Big Lathe Restoration - Takisawa 14 X 30

hey I'm Christopher making everything and today we got a new lathe in the shop this is a taka Sawa TSL 800 and we're gonna put it back into service let's get started alright so a little background I picked this thing up at an auction got it in New Jersey put it on this pallet and then had the guys at the auction put it in my truck and waste 2,600 pounds it was very very sketchy then getting it back here I don't have a forklift so I dropped it off at a friend shop with his forklift left it there and then use the flatbed to pull it onto a flatbed with a pallet jack drop it off here drag it inside now it's inside its got some surface rust it's got some issues so I'm gonna be taking it apart kind of cleaning over I saw it run once I just plugged it in we can see it run now and what's nice is if you see it run now then at least I know it runs when I put it back together I know it's gonna run again so do a little test run then we'll start taking it apart [Music] so after seeing it run a little bit and messing around with it I decided I would start with the compound and the cross slide so this machine came out of a functioning shop so I'm not super worried about its kind of base functions but it's got a self centering four jaw Chuck on it that I want to get off so I can not only clean it but swap it out for a self centering three jaw Chuck now this is an a one to five spindle nose which I wouldn't call it a rare spindle nose but it's not as common as you know like a D style work so instead of Chuck just like falling the bar that I put in there called it so in order to get that Chuck off I had to loosen those bolts on the back side of the face plate and then loosen the bolts from the face plate into the spindle nose now that spindle nose has a taper on it and a bolt pattern that matches the new Chuck that I bought so getting that off just gives me access to the actual spindle I can clean it up and continue with the rest of the machine I took off all the panels all the name plates and luckily this machine all the name plates were intact and all the information was still readable on them a lot of times with some of these older machines this machine in particular was made in 1980 it's hard to rely on those panels to have all the change gear information that you might need so it's nice to know that these are all in good shape and the rest of these little labels are on with little rivets and I just used this scraper chisel to pop off the top of the rivets now this machine has a bunch of paint on it a couple different layers some of its latex on its oil there's a ton of bondo on the machine tool and it was originally cast so stripping it was a very labor-intensive process there was probably another way to do it I could have sandblasted I could've maybe used a needle scaler but since so much of the paint just flaked right off I just used the scraper a bunch and then switched over to this little right angle dye grinder and I used some of the fared abrasives scotch brite style pads to strip off some of the heavy areas after that I switched over to this little five-inch orbital grinder and did some sanding the biggest thing with this is I wanted to keep the dust to a minimum this is in sort of my machine shop side of my shop and I really didn't want to have dust all over everything some of my motorcycles are in here and also I didn't know what kind of paint they use there's probably some ledges and continuing around with the disassembly pulling off more labels pulling off the stop bar you can see how something just paint literally just shears right off that stuff was latex paint on top of the base and the only really stuck in some areas so once I shared all kind of the big pieces I went back over with the sander and continued like that there were a couple areas that have really really quick blobs of paint like on that that goes down and there were just some service rocks on the way luckily the ways were pretty well oiled before I put it away left on there and I just used some wd-40 and some scotch bag to clean off the lead screw and easily and then went over to take the knob and all the components off of the compound in the cross slide it had some little plates and you can see I just enabled I'm kind of handling them down lightly and then hit them with the scraper and a little bit of scotch brite pad and some wd-40 and degreaser and it cleans all that off and really makes everything look like it's brand new again this thing was painted hastily by whoever had it before me so it's pretty easy to undo a lot of those crimes and I'm using the stainless steel wire wheel from failed abrasives to do a lot of it cleanup on this as well and it's got it's not a knotted wire wheel a loose wire wheel so it's nice to as you you know give it some more rpms with the die grinder those pieces of wire fan out you can really get into a lot of the nooks and crannies something about this machine were roll pins on almost all the handles and a lot of this stuff is difficult to get off so I'm doing a lot of tapping and wedging I don't want to break anything and I'm really trying my best to take everything off of the machine gently so that I don't do any damage obviously the machine works and it's 100% intact I don't want to finish it up and realize that I broke a pane or broke one of these spindles that one of the handles goes on and the paint on here was really loose so I just kind of went over it with the grinder moving back down to the tip and apana stuff in there and the actual chip pan itself was filled with this heavy heavy cutting grease so I went in there and I you know got most of it out with paper towels and vacuum and degreaser was really disgusting and took like an hour it stunk going back over the other side just a little more sanding and just kind of smooth everything out I knew I wasn't really gonna get this thing down to bare metal so my goal was to just have a smoother finish with the sander so that when I painted it all the book the same going back with my little roll lock and surface finishing pads it really made the blending of this paint nice it worked out really well and using that little right angle tie grinder was awesome once I was done stripping it I sprayed it all down with degreaser just to get some of that dust off and then I moved over into the bed these are these little drill mounted brushes are great for cleaning up machinery because that heavy grease you know these old machines have grease that's sat there for years if you D grease them and then use the drill that you know rotational motion I found really clears up a lot of that grease I got these on Amazon so I'll put a link in the description you can check them out they work awesome and then pulling out all these levers it was just a little roll pin I wound up having to make sort of a custom punch because the roll pin was so long that I had to really push it further than my normal punches wanted to go in order to get them out but luckily there was only one broken roll pin that I had to replace and the rest of everything came off really easily now this switch is interesting this is the forward and reverse switch and it's really simple it's a two-sided push-button switch on the backside of a steel cam so it's a mechanical switch on this you know large metal lever with a spring in it and then this little electrical component on the backside so taking that apart will just allow me to clean it up and make it nice moving into the chip pan I just kind of brushed it with the wire brush got sort of the loose stuff out of there and cleaned it up as best I could alright so at this point I've spent hours just trying to clean this thing up and there's still grease on it there's still chip paint there's probably five layers of paint on this machine and some of it was latex that like sheared right off as soon as I hit it with that little scraper and some of it is primer and base and it's definitely been a bunch of colors I can't even really tell what the original color was there's orange there's like some yellow there's green gray white another gray anyway I'm gonna stop with the stripping and cleaning and gonna start masking and painting just because I'm never gonna get this thing down to like the same level everywhere I would literally have to take it outside and probably sandblast it and you know that I'd have to mask off all the ways it's possible but considering that I can't get this back outside by myself I'm gonna leave it where it is mask it off paint it see where we wind up and then maybe go back and do a little bit more so let's get some tape so masking off this machine was really just to protect the ways and the knobs really not a big deal I used some of the higher quality 3m masking tape just because this machine still had a little bit of grease on it so this stuff sticks better than the sort of cheap you know kind of unbranded stuff and I wanted to make sure that I didn't get too much paint on the lead screw now the beauty of painting a machine that's been totally greased up and oiled in its lifetime is that most of the parts that need oil the paint's never even going to stick to and then if you do get a little bit of paint on there it usually pops right off and doesn't in here but I wanted to make sure I kept the knobs covered and protected so that I wouldn't go crazy trying to strip all that paint down now for the paint on this I'm using the rust-oleum clean metal primer to start and what's nice about it is it's a white primer and this machine is gonna be painted white when it's done and originally I thought to just leave this primer as the final coat but it's a little too flat and it holds a lot of fingerprints and dirt so after I prime it I'll move up to a gloss white which will kind of just allow me to clean the Machine a little bit better and now I thought you know the best way to do this would have been to spray it but I really didn't want to mask everything else in my shop off and get all that vapor in the air so I thought a brush would be a good base coat kind of application I could really get into all the nooks and crannies paint the back of the machine paint the chip pan and really get all the textures kind of blended out with a nice heavy brush and I'm really just kind of slathering the paint on there and giving it a lot of time between coats I wound up putting three coats of primer on and giving it you know day to dry in between all those coats so that it would really hardened up you know I didn't want it to just chip off as soon as I spray it with a little bit of degreaser you can see you know some of these areas are still even a little bit dirty because I just couldn't get into every nook and cranny to get every speck of grease off the machine the other nice thing about using the brush for this wall it doesn't get a great surface finish it allows me to get inside all the little areas behind the lead screw in the feed screw now while that paint was drying I went over to start working on the tail stock the tail stock on this machine is heavy it's gotta weigh 35 40 pounds and it just had tons of paint on it so many different layers I feel like this thing might even have more paint than the rest of the machine so I took it outside what I like to do a lot of the stripping along with the compound in the cross slide and I used just a degreaser and that wire wheel compared to strip all that stuff off I like the degreaser kind of as just a liquid base that you know help loosen up the rust and any of the grease and dirt that might be on there and it also keeps your wire wheel from swirling around a lot of grease if you ever tried a wire wheel something that's got a lot of grease and oil on it sometimes the wire wheel has a velocity to sort of just swirl the stuff around so the degreaser helps clean everything up and actually makes the wire wheeling process go a lot faster and then moving back over to those rowlock discs it helped me just sort of blend out some of the areas that had some pitting and obviously I didn't touch any of the contact areas or the ways I left all that stuff alone so that I wouldn't affect the accuracy of the machine I'm really just doing cosmetic cleanups and making sure that everything looks nice and isn't going to continue to rust and corrode I also took the excess paint off of the large logos that say taka Sawa and oil and clean those up so that they can eventually be painted cleaned up some of the other plates and just made sure that everything was nicely tuned I also worked on all the individual knobs just to try to keep those clean Matt a lot of residual paint on them as well which is kind of annoying and eventually I wind up hitting it on the wire wheel just to make my life a little easier they were hard to hold and also grind at the same time while I was outside I threw some black spray paint on those tags and then I moved over onto the actual tail stock while that paint was drying you can see how much paint is coming off of this thing I started with a small wire wheel and then moved up to a bigger one just to make my life a little bit easier and go a little bit faster and this paint basically vaporized as soon as I hit it with the wire wheel now I'm using a variable speed grinder here which is recommended by it fared for those wire wheels and it keeps the little wire strands from flying out and hitting you if you ever use the wire wheel on a full speed grinder you usually can find the little strains in your shirt for a couple days so using this on a nice low speed either on the big grinder or on the little die grinder it really helped keep everything down it also kept the dust from having so much more velocity flying all around I like to do this kind of stuff outside you can see how much dust is getting picked up then I grab the air compressor hose and blow off whatever was kind of remaining so that I can clean it off with some degreaser and some wd-40 wants them all done and they'll be ready for more pain [Music] while I was outside I also worked on all of the access and motor panels I didn't go too crazy on these I really just wanted to get the surfaces prepped for paint and I had to peel off a couple of these adhesive labels this one was in pretty bad shape Orange which I didn't find in bringing the tailstock inside I did a lot of masking on this as well there was a couple of oil ports that I wanted to make sure I didn't paint over so I just put some tape on there and caught him out with a little knife and made it so that no paint would get on there and also I didn't want to affect any paint on the crank that moves the tailstock in and out so I masked off all that stuff and I hit it with the same clean metal primer using a brush to get inside all the nooks and crannies now moving over to the information plates now these things had some overspray on them from whoever had painted the machine so I was pretty careful and I used a very light surface finishing pad and this industrial degreaser just loosen up that paint and then just go over it lightly so that I wouldn't remove any information and clean them up and these things brightened up really well I was really happy with the way they came out and a lot of that overspray that might have been over some of the information came right off moving back over to the machine I used like I said some glossy white rust-oleum paint and I just went over that primer once it had fully dried this time using the roller and it turned out really nice and a nice way to finish up these logo place is just with the edge of the sandpaper after they were painted and you can see that bright cast aluminum really shines through it makes these things look sweet getting those knobs finished up I went over and this is one of these nylon finishing wheels and this is compared as well I'll throw a link in the description for this and I like these because they don't throw the wires and they also do a really good job stripping off paint and a really nice finish I'm starting to take off some of this masking so I can start putting the machine back together a little bit I'm just getting the compound back on there getting some of my knobs in place so one of the things I wanted to do to this machine was add a dro and that was always my intention then I got it so this dro I purchased on eBay was about 150 bucks shipped for the whole kit and if you're not familiar with the Dro it's a digital readout that will tell me exactly where the X&Y of this machine are at any given moment using these slides now the way that this is installed is different for every machine but on this one it was pretty straightforward I located the the rail and I drilled and tapped the cross slide and I use those parallels as spacers to keep it up off the actual bed itself now I'm tapping all this stuff with quarter-twenty screws and I'm using this tat paste that the guys over at tap pace were kind enough to send by and it's pretty cool it works really good and it's nice because it's kicks to the end of the drill so I'm using these little stainless screws how to customize them obviously to make them fit the screws that the Dro came with were metric and I didn't have the right size tap so screwing this rail into place and then you screw the little sensor to a stationary part so that it can stay put while the rail moves around it or vice versa in my case I did a lot of testing to make sure that this would work this was the first time I'd ever install the Dro so I just used some clamps and made sure that I was getting you know no binding or anything there wasn't gonna be any reduction in the travel I wanted to make sure that I didn't reduce the capabilities of the machine by adding this feature so I measured out and used a plate of aluminum here to mount the sensor and this is 5/8 thick aluminum which is nice it's nice and rigid and it shouldn't get any effect from vibration if I'm making heavy cuts or anything with the machine the nice thing about doing this with aluminum too is it's just so much easier to work with and doing it with steel so back over in my metal shop I marked it out with a caliper and then cut it up on the Porta band I used my broad back Iron Works to buy seventy-two grinder and a 1-2-3 block to square it up just as a guide to make sure that everything was nice and square and given a nice consistent surface finish and then I drilled my mounting holes to screw it down into the compound of the machine and I used quarter-twenty for almost all this just because it was so convenient and I just drilled and tapped making sure I didn't go too deep you can see my little flag on there keep myself from over drilling and hitting any other ways and just making sure that my mount was going to work then I went ahead and drill two holes in the piece of aluminum to mount the sensors to it and this side of the Dro will be complete once it was all bolted up I'm able to test it I get really nice travel out of it I don't feel any resistance which is great add one more hole to tap and then this is done now moving to the bed travel on this thing and I'm gonna kind of walk through the way that I mounted this but realized afterwards that I mounted it wrong so you can see that the yellow part of that rail is where the sensor goes in and it's basically two rubber gaskets and it's supposed to keep chips and cooling out now I have that rubber sticking straight out the back which should protect it but there's obviously still an option for chips or coolant or junk to get in there and what I realized later was I really should have rotated that 90 degrees I guess like clockwise if you're looking at the head of the lathe so that that yellow rubber gasket would be the bottom of the rail so after I did all this and I made this bracket and I mounted everything up I wound up going back making a new bracket off-camera and spinning that rail so that the rubber and the sensor mount were facing down and they would keep from ever getting anything in them the last thing to do was to just mount the computer and this was really the only spot that was flat on the back of the machine for me to mount I made sure I didn't drill through the head either so no oil would get out but you know turns out that it's a little bit too low so I'll probably go back later and put an extension bar on this just basically bolt a piece of plate back there straight up because right now where the computer sits it's kind of right behind the chuck and if you have a big part in there it's gonna be hard to get to so I'll wind up doing some so I found the manual for this machine and this is the oil that's supposed to go in it it's mobile the lock Vela kite how would you say this Vala site mobile Vala site oil number six its spindle oil it's a good kind of universal spindle oil for machines just sort of dump but you just sort of dump it in there you know just no rhyme or reason to it at all after I put this oil in the head I realized that there are a couple small leaks but I've got some got some methods I think I can fix it with I also filled the gearbox oil as well which has the sort of sponge in there and you just kind of fill it let it soak in and make sure that that sponge is saturated the magic of video editing so it took us a couple hours to get the masking off and then it was time to put these face plates back on everything went back on nice and I made sure to write my name and the date on the inside of that one because who knows somebody else might get this machine in you know 15 20 30 years and it'll say 20 20 on it people will be able to realize that some idiot painted over all the layers of paint and didn't really do the best job but you know it's fine the thing is going to work for me now one of the things I want to do to this machine is you'll notice that when I'm done putting the switches back on there's an empty hole in the bottom so that would be for a coolant pump and I found out later that there's actually the switch for the coolant pump is buried inside the machine and there are leads for it so I'd like to buy a coolant pump and get that wired up and try to fix that switch and get it put back on there and I love the way that these emblems look now that they're all cleaned up on the white background it just looks really really sharp and I was missing some screws for the side cover so I'll have to replace some of those but I still have all the knobs which is great I didn't have to replace any but one and now getting the new chuck that I bought on then this is a why use a three jaw and it's a direct a one to five mount so that means I'll get a little bit more bed length because it's not sticking so far away from the spindle it's a really really nice 8 inch Chuck and I'm happy that I got it now for all the labels that were riveted on and I'm sure someone's gonna have a comment about this I decided not to go ahead and drill out all the rivets and try and redo it and I just used pin VHB tape to put the layers back on I degreased any of the areas where there was paint and I made sure that the label stuck really well and at the end of the day I think they're actually gonna work out a little bit better and I don't have to try to do the rivets now the last component of this that I hadn't worked on was the bed stop so there's this stop bar on the bottom and this lathe has an interesting automatic stop feature so if you're running the feed screw you can set the stop point so that you don't crash the machine or don't drill or cut too deep and this thing was just totally conked up I couldn't get anything off without hammering the stop bars off themselves and I thought you know what better way to clean this up than to actually use the machine itself so I took the bar and it took all the components off and then chuck set up in the lathe and running out of slow speed with some surface finishing pads and some degreaser I was able to really clean all the rust off of it which will make the action of sliding these stops around so much better and so much smoother you can see right away how quickly that cleaned up and got all the gunk and surface rust off of there just at this low speed I think I was running at 250 rpms holding on to that pad really really tight and using that degreaser to kind of loosen up any other gunk that was on there and this thing has a little bit of a bend to it you can see how it's not running totally true but I don't really see any reason to try and straighten it because all it does is holds these little stop points and it's a four position setup so there's actually a detent and four positions which is why there's that bolt on there so once it's put back on in theory you could set up a couple of stop points at different sections and then as you do different processes on the machine you can rotate this thing through its four positions and get four different stop points that you could reliably you know redo if that was something that worked for your job and I had just said it so that if I ever did run the machine automatically I put it in a position where it would never be able to crash against the head no matter where I had the compound here you can kind of see how that works when that little tab touches it it stops it but it doesn't stop you from going over it if the auto feed is not engaged cool little feature [Music] and I just wanted to add a little bit of gription over here to the break what's nice about this break is it's a mechanical and an electrical break so when you push it it actually turns the contactor off so that your machine stops and it also stops the spindle itself really really quickly now the last knob that I needed here was on the forward and reverse switch and somebody had clearly broken this off and just ground off this screw post there should have been a little round ball on there so I drilled this out just by hand and my eye with a number seven bit and then I tapped it with a quarter twenty I put a quarter twenty bolt in there and then I'll cut it off and thread a quarter twenty round plastic ball knob on to it and give me something to hold on to when I'm changing the direction and turning the machine on and off all right so moving this machine off the pallet was super tricky it was not easy at all and it was not enjoyable so the picture I just popped up on the screen is from the manual and it shows the two lifting points now this machine weighs about 2600 pounds and those are one-inch steel bars and I'm using these straps to lift the machine in what I hope would be a square manner but turns out the machine did not lift square at all it's lifting horribly camera rolling and you're trying to pick up a machine like this scary enough as it is especially being there by myself so I you know thought about it and decided that if I rerigged it and I grabbed it from the bed that that might be sort of the right the right way to do it so I took out one of the lifting bars from the point and I put one of my straps through the cast webbing of the bed and I moved the tailstock out and I'm eventually I'm gonna take the tailstock off and I move the carriage down I'm just kind of limit the weight you can see when I picked it up it picked up way way better just by moving that strap now I'm surprised that the manual kind of guided me in the wrong direction like that but knowing how heavy the head on this machine is and that the manual I had might have maybe been for a smaller machine so maybe that was why I put it down on my pallet jack and tried to figure out how I was gonna actually get it over into its position because it's obviously too long I was gonna make some sort of a frame and I realized I could use my motorcycle dolly to grab the front end of this machine so put the motorcycle dolly on there that's rated for about 1,500 pounds and I my pal Jack on the other side just made sure everything's positioned right and I force this thing into place this is why you're supposed to move things out of the way before you move like the giant unbelievably heavy machine alone but I'm just so impatient that I just need it to be in place so I'm just forcing it so once I sort of had it close to the wall now came the really dangerous part and I want to kind of preface this with just saying you know like I'm not a rigger I just I move stuff a lot and I've moved a lot of heavy equipment by myself and with my friends so I've learned a thing or two along the way but what I'm about to do was not the right way to move this I should have used the toe jack or I should have had another person there so essentially I used the Johnson bar to get this thing up off of my little motorcycle lift which was not fun getting the motorcycle lift out with the cane and then I'm gonna bring in a car jack so I have one side of the machine down on the ground and I need to get the heavy side of the machine off the pallet jack so I bring in this car jack and I stick it under the bottom and I use a block of wood and I actually lift the machine using the pallet jack and then set it down on the block of wood and then gently pull out the pallet jack hoping that the machine stays balanced while I lower the car jack and let the machine fall down into place now the machine is high enough where it could tip which is so so dangerous and I was here alone I probably wouldn't been able to get to my phone to call for help but luckily and thanks it worked out never move a machine like this haha it's on the ground how scary oh my god how's the scariest machine move I've ever done that was really that was really tricky don't ever do that so with the machine in place I can just use a pry bar to force it over and that's kind of fun about these machines is that no matter how heavy they are if you just use a steel bar and some leverage you can usually slide them pretty well so I'm able to just sort of force this thing into place just with this short you know like thirty inch steel bar now getting the tailstock on and finally seeing what this machine will look like when it's all done I put my quick change tool post on this is a phase two quick change tool post and I threw on my Chuck in the tailstock and this is a tenth indicator from federal and I'm using just a big end mill as kind of my hardened rod to see how my run-out was and as you saw it was pretty good about 2/10 of a thousand now the machines in place I can't help but test it out it's wired up it's working the Dro is working so I grabbed a piece of aluminum stock that I had and threw it in the Chuck and I'm just gonna make a little project on it and you know sort of experiment with some heavier cuts and see how this thing does now I'm sure my tool geometry and the way it's hitting the material is not that great I'm not trained at all in operating a lathe I just used the ones that I've had so I'm still learning about surface finish and feeds and speeds and all that but what's nice about this machine is that he's so heavy even though it's not bolted down it's just sitting on the floor this thing did not budge at all no matter how hard I push the cutter into it which was really cool and it just it runs so smooth it's like nearly silent I love having the spindle break which was something I've never had before and a little trick here just to kind of reorient my part back in the jaws I used some parallels and wedge them back there and then I'm actually just gonna use the compound to get the angle that I want which was just a random angle that I guessed just by eye to make the bottom of what will be a little pop [Music] so a fun little project kind of way to test the full rpm and gave it a finishing pass and the whole chamfer on that edge overall I'm super happy with the way this thing came out it was a lot of work and a ton of time but I think it was worth it can't wait to use this machine more all right that about does it for this one um this was a long process I did probably like 75% of what I could have done to really bring this thing back to 100% you know I couldn't take in the character part I could have gone into the gearbox but I am really happy with the way that he came out I wasn't sure about the white at first but I did want to kind of hold it true to what I had seen on the takasago website and I'm really happy with the way it looks I love it the machine is super smooth it functions great I'm really happy that I put the Dro on and I'm glad I took the time to do that the run out is so minimal and just making that little top worked out really well I'm just super excited to have a machine like this in my shop it's been something I've wanted you know my old lathe was alright but this thing is a real precision machine it doesn't move it doesn't vibrate I can really get some work done with it and I have a lot of projects already in mind to use this machine for so I hope you stay tuned for those if you have any questions leave them down below in the comments don't forget to like this video if you enjoyed it and share with friends if you want to see what I'm doing on a day to day basis behind the scenes here in the shop you can follow me here at make everything shop on Instagram I post every day on my stories I posted a ton of stuff as I was doing this project a lot of behind the scenes things and you know questions and answers and stuff like that kind of happens live if you follow me along on Instagram if you like this project and you want to see more stuff with this don't forget to subscribe to my channel we got a lot of stuff coming up this year and a lot of great projects that I'll use this a bunch of other cool stuff so I hope you enjoyed it again I'm Chris debt for making everything and I hope to see you on the next video thanks

Channel: Make Everything

Views: 224,962

Rating: 4.6906905 out of 5

Keywords: make, maker, lathe, restoration, large lathe, metal lathe, takisawa, metal shop, machine shop, rigging, antique, vintage lathe, rusty lathe, diy, tool restoration, machinist, how to use a metal lathe, DRO, how to install a DRO, lathe DRO, how to make, do it yourself, moving heavy tools, 3 jaw chuck

Id: Gee0b2F0vtk

Length: 40min 12sec (2412 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 07 2020