Assembly and Turning of a Segmented Bowl

[Music] uh hello i want to talk to about the next piece i'm going to do this is the base of it and this over here is going to be the main body of obviously a segmented bowl so uh what i've done here i've laminated the segments two different ways here like the pie shapes with the laminations going this way and here uh if you look at the side see the laminations are going horizontally and i expect that's going to be a rather interesting result which we'll find out as we go this surface though is going to be mounted to the base here and i'll flatten this surface probably on my 6 by 48 belt sander but what i wanted to show you here this you see the base here where i've laminated it with 200 angle one straight and i expect that's going to be an interesting result when i cut the bowl shape into this section for the bottom as you can imagine it's going to be like so yeah so but what i wanted to run this video for is first i centered you can see that ring there and i've shown this before where i center using uh my little pointer here in space and then as i rotate on this rotating base i can get that to running true then once i know that the face plate is running true which i've drawn this on the lathe so i know it's running true to the lathe then whatever i center up here will be centered on the lathe the main interest for that was to get this set the this line here running dead on center to the bowl so that everything's balanced in the base and uh once i cut the circle out on the band saw and i have the face plate and waste block centered relative to the lathe then when i center this onto here i know when i go to the lathe it'll be dead on center the way i flatten this out will not be on the belt sander i'll do it on the lathe that way there i know that it's going to be perfectly flat when the bowl is finished nothing will be on an angle here so with that we can go to the lathe now and i'll show you how i simply just make this flat on the lathe uh one thing about that when i go on the lathe and turn this flat the main area that has to really be flat is just out here where the bowl is going to rest on it if the center is a little bit dished in it doesn't matter because that's what's going to happen later anyway anyway we'll discuss all that on the lathe so let's go to that well now that we uh have this on the lathe we're ready to start turn the lathe on here and i'm going to uh round it off and uh also then of course flatten this out and uh let's move along here i like to turn fairly fast as you can see and take another pass here now like i said i can dip in a bit on towards the center as long as i have the area where the bowl is going to sit flat this is a i just use a straight edge method i just looked down there and i could tell i'm not quite there right about in this section here i like a good uh tight invisible joint sometimes i'll use a little shear scraping method here just to shave it down [Applause] okay now i think i'll uh go ahead and make this completely round and what what this is for is a good reference for when i uh center this back on the rotating table which we'll go through later [Applause] and pretty much close enough i don't have to really make it perfect as long as i know that i can reference this with the pointer now we can go back to the uh bench get this centered on the rotating table and then we'll center the actual body of the bowl onto this that way there everything will be lined up okay now that i'm set to go i've got the piece of veneer i've got the uh main body and i've got this now what i've done first is i have this pointer just on a mag base but it's there's no metal here it's just a heavy base and i put it on the outside rim and spin this and i verified that the face plate and the base everything that was turned on the lathe is now turning perfectly on center here now i'm ready to put this in place and i'll glue it up here now as you do this obviously one of the key points to keep in mind is you don't want to shift this on the rotating table so you use light touches and you go slowly and make sure you don't inadvertently bump things and such as that now when i glue this i like to put a little bit on each surface and uh it just gives me assurance that everything's coated and the wood is soaking in and not going to pull glue away to such an extent that you don't get good contact good adherence uh try not to put too much of course but i don't mind wasting glue if it means that the piece comes out right because uh overkill on glue is something that's easy to correct but if you don't get enough that's not so easy to correct in fact once it's together it's pretty much impossible so put this in place here and i just press down a little bit just to try and start giving it good advantage now you see i got a little crack there but obviously when this is all together that will be absolutely invisible so this is you see how that push out goes in towards that center hole which is one of the advantages of having it there now i'm going to coat the top surface here of this piece of veneer you can see how the rotating table kind of makes the glue spreading a bit easier because you just kind of spin it around and just spread it all about and i will now coat this piece with glue and again i don't have to really push the glue out to the outside edge here so much because that's gonna be hanging out in midair anyway so i just get this kind of generously supplied now this is where i like to have plenty of glue not only because i want to make sure everything's going to stick but at first as you start positioning this the glue acts like a little liquid bearing and allows you to start moving things about and positioning properly so first placement and as you get familiar with this method your first placement tends to start getting more and more accurate now as you can see here i'm putting my pointer out here and i tend to i like to pick a lamination point instead of the outside edge i'll pick a lamination point go 180 degrees and i can see okay i want to move this so this is where i hold my fingers on the face plate and move it about half the distance then i'll glue my pointer and then i'll do the 180 again and then i do 90. and uh you do try to do that halfway type judgment call on the differential now i'll just go back and forth like this until as i move it about the variations in the very individual pieces of lamination seem good i seem to have one piece that's a little bit of an outlier so that's one of those instances where there's not much you can do about it but as you play with it and then as i really get close i'll take a moment to push down on it a bit and then i'll check again now i can still move it but i'm starting to pull it in to where it's going to start sticking that's what i want now you see i got to move that so that's where uh this method allows you to keep moving back and forth and as you go and the glue is on there longer longer you'll feel it start to take hold and uh that's fine now because it's looking really good now these lamination pieces are horizontal so their placement won't matter anyway but they're going to be pulled in along with the rest of this as you go it's these uh little pie pieces that are of greatest importance and concern so now i'm pushing down pretty hard and uh still gonna have to check because when you push down typically you'll get a little shifting and uh that's just the nature of this kind of work now i'm about ready to put a weight on it this is where it starts getting real because now it's really going to want to start sticking so as when i put the weight on there that's when i'll start my real serious checking and once it's uh you're satisfied that it's pretty much good that's where you just walk away and you let time do its job to secure the thing in position and i think we're just about there so that's uh my method for getting something like this properly glued up and now i can just walk away from it and leave it there probably overnight and then we move on to the turning now some of these pieces that i do segmented like this i will um put a top ring on it but this one is nice and busy if you will it's got a lot of segmentation in it and i think i'm just going to leave it like this when i turn that top lip and roll it over you're going to see all these interesting laminations really pop and take on their shape with the curvatures and uh this is going to be a a very interesting bull so uh that's it for now and uh the next thing is to turn it that's it well now that the bowl is fully uh glued up and set for a while i figured i'd give you a bird's-eye view start shaping this i'm going to start on the outside i think i want to have a rollover lip on this i'll show you how that works later first off i'm just going to start making it round that the noise you hear is the glue over the drip here that's hitting the tool rest that'll disappear very quickly i'll see here [Music] taking a bit of too big of a bite there so just back off [Music] this should be getting fairly round here you can see how some of the [Applause] intersections are coming out [Applause] and what we do now is just keep wearing it down this is a oak and mahogany once we get a little deeper in there will be some maple to see [Music] [Music] so i think i'll speed it up a bit now i'll start getting into that foot a little bit i think [Music] that's starting to uh look a little bit more like a bowl you can see i'm starting to get into some of the other wood here this i believe is snake wood which when i put a finish on it should be pretty pretty nice so i'm just going to keep going like this and uh when i get a little further along i might show you some more hope you like it well as you can see i started to define the undercut for the lip i've rolled this edge over a little bit i still got to come down with the diameter here but the way i start defining this is with this tool here and let's do that a little bit so now i have to anticipate coming in here a bit and of course the uh as i said this diameter has come down a bit more we'll start working that and when i have a a bowl like this where i'm not going to be putting a cap ring on you're going to see all the segments from the end which is very nice [Music] if you don't put a cap ring on you can see all that on the roll over lip and the roll over lip gives just more area for it to show [Applause] so as i go along you see it's starting to develop a bit so this whole diameter will come down much smaller and show more of the lamination layers on these segments and uh i'll keep going in that direction i figured i'd stop and let you see what i've done so far you see how it's starting to take shape now i've moved this surface in a bit and uh made the foot smaller you see what i'm talking about with this rollover lip here and you come around to the inside i'll do the light around here maybe give you a better lighting so starting to take shape now i want to do the outside so then i know how far i can pull the inside surface out so that i uh get the wall thickness i'm targeting so now i'm going to put most of my efforts in the inside hollowing this out and but you can see how that this is looking here it's really starting to not only take shape but you can see the dramatic uh lamination layers really start to pop and of course when you put a finish on it's even better so i'm going to move along okay we got the outside defined as i said but now i want to do the inside with the outside as a target now i have a diameter to shoot for for the inside just to give the wall thickness that i want so there's a lot of hollowing to do here i'm going to use the tool i make because uh with these flats that are in there from the segments this will round it off quickly and it also allow me to define the bottom curvature that will uh become the final piece and then i can go with the finishing cuts later so let's get this spinning and this is uh like before just a process of wearing it out we're wearing it down i guess you can hear it when it gets to those flaps but the nice thing about this tool is it's not as strongly affected as your standard bulb valve would be a nose and i can cut as you can see in both directions here [Music] and you get a lot of shavings [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] i am suspended over the tool rest a bit but that's just the way it has to be at this point i will move it in as i get more of this hollowed out because for one thing i'll have some more room for the cast iron tool rest in fact i think i can tuck it in a little bit right now and uh just have to make sure i'm not rubbing so then [Music] there we go and again it's just difficult sometimes to maintain the discipline of not going too fast i think i'll take a break here and sharpen this bit so i'll be right back [Applause] okay i'm back and uh let's continue you can see it's uh a little more willing to cut now and since i'm doing the oak i'm gonna have to pause several times to sharpen this now that glue really likes to bite if you get past that though you can start to sweep on the bottom and like i said this is uh particularly when you get into that glue you have two things going against you because until you get that glue cut away you have not only the glue but all those flats are still on the segments down there so you gotta fight those now here is where finding the center height is uh important i think i have to adjust this you can see some of those chips of glue in there [Applause] you can also see the segments are starting to look very nice now i've got a three-eighths to half inch yep on wall thickness but i still get to get that center nub there we go i'm happy that the center line on the bottom as you can see is pretty much dead center which is what i wanted now is when those chips are starting to accumulate on the side here [Applause] yeah now it's looking pretty good so uh guess we'll just keep going like that [Applause] i can tell this is already gotten dull and you can tell that the chips are finer i can tell by the fact that i actually have to put some force on the tool so what i'm going to do is take the bit and flip it around because i sharpen both ends that's one of the advantages of this so won't be too long to be cutting again and then here we go you see when i swept across the bottom and started coming up the side you didn't hear those flats anymore all right let's see how it's looking oh yeah now there's still these you can tell that i still got the glue points there so i still have more wall thickness to lose here i'm just going to keep going like this and uh when i get up just about done i'll bring you back now i have been working out a little bit you see that i think uh all the glue points are out of the bottom there and uh been working on the uh wall thickness and also finish now this bit has been sharpened i'm just going to try to take a nice light sweeping cut which actually gives very nice finish [Music] and uh took most of the variations in the wall out but i still have one here i can see i got to wear that down a bit so now i'll just be working on making sure that this has no real grooves or anything in it the wall thickness is still fairly beefy so uh but i i just i might leave it like that because i like where the wall comes up on these segments here if i make it thinner that'll move this back and i like this uh sort of a design on the top so i think we're going to leave it there i'm just going to smooth it out and then sand it and this bowl is just about going to be ready to put finish on remove from the face plate and uh when i turn the foot i think i might bring it back to show you how i put this in the grippers and finish the bottom well i've made progress as you can see it's just about finished i've sanded it down to about 400 grit which is plenty and i'm liking the shape and the design so now what's going to happen is i'm going to cut this off the face plate and then i'm going to put a coat of finish on the inside and the top lip to protect it because that's where i'm going to grab it next to turn the foot and then uh i'll bring you back and we'll turn the foot well i've gone ahead and put some finish on it mostly just to protect the surface here i didn't really spray any finish on the outside yet and that protected it while holding it for the next steps then i cut it off the face plate you can see i did it on my band saw and i always hold it with a vise or something never try to hold the face plate by hand and just guide it through because if the blade catches at all it's going to try to rotate it pull out of your hand and it'll end badly so now ready to mount it in the cold jaws and i've got them set already i put it down in here i've already checked to see that the lip is going to clear the flange of the gripper if that was not the case then i have these uh spacers that i make that will fit in here like so they just engage that hole and there's four of them of course you put them on all four jaws that'll hold it up and you still have enough room to grip it but as it sits now uh i can go ahead and tighten this up and i usually do it on the bench here and then i'm ready to go to the lathe and i'll do the final tightening on the lathe so let me get you set up on there and we're gonna turn a nice foot on this thing well i'm ready to go so first step of course will be just to flatten it and then uh turn the uh sort of a recess into it and put my concentric lines that i like to sign in and then it'll be ready for sanding [Applause] so one thing i want to show you is that there's just about zero run out so that means i'm holding it right nicely on center you come about where i want to be [Music] [Music] like to check to make sure i got all the cut lines out which i do and uh one piece of maple here is a bit curly that's going to uh give me a little bit of tear out but i think part of that is my tool is dull a little bit doesn't feel especially dull but i think i'm gonna go sharpen it and i'll be right back [Applause] okay let's uh take another pass at this now i'll spin it up a bit faster that tends to give a nicer surface too [Music] see how that looks yeah a bit better now i think that's far enough along where i just want to start making my recess and that's where i'm going to go back to my standard tool here and drop this tool rest back a little bit and down a little bit i'm going to start working that recess in actually i'm down too far i like to really be careful when i'm coming on the center of a bottom of a bowl like this you don't want to have a mishap [Music] i don't like to take too big of hogging cuts here that's when you will get a rougher finish and tear out and such which creates more work it's just better to take your time and wear it down nice and slow now for the final cut you'll see if i can turn this tool around the turn the bit around in the tool if it's a sharper because i could tell this has got a little bit of doll from the last time i used it and uh yeah i think you got a good edge on this end so get it back in here so we can get moving here if you do turning you know this is part of the nature of things at times you have to pause and make sure the tool has the edge on it that you need [Music] you can't compensate with extra pressure when you're working wood make this radius a little tighter i think that's gonna be about right yeah that looks nice a little bit of sanding there and uh it'll be good but i think now is when i'm also going to put that little signature detail in the bottom i have a smaller tool i have to raise the tool rest up just a little bit it would still work but it's better to have it right there we go okay now it's a little bit of a tedium of sanding but it shouldn't take too long because that's not a bad surface to begin with and this ball will be done that's all see you next time you

Channel: SegmentedTurner

Views: 9,365

Rating: 4.687151 out of 5

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Id: 5GRALrrqolQ

Length: 40min 17sec (2417 seconds)

Published: Fri May 21 2021