Disassembly of the Bridgeport Table, Saddle, and Knee

greetings everybody this is very formation W machine repair and we're going to do another video for you today today's video we're going to be disassembling series 1 Bridgeport the table the saddle and the knee now this particular Bridgeport is a 1981 definitely worn it's going to be getting a complete rebuild here so this one has an old AcuRite mill mate digital readout system which is still completely operational so we're gonna do our best to get the scales off very carefully and see if we can salvage this thing but this readout is over 30 years old as it sets right now so let us get started I'm gonna kind of show you the tools for the most part we're gonna be eating right here good allen wrenches deadblow regular hammer couple pry bar several King Tony screwdrivers we got our wrenches got 3/8 trenches for the lube system some cutters in case we got to cut some cables and I tend to use a impact a little bit for disassembly only I never use it to reassemble ok let's just start it first thing we are going to be doing is removing the x-axis scale now this scale had been replaced once upon a time and you can see this has got the red clip in it so this is not an original scale there will be another red clip on it when we buy time we get done ok now in this case one of the red Clips got left in there the other one it's not obviously you probably won't have any if you have this type of this is an accurate a and C 150 scale by the way which was actually the generation newer than the original so you go up and see how they kind of work in there a lot of times you just get them started and then I'll take it loose and then I'll get it in the rest of the way but this will keep the reader head solid to the scale cereza loose you see how that's loose now I'm just a slight down this if you have to slow like this just be very careful what happened is a lot of times you'll hit an obstruction of some sort so we're going to come down here to where there aren't any obstructions go back in and what there is is there's a lip up under here that I'm trying to capture is what we're doing here there we go now we have the scale and here this bracket is broken over the years a listen never been removed just broke the state protocol racket and that's why you take it out if you noticed all the chunk that fell out of there you really shouldn't leave these in there there we go now we're in proper alignment so this thing will be held in place now just got some little zip ties holding the cable together and we want to get that free on the back of the box the skin we're talking in a key right here so you may not have it a curate may not have readout on it so they want to fast forward but the accurate scales have two small screws all the metal boxes okay steals are out - slide that out of the way the scale normally these are quarter-twenty bolts that these are held in with yeah the brats are holding this together here we also can see this is an old scale and the way they mounted it they left space a lot of chips down in there so this wallet may be reading now is not looking good for the future all right we're now have this scale off we are now ready to remove the table what I do is I will crank the table down to where the table is hanging over the right side as far as it will go you [Music] don't have to go all the way but you want to be down pretty far because you're gonna be removing you screw a nut from this from the left-hand side okay we have this out again I will use an impact for disassembly I will never use one for reassembly so on the right side take off the nut the handle I like to go ahead and disassemble this as I'm going but this will actually slide off in one piece you have your dial lock your dial and your dial hold all in one piece and cap five-sixteenths Allen the end cap on the right side she does not have any dial is just one bearing all right now we'll go do the left side same thing [Music] sometimes see this one's very stiff to get off that's what you're going to have your dead blow hammer for this is pretty normal to have one of our three [Music] now this is on the left side well you know there's two bearings in here and a dial nut holder this is where your load is so this goes together first left side first and you do the right when you're putting it back together again [Music] flashlights down in here there should be two screw holes so you notice there's a screw holes no screw in it that was got removed at some point no one ever bothered to put it in that there's a small one that would come out first now you have the big head there should we remove it first I use a pretty long screwdriver [Music] and sometimes this turns right out sometimes it does not this one's coming right out without a problem that the bolt does Falls it's no big deal okay now we can remove the screws you can remove the screw nut in one piece good fly it out sometimes you have to tap but there you go you see there's your nut this what's a two-piece nut if you look at how thick your threads here right on the end now let's go down to the middle this isn't a horribly worn screw beak and definitely see it is here in the middle there it's definitely somewhere in this screw so we will put this aside okay now we're going to loosen or get completely take it out quite yet the Gib screw again is right here I want to back it out I'm pretty good I'm out pretty much to where I'm flush with the edge and all I'm doing is making it so we can move this table by hand without a lot of problem okay okay I'm going to do it by hand slide the table this way now if you were unloading to this end it would be okay but as you can see I don't have room down below to this end we always unload that slide it over here and then I'm going to bring my pal it up and we're gonna slide it off okay when you get your pallet or die cart or whatever you're going to use take your data we'll slide it now you guys still have your give in so when you get back to the middle we're gonna take our give out the rest of the way gives out you can clearly see plenty of wear on that thing so this machine is definitely due for a rebuild [Music] now [Music] and the fun part you okay tables off now let's look at our ways on our saddle as you can see plenty of where originally this thing had flaking the whole way the front it's gone completely the back it's gone on the outside edges so this thing not only has worn on each edge it also was wearing towards the front there is the screw that we took out of the the feed nut bracket this is what they were using as a locking screw this is not correct so this will just get thrown away okay now we are ready to do the Y first thing we do is take the lock out which again this isn't the correct handle this is just something they put in there take the lock out it's easy if you want it to be so but this lock obviously isn't gonna be replaced because it's got a little bend in it since it should have just on threaded and basically this got bit because someone decided that it really needed to be extra extra tight but you probably did not need to be that tight now when you get that out make sure you get your PIN out there's a pin everywhere there's a lock handle there is a pin okay now we are going to do is as we remove the scale on the X there's also scale here on the Y and it's got three holes and every time this is an old scale guess what the three holes are plugged up so you need some sort of a little pick or something get your holes cleaned out cuz you want to free this scale up alright these things are sometimes very very very gummed up but fortunately they don't have to come super loose just if a couple turns while we are what it is get to scale or else lie it on its own like I said you got to get these three loose once they're loose you should be able to just kind of wiggle your scale in there a little bit just so what we can do now as I mentioned this system thirty five years old well this scale is also 35 years old so this is different than the other one that said that Lorentz lips you notice here this plate that has screws in it this means this is an old mini scale style so what you're going to need to do is in perfect world you would line this up if you have the actual wiving a brackets you take this off and use them but they don't exist anymore so basically what we're gonna do is be very careful while we disassemble this so we're going to just take the cap off of the tweeter head I'm going to explain to you why the odds of this working when we're done are very slim even if you take all the precautions okay take your cover off if you're lucky you still have a piece of cardboard in here but if you look inside of here my flashlight out you can see some really small fine wires well in order to get to the bolts holding this on you've got to take all this list these those wires right there got to remember this is 35 years old or 30 years old so the odds that we're gonna get this all done intact they're not real great but we're going to try there too round head cap screws that are holding this on okay once you have these out but I always would do what I do tuck it back in take my cover I'll put in a couple of the screws back in all that's doing is holding everything is assembled as I possibly can once I have those out take my scale and my everything in one piece try to hold this as much as I can in position take it out hold it up like just kind of hold it with one hand like this then once you get that you gotta take some electrical tape [Music] we then that feel like your goal we just use electrical here you're just gonna wrap it around as much as you can to hold this thing you want to hold this reader head as steady as you can okay now the why and you can see it's pink home pretty good shape so there's a shot we could get it back together and be working if it doesn't work and you can look at this see how the lift seal over 30 years is completely gone on one side this would all need to be replaced cleaned up it's a lot to do in here a little chance to get get it work correctly okay now we're back the mechanical again so what you gonna do is you're going to crank your table out your saddle out to the far outside [Music] your machine has Sirk's then you don't have any of these the blue blind vignette but we will address those in a minute we are now going to take the same thing we did on the end caps here if they can cap off here [Music] so 3/4 inch now you're going to notice something you're not probably not see this machine had accordion way covers on it and this particular set took the top two bolts out and what with hex head [Music] sixteen it is top two out these were the old original gore type way covers which are nice covers they're also insanely expensive and we actually sell a accordion set for right around $300 that you do not need any of these extra holes for this head bolts at extra spacers all kinds of fun stuff in it yeah sometimes if these endcaps are pinned in you're gonna have a little more work getting them out none of these even had pin holes but sometimes these things were originally pinned in so you're gonna have to really work to get them off as you can see the y-axis is just like the left side it's got two bearings and a bearing brackets again that's to capture it so you don't get in play back and forth just as in the other ones shiner Lydon here let's see what they left us now that is original see the small screw head and the large screw has you take the small one out first and then we will take out the larger one sometimes it comes out easy sometimes not so easy kind of glad it's not coming out I'm going to show you a little trick here now that you have all this off you can take your chip guards and slide them forward and look right there's your script so you can grab it on both sides if you need to if you want to now in our case we're replacing them I can take a pry bar and get into one of the teeth and Craig pop it out like that [Music] okay you can see how that dry caked in what was happening was the lube was getting very very like almost a grease turning into a grease in there so it's a very nice butt and again you can see how thick that is there this was really worn how thin that is in the middle okay we now have the screw out we're going take the covers off the the way wiper covers and again these have got this extra plate on here if you don't have the Gordian seal just have the plate then again here's the problem when you have these accordion covers like this all the extra chips you develop there's your wafer plate and you see the two-way wafers in here for a long long time it's actually recommended you replace these once a year I've never met anyone yet who does that the back of this one because it had a scale on it they actually put two of the stops and what these were to do is make sure your scale didn't hit do the same thing with the back of a wiper cover you [Music] okay same thing we'll take the cover off now this one obviously you can't take it all the way off you just slide it backwards for now Piper's off okay we are going to you recall our scale we got to remove our bracket here [Music] all right we are now ready to remove the yoke or the technical term the feeding up bracket right here anyone do is there's a Lube line right here will top it off real quick that came off real easy this is the lube line that goes down to the y-axis pop the screw out with the bracket whenever you do this if you have these just kind of keep track of where you keep all the little parts or else you will be calling us to order extra parts would you put it back together again these also sometimes are pinned this one it's not I will tell you if it is pinned knock the pins out same thing with the end caps you are not going to reuse them again when you go back together again [Music] that loose it is lift turn it 90 degrees go up and you notice I got my line still hooked up just give it a little tug comes right out now make sure when you do this you still see the keyway in here and in there because if those are out then you're gonna have to replace that okay at this point what I do is I release all the rest of the news lines and the reason I do that is because when you take this off you can then just flip it over and take all this off because if you're sending these in to us I don't want to any of this loop system on here because that's just charging extra work for me and extra money for you what I strongly suggest is while you have this apart is you go through your Lube lines and probably put in new meters especially if you are getting your waves redone [Music] and we do stock every one of those parts [Music] everything it's free it is 3/8 inch wrench because they have one thing to do over here you'll notice the lube line coming from the saddle down to the tank we need to get that off of there now so on the left side it's crib give then look too bad some even wear so that's good [Music] okay now at this point this handle this can come up can come off I see a couple rags of some sort is what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna slide it off I'm gonna tip it up and set it on that back edge on top of the knee okay now we're gonna remove our lock [Music] and remove the pin you see the pen a lot intent on the saddle much longer much larger usually two screws and there they are holding the the with the meter walk thank you very much well the end of meter you walk and then there's one that's holding our bracket sometimes I have to take the bracket off to get to this one sometimes it comes off again like I said I strongly suggest at this point you tear all this apart put in new oil meters blows lines out make sure when you get your ways back everything is good together we will make sure all the lines are cleared when we're done with what we're doing metering block off and you'll notice sometimes depending on the style of your block maybe a couple of spacers which these two fell out gotta keep an eye for him underneath the ball putting the bowl that goes down in here so all you're doing is keeping this up just a tiny okay one hand hold on to your saddle the other hand there you go three lines to the back five lines to the front the meters are all numbered so you can just be careful if they come out and replace them at the same number or if you would like you can just go with all with number ones it will work just okay we now the table and the saddle off when I'll be working on taking the neon this weighs 50 pounds or so [Music] okay you have you to chip cards they'll just literally lift right off [Music] kind of keep track of the directions they are you can't put them in the wrong direction then you'll lose travel basically the way I do it is one arm in the front they're pretty plush but and you're bevels obviously go down so [Music] first thing that right in here is a 3/4 inch nut now if you don't have an impact you may need your knee crank to hold on to this impact is one of the best things for this on the nut kind of hold here there you go comes right off here's the nut and then there's a washer [Music] next we're going to do is we're going to remove the elevating shaft and the reason we do that is because we're going to use that whole caliph this knee off of here we're now have the chip guards off you can now slide your back cover off we're going to before you take this off you want to make sure that the lock nut is loose [Music] [Music] there we go you want that to be loose because you wanna be able to get that off so once that's loose okay I take that basically that slides on it's just on a key there is nothing else holding it in so you should be able to take a pry bar or a couple pry bar sometimes sometimes these come out very easy sometimes they're very stiff okay once that's off unthread your lock nut take your dial off now you notice that all the other dials are two hundred thousands increments this style is only one hundred thousand so when you're putting it back together make sure this dial goes down here now it's got a dial holder we are going to remove it this is the newer style which is one piece here there's also a style that it has a dial holder like what's on the other on the X and y-axis okay so we've taken the three screws out and what we're gonna do is we're gonna take all this out in one piece so sometimes you can reach in there and just out like that it's gonna come out of one piece you've got bearing here make sure your bearing still good is the very in here make sure and honestly these are good most of the time so you can see a pretty good amount of wear on that and a lot of chips in there so that'll probably be getting replaced in our rebuild we now have the gear sitting in here usually you can just reach in and pull it up now you notice it's keyed there's also a key in here sometimes like he's really stiff so if it doesn't come out by hand keep track of it you want to make sure when you tear this thing apart you get the key out of there so you don't lose it okay we are now going to relieve remove the lube tank and get the loot lines free and this last chair so we'll just bracket since that's on the side real quick these are 3/8 inch we're going to take the loop line loop loose here got that free that will remove [Music] main reason we remove this is just two gifts we clean lines out and make sure all holes never flush when it's ready to go back there again there are different styles of these this is the pump that has the divider on the pump some of them come up and go into a four-way up here so it just really depends on what you have release lines screwdriver nine times out of ten those are just flattening screws in there same thing if this is you're taking this off I would suggest you remove the pump clean all this out real well just make sure when you get everything back your ways or you pump a good clean oil through this thing replace the filter yeah you can replace the filter in the bottom of it nothing worse and getting rebuilt ways back and putting them together and starting the pump dirty oil through again and make sure you're using wave oil and not motor around nasty way next step is our two-way wipers on each side these can either be flat heads or like these now you'll notice when we remove the left one forgave us so we have the Gibbs kurz we have everything loose now all exterior things off we're not going to remove those the knee lock okay the knee lock we will be popping the cover off here and this is just really a pop on cover sometimes they don't wanna come off but that's what species it's all pop one cover and then inside this hole there are two set screws which we need to remove them both the stop there's the actual screw in here some reason someone decided these needed to be super tight which they do not this is going into a notch all it's doing is stopping your handle for me pulled out but it's a dog point as you can see okay once you have those out eventually it'll get to where it'll come out okay to get out what you're gonna know this is the way this works is this is a cam and your lock is in here and so what's happening is it's loose and then when you came out over to lock it you're actually tightening up on the Gib that's the pin which will be pulling out after we pull the knee off now a lot of the knees have just like we had on the saddle on the table I'll have locks here this one's old enough it did not have that it only had that B crank block so our next step what we're going to do is we're going to actually move the [Music] so we'll be loosening all four of the the turret bolts No one last thing once you do notice there's a screw right here sometimes it's threaded sometimes it's an outlet this is a stop screw what this does is this prevents you from over traveling your knee up well obviously we're removing the knee so we are going to remove this screw lessens my finger tight so we have that out we are now going to remove our give long screwdriver comes in handy it's nice because the long straw drivers up above we're not banging your hand every time you try to go round on the way all right quick inspection of it definitely somewhere on that give look at that type and bottom where believer not ready to remove this so he will obviously clear all your tools grab strap and get the for truckin business right folks we're now going to remove the name now the way we do it leads a pork truck it's easier if you have two people so Virginia the videographer will be helping me on this but remember the shaft the elevating shaft that I said we take out so we put a strap through that's why we have a strap we put through here we have a book on our fork truck and we're going to I'm gonna come on hook it we're going to pick this thing up completely one last thing we're gonna we have to make sure you get out of here or else you're gonna lose this you're going to be buying another that's that walk through here and it's through there and sometimes are very hard to get out this is the law your knee lock again if you had one of the newer ones you'd also have either one more or two more right in here now every last thing is out of this this is how we would want it if you are shipping it to us completely stripped down throw it on pal the other components tie it down Stendhal to get all the gibs package them up and send it to us so this is basically how you remove the table saddle and need from a Bridgeport series one thank you very much for watching and please subscribe to our Channel

Channel: H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding

Views: 99,422

Keywords: bridgeport, milling machine, disassembly

Id: 95yVkqInRxc

Length: 41min 17sec (2477 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 15 2019