coolant at all it gives different speeds for different materials on and on and on it's an extremely useful chart and a great tool to have with the saw that's really why they went through all the trouble to make such an elaborate chart for those saws because they were a great tool to have and they're not easy to find used right you don't want really the saw without the chart if they come with it that is so thank you joe i appreciate this more than you know i'm going to clean this thing up and put it at its new home on my saw elizabeth's over here comparing elizabeth's over here comparing charts because they made a bunch of different variations and she's just scrolling the internet seeing what differences they are because they did they did make quite a few the one at work is a little different than this more a little more modern but basically the same infos on all of them so the next items that were sent in are from robert kirkpatrick and that is two sets of blade guides for the dual that are a little more modern than the ones that are on mine now and have some of the parts that mine are actually missing so thank you robert i appreciate these i'll definitely use them i'll probably just completely rebuild these while i'm using this saw and then swap them out that's what i think i'll do and work out maybe a couple different coolant systems for for different guides i don't know we'll see but those are nice to have so thank you they were sitting on his shelf unused he didn't have the saw i guess and they weren't doing him any good so thank you i appreciate that so if you have one of these dual saws with a chart similar to this do me a favor and look on your chart and see if it has meteorites in in the selection of materials as far as for sawing this one has petrified wood meteorites fire brick limestone in the diamond sawing section it may be on yours in the abrasive or friction who knows but look and see if you have meteorites on your chart ours at work has meteorite on it as well so this really does complete the look of the saw not only is it useful this is probably the most used piece of the chart that i'll i'll be referring to and that just gives it's a contouring section and that just gives your basic grades of steel suggestions on your speeds and feeds this chart also gives your maximum radius that you can cut given a band's thickness or width and right now we're on this does not have 4140 on it it's 41.30 let's say 41.37 we wanted to cut that grade of steel and our piece is an inch thick so it recommends we use a mist coolant it recommends heavy cutting pressure what that is i'm not for sure but it recommends heavy it's saying we should use a six tooth per inch blade which a precision blade this is based on carbon steel blade right it's not not bi-metal and then it's saying we should run our blade at about 50 surface feet per minute and we should expect 0.65 inch travel on our feed so pretty neat i'm glad to add this man that's nice all right guys that's it this week huge thanks to keith rucker from vintage vintagemachinery.org for stopping by the shop i am very glad to add his name to the list of guys who've stopped by and paid the shop a visit i don't want to forget brian block lance balzy adam booth all those guys have stopped by to give me a hand with scraping either power or just hand scraping and it's pretty intimidating to go at your precision surfaces with a scraper right you wouldn't think that that's the way that it's done but it is and you can get extremely extremely accurate parts doing things that way it won't be long before the parts for the dual meal will be back from grinding and they will require some hand scraping to get them to get them back fit together as good as they can anyway so i got to look forward to doing that it's a bit intimidating but it'll work out i'm sure so huge thanks to robert kirkpatrick for the guides and joe maloney on the do all bandsaw chart man those are amazing gifts and i can't say thanks enough the youtube machinist community is absolutely amazing and i wouldn't be able to i wouldn't be where i'm at and i wouldn't be able to hopefully go where i'm going without your guys support so much appreciated so that's it viewers patrons subscribers you guys are amazing and i'll see you next time [Music] as the lights leave your eyes hold on to your train oh i know you wanna scream [Music] since the day you're born you're just a flower on your own waiting for the sun to blow soon

Channel: Steve Summers

Views: 29,463

Rating: 4.9707885 out of 5

Keywords: Machining, lathe, shaper, welding, awesome, funny, metal, threading, tools, repair, fix, diy, keith rucker, Bandsaw, restore, rebuild, Adam booth, grinding, drillpress, toolmaker, surfaceplate, scraping, overhaul, Starrett, presicion, tigwelding

Id: QQQdL29EviM

Length: 45min 19sec (2719 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 24 2021