Beginners guide to designing in Easel - 3018 PRO

ready to start designing and cutting on your desktop cnc machine then stick around because that's what we're doing in this episode [Music] hey everyone and welcome to another episode of james d designs if you're new to the channel and love cnc make sure you hit that subscribe button in the corner to get all the latest videos now just over a year ago i did a tutorial on how to get started with designing and cutting on your 3018 pro and even today it's still one of my most popular tutorials however easel changed some of the setup in their subscription which meant we couldn't use any of the pro features anymore basically made part of the tutorial obsolete so i did promise a lot of people we would go back do a new tutorial in easel for beginners in order to get started because it is a great piece of software to start with especially as most of it is free now there are two things i need to mention about using easel first it is a cloud-based piece of software and what that means is you're running it through your internet browser such as chrome or firefox now the good thing about that is you can use it almost anywhere without needing to install anything the bad thing about it is you do need a good internet connection in order to use it so if for any reason you have a bad internet connection in your workshop for example you can use it somewhere where you have a better internet connection such as your house export the g code and run that on your machine later which is actually exactly what we're going to be doing in this tutorial now the second thing i need to mention which i've kind of already touched on is that part of easel is paid for it has pro features which are a subscription service we're not going to be using any of those today we are purely focusing on the three things in this episode to get you started then in future episodes we'll look at some more advanced features but again still just using the free elements so let's move over to the pc start to take a look at easel get a design done and then get it exported over to our 3018 pro so the first thing you're going to want to do is head over to easel inventables.com and once you go to there you'll be presented with this screen to log in now if you're a new user obviously click create new account and set yourself an account up i'm a returning user so i'll quickly log in there and move on to the next screen after logging in you'll be presented with your home screen this just displays any recent projects that you've been working on and a few different options to adjust account settings and learning where you can view some official easel tutorials now the first thing we're going to do is come up to this green button in the top right hand corner and click new project so with everything loaded let's take a quick look at what's in front of us straight away now obviously we can see the screen is split into two halves on the left hand side we have our drawing area or our design area whatever you like to call it and on the right hand side we have our visualization now this will essentially mirror each other as we're designing over here on the left hand side it will put it into a 3d format that you can move about and rotate and see a live view on a piece of material that we have selected on the right hand side along the top we have a few menus such as file and edit where we can do things such as paste copy content and move things about with alignment which we'll come back to shortly on the left hand side we have a selection of tools and i'll go through these in more detail as we start designing down the bottom we have an option for different work pieces what this means is you can create multiple layouts in one design so you can click plus and it will create a new layout and then you can also click back onto them and delete them or duplicate them this is great if you're trying to create a more complex design and you want it all fitting on the same work area and then if we come back up to the top right hand side we can see we've got some measurements for the material we're working on the initial bit it's going to be using to cut this and then an extra menu with cut settings and again as we work through the project today we'll come back and go through these menus individually now the first thing we need to do is make sure that the setup is correct for our machine now easel is primarily designed for the x-carve machine so as whenever it loads if you come up to machine you will see that it says x-carve we just need to change this so we'll come down to all that grbl and in the model now you can select one that is relevant to your machine i just click all that because it's easier and it doesn't try to apply any settings that i don't want being applied so if i click other and then what i'm going to do is set the work area today i'm going to be working on my 3018 pro so i know the x dimensions are 300 millimeters by 180 millimeters if i just click off i should mention at that point as well if you're more familiar with working in inches there is a switch down in this bottom left hand corner to go between inches and millimeters so once we've set our work area up what we need to do next is take a look at the piece of material that we're using now as we updated those settings you will have seen this layout change slightly and what we have is this white grid area which is representing the material that we're about to be working on and then we have this dotted line inside which represents the actual work area of our machine so as we can see we just set our work area to 300 by 180 so that is that dotted line now what we need to do now is set the material dimensions that we'll be working with today so we'll come back up here to the top right hand corner now i just mentioned that easel is primarily designed for the x-carve so whenever you change any settings that it doesn't relate to the x-carve you will get this caution message most of the time you can just ignore it and click the x now when we click on this option here to set our material we'll be presented with a new window the first thing we can do is change some of the appearances of the wood or the material itself in this drop down menu you'll see various options for different acrylics different types of wood and even metal now i'm happy sticking with the birch plywood that it's already on because it's similar to the wood that i'll be using today next thing we need to do is set the dimensions of that piece of wood that we're going to be working on my piece of wood is 210 millimeters wide by 150 millimeters high and the thickness of it is 6.5 millimeters so now if i click back out of this menu we can see that all updated live is always changing the settings so now this looks more accurate to our work area and the size of the material that we'll be working on so we can see over here we've got 210 by 150 and then we can see the outline of the entire grid which is showing the work area that we'll be using today so now we have our work area and material all set up let's go ahead and take a look at the tools that we can work with within easel so i've come to the top left and expand this menu here we'll see a variety of shapes that we can draw with square circle triangle and star now what you can do is just simply click on them and it will place one in automatically you can use the anchor points on the corner to scale them up and down when you are scaling it will do it in uniform so it will adjust both sides together however if you click and hold shift down you can then adjust it in an uniform way to any size that you want now if you want to be more precise with the measurements of the shapes that you're editing when we insert something onto our work area this new menu will appear here on the right hand side and what we can do is come over to shape and here we can set specific measurements or specific positions for that shape itself and also the origin of that shape so for example if you wanted it to sit in the bottom left hand corner which is zero zero we can come up to here and type zero and zero and it will move down to that bottom left hand corner but if we type the set the origin to the center and reposition that again to zero zero as you'll see it moves it down so the center of the shape is on that zero zero position i'm gonna drag that back into the center for now now as i just mentioned as well we can also set specific sizes of the shapes themselves so for example we can put 80 millimeters by 80 millimeters you can also click the lock button to adjust the scale and proportion directly so if i click on that and then i take the width up to 90 millimeters you'll see it alters the second measurement at the same time we have an option for rotation and you can either manually type in the rotation that you want such as 45 degrees or you will notice this extra anchor point sticking out from the shape this allows you to do your rotation freehand so you can click on it and rotate the shape round as needed as you are doing it you will see that angle and rotation update live on the right hand menu the other thing we can do is add corner radiuses this is where it will round off the corner of the shape itself and you can do this on both the x and y axis now typically you'll usually want it to be a standard radius corner so you put the same measurement in for the x and y so for example i'll put five millimeters in for both of them and we can just see it started to round those corners if i take the value up a little bit higher maybe to 20 millimeters you'll see it's made the radius even bigger now if i take one of the settings down you'll see that it keeps the radius but it goes off to one side so if i take this down to five millimeters on the y axis and hit enter and what we can see there is it's kind of got a radius but then it squares off very sharp at the edge so it's not quite as smooth i'm just going to put that back to 20 millimeters for the time being and finally at the bottom we have this edit point now if i click on this what we can actually see is that shapers now has points appear around it and we can click on these individually to edit the points of this shape so once you click on them they will turn blue you can then drag those individual points around to reshape whatever it is that you're working on now because this is a radius you'll also see there's a second handle appear once we click on one of these points it just appears right there and this allows you to adjust the radius free form so as i pull this out and move it it's just pulling that curve about so again it's just another way that you can edit the shapes itself now you will have noticed that when i first created this shape it actually appeared on the cut menu and i'll come back to this shortly when we start doing our design but now i'm just going to delete this out though and we'll come down to the second tool in the menu which is the line tool now this is basically just a free form line tool where you can click in various points to create the shape that you're after now you can be as complex or as simple with this and once you come back to your original point it should snap and complete the line itself now i'm just going to delete that i'm going to do it again so i want to show you something that was happening as we were drawing that line so once you click on a line and start drawing you'll notice that in certain points the line goes red now whenever it goes red that means you're aligned with a particular axis so that is going directly along the x-axis and once i click and if i go up it remains red on the y-axis so it just means all your lines are remaining square to the grid itself now if i bring this across you'll see it goes back to blue and that just means it's not at a 90 degree angle in the same way that we just did on the preset shapes we can also click edit points and that will give us the option to start to move some of these points around now as we drew this it's all fairly sharp corners what we can do is come over to the curved option down here and as you'll see it's made that square corner into a curved option it's also giving us the two anchor points on either side to be able to adjust that curve now you can adjust the curve from both sides so you can give different shapes such as this the next tool down is the drill tool now when i click on this you'll see that it inserts this little symbol but what we can see over on the visualization is just a hole now if i rotate this visualization round and zoom in on it a little bit you'll see that it's basically just put a hole straight through the material now this isn't something i use very often but it can be very useful if you need to drill repetitive holes through your piece of material for whatever reason that may be we'll delete that out and we'll come down to the type tool now this is probably one of the most common tools that you will use within easel once you click on it you'll be presented with a selection of fonts now as we're only just working with the standard version of easel we have this limited selection if you do upgrade to the pro version then obviously you can insert your own fonts into here but for most people this selection will be enough now once you select the font that you want to work with it will automatically insert a box saying text you can then click into this and type anything that you need to go in this space and once you've typed everything that you need you can come back over to the shape area and again you can adjust the sizes the position as needed you can also change the font to something else if you feel that particular font doesn't work for you now in some design programs you can set the specific size of the font easel doesn't quite work like that it does it on measurements as opposed to font size so you do put specific measurements in for the size or width that you're after or you can use the anchor points and drag it up and down to resize it as you need to the other thing as well by default it will size this in proportion and keep everything in the same constraints however if you want to just adjust this in one way you can hold the shift button down click on one of the anchor points and then resize it to a proportion that suits you now below the text option you'll see this little apple symbol and this is the design library within easel basically what this is is a load of shapes that you can use as part of your design now again most of these are part of the pro version but there are some in the various menus that are free to use so do have a look through this library as i say there are a few options that you can use but then you will get down to a certain point where it may say that you need to start using the pro versions for example if i come over to animals we'll see we've got a few animals to begin with as we scroll down we then get to the pro version where there are some more complex options now what i would say as well is that most of these shapes are just what we call svgs and you can usually find them for free off the internet so you can head over to google and you can just start to type something such as dog svg and within the images section you'll be presented with a few options that you can use you need to make sure they are actually svgs as we'll see there it does highlight this is an svg but basically when you download that file you can then come back into easel and import it into here now quickly show you how these work i'm just going to come back up to basic and select something like the love heart now when we open this it gives us the options of how we want easel to treat it do you want to fill the entire shape do you just want to use the outline of it and when we're talking about the outline we have three options we can either sit on the line itself which is if you imagine there is a center line drawn all the way through the middle of this heart outline or then you have the outside and the inside and as we can see by the illustration here the outside will go to the outside of the line whereas the inside will stay on the inside of it now this is all relevant to when we're doing the cutting paths shortly but for now i'm just going to click on the fill option and it inserts the heart and again we can reshape and resize it like any of the other shapes that we've already worked with now we'll see that this is a complete singular shape if i delete this and come up to something else we'll open the library back up and we'll click an option that has various shapes within it now again i'm just going to click the fill option and it's inserted but what we can see straight away is it's built this up as several shapes so we have the outline of the face and then we have the eyes and the mouth these can all be edited individually so once you click off it you can then come back and move the individual pieces around now if you want to keep everything linked within that particular object that you've just inserted highlight everything right click on it and come down to combine and what this does now is basically makes it all one shape so as we move it about it moves everything together as opposed to the individual elements again i'll delete that out now the next button down which looks like a lego piece is the apps option now what this is is basically some inbuilt tools within easel that you can use to do various jobs for the purpose of today's tutorial we're not going to touch any of these extra tools we're going to just focus on some very basic things but you can always come in here to use them because some of them are quite useful for example this radial array tool if you need to do a shape multiple times in perhaps like a circle layout it just makes your life easier then we have offset tools as well so we'll talk through some of these in a more advanced tutorial which we'll be following after today's and finally the last tool is the import tool now as i just mentioned when we were talking about the shapes you can import your own shapes or images into easel to work with so for example if you're already used to designing in something like illustrator or inkscape you can import your own spgs or the drawing files or even g-code directly into easel it's also where you can use the image trace function to import a jpeg and convert it into an spg or a vector that you can then start to edit now before we finish up with the tool menu i will quickly show you that as you are using different shapes and different tools when you right click on them you will get different menu options so for we can see a few options there such as cut copy your flip options and to send it backwards or bring it forwards to adjust your layers now if we select both shapes together and right click we'll see we're presented with extra options such as alignment where we can take them to left right top bottom and bring them all maybe aligned horizontal to the center there are also options up here in the edit menu that don't always appear in the right click menu for example a very useful one is this sent out to material where it will put everything that you have selected to the center of the work area now because we had both shapes selected together it's positioned that as one however if we come out select an individual item and go edit center material it just places that in the center and equally we can do the same with the circle as well so now we've run through the tools let's actually take a look and start getting something designed so i'm going to delete those shapes out so what i'm going to do today is create a little sign that goes next to my dog's bed just simply saying baxter's bed obviously baxter is my dog if you're not familiar with him already so we're going to come up to fonts and i want the text to be quite chunky so i'm going to go with the bangers font now we click into the text box i'm going to start by typing baxters and i want this to be quite large on the work area so it's going to click and enlarge this using the anchors on the side to make it pretty big next i'm going to come up to edit and come down to center to material next we're going to come back to the text again i'm going to use the same font and we're going to type bed so we'll delete the word text and type bed again i want to enlarge this slightly but not too much this time so i'm going to make that a little bit bigger and just position it over here to the right hand side now i could if i wanted to align these both to the right hand side by selecting them together right clicking and click align to the right however i do like the fact that that was slightly angled and the bed was sitting just behind it so it almost looked like they were already in line so i'm just going to undo that by clicking ctrl z or you can also come up to edit and click undo let's try and make this a bit more exciting let's see what we've got in the library that we can work with so now i'm going to open this up and i'm just going to type poor let's see if we can find a dog paw excellent so we've got lots of choice in the pro area but we have one in the free area and that will do for today now again when we click it we're going to have various options to work with the fill or the outline again for today i'm just going to click on the fill because that's how i want it to appear as an infield paw now it's sitting a bit too big so we're going to shrink that down and what i want is two paws that are slightly offset to each other so i'm going to come up and click edit go to copy and then go back down and edit and paste and just bring them up a little bit so it almost looks like they are paw prints walking in line with each other i'm just going to select both and shrink them a little bit there we are but we still have this big gap up here so let's see what else we've got that we can use on baxter's sign so let's search for dog it's not quite baxter but we'll work with it so again i'm going to click it and select the fill option and let's reposition it up to this top area up here now it's a bit too big for the space so we're going to use the anchor point and shrink it down and move it roughly into the center so now we've got some elements on our design let's go ahead and take a look at this cut menu now this you can select different cut options for the different items on your work area so for example we can have a different cut depth for the dog than we can for the different fonts so for example i'm going to set the depth of the dog to two millimeters but i want the rest of it to be a little bit deeper so i'm going to drag and highlight over all of those and i want to take this down to about three and a half millimeters actually let's just make it four now what we can actually see on screen as well is the deeper the cut goes the darker things appear both on the left hand side on and on the right hand side so as we'll see baxter's bed is actually coming out quite black whereas the dog logo up on the top is a lighter shade of grey signaling that this is actually a shallower cut now while we're editing these we'll also take a look at the cut path options so if i just come back and select baxters on its own we're going to expand this menu out and we have a few choices here now the first one is clear outer pocket and what this will do is anything that is part of the shape it will machine it all out as we can see over on the right hand side we then have a few options for cutting on the path line itself and as we saw when we were inserting things out of the library we have a few different options for the path line we can cut on the path line which is directly on the line itself you have to cut on the outside of the path which if i do that you'll see that's updated to basically cut around the actual shape itself and then the final option is to cut on the inside of it now all four of these options can be useful depending on what you're doing on the project and as we've already seen they will give different results now i kind of like the way the cut on shape path was appearing where it's just doing the outline of the letters but it's not overlapping them too much so you can still clearly see the definition of each letter so i'm just going to leave that one as it is so we've got a bit of variety going on in the sign now one thing i can see over on the right hand side on the visualization is that the dog is missing a little bit of detail it's actually missing the tail itself if i zoom in on this we should just be able to see it a bit clearer to move the actual 3d visualization around you can click and hold shift and then just drag it around so you can get a better view now the reason it's missing this detail is the bit that we're using to begin with is a 1 8 bit or a 3.175 millimeter bit now the way it works it will try and do as much area as possible but when it gets to bits that are too narrow for that bit to cut through it will simply ignore them and i can show you this by coming down to the bottom right hand side clicking on these three dots and clicking on uncut areas now once i've turned that on we can see by these red bits that are showing on screen the various areas that it will not cut because the bit is a bit too big to cover that if i drag this around a little bit more we can just about see in some of the corners of these letters as well it's rounding them off a little bit whereas they could be a little bit squarer now if i come back up and just show you the dog the way we can get around this is to use two different bits to do the cut itself and what this is called is a roughing and detail cut we'll use a bigger bit to remove as much material as possible we'll then use a smaller bit to go in and finish off some of the finer detail that the big bit cannot do so we're going to come up and we're going to click on this plus button up here we're presented with a menu where we can insert another bit to do additional cutting now again because we're using the free version we can only use the end mills and i'm going to click on the 1 16 bit end mill and then come back out and view the design now as we can see because we're using a smaller bit it's added in those extra details and most of the uncut areas have now disappeared if i just drag this down to the bottom text we might just about see there are some corners that are still being rounded off slightly but it's not anything that's going to really impact the design so zoom out of this a little bit so we are almost done with the sign itself what we now need to do is set the settings for those bits themselves so we're going to come to the cut settings menu up in this top right hand corner now i'm going to stress here do not trust the settings that are in place automatically as i say it bases these settings on other machines if you are new to this the best thing to do is just experiment and play with various speeds until you get ones that you're happy with me i like to be quite conservative with my speed so i would rather this job actually complete than having failed jobs so what i'm going to do is come up to manual and this will now allow me to edit the speeds and as i mentioned earlier i'm working on my 3018 pro so i'm going to start with a speed of around 500 millimeters per minute i'm happy with the plunge rate but i'm going to bring the depth right down to about 0.4 millimeters and the spindle that i have installed today is the 20 000 rpm so i'm going to put that at around 18 000. and down the bottom we have fill method now again these two options on the right hand side are for pro users we only have the offset but just to explain what this is you can see by the diagram below the way it will treat the cutting path itself now a raster cut can often be better when you're machining wood because you can tell it to go with the grain of the wood however for the purpose of today just because we're working with plywood which is layered in different directions the offset will do fine now we just set all the settings for my 1 8 bit i'm just going to do the same for the 116 bits we're going to come over to manual and i'm going to put some settings in here i'm going to make this slightly slower at 400 millimeters and i'm going to make it a fraction slower at 0.3 millimeters deep but i'm going to keep the rpm at 18 000 again now as i say these are just my speeds you can use your own now once we've done all that and we put the settings in we can just click off this and it'll save them for us what we can also do in easel before moving over and getting this machined out is get easel to simulate roughly what it may come out like so if we click on the simulate button it will now calculate all the tool paths that it needs to create this design you'll see that we have various lines on top of this the first one is the red one for clearing out as much material as it possibly can with the bigger bit so the green one is the 1 8 bit we then have the red line which is for doing some of the finer and smaller details and going round and that is the 1 16 bit now we can see down here we have some rough time estimates now it's 26 minutes for the green line and then one hour and 22 minutes for the red line now i should clarify this is easily trying to guess the speeds of your machine such as your grbl settings so these are not always accurate but we can also run the simulation using these buttons over here and we can see roughly how we expect the machine to run it's going to go and start machining one area if i speed this up a little bit so we've done the design we've input all the settings that we need the next thing to do is export the g-code from easel now easel does have the facility to actually run your machine i strongly advise against it i always recommend using a standalone program for running your machine such as ugs candle or open build my preference being ugs so how do we go about getting the g code out of easel well we come up to here to machine and then we come down to this small little menu that says advanced and we have a couple of options now from most of the time you can leave all these settings the same your safety heights are basically how high up the z-axis will travel in between each cut your step over is how much of a step over the bit will take in between doing each cut itself so a higher percentage will result in a faster cut however it might come out looking much rougher because you're doing it in bigger steps v bit detail again is very similar it's the percentage of overlap but we're not using a v bit today so that is less relevant now you do have an accessories command option here and basically what this allows you to do is if you've got various things wired up to your machine such as a vacuum or dust extraction you can allow it to turn those on at the same time but today we don't need these the next step is very important spindle control now one of the most common questions i always get asked when people use easel is why is my spindle not starting and this is the reason why most people have it on manual and what this means is the machine will expect you to start your spindle manually we want to have it on automatic so that the spindle starts it for us as i mentioned earlier i'll be using my 20 000 spindle so i'll put the default rpm at 20 000. now obviously we've already set the rpm for the bits themselves at 18 000. this is where you put the maximum speed that your spindle can actually run at once we know all these settings are correct we then click generate g-code and once we've generated it we then export the relevant files that we need do the roughing and then the detail and we can see they've appeared down here in the bottom so fix my piece of material to the bed itself using the clamps normally my preferred method is blue tape and ca glue if you're not familiar with that method check out the link in the corner to the tips video where i'll show you how to do that because i just find it slightly easier as the clamps don't get in the way however for the purpose of today's video i am going to be using the clamps now when using the clamps they should either be perfectly parallel when holding the material down or to slide downward angle to ensure there is enough pressure to stop the material moving now the piece of material i'm using today is 6.5 millimeters thick and it is just ply board what i've done is applied a bit of a finishing to it just to give it some contrast as we can see here between the original and the piece i'm using today so it's just a bit of a stain so that when we machine through we'll get the lighter color coming through of the wood from underneath now some people when they do signs of this kind they will machine the letters out and then try and hand paint all the individual letters and pieces to give that contrast this is a slightly easier way to do it make the top layout dark and then when you machine through everything that we want machining comes through the lighter color and i say just gives it that contrast that we need what i'm going to do now is open up ugs and get this positioned right over the corner ready for it to start and set the zero so we've got ugs open i know my com port is number six and we've got the board right correct if you're unsure of your com port and remember you can open device manager and look for the one that says ch340 that will tell you the com port that you need to input so i know all these settings are correct so i'll click connect we'll give that a second to actually connect to the machine there we are all the job controls have come to life so that means everything is working as it should be so what we're going to do is move the head over to the bottom left hand corner in order to set the zero so that's pretty close i'm just going to reduce the step sizes down to one millimeter and then 0.5 millimeter on the zed and then we're just gonna really dial it in and get it as close as possible before setting the zero that's pretty close i'm just going to bring the step size down a little bit more to 0.1 and just lower it slowly until i know it's touching the top of the material now i'm pretty happy with that and remember you can use a zed probe as well to do this follow the link in the corner for how to set up a zed probe so with that done i'm going to click reset zero so with the zero set let's go ahead and load in our first piece of g code we're gonna go to the open icon and then we're gonna head to the desktop and i'm gonna open the untitled roughing and that should load it in excellent we know roughly what it's going to cut obviously we can see it on the visualizer over here so with everything loaded and all the settings correct let's go ahead and get that job started [Music] so now the job has finished we need to swap out the 1 8th bit with a 1 16 bit and then reset the zero whenever you're swapping bits out make sure they are well seated inside of the collet let's lower that z-axis back down and get it touching the zero on that corner again so with the bit now touching the top of the material we're going to click reset zero again we're now going to come up to the open icon load in the detail pass and again just check everything that looks as it should and rough depths and then we can head over and click play again [Music] and with a light sand that is our sign done now looking back at the sign i've probably gone way too deep with the cuts themselves because we stay in the front of the wood you only really need to go shallow in order to get that contrast between the shapes and the stain itself so if i did this again i would definitely go shallower and that would at least half the machine in time that it took to get it all done i'd probably also do the baxter like the bed and the bed like baxter to make the name stand out more so yeah definitely always lessons to be learned from these projects now we only really touched on a few of the basic features within easel and what we're going to do in some future episodes is look at more advanced things that we can do in it but still just focusing on the free elements so we don't have to pay so definitely keep an eye out for those future episodes now that is everything for today's episode what i'll do is put a link in the description area below to any of the bits used and also the link to easel so you can find it nice and easy definitely check out that area also comment down below if you've got any questions i will get back to everyone as quick as i possibly can final thanks always goes to my patreon supporters you really keep this channel going so thank you very much and i'll see everyone on the next episode

Channel: James Dean Designs

Views: 30,640

Keywords: 3018PRO, 3018 pro, 3018 pro CNC, CNC, 3018, 3018pro build, 3018 pro assembly, small cnc, desktop cnc, laser cnc, woodworking cnc, woodworking, test cut, CNC software, Using 3018, 3018 beginner, 3018pro beginner, 3018 tips ticks, cnc tips tricks, cnc help, laser help, cnc beginner, beginners guide to cnc routing, beginners guide to easel, 3018 easel, 3018 easel settings, 3018 pro easel, learn to design cnc, cnc design basics, sainsmart, foxalien

Id: EZEropgZ_FY

Length: 36min 1sec (2161 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 02 2021