Attempting To Get A Burned Mazdaspeed Miata To Run Again! Its Gonna Be FINE!

word of warning this might be a little upsetting for some of you Miata guys I am a Miata guy myself I've been into Miatas since Miatas were brand new I was six years old when the Miata came out and I remember writing in them and driving nb2s early nv2s when they were brand new I was reporter at the dealership which probably explains why I've had so many of these cars and also why I part out so many of these cars I've only had the chance to buy a few Mazda Speed cars and this is the second one and as you can see this suffered an external overheat situation and I have no idea how many miles are on it or if it runs I mean I know it doesn't run well let me open up the other Hood it's it got a little hot so hot but we're gonna see if we can get it to run today because I like a challenge even if it's a waste of time just to be clear I have no intention of fixing this car or driving this car this car holds a junking certificate it is strictly a parts car it can never be re-registered for use on public streets which is totally fine because frankly this is more of a project than I would ever want to tackle that doesn't mean we can't hear it run I like to know everything there is to know about the parts I sell and that is including if the engine runs compression and leak down test will get you so far but I want to hear it run I want to know how many miles are on it we have some things to find out today towards the end of the second generation Miata Mazda decided to make a Mazda speed version this is the second vehicle in the United States to wear the Mazda speed badge the first being the Protege these cars it featured a 1.8 liter non-variable valve timing turbocharged engine based on the same 1.8 liter Mazda has had since 1990 it actually came out in the Miata in 94. they make 178 horsepower in Factory form these cars had different gearing they had different Wheels bumpers some interior things are different there's a long list of things that make this car special in fact they only made 5400 of these cars now I've driven several of these cars both stock and tuned and some with other mods and I can tell you that if you own one of these cars without a tune you are missing out now this looks like it may be a low mileage car the auction writes no Odo on it because obviously it doesn't power up but the interior is really nice this was someone's really nice car doesn't have much bolster wear even the shift knob hardly has anywhere I'm sorry it's dark in here guys I'll put the top down in a minute the only exterior damage really is the top and that could have happened at any point in time after the fire it looks like this could be a good mileage car and that's what I'm hoping for because these engines are not cheap it is kind of sad though this car's not Rusty anyway let's look underneath the hoods well that that's still doesn't just okay so it got it got warm under here that valve cover is supposed to be red looks like this is probably the hottest part over here if I were guessing who knows why this caught fire it looks like it was bone stock still stuck air box serpentine belts are still on it let's uh let's make this a little easier for me the first thing that I need to do is get this Hood out of the way somehow normally these hoods come off it's really easy but this one perfect I almost hit the car with that that would have been terrible well let's take a look here um well for starters and everything is super melted see what the inside of this looks like it's clean no fire there oh there's a dipstick still wow everything I touch is just crumbling I mean it's almost like it was on fire and the wiring over here is kind of troublesome some of this stuff is pretty important some of this it doesn't matter most of it it doesn't matter we're gonna have a lot of work at this a lot the wiring is for sure the worst part well the one thing I wanted to check is the timing belt because that'll determine how much work we have to do if you can see in there the belt looks fine it's fine yeah that's fine timing cover is not fine but we just want to hear it run that's it and as you can see the rest of the wiring well this is going to be um there's gonna be a lot of butt connectors is all I'm saying let's see if we can get this fuse box open looks like the cover melted around that's uh I need to wear my gloves Let's uh let's let's tackle that first then we can see what fuses are blown now we're going to need to be pretty Ginger to get this open okay well it melted the fuses and they're popped that's cool so we're gonna have some work to do nothing too bad this is largely intact we just have to replace the fuses the good thing they're color coded and now one of these bolts in that's 100 amps right here so I can't go prying on it too hard as long as that one stays fuse with cover that's pretty good um so the 100 amp is not blown we're still going to replace all these fuses and probably this relay although I have a feeling the relay is going to be okay that's the main relay right there okay can we get this out looks like it's going to bring part of the cover with it oh that's all we need he's got the cover off look I realized mint inside and it will still relay so that's good oh we're just gonna we're going to be replacing a lot of fuses on this thing I know some of this might be premature but I'd rather start off with a set of good visas hey I need you where'd you go all right I'll get that one back in a minute now this fuse box was melted any further this would likely be a lot tougher to do all right I see where it went now I'm going to attempt to grab it yes okay ready to start wait no not yet so what's going to likely happen is it's going to pop a whole bunch of fuses uh we're gonna have to chop a lot of this harness out and nothing's gonna work which is fine I just need the cluster to work and the engine to work this is all headlight harness here see all those wires have perfect continuity that's all fuel stuff uh that's gonna be fun but the battery there's uh the battery harness looks to be un unscathed it still has a sheathing on it that's important I don't want to replace the battery harness this is all nice conditioned stuff here I guess I should probably pay attention to where this stuff goes it's fine it's totally fine I guess I'm going to remove this strut bar at least give us a little more access I definitely want to power this thing up first I'm going to disconnect the ECU so we don't let any smoke out any more smoke out actually next I'm going to remove a bunch of charred wreckage it's just get this cleaned up a little bit how am I ever gonna put this back together well that's not all full of water so that's good think that hose has a hole in it but I think the rest of the cooling system looks to be intact fans are done throttle cable still cables I think maybe not I think throttle cable is going to be too far gone we'll see there's a TPS connector in here somewhere all of these things are a one piece now let me get the wire cutters I'm just gonna snippy snippy everything because it's all one piece it doesn't matter I'm gonna have to basically fix all this anyway well I can't get the crank sensor bolt off so I need to that is not working as intended use a chisel right now okay let's add a crank sensor to the list of needs okay okay but these connectors down here are still good that TPS is going to be a problem too I think we'll be okay though okay we're we're making some progress here and there's the bypass valve assembly that's good all right so this is all airflow meter wiring crank sensor that got kind of toasty I don't know if I'm gonna be able to fix that on the serpentine belts are unhappy I think they'll be fine once they run all this plastic that melted and dripped onto them off let's even get the air box out that looks like fun so I'm using a special tool called a don't care about this car prying device and so far it seems to be the right tool for the job okay lots of melted stuff we have to get a vacuum out here oh I see this connects to the that and then there's the AC that doesn't matter but I can run the air conditioning in this but we do need to pay attention to oh I think we're gonna be okay crank sensor disconnected connector's still good we are good all right well we still have some hoses that seem to be okay we'll disconnect those the correct way kinda and then we have this crankcase hose which doesn't matter so we're just gonna snip it right there now we are getting somewhere so it's definitely going to need coils and wires at least some of them so let's make that happen okay so as you can see plug wires look to be in pretty good shape the parts that are in the valve cover so I don't think this got too hot usually these things are long gone if that would be the case if this thing got that hot so our oxygen sensor connector is unhappy we're gonna cut that on the harness side and we'll deal with that later oh okay that broke it's fine foreign just literally ripping Parts off of it as I go EGR these connectors all seem to be unaffected okay so the engine harness is for the most part oh I don't want to break the windshield I gotta be careful that's our ground no so there are sub harnesses that go to the injectors and none of that appears to be melted thank God that would be a lot more work for me I'm gonna say that everything's perfect and I think the TPS survived here yes I will be able to plug into that and I need a bunch of vacuum line next to see if the throttle cable cables press on the gas pedal and nope that's locked up solid oh the clutch pedal is no clutch pedal that's it's fine so this cable is locked up and I would bet that it's in this area or this area now we need to go disconnect the ECU I'm doing this just to make sure that I don't send power to something that's not supposed to have power cut it so just three yep there's just three now to avoid setting this thing on fire again I'm actually going to cut this entire harness off right where it really starts getting bad right about here this would pop out of the way this hopefully will make sure that it doesn't catch on fire again no guarantees though there we go so hopefully nothing makes continuity with itself right in there and now we're going to go to the other side do the same all right so now the harness gets really bad that's all ABS stuff so that doesn't matter we don't need no abs but we need fire another fire less than we need abs we're just going to cut it right here headlight stuff those aren't there anymore there's also some relays and some things back here I can't really tell how bad it is it all looks external like it all looks like it's just a sheathing that's melted and now let's go check on the battery and see what the battery looks like okay well the battery is not cut [Music] cables aren't cut anyway so that's that's good looks like we've had some rodents in here that's not good it can't be any worse than fire I think at this point I'm gonna put a jump box on it and we're gonna see if it sets itself back on fire I do have fire extinguishers and I know how to use them this is a big moment here ground is connected now unfortunately I can't use my nose to smell if there's smoke because this car just smells like fire we're still gonna try well we have trunk lights um my jump box is dead well I don't think that just killed my jump box that fast oh we have fire stuff's happening stuff's happening right now well we definitely had some fire happening over here I gotta get this fuse box up figure out what wire is so unhappy could be a wiper motor okay so this all looks okay it's just a little charred I know there's another bolt I know there's more bolts holding this in looks like this might be oh yes that's hot still yeah this is uh I'm gonna have to trim this back even farther that looks terrible um yeah I didn't realize this was this bad it's not good it's not good at all this is going to require a little bit of time here I wish this was this part was on fire a little bit less I don't know let's just break this all apart here let's get everything separated foreign okay so this area is in really bad shape I'm just going to peel this all back so this one looks to be the least damage this one can stay but I don't think it's a lost cause not at all all right now we're gonna check some fuses I've got a ton of them are blown and I'm looking for the room fuse and let's see what else we got here to Gar I mentioned like half of these are popped foreign that's a good sign I think this thing got wet probably when they're trying to put the fire out all right so I need to find 12 which is this 15 amp right here it's a meter fuse oh I guess I can only do one fuse at a time huh and that's not that's not blown it could also be five which is the 7.5 right here that one is how is that one I found one blown fuse in the under hood fuse box and it'll probably pop it again when I connect it but we're gonna try it anyway I'm gonna watch for fire no fire no fire yet I think we're okay cluster is still not powering on so now we have some dash lights we have a low fuel light seat belt light the radio turns on dome light works but the cluster doesn't light up uh airbag light is kind of on it's it's pretty pissed but I really need to see why the cluster doesn't light up so there are three fuses that feed the cluster the room fuse the there's a seven half amp fuse I think it's Stig and then meter meter's the big one so I've got my test light here and we're going to see if the fuses have power the fuses don't have power we'll go look at the wiring diagram and figure out where that power comes from this 15 amp is the meter fuse it's got 10 volts it's not enough but it's something and then this view is here okay so the meter and room fuse have power and the St Sig fuse does not so we're going to go look into where that gets its power from all right so this is the ignition switch here and up here is the engine bay fuse box which is a little toasty and here's the uh cabin fuse box so here is our St Sig fuse here which is not getting power and it looks like it gets power only in the start function that doesn't make sense we have power here we just don't have power here where does this fees feed oh that's the cruise control and instrument cluster systems so we need to see where this power goes so it's a violet wire from the fuse box let's go look for uh Violet wire and maybe different though there we go hot and start I wonder if it's hot when it hot now let's see this run and start so it's only during cranking yeah that's just for the starter I don't think that matters let's actually go to the starting system and take a look at that yeah that has nothing to do with it here's here's the instrument cluster right here I'm not worried about that fuse not having power so now we need to check to see if the cluster has a good ground the next thing we're going to do is look at the ground distribution so we know what kind of works here I'm just reading here instrument clusters in here instrument clusters in here and instrument clusters in here so it's acting like it's got uh an ignition switch problem that is that is kind of odd and it could have burned up the ignition switch I suppose we can always pull that column apart and take a look in fact I think we should take a look there I got extract switches here so it won't be a problem before we go tearing this thing apart let's look at a few things here mainly the ignition switch so the ignition switch gets its power from a 60 amp fuse that's in fuse box in the engine bay and then it splits here and it Powers the starting and run side of the switch the entire switch is powered off of one white with a red wire so now we know that the radio does power on at least it lights the radio up so since the radio lights up we know we have power at least to this leg because that feeds this um and we also know it feeds the meter fuse here so we know we have 12 volts here well we have power I'm not going to call it 12 volts we power here power here and we don't have power here well we don't know that but we need to find out let's go see if maybe we can find a broken wire because it's it's possible that this white with a red wire here is in the this section right here is in the engine bay and I chopped it out because it was all melted first we're going to uh see if we got power to this fuse I'm sure we do I want to verify I don't know if that's going to be a good enough ground okay we have voltage here oh how do we have power at both sides so I think we've got some wires touching each other probably in this mess trying to feel for the Heat this area is this is where most of the damage is okay we have power any of these relays here yeah so we have Windows no we don't have Windows we have horn that's bird you have blower no no blower the next thing we're going to do is remove the ignition switch this comes out pretty easily put this lower dash panel of the way while we're here damage anything so we've got some wiring here is it melted I don't see anything melted so so that part is good so now we need to see if we got power to the switch okay so I gave the car some some juice so we got power at the blue wire okay so we're missing a power leg to the ignition switch I think it's supposed to be white with the red there are two of them and let's go find out where that comes from oh I think we know so if we have power to the blue wire we'll go look at a wiring diagram and we'll figure out why we have power to one side and not the other so I think what's Happening Here is we're getting power back fed to the ignition switch we don't have power and either of these white and red we just have power at the blue and so this is the power feed for the switch uh and we have power at this which makes sense as to why some of the cluster lights up and if you look the meter fuse is also felt fed powered by the blue wire so if it's going the wrong direction exterior lights transmission shift interlock cluster SRS so that that lights on door locks I don't know if those work or not cruise control I can't test but exterior lights got burned up and we know the SRS light is on so we have power back fed to the meter fuse I'm pretty sure that's what's going on here so we definitely have some wires that are unhappy and now we gotta go find them so I'm looking at the wiring diagram again I now have power where I'm supposed to I uh wiggle the wires that fixed it fixed it and now I'm pretty confident that I'm missing this ground and the reason I say that is this cluster has two grounds it has terminal n on connector one which I've highlighted and it has terminal J which is the black wire uh this ground is behind the right headlight that's gone and this ground is behind the left headlight that's gone so these two grounds are gone but I cheated so we sell these clusters powered up on the bench and I went and picked out the harness we used to plug that in there's only one connector so I matched up the wire color turns out it is connector one so I should be able to get the cluster to power up as long as I verify this ground is good what I'm going to likely do is uh stick my head under the dash and pull that whole harness through to the inside strip it down and then we'll ground it on the inside of the cabin and see if we have no doubt this harness back here is where I need to fish through the firewall and into the cab so we're going to do that now can't get my camera back there but I'll do my best well I thought this would be easy it really isn't all right are the color that we need wouldn't you know I've got the harness pulled through I've got all the melted wires separated and all of the possible wires for the ground for this cluster pulled out and ready it's a black wire with a blue stripe so now we're going to pull the cluster I've already pulled the cluster Hood I'm going to pull the cluster and we're going to do a continuity test between the terminal I know is ground from the wiring diagram and one of the wires down in the dash and that way we can figure out which wire to ground we'll see if the cluster lights up foreign here this terminal right there let's go get a meter all right now we just need to listen for the beep oh what was that okay so I'm gonna get this grounded and we're gonna see if we get a cluster out of this all right we're gonna do this together get this what just happened oh we have an odometer 93 000 miles boy that's awesome see what happens when we key on here nothing parking brake Okay so we successfully have an odometer we know this car has 93k which is good anything under 100 is great for one of these now we have a lot of work to do now we know the miles 93 000 miles that's really good for any first or second gen Miata anything under 100K I'd consider low miles but this video was not about figuring out how many miles were on this car this video was about getting this car running and I know many of you are scratching your heads trying to figure out how the heck I'm going to do that and well I so I don't I don't hoard Parts okay hoarding is a strong word I prefer save so here I have a complete Mazda speed Miata engine that I've had for three years it's not a good engine it's got a blown head gasket it's still a good parts engine and I kept this around because I needed some Hardware some fittings and some other things for a turbo build that I haven't even whatever I kept it okay I kept it I couldn't sell this I kept it and wouldn't you know it that all of the external Parts on this engine are good and on this not so much so now comes the task of replacing this harness the coils some sensors and then maybe we can hear this thing run own the parts I owned this before I own this it's fair this is gonna be Grand very the first Banner of business is going to be this harness so as you can see here are the ECU connectors that's simple we've already been in there looks like this just slides over a stud and then this boot is on the passenger side of the firewall and then this is all the edge of stuff this was not a very nice Mazda speed Miata it's probably the worst one ever this burned car is still nicer but hopefully the harness is intact enough to use okay let's see where this goes good I'm glad Miatas are small cars you know so that harness comes out right here and I know it's supposed to go the other way but that is not going to stop me I'm gonna pull it through this way because I can't admit I don't really want to drag this burned up junk harness through here I don't know maybe I might have to let's see here yeah I'm gonna have to let's get that pushed in there go now there there okay so all of this um you know what we're gonna do we're just gonna chop it so this harness is pretty much junk anyway so there's no real reason none at all I'll just clipping stuff so if you guys don't have Cutters like this these are like the best perfect we'll see if we can pull this through the interior all right maybe we just get lucky and we can just pull on this it'll be fine I don't think it's going to be fine oh yes oh the hard part getting the rest of this up to where it was this harness is in such good shape previous owners took such good care by removing every bit of tape well I looked long and flexible for my mechanical fingers and I can't find them I in fact I don't even know if we ever had any here at the shop so I'm going to stick my flashlight in the hole where the harness goes through and hopefully I can see kind of where to aim it and then I can reach it with some pliers to the other side it's a it's an idea I didn't say it was a great one oh I see light so probably tape this up that'd be a good idea in fact I'm gonna get some zip ties that's easier than tape okay I've got this kind of zip tied up and now we're gonna do my best now I'm gonna do my best to get this uh into the area where I can see it I have a feeling this is not gonna work too well but all I can do is try all right now let's see if I can see a thing with it oh I see the tip can I get it I just need the tip nope all right we're gonna keep trying [Applause] this isn't a great time I swear this is gonna work all right well I got it kind of crammed in there as far as I can oh boy I'm all messed up here can I see the harness oh I see the harness can I get it though seeing it and getting it two different things oh really I only get one connector and then that's it I can see another connector we have another connector that wants to make an entrance or exit whatever you want to call it two connectors one zip tie it sounds bad it's not really what I meant okay so basically we have to just go back and forth a whole bunch because it gets caught on I don't know everything oh now that was good there's a crank sensor what else we got power steering switch well here we go we're getting more there we go okay I think I'm I think I'm there guys I don't really have to snap it in but this is getting caught on everything this is it this is this is the harness all right now that the harness is pulled through before we start putting anything back on here I'm actually going to start removing some of the burned up stuff just so it doesn't get caught in the belt or cause another problem in the future that that's still good the belts appear to be okay I think I need to check inside the timing cover because the upper timing cover is melted and I don't want anything throwing the timing belt off so let's take a look at in there see if there's any melted bits we're gonna have to fish out now there's the belt I don't really see anything down in there I just I don't want to I don't want to do all this work and then have a problem there is something down there I can't see it with my eyes what is that ah that'll be fine it'll eat that I think we're okay the first thing I'd like to pull off of the parts engine the coils and plug wires foreign no okay that one's okay oh this is gonna be fun all right so the the middle one's okay the outer one that came apart can I get that out in one piece this one is still stuck sweet so I just have one I'm gonna get it ah we're good that'll work all right now to put these back in else in there uh oh oh something did fall in there no worries we'll get it out I think we're good now okay the next thing I need to do is get the cam sensor out of the other engine foreign now we need to find all the plugs so where does everything go all right let's start with the short wires here looks like uh I don't know what that does we'll figure that out oh that's a solenoid back here there's EGR that's oxygen sensor that's going to take a minute we can get our coils plugged in now this harness is pretty butchered so I'm not really sure how it's supposed to be laid out but is that TPS yes that sounded terrible I don't know what this does could this possibly be oh it's a solenoid we'll get that in a minute that's a boost control solenoid and then it plugs into there I think please with a reason as ground goes right here and I have the bolt for it one that came out of it Okay so we've got ayak we have TPS don't have cam sensor is that cam sensor that's cam sensor so this is the loose control solenoid I don't know if I really want to do that this is crank sensor we need that that's important and then what else we got air flow meter intake air temp and power steering this doesn't do anything but I'm going to plug the power steering in all right well this looks like AC that we definitely want to hear and we want to we want we definitely want the AC to work so plug that in and then we just have three things left air flow meter IET which is intake air temp and the boost control solenoid I'm going to plug a boost control solenoid in so it doesn't freak out for whatever reason I don't know what these will tolerate not having so that's just air on the side of caution here foreign one out of here now I'm not planning on running boost or driving this car around I just it just needs to run which is why I'm just plugging everything in that's it all right everything is nicely done here I have vacuum lines and I have the rest of the harness under the dash we'll do that last oh I still have to worry about the O2 sensor I would like to get that plugged in this doesn't look so great I don't know if I can do anything with this this appears to all be one piece I don't know if I can chisel this away I'm gonna try though this isn't looking too promising guys if I just uh smash this connector and maybe it'll come out right now let's see if we can look at the wire color well we can we can go by the wire color on the other one so I can always I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to smash this connector and then I can just insert the pins in the harness side connector right here yeah they're these are these pins are going to be female the harness is male okay that was explosive but I think we're good that's like best case scenario because I'm pretty sure I can just plug this in yeah I think I can plug this in almost I gotta break the rest of this melted stuff off I have no idea what direction I'm supposed to go but it's fine I'll look at it on the uh the other connector on the parts engine according to the other oxygen sensor on the parts engine it fits like this does this plug in no this doesn't plug in what the supposed to go like this oh it goes like this that's good enough for me check the oil it's full all right we're getting somewhere Let's uh let's figure out the vacuum I just gotta plug everything that's kind of how I'm gonna do it so the biggest vacuum line or vacuum Port is going to be the brake booster which uh we're not going to try the brakes so we're just going to slide that over this and then we're going to slide this in there it's an ACDelco plug and we're good I might put that clamp on there but now let's plug up the smaller stuff pull off some of this crispy stuff here we're gonna disconnect nope nope that's all one piece nope we're just gonna forget that and this rubber's cooked on here well this calls for blue all right looks like I have three vacuum ports here let's get some vacuum lines and just off this other motor and just let's see if we can connect the dots here all right so here's the actual vacuum line that goes between these two ports it's like a glove don't forget to put the clamps on hopefully this one's long enough all right so this is the wire the connector I didn't know is this sensor here that's in the charge piping so we're just gonna there it's plugged in there we go I guess we also should uh look at the cooling system I don't want it spraying coolant it looks like maybe the radiator will hold coolant but this hose certainly won't so we'll uh we'll get that hose changed over since I already have it on the other engine oh coolant looks nice now I know this doesn't make much sense um but I'm doing it anyway because I don't want coolants all over the floor if I can avoid it and I'm not gonna let this thing run long enough to get to operating temperature anyway because the fans are melted the fan wiring's gone and like I said we just want to hear it run that's it that's the uh that's that's the assignment now one more thing I have to do is replace the PCV valve I'm just going to put this back together oh I found there's more vacuum line stuff we'll we'll keep finding this as we go but it's fine oh no okay so that's not gonna work so what we're gonna do is we're going to slightly modify this very carefully you know so we don't create any unnecessary damage just like you know just a little it's a little bit of a Bend there slide that out slide that one in oh look how well that fits it's almost like it's from one of these so I've got another vacuum line here and I'm not really sure where this one goes I think it's missing on the other engine that's crunchy that one into one of these other lines here I think that's going to make the most sense like a glove now I know some of you are concerned about the fueling on this engine fuel supply and it doesn't look like that was terribly affected by this so I'm just not going to do anything and if it sprays fuel then we will address it with uh future time so the next thing I need to do is worry about the intake what I think I'm going to do is use a non-turbo intake tube so I've got several of these laying around and we're just going to clamp that down it's my favorite kind of clamp and then we can put the airflow meter at the other end of the tube now we do have one vacuum line it's actually for crankcase ventilation so we'll have to seal that up somehow since we're not going to connect that airflow meter oh oh does this not fit this I don't think this fits this they're different okay plan B well I did find something that's gonna work I have a uh part of an intake ducting piece from a Mercedes I think it's from uh 230 compressor if I were a membrane guy get that clamp down and then this goes there but not before we put a clamp on it I mean I really don't need a clamp but I'm going to put a clamp on it I'm gonna run out of the clamp no we got plenty these cheap clamps they got all kinds of adjustment okay so the IAT can kind of hang out and where did oh it's right here okay it's the it we'll just uh so they're kind of somewhere and everything is plugged in except we got to go to the cabin and plug that stuff in we only have uh three ECU connectors and then one big Junction connector so I should be able to get all this done pretty quickly I don't know about comfortably but quickly okay there's the big connector and then we have the ECU connectors all right so now we need to ground that wire again for the cluster I don't know why I ungrounded that this grounded re-ground I don't know now we need to do a couple tests before we even try to start this thing well let's make sure the key is not in the ignition nope it's in the ignition and it's turned forward okay so keys out of the ignition we're gonna put the jump box in it make sure it doesn't uh set itself on fire again this is always a possibility foreign I don't see anything I don't smell anything all right the next thing I gotta see if we have power to the computer so I'll know if the computer has power if the check engine light 's up when I key on look at that oh boy I don't see smoke do I it's hard to see out of this windshield it's kind of it's kind of burned up well I guess I guess we could try to start it yeah let's try to start it start it because we have a really small fuel leak from this uh fuel hose that goes uh yeah where are we gonna get that fuel hose oh here's one so we're just going to replace this uh this really simple fuel line looks like it's swelled has a split in it and I don't I don't think that was the cause of the fire because the fire looks worse on that side I think that was caused from the fire so uh let's get this replaced all right oh gotta get some of these other things out of the way first and without that one side and see it's not the exact same but it's gonna work maybe it is the exact same and it just looks different I don't know it doesn't matter because it snaps right on one two and fixed all right one more thing to do before I crank this thing check engine light's flashing at me he's probably pissed ah there we go this just makes sure we have communication here I don't want to disappear and crank all day let's go through this might take just a moment Miata Turbo engine data data one it's collecting data finding all the data all right we have data sets at 73 degrees in here I think I do think we're ready to see if this thing starts oh boy okay guys this is the big event hopefully it doesn't catch yourself on fire that would be terrible clutch pedal in new actual all cranks I wonder if it's getting I wonder if it's throwing any codes yet let's find out well let's throw on some immobilizer codes we're gonna give this one more shot and then we're going to go look up the wiring for the immobilizer because it could be missing a ground nope nope let's go look up the wiring so here's a wiring diagram on the immobilizer it's immobilizer there gets power from the black and white terminal l and then the indicator is powered from the room fuse the black and white is power from the engine fuse so I need to check power at Terminal L and I need to check power at Terminal J so black and white and blue and red should both have 12 volts if either of them don't have or if they have different voltages maybe the immobilizer is not turning on and we may have to supply an outside Source or maybe fix the wiring as to why it doesn't have that so that's fine engine fuse 15 amp and see if we have power to it and work our way towards the immobilizer this car is throwing a p1624 which is an immobilizer code so now I'm going to check to see if the immobilizer has power if it does have power and the immobilizer is bad we might be dead in the water here I'm going to be very sad but the uh the key symbol does not light up in the cluster which could be a decent indicator first let's check our powers here at the connectors we need white with a black all right there's a 11.8 volts okay so we have both of our powers ah now we need to check the ground all right now we're going to check continuity uh for ground to make sure that the immobilizer has ground it's black wire here should scream at me no ground I don't really believe that well we might have our problem here let's uh make sure I'm getting a good connection I think this will probably solve our little continuity test and get ready for the beep no beep immobilizer's got no ground no ground okay we are on to something so now we need to ground that wire well that's a relief the immobilizer might not be junk after all so this is what I've decided to do here I've got the immobilizer hanging by the connector I've got uh the ground wire stripped and then a wire twisted around it like a professional and then that wire is run to this wire Twisted also like a professional and then even better it is clamped to the door stay stud it's perfect absolutely just it's just fine absolutely fine okay now I'm going to power the car up key is in the on position when I power the car up in the right side of the cluster you should see a key symbol light up and then turn off if everything's copacetic so I'm going to look over the trunk lid when I do this and we're going to keep our fingers crossed because if this immobilizer is bad this car is not starting at all and this was all for nothing here we go oh yeah awesome okay here we go come on Run please pretty please also don't catch fire again [Music] all right so now what I'm gonna try to do so I'm going to try to jam the fuel pump relay open I think it's this one right here my memory serves so it is definitely plugged in it's right there so I'm going to de-case this and see if I uh open it with power to the car key on I should hear the fuel pump run these relays do go bad I've sold these in the past all right now I've got the key on engine off and we got my relay here see if I can draw that relay in yep I can hear the pump right there so we're just gonna kind of just gonna keep that in somehow there we go that works the pump's running all right let's give this another shot so as soon as I connect the battery I've got fuel pressure and if I start it if the injectors are pulsing this car should start I mean they should all start well I looked at the wiring diagram and I wanted to make sure the injectors were getting constant power and I found a bent terminal I've actually straightened it a little bit we're going to straighten it up a little bit more plug it in and uh we'll see if uh see if this fixes it okay let's power this thing up and try again I'm curious to see if that relay doesn't need any help after this I'll come back here everything seems to be okay that's key on nope I'm still gonna help that relay out here goes something I don't know is it gonna work please work yes yes ah fantastic [Music] belts are unhappy that's fine oh that was a little too close for comfort oh it's it's pushing water out of the turbo watch this [Music] that's neat I'm sure the turbo is just fine I'll cut up belts [Music] probably from when they went to put the fire out uh this is great yes yes yes yes yes [Applause] well this thing's actually idling pretty well so uh it's got a little bit of a shake to it it's fine it's pretty unhappy I'm sure but listen to this back to life oh that's awful and it just sounds healthy 93 000 miles it's gonna take a little cleanup to make it a sellable unit but this is great the Idol's pretty good can't ask for anything better there are over 100 videos on this YouTube channel and I've had fun filming all of them from all the tear Downs fixing cars the ranger video was a lot of fun but none of them not a single one can come close to how much I enjoyed filming this this is what I love I love taking something that no one should ever do and doing it in front of you guys so there's a big question here is would I have gone through all of this work without having you guys to watch I don't I don't know that's a lot that's a big question but I will say this I love electrical diag I love Miatas and I love a challenge and this was all three of those things this was a lot of work and had this not worked and had this not run or that the mobilizer been bad which I would have been screwed if that were the case I wouldn't be nearly as happy it would have been a lot of work for for what so I could see miles and hear it crank well I could have taken the cluster out powered up on the bench and jumped the starter with battery and heard it crank I wanted it to run I like to know what I'm selling is good sure I'm gonna have to spend a little bit of time on cleanup valve cover timing cover intake manifold those kinds of things but I have them I have a bad engine over here and I don't plan on using those parts for any other projects but I really enjoyed this this was a ton of fun this looked three nights to film almost 10 hours maybe maybe even more and I don't even want to think about editing this but you guys don't have to I have to think about that I really hope you enjoyed this video if you'd like to buy parts off of this 93 000 mile Mazda speed Miata or this is the saddest thing ever is a rust free 89 000 mile 90 Mariner blue smashed in the front but it runs I'm gonna leave our email in the video description you can also go to importapart.com and you can peruse what we have listed check out the recent parts cars that I've uploaded and if you don't see what you're looking for you can send us a part request on the website it sends us an email of exactly what you're looking for as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one yes

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 136,537

Keywords: Mazda, Mazdaspeed miata, Miata, Mx-5, Mx5, NB, NB1, NB2, 1.8, BP, Turbo, NA, NA6, NA8, Fire, Will it Run?, Getting old car started, burned car, burned out car, electrical diagnosis, diag, immobilizer, MSM, mazdaspeed, wiring, diagnosis, won't start, won't crank, fire, damage, damaged, 2004, 2005, Flying miata, turbo kit, install, repair, timing belt, vvt, head, swap, how to, hp, specs, wheels, engine, motor, for sale, part out, parts, totalled, fixing, fix, abandoned, parked for years, on fire, car fire, first start

Id: j-DW7YzzyYs

Length: 63min 18sec (3798 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 16 2022