Today we're talking about the Blackmagic ATEM
Mini Pro, and what this one does that the original did not. Hey folks, I'm PhotoJoseph. Today I'm gonna be talking specifically about
the new features in the ATEM Mini Pro. I won't be covering everything that is the
same between this and the original ATEM Mini because I already did a long video on that
that has been seen by a bunch of people, quite possibly yourself, and if you haven't seen
it, do go check that one out first because in that video, I cover all the basics of what
this unit does. This video is specifically about what's new
in the ATEM Mini Pro, and we're going to start with Multiview. This is Multiview. Multiview allows you to see all four of your
HDMI inputs, as well as your Program Out, your Preview, if you've chosen to work that
way (and we'll get into that), your audio status, your live-streaming status, your recording
status and the current still store all in one view. This is something the original one did not
have that a lot of people wish that it did, and it is really a big deal. It allows you to have so much more control
and overview and just visibility of your entire program and what you're getting ready to push
out to air. So, if you're running a show by yourself;
it's just you, you're the one on air, you're probably not going to use Multiview. It'd be too much to be looking at that and
trying to switch and talk to your audience at the same time. But if you're operating the switcher for somebody
else, then this is absolutely invaluable. So, even if you're not interested in using
the ATEM Mini livestream from the unit itself, if you are controlling a show, then this alone
is a fantastic feature to have. So, let's take a look at how this works… First of all, to activate it, you go into
the ATEM settings and under the Output menu, you set it to Multiview or on the ATEM Mini
itself, you just push the M/V or Multiview button, or you can switch this over to view
the program out or individual inputs; 1, 2, 3 and 4 on here. The difference between choosing the camera
angle on the video out, which is what that tab is, versus just changing camera angles
here is that this is your actual program out, this is what your audience will see. Whereas this is what you see, only you see
this. So, if you need to get a close-up view of
one of the camera inputs, you can easily switch over to that; what's going on in camera two? You can push that button, take a look at it… Okay, everything's good and then go back to
the Multiview and get the overall view. So, it's really powerful to have those options
right there at your fingertips. Now, there's more that you can set up and
control inside of Multiview, but for that, we need to go over to the software again. Back in the ATEM control software, if you
click on the gear icon on the bottom left corner, that will open the Settings and then
switch to Multiview and here you'll see the different controls that you have. First of all, I can switch between the Preview
and the Program and just swap their order on the screen if I wanted to do that, I can
choose to have title safe areas showing up… and so, this is showing title safe for 16:9
as well as a 4:3 area. So, if for some reason you're broadcasting
to 4:3 or you need to be safe for 4:3, you've got that covered. I'm gonna leave that off. Then you have audio level meters that can
show up on any or all of the inputs, and there's even a button to turn them all on for you. And when I turn them all on, you can see now
that I have audio level meters showing up on all of my inputs including the program
out. But if I'm not using one of the audio tracks…
so, for example I'm not using the audio from Over the shoulder, I don't care about the
audio from the ATEM Close Up, I can disable those and then I just don't see them on the
screen and it keeps things a little bit cleaner. I do like to keep it enabled on the program
out because this shows me what the audience is hearing. If I see these meters bouncing, then I know
the audience can hear me. And on that note, another question that came
up a lot with the earlier ATEM was "how do you monitor audio?". There's no headphone jack on the ATEM Mini
or in the ATEM Mini Pro. So, how are you supposed to monitor what the
audience is hearing? Well, you do have your HDMI out and even as
it's configured right now in this Multiview mode, I can hear through the headphone port
on this monitor whatever the audience is hearing. So, you do have that capability, you just
need to plug in your headphones into the monitor. Alright, back to the settings over here. That's everything in the Multiview tab. But you may have noticed that these are all
named something special; this one's called Main Camera and Over The Shoulder, ATEM CU
(Close Up), iPad… I can change these labels so that they make
sense when I'm looking at them on screen. To do that, you go to the labels menu. Specifically we're looking at Input and we
have four inputs here; input 1,2,3 and 4, and in here I can type in whatever I want
and there's two different labels; there's the long name and the short name; or the Name
and the Label. So, for example this one I called Main Camera
and then the short version which can only be four letters I called MAIN. Over the shoulder; SHLD (shoulder), ATM CU
(close-up), ATEM and then iPad, IPAD. The long name show up on the Multiview itself. So, there's Main camera, Over the shoulder,
ATEM CU, iPad, you got also to see the Program and the Preview up here, media player 1 and
down here it'll tell me where I'm streaming to; YouTube in this case. We'll come to that. The short names show up on the buttons. So, if I click Save now and go to the Switcher,
you'll see the short name showing up on these buttons here; MAIN, SHLD, ATEM and IPAD. If you're wondering why there's so many blank
buttons on here, that's because the same software, the same interface is used on the much bigger
ATEMs which have a lot more inputs. This one's limited to four inputs and so,
those are the buttons that we see. If I do want to switch the hardware into the
Preview mode, I have to go into the ATEM setup, there's the ATEM Mini Pro, select that and
choose the Switching Mode from Cut Bus to Program Preview. Now, this is a feature that existed in the
original ATEM Mini, however, without the multi-view, it became a lot harder to use. But now that we have Multiview, I can more
effectively show you how it works. So, let's go ahead and save this and then
I'll switch over to the ATEM. And now when I hit one of the input buttons,
it goes green instead of going red. And that has not changed the active angle. This is the program out and this is now the
preview. So, as I click on a different button on here,
that loads into the preview window but the program, what's going out to the audience,
doesn't change. That doesn't change until I hit either the
Cut or the Auto button. So, right now it's set to Cut, so I'll just
hit cut and that switches over to the other input. Let's switch over to camera 2 and this time
I'll do Auto and it's going to do a cross dissolve. This format allows you more control over what's
going to air. Not only can you choose the camera angle,
but you could build in a lower third, you could put in a graphic, you could put in a
green screen effect… you can do all kinds of things in the preview, getting it ready
to go to air and then you hit the button to take that to air. Or again, if you're switching by yourself,
then it's a lot easier to just hit the button once and have it switch. Finally you'll see in the lower right corner
that we can see all of our audio. This is all the inputs coming in on all the
cameras. And if we look over at the Audio tab in the
software, we'll see the same thing there. If I activate one of the audio channels, we're
going to see that represented up here as well. So, for example let's take the audio from
channel 4 ON, and we see that that has now lit up. If I turn that off and turn on 3, we'll see
3 on and so on. So, we're always seeing exactly what's happening
with our audio down here. In fact, if we turn on any of the Fairlight
audio controls, we're gonna get a representation of that in here as well. Let's go over to the software and for example
on my main mic here, I may open this up and want to enable some dynamics; an Expander
or Gate or anything like that and now if we look back at the screen here, we can see an
indicator that that has been activated. Next, let's talk about live streaming, but
before we can talk about how to set up live streaming, we have to talk about how to get
the ATEM Mini Pro onto your network. Fortunately, it's really easy; there's an
Ethernet port on the back of the ATEM mini, just plug that into your local network. So, any open space on your switch and you're
basically on. It'll default to DHCP which means that essentially
once you plug it in, it's gonna find itself and show up in the software. It's really dead easy. Now, there are other ways to connect it. For example, you can take the Ethernet from
the ATEM Mini Pro and plug that into an Ethernet port on your computer and then using the Wi-Fi
on the computer or a cellular connection that you're tethering to, also stream. So, there's lots of different configurations,
but that's the kind of thing that you're gonna want to read the manual for. But let's take a look at how it is set up
in here. If I go to the ATEM Software Control and go
to the connection menu, you'll see in here that I can choose to search for a manual IP
address, so, if I have entered one manually, I can search for it here but look down here,
it just automatically finds the switches on my network; there's the ATEM Mini Pro and
my original ATEM Mini. Once that selected, just hit connect and it
connects, which of course we've already connected to it. Let's take a look at the streaming setup. From the Switcher tab, there's a new Live
Stream option under Output and we'll see right now it's set to OFF because I'm not yet streaming
and I can choose what platform I want to stream to; Facebook, Twitch or YouTube. Now, it is actually possible to stream to
any RTMP network. You have to modify the XML file and that's
not something I'm going to show in this video, but if it's something you do want to see,
let me know in the comments and I'll make another video about that. Built in though, it's really easy to get it
on to Twitch, Facebook or YouTube. I'm going to choose YouTube because that's
where I primarily go and the next option is which server; the Primary or the Secondary
server. If you're not familiar with streaming to YouTube,
you can choose to stream at any time to either primary or secondary server. The idea is and the intention is that you
would stream the same show from two totally independent networks to the primary and another
to the secondary. That way, if something happens to primary,
that means your internet connection, your streaming hardware or whatever — something
goes wrong — YouTube will automatically fall back to the secondary. So, here you choose which one you're going
to. You would start with the primary, but if you
already have a primary running elsewhere, then of course you'd set this to the secondary. I'll go ahead and set it to primary. And next you need to enter your key… but
where's the key come from? Well, this comes from YouTube itself. So, let's go over and create a new live show
for YouTube. Log into YouTube and then up here under the
Create Video or Post Menu, you'll see a Go Live option. There may be some restrictions on who can
go live… I think you have to have a certain number
of subscribers before you can… I honestly don't remember, but that's the
kind of thing that if you don't see a Go Live option here, then just Google it, you'll figure
it out. I click on Go Live and that'll take me to
the live streaming studio. Because I've live streamed before, it's offering
to create a new stream based off of the previous settings. I actually have no idea what you'd see if
you've never streamed before, I guess there's just a button that says New, but I'm gonna
dismiss this and we'll start from scratch. When I click Dismiss, it automatically opens
up a New Stream dialog. So, let's go ahead and call this "Test from
the ATEM Mini Pro" and I'm gonna leave this as a Private event to make sure that nobody
accidentally finds it. The difference being Public of course is fully
public and it's gonna be on your YouTube page; Unlisted means it's available for anybody
who has the address and Private means that only you can see it. So, I'm gonna leave it for private for now. Fill in your description, choose a category
if you like. You can choose to schedule this for later;
for a private event it doesn't actually matter but if you're doing a public show, then of
course you can schedule when that's going to actually go live. You can enable Monetization if that's available
to you, add a custom thumbnail and you do need to choose whether your show is made for
kids or not. That's all there is to it. Click Create Stream and that'll take you to
the streaming studio where at the moment you'll see "Connect streaming software to start preview",
a little spinning thing here telling you that it's waiting for data… and by the way, if
you set this up weeks in advance before your live show, that's fine. At this point, you can just close this out
and you're done. But when it's time to stream, come back here
and get the key. You'll see under the stream key data, you've
got your streaming URL which you actually don't need to enter because that's hard-coded
into the ATEM, but the stream key here is what you need. You can click the "eye" to reveal the key
if you want to but you don't actually have to. You can just click the copy button and copy
that to the clipboard. It is actually really important that that
key does not get out. You can't let anybody know what that key is. Now, you just saw my key for this show but
that's OK because this show will be deleted by the time you watch this. If someone else gets your key, they could
hijack your live show. So, it's super important that you don't show
it. That's copied to the clipboard, now I’ll
head back over to the ATEM software and simply drop that key into place. The next choice is my Streaming Quality; I
can choose streaming low, medium or high. And when you select one of the qualities,
you'll see the bitrate listed here, in this case 6.0Mb/s. This tells you a couple of things; first of
all, you need to make sure that you have enough bandwidth for that bitrate. In this case, if I'm going to stream high,
it's gonna take 6Mbit and you might see something different there, it's going to depend on what
your frame-rate and size is… I'm currently set to 1080p at 29.97. So, that is calculated at 6.0Mb/s. Now, I need to have at least 10Mbit, preferably
12 upload speed to be able to stream at that quality. So, run speed test and if you don't have that
much bandwidth, then you're gonna have to knock it back a bit. Don't be tempted if you look at your bandwidth
and you see “oh, I've got a 6Mb, I can stream at 6”, don't do it, it's not gonna work
out. You need overhead at minimum 50% more, but
it's better to have twice as much as you need for the actual stream. So, I'm gonna go head and leave it at 6Mbit
because I know I've got the bandwidth and then I'll click this box here, Display Status
that shows me the status of what's going on down here. At this point, I can start streaming by clicking
On Air here or I can do it on the hardware itself. So, let's go ahead and push the button… On Air. We'll see it shows "On Air" up here, it gives
me the current data rate, it shows me the cache info, and how long I've been live. The cache info is really important; the ATEM
will actually buffer frames so that if there's any kind of hiccup in the internet connection,
it doesn't just drop frames and not show the audience what you were supposed to show them,
it will actually hold off and then deliver that. Now, if you get a really bad connection or
your internet starts to stutter, that may drop in quality, you'll see this change from
OK to… well, something else, but as long as that says "OK", then you know you're good
to go. If you see it stuttering a lot, if you see
it constantly dropping below "OK", then that might be an indicator that you're trying to
stream too high of a bandwidth. All right, let's take a look and see what
this show actually looks like that is now on the air. Remember it's still a private show. I'll go back over to Chrome and we can see
right there, there it is, that I have a button here that says "GO LIVE". Now, this is really important… the fact
that over here it says that it's on-air doesn't actually tell me that I am actually streaming
live to the public. It is a two-step process; the ATEM Mini Pro
starts streaming to YouTube and then on YouTube, you go to that interface, you make sure that
everything is looking good and okay, and as long as you're happy, then you click the GO
LIVE button and that's what takes the show live to the air. So, let's go ahead and click it, and to preview
this, I'm gonna click the Share button, grab that URL there, I'll just copy that, open
a new tab and paste that in… and it'll take a couple of moments before everything catches
up and it starts and there we go. So, you can see there that we are currently
actively on the air, that's great. So, that's all it takes. It's really straightforward; just go in there
to choose your platform and it's basically the same thing for Twitch or Facebook, set
up your stream, grab the key, drop it in and hit GO, and that's all there is to it. It couldn't be any easier frankly. All right, now, let's talk about recording. That's another big feature in the ATEM Mini
Pro. You have the ability to record your program
out onto a little SSD drive. In fact, you can save it to any USB Drive
but a little SSD like this just makes it really easy. Let me just turn off the stream first. I'll go back to my live streaming dashboard
and click on "END STREAM". At that point, the stream has ended and don't
forget to stop streaming from the ATEM itself as well. We can do that in hardware, we'll just click
the OFF button and we are now off the air. If you click the off button here without stopping
the show, that's fine, YouTube will probably wait a moment to see if you come back and
then it'll end the show. Sometimes it just ends the show as soon as
the stream stops. It's a little bit finicky and unpredictable
that way… just try not to end the show prematurely. Make sure that you stop on both ends to be
safe. All right, back to recording. So, the idea behind recording your program
here is that you're creating a local file, a local copy of the same show that was streamed
online. This isn't something you absolutely have to
do; if you're streaming to YouTube, you are going to have a copy of that stream on YouTube,
you can re-download it from there. But of course you risk that the file that
you have in YouTube could have some corruption, could have some hiccups to it… if there's
anything that happened during your stream, then what YouTube recorded is of course what
it got. But here, by recording locally, you're getting
the pristine quality of the stream that you pushed out. Now, what you get on here is the same quality
of what you set in the live-streaming settings. If you streamed low quality, that's what you're
going to get here. This is literally saving the exact same file
that was pushed up to the Internet, that's important to know. Now, if we look in the recording settings,
we'll see under here that we have some record stream options and the first thing we'll see
is a file name. So, you can call it whatever you like. I've got it called PhotoJoseph and we see
the drive that is currently plugged in; Drive1 is listed as that drive there. It also shows me how much space is on the
drive or basically meaning how long I can record for. If you're gonna stream a really long show,
you can actually save your show over multiple hard drives. All you have to do is plug them in via a hub
and you'll be able to transition from one drive to the next. In fact, it even works if you piggyback one
drive on top of another. So, for example, I have this old USB Drive
here… I'm gonna go ahead and take this guy and just
plug this into the back of the ATEM Mini and then I'm going to take my SSD and plug - then
I'm going to take my SSD and plug this into this drive. Because it's a spinning platter drive, it's
going to take a moment to spin up, but as soon as it does, we're gonna see it show up
here and we're going to see both of the drives. There's Drive1, is the SSD… It's Drive1 because it has the most space,
so the software has automatically prioritized that and Drive2 is this USB Drive called Video
Archive 2. I could change the order if I wanted to. I could say no, no, go to Video Archive 2
first and then go to this one. I'll go ahead and click on Display Status
which shows the status down here. In this next option, "Record in all cameras"
isn't something that I can actually show you. This requires Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Cameras
which I don't have any of. But what this will do is automatically trigger
recording in the camera. So, in the memory in the camera itself, it'll
record the show. And what that means is it's recording that
camera angle. It's called an ISO and for Isolated Stream. So, let's say you have four Blackmagic Pocket
Cinema Cameras plugged into you're ATEM Mini Pro, when you're doing your live show, not
only do you have the program out, the edited version of your show, you can also have a
complete copy of every single camera individually that you can then re-edit as a multicam edit
later. It's a pretty powerful feature, unfortunately
it only works with the Blackmagic cameras but if you don't have Blackmagic cameras like
I don't, you can still walk around and push record on every one of your cameras. So, you're not completely out of the feature,
but if you do have those cameras, then this makes it easy. Back in the software, you'll see that we have
stop and record buttons and there's a Switch option as well. But once again, we can do all of this from
the ATEM hardware. I'll go and hit Record on here and that is
now recording the live show. We see the status up here on the Multiview
and at this point, as I start switching the show, cutting between them, we are now recording
that show. If I want to switch drives instead of waiting
for one to fill up, I just want to switch now for whatever reason, I can do that in
the software with the Switch button or I can do it on the hardware by pressing and holding
on the record button for a couple seconds and it will automatically switch over to the
other Drive. Now that it's recording on Drive2, I want
to stop recording and show you the file… But I'm going to do something that's a little
bit crazy; I'm going to yank the drive out of this other USB Drive, just unplug it. In fact, let's just do it from here. I'll just unplug the whole thing, just like
that. You should never do that! Why would you do something like that!? The way that these files are written, they're
actually closed, the file gets closed every couple of seconds or so, so that if you do
what I just did, yank it out, you don't lose the file, you still have that data. Let's take a look. I'll go ahead and take this little Drive,
because that's the one that I just switched to and we'll look at the last couple of seconds
before I yanked the plug. There's the show, PhotoJoseph… and remember
I was only recording for a few moments, but we see it. There's the program, looks like I had my iPad
on the screen and then it ends nice and cleanly. It's an incredible feature frankly. It's always possible that someone accidentally
rips out a Drive and usually that spells disaster, but in this case, you're totally safe… I think that's awesome! There's a couple other things I want to show;
you let's go to the Audio tab. And you may have noticed that this entire
time I've had my audio going into Mic input 1. My microphone, the wireless Lav that I'm wearing
right now is feeding into a Zoom F6 Recorder which is recording the show for the purposes
of this edit — the show that you're watching right now, but then from the Zoom F6, I have
a line out going into the back of the ATEM Mini Pro. Now, those of you who have watched the other
show or have used the ATEM Mini know that one of the limitations that is unfortunately
not addressed in this version of the software or hardware is there's no way to delay the
audio coming into the microphone input. The audio coming into the ATEM Mini Pro is
going to be out of sync with the video coming in if you don't delay it. The reason for that is all video that comes
out of a camera over HDMI is delayed. This is an inherent process of HDMI. Any camera that has HDMI has a delay. Some cameras have a little bit more than others,
but there's always a delay. So, the easiest way to keep your audio in
sync, and this is something we've talked about before, is to route your audio through the
camera. That way, your audio and video are perfectly
in sync and it makes it easy. But if you want to route your audio through
a mixing board or a recorder like I am here and then feed it into the mic input, you can
absolutely do that but you have to program in the delay externally, you can't do it in
software. Now, this is something I still have high hopes
that Blackmagic will implement. For all the features they pack into this thing,
I think it's something they could do… I don't know if technically it's not possible
and that's why they haven't, but fingers crossed, I'm gonna cross them all that they get this
in there. In the meantime, if you're gonna do it this
way, you have to do it in the hardware and the Zoom F6 fortunately has a audio delay
feature in it. So, I had to go in and go back and forth and
find the right amount and it turns out that delaying it by 6 frames on a 30 frames per
second timeline, works out perfectly. So, now the audio and the video are perfectly
in sync. But this is an important thing that you do
need to know if you're going to run your audio that way. Another thing that I want to talk about is
this right here, USB. For those of you that are familiar with the
ATEM Mini, you know that the easiest way to connect your ATEM Mini to your computer was
simply over USB. You didn't have to worry about Ethernet, you
didn’t have to worry about the network, it was just a direct connection and off you
went. You can still do that… I can still plug the ATEM Mini Pro into my
computer over USB and access the ATEM Mini Pro as a webcam in software like Skype or
FaceTime or Zoom meetings or GoToWebinar or whatever you like. However, if I have the ATEM Mini Pro plugged
in over USB, I no longer have the ability to record the program out. I can't record on the USB port while simultaneously
feeding the video into the computer over USB. It's one or the other. So, if you're gonna use this as a webcam,
then you do need to plug it in over USB. There's no way for the software; for Skype
or anything else to see the ATEM mini over the network, it has to come in over USB — or
you could take an HDMI program out and route that through a encoder but that's getting
a bit complicated. If you want to use this as a webcam, USB-C
is the way to go. If you then want a live stream your show,
you don't actually have to change anything; you can just go ahead and live stream without
changing any connections, but you do give up the ability to record onto a little drive
like this. So, if this is something you want to do, you're
gonna have to switch ports. It's not a big deal, it's just one cable to
plug and unplug, but if you are going to use the ATEM Mini Pro both as a webcam switcher
and as a live streaming device, that is something you're gonna have to swap out. So, that's about it… This device is remarkable. It has packed a huge amount of features into
it, I'm super impressed with what this is. I love the original ATEM Mini, I was crazy
excited about that… The thing that it was missing was the ability
to livestream, and you can still live stream with software, let's not forget that. You can use software like OBS or Wirecast
and stream. However, you have a better quality stream
when you go through hardware, you're not taxing your system and it is just a much better way
to go. Streaming with hardware is always my choice
and now the ATEM Mini Pro makes this super easy. If you want to know more about this hardware,
let me know in the comments below. I'm sure there's a lot of questions you'll
have, go ahead and drop them in there. And if I get the same question enough times,
I'll put it into another show, otherwise I'll do my best to answer those comments in there. Thanks a bunch for watching today and of course,
if you do decide to buy one, I would love it if you use my affiliate link down below. Helps keep the show running. Take care you guys and will see you next time. Bye bye. Oh! Good, you're still here. I realized as I shut everything down that
I completely forgot one part of this… I wanted to tell you about this whole crazy
setup here and what's going on to feed all these inputs into the ATEM Mini Pro, because
I know people are going to be interested. So, let me just give you a little tour. This is a GH5 on a Nocticron lens and it is
feeding into a Ninja V recorder and then out of the recorder is looping into a Hollyland
wireless transmitter; HDMI wireless transmitter. The receiver for that is right here… this
is the new 400 model. That receiver is then plugged into the ATEM
Mini Pro. So, this way I've got my camera pretty far
away from me, don't have to run a cable across the room and I'm recording the show on there
to ProRes on the Ninja V. Next camera is this one here. That is an S1H plugged into a Ninja V as well,
recording once again in ProRes in 4K. Out of the Ninja V is plugged into another
wireless transmitter. So, that is another Hollyland that I've got
here, that's the 300 model, and that is transmitting to there. Obviously at this proximity, I could have
just run a cable but it's one of those 'you got it, let's use it'. Camera three is up here; this is a GH5S with
a 25mm F1.4 lens, obviously pointing straight down and giving me a top-down view of the
mixer here. This is kind of a fun way to set this up and
I'll actually flip that image over in post so it doesn't look upside down to you in camera. This is also feeding into a Shogun that's
over here on the side recording into ProRes as well. And then finally I have the actual multi-view
that I'm recording. So, out of the ATEM Mini Pro is HDMI into
this monitor for Multiview. But between the Mini and the monitor is another
Ninja, and you see it right here. That is recording, once again, this entire
thing at its full resolution… which is only 1080p. So, it's not the same resolution as everything
else but this gives me a nice clean version of this for you guys to see. I could have plugged anything into here, a
laptop or whatever, but I chose to put those three cameras in and then the fourth input
is my iPad that's sitting there with the USB-C to HDMI adapter and then HDMI plugged into
here, and that's giving me just, well, whatever's on the iPad. It's just a way for me to have something else
playing on there and of course it can be absolutely anything. setup, I told you about the Zoom microphone
(audio interface) and I think that's about it. All right, get out of here. See you next time.
