Vise Restoration - Broken Wilton Bullet

hey I'm Chris after making everything and today we're gonna bring this Wilton back to life check it out alright so the story with this thing I picked this thing up at a flea market in upstate New York I was walking around I just couldn't pass over it I think I paid 40 bucks for it it's been I think braised together and then it's got this redneck paint job I don't know if the swivel works they welded it to like this post and then it actually had a longer post that I cut off I think it was like stuck in the ground I don't know it's really crusty the first step is gonna be getting this paint off to see what's underneath looking like I'm probably gonna want to make a new jaws and handles for here but let's get started okay so starting out this project I decided to strip some of the chrome paint off it to kind of get an idea of what I was getting myself into the first thing I really wanted to do though was get the piece of steel that was welded to the base off so I got to with the angle grinder and I'm using a faired cut-off wheel here just zipping away some of that weld taking it inside and whacking it with a hammer and a chisel just to pull that off now once the vise was actually sitting flat on the bench I'm using a crimped cupped wire wheel to get some of this paint off and my last Vice restoration I got a lot of flack for not using a sand blaster I didn't use one on this either basically because I knew I was gonna be leaving this somewhat raw and I just really don't like the look that a sandblaster gives had a little bit of trouble getting these nuts off of the pivoting bolts but it was good to see that the base was fully intact and everything was gonna be functioning on that and just heading through it again with the grinder and stripping off whatever this chrome looking paint is now what I discovered once I started on this stripping was that of the actual vise body had been braised back together at some point I was happy to see that the bass was in good shape just really rusty so that was good but the brazing on the actual vise body is a little concerning it seemed pretty stable so I do wind up keeping it and really just heading through here and taking off the paint I'm using a variable speed grinder and this is something I learned actually from the text at faired when I was at spring make in Ohio this year a variable speed grinder makes all the difference when you're doing some stripping like this keeps the wires from shooting out everywhere with everything stripped off there for the most part I bring it inside and I start to actually disassemble the rest of the vise now there are three screws keeping this locking plate in and two of them were stripped so I went in there with the Dremel and a little cutoff wheel and here's a little trick you can actually cut in a slit when you have a stripped out screw and make it into basically a flathead screw and this will generally work on any type of screw or bolt as long as you can get a screw driver on there you can usually get it loose so this was pretty chewed up this little screw and I was still able to get it out which was nice you can see the head of the screw there now with that part off I decided to try and get the bail cap off the back now this cap retains the lead nut that holds the lead screw for the dynamic jaw now this thing had been welded together there was like some shoddy looking pins in there a bunch of goo so I just basically had to work it off get those pins out and figure out a way to get these two parts separated and then there was a bunch of spray-painted gross Ness in there that I had a scrape off which actually let me to see that the back section of his vise was in really good shape I was really surprised once I got the wire wheel on there and cleaned it up I thought this whole piece had actually been welding like gewd back together with with bad weld but it turned out to just be grease that had been spray-painted so I cleaned up the Belmont and the end of the lead nut and then I went to work actually pulling the jaws off so this jaw one of the screws came right out the other one was just totally seized in there I tried it with an impact couldn't get it off so I just beat it off with a hammer this broke the screw inside the jaw which was a little bit of a pain I wound up having to drill it out but you'll see as this restoration goes forward that I wind up having a read rill andreat app these jaws anyway so I did a little work getting that screw out just for the sake of pulling it out which was not that easy but once I got that one out I was able to work on the fixed jaw so the fixed jaw of this vise was really the the culprit what I didn't notice when I started was that the actual jaw ledge had been broken off and miss jaw had been braised on so there were no screws or Hardware holding it in just a braised joint and the lack of a Ledge underneath it would make it so that if you ever hammered on this vise this jaw would probably pop off so first I was gonna drill out the braids but it was kind of skipping around on my drill bit so I decided just to beat it off with a hammer and it actually popped off really easily but unfortunately that exposed how bad this vise really was the entire jaw was totally chewed up and I realized at this point it was gonna need a lot of rebuilding to make it work again I took the pivoting pan off the bottom of the vise because I was sick of seeing it rock on the table and then I came up with a plan to add a new jalle edge to this fixed section of the vise I moved over to my Bridgeport milling machine and devised a way to clamp this vise down to the bed vertically and I'm gonna switch out this to flute and mill for a for flute carbide end mill and this is a half inch end mill that I'm gonna wind up using I'm using 1/2 inch thick mild steel it's half by one is actually the dimension of the piece and I decided if I milled in a slot in the vise body itself I could use it as sort of a mortise and tenon sort of operation and slide the half inch piece of material in there and then weld it in using the MIG welder and a torch so milling the cast-iron itself was super easy cast iron like turns to dust when you mill it actually with carbide and I just made this slot slightly oversized and about a quarter of an inch deep on the jaw side once I had milled the slot I milled the actual material itself so I had a nice square to square mating surface I wanted this to be super clean so I mill the section of it up just sort of squaring off the factory rounded edge that you get when you buy hot rolled material like this now instead of just doing a cast iron weld I decided to use a mechanical fastener as well that was just something that I had looked up online and learned about and I spoke to my friend Matt and he recommended it as well so I drilled in some holes and I'm going to be tapping the vise body with 8 32 screws so that I have both a mechanical element and a welded element of this repair now I've never welded cast iron before I'm not really that confident in it so I figured I know tapping and screwing in material I know that it's strong I know that it works I probably could have gotten away with just doing this mechanical fastener method but I really also wanted to rebuild the vise itself so that it looked fully restored when I was done with it I started out by tapping the center screw because I couldn't really get a clamp on it and then from there I tapped the other ones using the center screw as the clamp to hold everything in position while I drilled the holes I made sure not to go through the back of the vise jaw with this I wanted to make sure that these were blind taps and that these screws wouldn't be visible from the backside I wasn't sure how welding this was gonna be so I didn't want to try and fill those gaps you can see how nicely it looked when I just screwed that in with the fasteners and then I went over and used the grinder to Vee out some of the cast iron and a little bit of a steel so that I could try and get a better weld now what I read online was that you need to preheat the cast iron so that the weld doesn't crack so I used my oxy acetylene torch all I had was a brazing tip but I got this thing pretty hot and I believe that it was hot enough for these welds to stick the first couple welds I did on the top side of the jaw were really just supposed to be taxed but they honestly turned out terrible after that I gave a little more time and into heating the bottom section of the vise I focused my heat a lot better and I really made sure that this thing got warm before I attacked and welded it in I want upsetting my machine down a little bit so my welds penetrated a little bit less but I figured with the extra heat I didn't need as much voltage so I continued to heat and weld and build up those layers also try to keep this thing hot so it wouldn't cool too rapidly giving it a little more heat a little more weld as I went and really trying to fill in that bottom of the jaw you know a big part of the Wilton vices is you know the shape of the jaw and I really wanted these to match when they were done so I made sure to take extra care and add material once the bottom was done I moved over to the top which was totally chewed up and really deteriorated and I basically just patched in little sections of weld up here I was trying to build up the top of the jaw with material and what was good about this was once I had added a layer of weld to the cast iron itself I was no longer welding to cast iron I was welding to basically mild steel because I was welding to my other MIG weld so once I built up that base it really was just patching in I gave this thing a couple of hours to cool down because it really was super hot and then I went at it with the grinder now the trickiest part of this area is underneath the neck so I used a poly fan wheel from faired that has the curved edge this is something that you can weld grind out the insides of your welds with it's really really helpful for shaping and stuff like that and that curved profile made it so that I could get in there and clean that up really nicely I use the cutoff wheel to get some of my weld out of that corner and just continue to cleaning things up once I got it pretty close I decided to cut off the sides of the ledge I had left it a little bit oversized just so I would have some room for error but at this point it looked really good so I cut those off and I took it back over to the milling machine now it's a little easier to clamp this in the mill now that it's not vertical I use some posts and some tea nuts to get this thing in place and I'm still using that half-inch carbide end mill and what I'm gonna do here is just square up this jaw so that I know what I'm working with and I can line things up moving forward I'm taking pretty light passes here I didn't want to take away too much material but I did want to make sure that everything was nice and square to the base and the end mill didn't really have any trouble milling the steel but it certainly likes milling the cast iron a lot better now I intentionally milled some of the heads of these screws off I didn't really want them to be that visible and the original screws and the original ledge would only have projected about a half an inch from the back step so I didn't want it to be sticking out too far at this point I had cut some brass material to make jaws and I just sort of sized them up onto there and realize that I actually needed to remiel both of the jaws so I devised a way to clamp the vise together without actually reassembling the whole thing using some of my hold downs and I decided that I would just mill both jaws simultaneously so they were perfectly square to one another and also the same height off of the ground so that when I put my jaws and everything would line up really well now with the way that I did this I didn't actually have to worry about squaring the vise to the table because whatever I did here was gonna be referencing off itself and I knew that these jobs were gonna be perfectly square to one another this also allowed me to mill the bottom of the shelf on both of these perfect so that they would look exactly identical when everything was done I'm really happy with this little method I think it worked out really well and it got me a vise that looked perfect even though it was cobbled together with all this weld material I had also added a little more material to the top of that jaw so that I would have more to mill off so that I could really square everything up nicely and I squared up the tops of the jaws as well so that it would all look nice when it was blended I hate it with a file just to sort of clean things up a little bit and essentially the milling on this vise was complete going back outside to the grinder I was able to knock off a little bit of that extra well then you can already see how much better that jaw looks and how much better the bottom of that jaw legs look now after all this time I did not notice a single crack in the weld even though it was on cast iron so I'm gonna go ahead and assume that my amateur cast iron well they're gonna hold up Plus since I left those fasteners in there I have those to hold things on as well I had to grind away a little bit of my ledge just so that it wouldn't protrude out past the new jaw and I'm really happy with the way it was coming out so far so I decide to continue moving forward and grind out the little anvil section on the back of the vise and move inside now I had marked out my jaws so that I could drill out the screw posts for the actual jaws themselves now the original vise had 5/16 bolts that were holding the jaws in place and with all the work that had been done to the jaw those were no good anymore so I decided to drill out whatever was in those and upsized them to a 3/8 thread so the 5/16 when you tap 3/8 you actually drill a 5/16 hole so I made sure everything was drilled out and then I made these little templates using dural are so that I could properly line up my brass jaws now the operations on these jaws is essentially the same as I move forward but I wound up having to make larger jaws and you'll see why after drilling these out with a 5/16 drill I tapped them with a 3/8 16 tap and it's funny with all the tapping equipment that I have if you've watched any of my other videos I have an entire station dedicating to tapping but I really wanted to make sure I didn't mess this up any since it was such a short thread I tapped all these by hand and made sure that all the taps were sufficient and really really clean nothing broke and the cast iron tapped really easily which was great so once I had tapped the dynamic jaw the this one had the best holes for me to tap because it was originally to be 5/16 those actually were preserved I just chased them for continuity now in the fixed jaw things were a little rougher because I essentially had to rebuild this jaw with all that weld material so I was drilling not only cast iron but a little bit of my MIG wire as well things were a little trickier and harder to get the holes the correct depth for the tap but luckily I was able to make it work with the bottoming tap that I had keep everything nice and clean and get all that material out of there with the air compressor now with that done and my Durrell are I'm able to kind of finally make these templates correct now Darrell R is a great material it's like a plastic but it's translucent it's really good for templating and transferring marks it's super resilient and you can use it over and over and over again not like paper or wax paper or anything so once I marked out the locations of those jaws I used the spotting drill to initialize those holes and I stepped up to a 3/8 drill bit and then was able to fit these jaws properly now what I realized was the jaws that I originally had made were about 1 inch in height but with the way that these larger 3/8 16 bolts were gonna work the 1 inch jaw height really wasn't appropriate for the size of that head so I went ahead and I rebuilt these jaws and made them about an inch and a quarter high which was much better in the long run so I was able to use that jaw as a template on this larger material because I had drilled the holes correctly it was easy to just take a transfer punch but first I had to break down the inch and a quarter material so I used a tried-and-true method that I learned from this old Tony karate chop works really well you just have to practice cleaning up these jaws with the vise with a file and then using a transfer punch to transfer the holes through just mark those holes off really nicely a transfer punch is something that you put in a hole and it has a little point at the exact center so you can transfer through holes and always make sure the line lines up really well you can see I was off a little tiny bit on my initial jaw so I was obviously off a little bit on this one an oblong off that hole a little bit which was really no big deal and then I could go ahead and move over to the other jaw and just get everything lined up for that as well using the same trick with the dural are transferring it through and using the same method to drill those holes with the spotting drill and all that with that done knowing that everything threaded up correctly I can just sort of clean them up with a file and move forward with the next operation now the three a 16 allen head bolts that I have were not fully threaded so here's a little trick to fully thread stuff like that I just took a die and I chased out those threads and you can see the difference here how the thread goes all the way up to the head versus the factory where there's like you know about 3/8 of an inch of material that's not threaded that was important to me because I wanted to make sure that these threads were gonna hit and I didn't want to damage the threads and the jaws by having them be too short now I took a half inch end mill and I went over to the mill and I basically made the counter bores for these Allen head screws now there's a bunch of ways that I could have located these I could have used a center I could have used the dead center I could have put it in the in the mill and I could have used that to get my exact center so that my kind of world would have been perfect I just cited these by I they were oversized enough that everything worked out really well and I'm using a two flute high speed steel end mill in this brass I set my depth stop and everything worked out really nicely you know I'm sort of just eyeballing a lot of the machining on this vise and I know I'm gonna get some hate for word in the comments but I like to do things my way and I like to learn as I go so this method worked really well for me and in the end the jaws came out super nice I cut down the bolts as needed and was able to get them thread it in I had to grind the heads of the bolts down just a little bit just because they were a little bit proud of the jaws I didn't want to counter bore them too deep because I wanted to make sure I left some material in those brass jaws before mounting them I was worried with the heads of these 3/8 bolts being so large I didn't want to wind up with just a little sliver of brass on the backside I also made sure to countersink a little bit inside the holes just to make sure everything sat nice and flush you can see how nicely this jaw sits against that new ledge that I made and I just take the file and make sure everything's nice and clear I didn't want the heads of these bolts to hit any of the material that I would ever clamp inside the jaws now was on to move to the base so the original base had nuts on top of these bolts that held the pivot in place now this is a swivel based vise so by tightening up those bolts you would actually lock this thing in place and I wanted to recreate the original sort of screw post that should have been on there now I drew something up on paper and I'm gonna be using one-inch steel bar stock and three-eighths inch steel bar stock to make these sort of movable screw posts now this will be a little more like it would have been from the factory someone clearly lost these and replace them with just regular nuts from the hardware store so back over on the lathe I take the one-inch steel and I just face off one side and I give it just a little bit of a soft chamfer so that it's nice and easy to hold and I grab a spotting drill drill out the center and then I drill it out to the correct size to tap these with a half thirteen tap I made sure that I marked my depth on this because I had made pretty specific parameters for how I wanted these things to sit I wanted about point zero six inches of thread there's about half an inch of threads sticking out of the vise and I wanted to make sure I had enough and nothing bottom down once I had pre drilled that hole I just did a little bit of marking and did a little bit more facing I also put a little bit of a mark on the actual piece itself so I knew where I wanted to cut it to now before I cut it I drilled my through hole because there was a lot easier to hold this larger piece of the vise and here you're gonna see a little trick about drilling into round material so I put in my Chuck and I put a spotting drill inside the Chuck so that I can get the initial hole started now when you're drilling into a round piece of material like this sometimes it's hard to find the center if you use a flat piece of material the Matisse of material if you press the spotting drill against it will sit perfectly level to the ground when it is perfectly on the high point of the round piece of bar stock so that's how I knew I was dead center of this material and I got my hole started with the spotting drill before moving up to a slightly oversized drill bit for 3/8 rod and again doing this operation before I cut off the bar stock made things a lot easier because I didn't have to try and clamp a tiny little piece and everything wound up being perfectly square and parallel after cutting it I went back over to the lathe and I faced off the top side and added a nice chamfer which will just look good in the end now all this stuff is gonna get heated and blackened so I didn't have to worry so much about the machined areas but I did clean things up with a file just to make sure they look nice now I essentially made two of the exact same part I'm only showing the building of one but here you can see how I'm using my tapping bench that I had built a couple months back to tap these now this is steel and this is a half thirteen tap so normally this would be kind of a pain to tap but you can see how easily this works using the tapping head I'm gonna play this at full speed so you can see how quickly I'm able to do this now the idea here is that the tapping head itself has a clutch in it so even if you bottom out you don't break the tap and that clicking you here is it breaking the chip now my vise definitely should have been more well secured to the bench but in the end it worked for both of these I didn't break a tap and I was really quickly and easily able to tap half thirteen in this steel with no problem at all now if both of these pieces done I just tested them out on the swivel base itself to make sure everything threaded in properly and they looked good and then it was on to make the actual tensioning bar and find a way to keep it retained inside these screw posts now I thought of a bunch of different ideas I was gonna get little threaded stainless steel balls from McMaster I was gonna make little plugs on the mill I was gonna use bolts and weld them but in the end I decided to go over to the torch and the post vise and actually upset the ends with them installed so that they could never be removed but also be a really clean and slim look thanks to Chris I'm a Philips metal works for just reaffirming the idea that this was the right way to go so I heated these up with the oxy acetylene torch and I pounded over one end to sort of peen it and give it a flat spot and I cut it off with the porter band put it through the screw post that I made got it back in the post vise heated it up and beat it down again this would essentially lock them in and almost kind of rip it over the ends and once they're cleaned up over on the grinder if they look perfect the other benefit to this was it allowed me to have a pretty long post that I can use as leverage to tighten this swivel down but also kept them really slim because that one inch screw post that I made is pretty close to the vise body itself and these things need to be pretty slim to avoid actually hitting the vise now over on my two by seventy two grinder I'm just cleaning up the edges and just trying to make these things look a little cleaner I didn't do the greatest job painting them over I'm definitely not a blacksmith and you know they didn't come out looking perfect but they came out looking nice enough for me then I actually went ahead and heated these up red-hot and let them cool now this is a trick that I learned from my friend Paul Pinto who is a blacksmith who you should subscribe to that when you have or ground material if you heat it up red-hot and let it cool it'll actually look as though it was forged that way it kind of blends in some of the machining marks so just heat these up and let them cool down and that allowed them to sort of blacken out and look really good and looked like they came out forged that way cleaning them up with the wire wheel doesn't reveal any of the marks but it does just sort of get a little bit of that scale and oxidation from the torch off of them now I can do another little test assembly and make sure these things work they did need a little bit of tweaking because they were hitting the vise body in one or two spots but just a little bit of time on the grinder and then I reheated them and everything worked out really well they get super tight and they totally locked the vise in place when you need it to now with all that done I was able to kind of do my final clean-up on the vise with the grinder there was still a little bit of weld and some junk that had stuck on there from when I welded it when the other person welded it and I just cleaned up everything with the grinder and prepared myself to do the finishing now on this piece I wanted to make sure that everything was properly wire wheeled there was a lot of paint and kind of nooks and crannies and a lot of rust you know I could have used the rust coated solution something to pull the rust off but I liked the wire wheel look I like the way that it leaves the material and in the end I was gonna win for a natural sort of patina in the end of this so getting everything prepped properly was important now I'm using a scope Nouveau black magic spray on patina here now this is a natural metal patina so this goes on raw metal that you've cleaned and degreased and it goes on in layers and what it does is it patinas the metal using a corrosive element it doesn't smell great it doesn't feel good on your skin but in the end it leaves a beautiful black finish that still allows you to see the characteristics of the raw metal beneath it and I really really like it you build it up in a couple of layers and rub it in you use water to neutralize it it's a really cool product I'll leave a link down in the description of where you can get it and I bought a bigger bottle of it just because it goes pretty far and the instructions say that once you're done with it you can actually use a torch to get rid of some of the water that you used to neutralize it and then you can go ahead and apply the next layer so for here I'm using some sculpt nouveau black wax and this stuff is gorgeous it goes on like a Johnston's paste wax but it does help darken the metal even further you leave it on you let it sit for about an hour and then you buff it off and it leaves a really nice protective black finish now this vise had been through a ton of work in its lifetime and I really wanted to preserve the look of that so I decided to not paint it and use this wax and patina so that you could highlight some of the braze joints that were done originally now the only other part that his vice was missing was the back cap for the bell nut on device itself so I found this piece of brass stock I had it was about 2 and 1/2 inches wide and I used a two and a quarter inch hole saw to burn out a little slug that I could then turn into a back cap on the lathe now you can easily use a hole saw like this without the centered drill you just have to make sure your setup is nice and rigid I didn't go close enough to the edge so I wound up having to go over to the bandsaw and cut this off but once it was done I had a nice little slug that I can use over on the lathe to make a hollow cap now this was a little tricky to make so it had to be a nice friction fit that would stay inside the back of the jaw but it also had to be hollowed out so that the lead screw wouldn't hit it when the vise was fully tightened with no material in it now I sort of eyeball this sizing I used my ghetto measuring method and I basically just creep on the cut until I get it correct and then I made that shoulder a little deeper I just wanted it to be a tight friction fit and I figured I could always sort of muscle it in because it is just brass when it was done I started out with a right hand cutter and actually went over to a boring bar and this gave me the best result to clear out this brass and this probably isn't the correct operation to do it but it worked really well for me with with the boring bar with a carbide insert and it got me all the way inside the shoulder and gave me plenty of clearance so I knew I wouldn't hit the lead screw and everything was tightened up now once I was sure that this thing was gonna fit I tapped it in just for reassurance made sure that my friction fit was gonna be good enough when I was all done and then I was able to bang that piece back out and work on the opposite side now you can see I'm using some spacers behind my material that's so that I could get it square to the back of the three jaw Chuck but also grab the firmly in the jaws themselves so it's a little trick you can use some space or material behind your material tighten it down and give you a little bit more room to work now working on the outside I took away a considerable amount of material and I tried to give it a bit of a domed look so sort of just by working the knobs on the lathe I moved my cutter in two directions domed it over and then use the file to clean it up then I actually just inserted it inside the bail nut and the bail nut is extremely out of round so I turned my lathe down really slow and just use the file to clean up the edge trying to keep a constant pressure on it once this thing was cleaned up on the lathe I was able to take it off and bring that and the jaws over to the belt grinder this is a broad back ironworks 2 by 72 this thing is unbelievable it's a horizontal and vertical grinder with a VFD super well built and I'm really happy to have it in my shop I'll throw a link down in the description of where you can check this thing out I'm using a scotch brite wheel on this and I can give it a ton of pressure and the VFD and the nice two horsepower motor they don't bog down at all I can use the slack belt feature on the top to round out the end of that little bail cap and then using the scotch brite belt you can see the nice smooth unified finish I get with that all done I decided to take the wire wheel and clean up some of those braze joints just so that you'd be able to see them that much and clean up a little bit of the lettering and the anvil I also decided to clean up the slide so there'd be a nice contrast between the black and steel and the bright steel slide with some scotch brite on the wire wheel as well heading over to the bench it was time for my final assembly I put the pivoting bolt back in the bottom and decided to grease up and lubricate the screw post with a little bit of grease now you can always get things tighter with a little bit of grease on there and everything seemed to fit together nicely I didn't do a tremendous amount of cleanup on the bottom of this base but once everything was locked in place I didn't want to add any grease down there because it is sort of a male/female fit on the bottom I wanted to lock in well put a little bit of grease on the jaw bolts and bolted those down and at the bail cap and the lead nut put in my two pins to keep that all retained and added some grease to the lead screw itself before threading that in with the dynamic jaw now something that I had actually forgot about at this point was the lock for the dynamic jaw there is a little locking watch that has to go in there and it uses 1032 screws those threads were pretty chunky so I chased them out with a tap and then used some nice new allen key 1032 screws that I had polished the ends on to keep that little washer retained now that allows the jaw to move in and out with the lead screw the last thing I had to do was insert the bail cap and knock that in with a block of wood and this thing is fully assembled I'm so pleased with the way this thing came out I finished it off with some clear Johnson's paste wax and decided that I needed to highlight the Wilton text with a little bit of gold paint marker I used a little gold oil-based paint marker to highlight that and sort of give a little bit more on those black and gold look the black patina looks great and you can see all the scars that this vise has developed in its lifetime you know it's been built used and rebuilt I'm really happy to just give it some new life super pleased with the way the cast iron wealth came out it looks like it was there the whole time a little more paste wax on top of this thing once the paint from the paint marker had dried and this restoration is finished all right that about does it for this video man that this thing was a ton of work going into it I knew it was gonna be a lot of work but I really didn't expect to be making so many parts for it that being said I learned a tremendous amount on this project and that's really why I enjoy restorations my love figuring out how to solve problems you know I had never welded cast iron before I'd never really milled jaws like this it was you know so much to learn when you do something totally unknown like this and I really enjoy getting to make things on the mill and laid that are gonna be immediately functional like jaws or these little screw posts - bail cap all that stuff super happy with the patina and overall just really excited to get this thing into use in my shop if you like this video please give it a thumbs up and share with friends also don't forget to subscribe to my channel for more videos like this I've got a couple other things that restore so if you're into this kind of stuff there'll be more stuff coming drop a comment down below and let me know what you want to see if you have any questions also please leave them down below I'd be happy to answer them and I'll put links in the description to some of the stuff that I use to make this project happen if you want to see what's going on behind the scenes in my shop follow me here on instagram at make everything shop i post a ton behind the scenes stuff and I always come answering questions and sharing kind of my projects mid-project and all that you can keep up on what's going on in the shop on a day-to-day basis again I really hope you enjoyed this video I am Chris DEP from making everything and I hope to see you on the next one thanks

Channel: Make Everything

Views: 402,053

Keywords: make, maker, restoration, restore, fix, salvage, wilton, bullet, wilton bullet, wilton vise, vise restoration, vise rescue, hand tool rescue, welding, weld cast iron, old tools, vintage tool, how to do it, how to restore a vise, how to weld cast iron, how to make brass jaws, milling, grinding, pferd, lincoln electric, blacken steel, how to blacken steel, lathe, lathe turning, milling machine, diy, tools, shop, metal shop, best vise restoration

Id: 1S-pJi5DRaM

Length: 37min 7sec (2227 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 06 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/[deleted]]

Hey, it's Chris!