Black Box Dye Color Correction

[Music] hey everyone today I'm gonna be showing you one of the largest transformations I've ever done I'm gonna be taking my friends a black hair that's been colored for a few years now and she's haven't colored her hair in about six months or so and we're gonna attempt to remove it and start the transformation into blond so stay tuned and check it out hey everyone its Marella thanks so much for stopping by my channel this is just a friendly reminder that these educational videos are intended for licensed professionals only if you are a client or consumer please use these videos as inspiration and see a licensed professional for all your hair needs all techniques formulas products and suggestions come with over 20 years of professional experience and education I do not recommend trying any of these techniques on yourself or on anyone unless you are a licensed professional stylist or student looking to expand your knowledge don't forget to follow me on Instagram for more inspiration formulas tips videos and more now let's get right into this video before I start any major color correction makeover I always always do a strand test so that's what exactly you're seeing here on my friends hair so for her strand test I mixed up a matrix light master one to two with 20 volume and processor room temperature for only 10 minutes and this is telling me literally the full story her strand test accurately tells me what her hair is willing to do and I was able to give her a quote timing and expectation of worst and best outcome but with all color Corrections there's always gonna be challenges so there needs to be lots of variables and lots of transparency when you are giving a consultation to any of your clients all right so here's her hair history she's had lots of black box hair dye and some professional salon dye as well and she hasn't colored her hair in about six months and you can really tell this from the strand test because on the new growth it's much lighter versus those mids and ends which show a lot more of the orange and red tones her hair is also really dense really coarse and curly so I know that I'm gonna have to call her hair a little bit more aggressively on those ends specifically because she has a lot of those orange and red tones and because of the dense coarseness so using foil to get the best lightening possible for her hair is gonna be key I also know that she has a superior home regimen so she's gonna be giving her hair lots of TLC which she already has she's been prepping her hair for a major service like this so I know she's done everything she needed to do possible at home prior to the service and she's gonna continue to take care of her hair at home for her blonde hair journey all right so here's the game plan I'm gonna go in with an indirect dye color remover to help eliminate any of the indirect dyes that are in her hair without it affecting her virgin hair so I'm not worried about the indirect dye color remover lifting her virgin hair after we hopefully are successful with one shot of removing most of the black hair dye I'm gonna go in with some baby lights and t'see lights and a lot of them to get her hair as light as possible and then I'm also gonna make sure to do a lot of treatments in between each of the services so that way we can keep her hairs integrity as best as possible throughout this entire process and then finally we're gonna finish her up with the toner once I see how much we lift we can get with her hair and then finish her up with a haircut now for my clients first step I decided to go in with Rusk eliminate color corrector now the way it works is that it's going to remove any permanent oxidative hair color so basically you're in direct dyes and since it doesn't have ammonia peroxide bleach or even formaldehyde it's not going to affect the virgin hair the way I applied the Rusk eliminate color corrector is simply combine step 1 and step 2 into an applicator bottle and made sure to just shake it up really good so that way it was nice and creamy consistency and then I just simply started in the back sections and worked my way up now she didn't have any color in her root areas per se I did apply the color corrector about an inch away or so from her regrowth and then once I surely saturated the product to make sure that it was evenly distributed I further went in with a comb and just ran the comb through each section this products actually really really easy to apply and the viscosity is amazing so that's kind of the reason why I love it too but I went in the first time onto dry hair and then from there I just popped her under the dryer for about 20 minutes now you can use this product with or without heats totally up to you but because I was dealing with black hair dye I decided that the dryer and heat was necessary once she was done processing under the dryer for 20 minutes I rinsed her hair really really well and then used a clarifying shampoo now this is a really critical step so you want to make sure that you use step three from eliminate color corrector so step three is essentially like using a developer such as ten volume developer and you want to process this product for ten minutes to activate any remaining color molecules left in the hair so basically if the hair darkens right before your eyes you need to repeat steps one and two and three all over again so that basically means that there's still oxidative color there's still indirect dyes in the hair and if it darkens you're gonna be left it was still a dark color now if the hair doesn't darken you're just going to continue to rinse it out and then shampoo one last time and then you can proceed how you normally would with any color service now sometimes working with black hair dye it can be a little difficult to see if the product even did anything so what you see here is I have 100% dried my models hair and I took her outside just to get a little bit of a further look and you can definitely see that it has lightened up a little bit and we have or a slightly brown light reflection definitely some level two there and still lots of work to do now I have a much better canvas to start with versus when she first came in so even though the Rusk color corrector only eliminated maybe a level or two off of her hair that's still a level or two that I don't have to have my product or Lightner eat through which is great so I decided to work my way again in the back and then work right on up starting with her hairline so she has a mixture of baby lights and slices and t'see lights so lots of different types of techniques I want this to look as natural as possible and then also highlight as much of her hair as possible now you can also see she has lots and lots of hair tons of density and it's thick and coarse like I mentioned in the beginning of the video so using foil is imperative if I were to go in and do an open-air application I'm probably only gonna get a level or two of lift with her hair type so the foil is essential to make sure that she's gonna get the best blinding effect for this first session one key thing to note here is that my baby lights and slices and even my TZ lights are literally micro slices and micro baby lights and micro TZ lights so I wanted to take the thinnest sections possible when doing her application so I had a better saturation of my Lightner and I'm gonna make the lightener do again the best job that I could possibly do the best lightening I can possibly do so the thinner the sections especially with this hair type the better lift you're gonna get now as far as how I applied the lightener to her hair you can see that I'm giving her a little bit of a Rudi effect so I'm really applying that Lightner a few inches away from that regrowth area and I'm also using a board so the board was kind of key in this application I typically don't use boards with foiling but I felt the need that to use a board for her hair because again it's a real thiking course and lots of density so I wanted to make sure I had a background to really help push that product into the hair and the board really helped me especially to with her length that she had so I went through and applied the lightener just again a few inches away from that regrowth area and pressed my product into her hair and then finally stroking up the product towards the regrowth so that way I had more of a Rudy effect without having to go through and actually shadow root her so I really wanted to help avoid that since she was totally wanting to have a little bit of that rudiness look and not so much of that blondie growing out of her hairline so this was a perfect technique for that and that's kind of why all so that I have these really thin sections of baby lights slices and then once I get towards the top you'll see that I have incorporated the TZ lights as well so it was a combination of those three types of foiling techniques and Lightner application that was essential to get her as light as possible and also with the finish that she wanted now right after this foil I'm going to go ahead and speed things up because I figure you guys kind of get the idea so you're probably wondering what her formula is so I used matrix light master and what I mixed up was two different formulas so I mixed up a 30 volume and a 20 volume so the 20 volume I used more towards the top of her her foil and then the third evolve for those mids and ends because again when we saw what happened right after the Rusk color corrector she still had some pretty dark ends as well as a strand test kind of told us that as well so I wanted to use a little bit higher of a developer to help aid in that lifter that I needed now as far as her foil application you can see I've just taken her hair and split it right down the center in the back and I'm kind of working at a slight diagonal I'm just really trying to focus on getting as much coverage in the back as possible so there's really no pattern say but I really just want to get in as many foils as possible so if your client has more of a wider area to work with then by all means you know split that back section up into three columns but for me on my model I was able to just split it into two especially with her wanting more of that Rudy effect I was able to do that now what you'll also notice is that as I'm working more towards you know the center and working my way towards top her hair is getting longer and longer so I did use some from our foils but not the pre-cut ones it comes in a roll and so that really helped me in making this whole process a lot more quicker so I was able to pre-cut these really long foils and also using the board it just kind of all ran as smoothly as possible even though this was a total of ten hour of a project to work with I can only imagine if I was sitting there with pre-cut foils how much longer it would have taken me now what you see here is I'm working more towards the crown area which my direction of my foil placement has changed into more a horizontal versus diagonal sections and I'm also finishing it up with some t'see lights which is going to give me an even further Rudie effect much more so than what I was creating on the underside so I'm just gonna finish up this top section with my horizontal T Z lights and baby lights and then I'm gonna work towards the front doing the same exact thing that I did in the back now I just wanted to give you a quick sneak peek to the front now on the sides you can see they are all diagonal back foil placement still with the same baby lights and micro slices and T Z lights towards the top and what you can see here on the very front top section it's more of a triangular piece that I left for last and I started out with some baby lights towards the hairline and then worked my way on back with some TZ lights the end result here the end result here is that I want to create a much more Rudy effect so it gives her a little bit less meat so even though she wants to be blonde eventually we still want to incorporate her natural hair color so she doesn't have to come into the salon all of the time so this is really a great way to give her that rudiness and give her that less maintenance but still give her that blonde that she's really wanting now once the foils were done processing now I'm just gonna wait and let her foils process now this was definitely took over a course of time throughout the day so I had already removed some of the foils in the back so now I'm just waiting for the front and winds to process and this is just literally a waiting game and watching the foils and when I see that I've pushed her hair to as far as possible that it can go which is typically max I will leave Lightner in the hair anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour depending on the integrity of the hair of course so she has pretty healthy hair so I was able to push it pretty far I'm going to now go ahead and let it process and then I will show you the mid results that we got so what you see here is her hair didn't quite lift as light as we wanted to on those ends so you see it fade right from that level 9 right into a level 7 8 orange because that black box dye just would not budge so now that I'm in this situation where the ends are a little darker than the top I need to formulate a little differently this go-around so what I'm going to use is the darkest level that we lifted to which is a level 7 so this is gonna give me the maximum control and it's gonna give me a very seamless looking color because if I go in with a lighter toner we're gonna end up with some really warm ends still and it's gonna look exactly like this going from light into a dark shade and that's not what we want we want it to look as even as possible so therefore I'm gonna go in with matrix color sink 7 n + 7 ash so equal parts and I'm gonna blend that right into straight 7 so the seven ash is going to help control a lot of those orange tones that you've seen on the ends so the reason why I picked a 7n with the 7a for the top is so that way I'm still incorporating some of those primary colors and still that natural warmth that we see in natural hair it's still with a little bit of ash for some control so I don't quite need that on the ends because we have plenty of warmth to work with but I just wanted to explain that so just in case you wanted to know why I incorporated the end instead of just using straight 7a across the board I just think that it would definitely look too ashy on that top portion and then give me that control to finish on the ends so therefore that's what I'm adding in the end shade now you'll notice that I'm putting on the demi-permanent shade on to dry hair the reason I am applying on to dry hair it's that way I get maximum saturation and maximum control and maximum deposit of my final shade you can totally apply demi-permanent on to damp hair but in this scenario I did dry her hair 100% dry so that way again I can get that maximum control because I'm gonna definitely need it especially on those ends my client had a jet off in a hurry but as you can see we took her from a black box hair day - really pretty brunette shade and it was a day-and-a-half process so you guys have to trust the process it was a lot a lot of steps involved and a lot a lot of patience and we were really aiming to get her as blonde as possible today which you know we got her to level seven so going from a level one to a seven in one step actually wasn't too too bad but we're looking forward to her hair journey and getting her gradually lighter in the safest way possible and I'm really happy with the results because we had basically kept her integrity of her hair it's a really great condition and it's a really nice beautiful natural looking shade so great foundation shade to start with and I can't wait to continue bonding her so I really hope you liked this video and if you did give it a thumbs up subscribe I'm gonna give you all of the rest of the formula details down below ask me any questions you like and hope to see you guys next time

Channel: Mirella Manelli

Views: 149,479

Rating: 4.9101124 out of 5

Keywords: hair color, hair color correction, hair class, hair education, hair tutorial, how to hair dye, black to blonde hair, brunette hair, black hair color, bronde hair color, babylights, highlights, matrix, kenra, rebel femme salon, mirella manelli, strand test hair, hair trends 2019, fall hair trends

Id: 2wnmxEieoyQ

Length: 17min 51sec (1071 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 24 2019