Another shop mutilated this board - I got the data (and ROYALLY trolled myself)

hey everybody hope y'all doing really good today i'm working on an iphone 7 plus that was sent here for data recovery hello i have an iphone 7 plus i took my phone into a technology repair shop to replace the charging port mic they tried fixing it ended up screwing up something on the motherboard while working on it sent it off to a motherboard guy who said he thought the star chip was messed up but he couldn't fix it after three weeks of waiting they returned my phone not even put back together with a messed up motherboard and looks like now has a messed up battery my main hope is to get the videos and pictures anything else like contacts would be amazing whatever can be recovered i am thankful for thank you so much now i already have the board out of this thing and i will say whenever i was taking it apart the battery is swelled up like the battery is swelled up like this you know classic swelled up battery now when i first open this phone i was surprised to see that the trinity ic is actually missing and somebody has installed some micro jumpers here now once i got the board out and flipped it over i was even more surprised to see that it looks like somebody sort of approached the tristar area here with like a pair of pliers or something it's sort of just like it's had the metal bracket here peeled away from it now right away it looks like somebody here was chasing down a short we have a couple of capacitors missing right here i'm kind of bummed to see that we've got these two little ics missing here we're going to have to get something going on there because i've got a feeling we're going to need those in order to be able to transfer the data off of here so i'm going to say that it does look like beyond a shadow of a doubt somebody has been messing with the star chip here and they've also left us some of their some other fuzz let's get some of that out of the way here so aside from the tristar area i've also found that this board is missing capacitors all over the place we have a capacitor that has been plucked out here we have a capacitor missing here here here here wait no just here here another one missing down here this sticker here has already been cut which means somebody has already or most likely already had this cpu shield off of here i'm going to say that they probably did so we have got stuff raked off the board all over the place we've got a tristar area that looks like it's been you know maybe i'm not i'm not quite sure but just like maybe the tristar area has been messed with okay back up here what what was the original problem like what what did this guy say originally replace the charger port mike let's see if we can figure out okay let's go ahead and just tackle some of these missing caps here i'm going to be using diode mode here today i am going to put my red probe on ground and use my black probe to do the probing and we're getting a .004 out here i think it's time to get some new multimeter probes again okay and then in here we're getting a 0.4 that is actually a normal reading i'm not sure why they have removed those caps maybe it was just like i don't know russian roulette or something like why the heck are those caps missing all right let's try let's try some of these other ones let's get down in here and check this one zero zero that shorted on that side but it might actually be ground so let's check the other side zero zero that is absolutely shorted on both sides let's have a look at flex board view and let's just see what line that cap is on we're missing the cap right next to q2101 which is c2114 it's a vdd main cap this board has a short to ground on vdd main let's just have a look at this little short circuit problem with some thermal imaging shall we we're going to hook up our ground clamp there now one thing that i really like about flexboardview is the way that it draws a freaking line to everywhere that a network is connected to so for this little test i'm going to grab c let's just use c3405 here let's go ahead and set our power supply down to about a volt and i'm going to drop the amperage because i really don't know where this thing is shorted let's just give it 300 milliamps and see if the thermal camera will turn this up for us so let's turn the power supply on and then we're going to give this thing one volt 300 milliamps right here just using it up i'm not really seeing anything that jumps out at me so let's go ahead and set this up for three amps and at one volt it's not actually capable of drawing three amps it's only drawn uh 680 milliamps which that actually should be enough to narrow this down and we've got this little piece of debris here that is just getting dangerously close to something that is not supposed to be touching so let's get this out of the way so we're not making much heat yet let's move this thermal camera on up here and look at this end of the board uh we are starting to get some warmth here near the top end of the board right okay so i'm gonna take the power off right now we're at 690 millibig ones power's off oh there's the heat going away let's do it once more here's power on power off power on power off power on power off do you see what i see it would appear that this short is toward the top end of the board and not the bottom end of the board which would mean this board may have been absolutely completely mutilated for no reason so the thermal camera suggests that we have a short somewhere up here around this little main cap area here which you know that's something that's really commonly shorted but you know if i didn't know any better i'd say that wi-fi ic has a bulge in it right is the wi-fi i see bulged um i'm not sure but it may just be my imagination playing tricks on me making me think that the wi-fi ic is bulged right here i just i feel like there's a i just i feel like that's the spot i i don't know it just looks fishy let's go ahead and get that cpu shield off of here shall we so to remove this shield the absolute very first thing that i do is remove this little strip of adhesive right here we just apply a little bit of heat stick the blade in or stick the tweezers under it and it slides right off there we've got some weird blocks here on top of the shield what in the world is that definitely came off there really easy so under the cpu shield i'm not seeing anything too visibly crazy i have seen some of them with this audio i see here shattered you know various caps and other things damaged in here but this one actually looks pretty good i'd like to say that the short that i'm running into here is caused by this prior rework however it seems to be getting more hot up here what is this black ooze let's just do this little thermal camera test again and give it some more power i'm going to double our voltage here i've cranked it up to 2 volts and we're going to allow it to have up to 3 amps let's see what we get well that wi-fi ic area sure does get hot did they mutilate this over something silly i'm pretty well sure that wi-fi ic is bulging maybe it's the cap next to it but i think that ic is bulging and it's almost like oozing out some sort of ominous fluid so let's use some alcohol here to try to hone this down a little bit this cap here is also on vdd main so we can put our voltage in here let's get everything here good and wet with isopropyl alcohol and see what gets hot i think i actually see solder balls and this ooze that's coming out of that wi-fi i see hmm boy that i see sure does get hot fast doesn't it so we're drawing a pretty solid two amps at two volts let's just go ahead and give this four volts oh yeah yep let's zoom in on this cracker and here it comes start the music here we go anybody got music for boiling wi-fi all right so we get all sorts of heat there so now i think it's pretty safe to say that this phone was probably having battery drain issues due to like a wi-fi ic short that was probably causing it to get hot drain fast maybe even cause it tour like whenever they were plugged into the charger it was showing it was charging but the voltage you know but the percentage was still going down um so it wound up in a shop or a couple of shops and this thing has had the charging port messed with it's had the board is like oh it's completely mutilated so back over here looking at flex boardview paul doesn't pay me to brag about this software he does give it to me for free but i do believe this piece of software is absolutely gorgeous so let's have a look here at wlan rf so if we select one of these lines coming out of wlan rf and we click on this little pdf search feature here and we can just click that line to search it a couple of times until we get to the part of the schematic we need to be at and here we go we are at the wi-fi bluetooth ic and it looks like vdd main is actually hooked directly to that ic let's poke around here in diode mode and see if we can find anything else interesting so we know we do have a bulge here in this wi-fi ic it's like it's actually got solder pushing out of it we do have a .003 short to ground on vdd main but look here this little coil over here also has zero zero three on both sides so srlvx1 and srlvx2 so l7600 rf this thing sort of sits off to the side here off of the main wi-fi ic and i cannot really give you a good reason as to why i'm about to do this other than i've done it before i'm just trying to get rid of that little short issue that we have without removing the wi-fi ic since we are getting a direct short to ground right here as well i'm gonna just i'm gonna go ahead and try to pull this and see if that makes any difference honestly looking at the schematic and seeing what the board view shows where this thing's connected there's no good reason why this would actually make any significant difference now to get this little nuisance off the board i'm going to begin warming it up with hot air a little bit of flux on here and then right off the bat here we're going to begin lowering its melting temperature i'm going to start flooding this with some low melt i'd like this to come off the board really really stinking easy oh it looks like i put way too much on there that's going to be okay all right we've got that off the board now let's see if we still have a main short no surprise there we're still getting a .004 so vdd main is definitely still shorted 0.05 there point zero zero nine there so to get rid of this little nuisance of a short we will need to remove the wi-fi ic from the board this is just all to get this thing back to a point where it was before it went into the other shop well not really back to where it was but this is just to solve the original problem and we can start dealing with everything else that was created i mean this wouldn't have been like an easy super easy recovery board like removing the wi-fi ic or even replacing it that's a i mean it's a pretty significant thing to go through it's not just like removing one capacitor or something from the board um this is actually a significant short to ground here but boy talk about going after the wrong area of the board they went after tristar and trinity at the other end of the board when this board actually has a wi-fi ic fault my hot air is set at 225 c and air flow is 65 i'm probably a little bit too hot right now because if i really cranked it down and really kept the air on here this is actually hot enough to start causing damage air should be a little cooler than this for removing glue i'm being impatient today though there we go all right we're getting ready to start pouring the coals to this and yank this wi-fi see off the board i just got to trim around the remaining edges here and give us a place to slip our tool into there we go i'm going to go ahead and set my hot air on 400 degrees c with an airflow of 40. and we're going to begin warming this up now prepare yourselves for a lesson in ball squeeza on the left here you will see some components that have not had their balls squeezed right here these components these are all coded in epoxy now as i slip in my tool to remove this wi-fi ic i've got to get this board extremely hot and i think you'll see over here on the left if you watch we will most likely cause just a little bit of ball squeezage now we're not doing it on purpose we want to try to do as little ball squeezing as possible oh too hot see this we just caused ball squeezage so we took an otherwise normal area of board and just squeezed out a bunch of balls everywhere so that's that's bad okay that's that's what we don't want to do all right so i'm going to go ahead and warm this right on up and begin lifting this ic up off of here and you'll notice the solder squeezing out of the epoxy here on the left side of your screen some days when i'm a little more on point i can do a better job than that but uh oh geez almost there a little bit more yes wi-fi i see delete and we did some pad lifting up here that's gonna be okay we're gonna we're gonna do the right thing and just pretend like we didn't see it and here you go everybody here is my ball squeezage i'm actually pretty embarrassed by that that's that's actually significantly too hot now we do have to worry about the cpu on the other side of the board we don't want to cause any ball squeezage there or this board will need a cpu reball but i'm happy to say we don't even have the babiest tiniest little eensy beansy teensiest little bit of shred of ball squeezage let's see if our little short to ground is gone shall we so on vdd main we are now getting a 0.69 it is still shorted what is this now this looks this looks good oh yeah this looks absolutely lovely here we've got some pads that are seemingly completely and totally welded let's see what those pads are we're going to consult magical flex board view here and just have a gander at what those pads are here oh what do you know we've got a whole row of bdd main pads with ground on both sides so looking at the board we can see that we have one two three four and five are just completely totally welded here and then looking at flex board view we have one two three four and five they're just vdd main they should be okay with being welded unless they've gotten into the ground plane of the board who wants to see if we can make some smoke all right here we go applying four volts three amps and one two three oh come on i wanted fire i'm not going to get a bunch of clicks like this well i'm pretty confident that's where the shorts at anyway so let's just let's use our short remover 3000 oh yeah look it's like welded to the ground plane down in here one day i would like to upgrade my capture hardware so i can get this a little better for you but look at this we've got we have vdd main i guess like solder squeezed everywhere here and it's actually stuck to the ground plane look at this charcoal mess all right let's get that out of there now there is a lot of carbon or whatever this burnt char is around this i have found this stuff to be conductive and will actually cause a short i probably shouldn't be just like ripping this apart like this okay so i've additionally mutilated this and now i want to see if i can clean off some of these here carbon deposits looks really good actually looks brand new and now red probe on ground black probe on vdd main and we are getting a 0.33 all right so we have actually pretty pretty confidently just solved the original problem with this board so now i can attempt to power this board on and see what happens i know i should probably spend some time with that tristar area because we have some stuff missing there that's probably going to be really important to be able to transfer data but let's just go ahead and slip this thing into a housing and see what happens we have got the power supply on set to four volts three amps we are going to press the button to boot and one two three fire fire okay no fire 80 milliamps 200 milliamps oh wait we're missing trinity there's no chance i mean no chance in this thing having backlight get back over here i need to see do we have image you know let's just watch the supply 200 milliamps 200 and 300 milliamps 500 this phone is booting oh we have no image so let's have a look at this trinity area after all shall we trinity is m2800 m2800 is basically a collection of inductors see in the past you would have a separate coil for backlight you would have a separate coil for the arc driver and what apple has done they have taken all of these well not all but a handful of various coils from around the board and they have just like crammed them together into this conglomerate of a thing that they call trinity and on the iphone 7 plus that is m2800 so looking at the schematic here is m2800 and you can see that it has a whole crapload of ground and a handful of coils that have just been combined into this package so vdd main comes into it and then you've got the tigris buck lx so here's here's the the tiger's buck coil here's the arc lx here's here's that coil we've got a coil here for the speaker ramp so trinity is really just like a whole bunch of coils now somebody has done a little bit of micro surgery here and they have hooked up some jumpers and let's just look and see what they have jumpered so at the far left side here we've basically got we're starting on the second row the first one down if we look at flexboard that is x2 okay pin x2 arc lx1 what's the next one down okay the next one down that is also an arc line these are things for the flash okay on the on on the back of the phone like flashlight right arc driver please correct me if i'm wrong so then we've got they skipped a row and then they went on to the next one which is going to be pin x5 here this is speaker amp lx this is a coil for the speaker amp and then they also have a jumper on the next one down here that is going to be for also for the speaker amp so why are they going after the flashlight and the speaker amp so also looking at trinity here it looks like uh both backlight coils are tied up here but i'm not seeing anything for image we've got boy this buck lx that could give us some issues because we need a good usb connection anything related to tigris is going to make me really nervous about this thing not rebooting and and giving me i got to get the data off this phone that that's what i'm doing here today so technically it should be booting without backlight i didn't see that let's poke around with a multimeter i'm just going to zip around these display pins and see if i can find anything that really jumps out at me 0.47 second pin is an open line is that normal yeah that just goes over the other other connector i'm just looking for anything unusual any open lines you know grounds that aren't supposed to be there now we do have a ground here that's one two three four five six pins over that's probably right okay so we can actually work off of that i think it's more likely to say that this phone was booting with image but no backlight okay now we're getting over here into these image chokes so we got ground data data [Music] ground data data ground and i am going to go ahead and check all these because i have had iphone 7s with missing data lines before going back to the cpu background data okay so that's all okay i think it's pretty pretty likely that this phone is booting without backlight and not without image i thought i already had one of these ready to go there we go now we have a display without backlight let's just see if we can tell if this is a no backlight issue or no image issue now we're giving it our own backlight aha see it is a no backlight issue all right let's see if this thing boots up i'm just going to go ahead and leave my backlight fixture 3000 laying there come on baby show me a lock screen and then we can move on and start trying to get usb working shall we actually got an iphone 7 plus that i'm using for the backlight on an iphone 7 plus we're still hung at apple which with everything that we've got going on in the tristar area no we're not hung at apple no more fellas look at this we're actually up to lock screenage with working touch that is unbelievable huh and i've got a passcode what are the odds that usb is actually going to connect i don't think the odds are very good so we had some pretty important stuff missing right here at least some of these things look a little bit important what does flexboardview have to say about this oh tell me oh wise flex one all right q2701 q2700 these are both missing i don't think that we're gonna get away with not having those on the board but it did boot without it however it did not draw a lick of charging current and that's okay if i approach this with a full battery let's just see if i can get a usb connect out of this thing that's a good thing we got those jumpers on the arc driver and the speaker amp i really don't think we're going to get usb detect but i'm going to go ahead and just kind of try it anyways let's get our beloved our naked screen assembly here not even a backlight box or 3d touch or home button or anything we've just got a raw screen let's just check the voltage on this battery to be safe 4.1 that's pretty much a full semi-full lipo let's get our backlight fixer back under the screen here okay we are up to a lock screen i've entered the passcode the phone is unlocked it's warning me about touch id usb yeah no usb connect no surprise there right so i now have this board booting i've gotten rid of the what i believe to be the original short which was the wi-fi ic up here but now to get the data out of this thing i'm faced with needing to deal with all of the carnage that's been created and attempts in previous attempts at trying to figure this out we've got to get usb connection working on this if i am to transfer all of the files off of it so let's just have a look at that tri-star area once amora and see what we can do about all this carnage so having a look at flex board view here we know that we're missing a couple of pins we're pretty well missing the same exact pin on both of them okay so act diode to comp out that goes over here and hooks up to u2701 so i've got a couple of options here to restore connection to these missing pads up here i could basically i can remove this chip over here and i could route a jumper from this top left pin here up to here and just kind of zip between these two i could also maybe get down in here with a blade and do some digging oh i see goodness hey we've got some visible traceage here that i can get to so we actually have a visible trace here that we can solder to and then we also have one right here that we can solder to so this is actually going to be two separate jumpers and my goodness look it just they completely just peeled like scalped the top layer off of that board that is unbelievable well i mean it i i do believe it all right we're going to use some 44 gauge wire there we go we've got those ready to go all right now we've got to solder us a wire in here and we are going to we're just going to repair this pad looks good good ish there's one all right let's get this other one on here get it tacked down on there i still got some of the shielding left on this wire oh why do i just nitpick this stuff there we go let's get it right back into place there and get it right down on the board there's two all right let's give it a little bit of a snippy here i think i cut that off just a little bit too short but that's going to be okay clean up some of this muck make it so we can see what's actually going on and roll up these wires give it a little snippy here all right so we've got some nice beautiful wires soldered on here i don't like that i can see there's a little bit of visible conductor and the bottom of that crater right there i just i really really really don't like that let's just get some mask in there and cover that up definitely don't want to accidentally solder anything to that because i don't have the foggiest clue as to what that is cure that up for just a minute with uh uv lamp let's see if we can turn these into pads i think this one is probably just a buzz too long maybe let's take just the nip off of that and we'll just roll this right on up into a nice beautiful new pad let's get this other one rolled up nice and gracefully here and hopefully i don't twitch and rake a whole bunch of stuff off the board or do anything too crazy oh yeah this is looking really good i think we're gonna take it there we go oops i like the second one a little better than the first one maybe we'll just loosen the first one up a little bit see i know when i nitpick i usually just make things worse but i'm gonna just sit here and do this anyways all right we got our little snakes built now it's time for some green uv mask holy mackerel this was the lewis rossman of green uv mask that was way too much mask i mean that was the the minimal amount of uv mask possible i'm just trying to make sure that we've got these wires completely covered and we've got the mask all down in underneath it so that when it solidifies it it holds the wire nice and secure all right that's pretty well got that one done and this is just oh geez this is way too much there we go so the mask has cured up now we're going to go ahead and just scratch the layer off the top here and reveal our nice shiny new pads okay so that's all looking pretty good it looks pretty much brand new and let's go ahead get this shined up and ready to receive some components i'm gonna get just a little bit of tinge on there perfect about the same amount that we see on these other pads that's that that's looking pretty good there now i'm going to need those two components and that's not something that i keep in stock so i'm going to go ahead and steal them off of this lovely donor board right here so here's what this area is supposed to look like now i've already you know this is a donor board that i've done a lot of practice on it's missing a bunch of stuff including this tristar ic here but on this board you can see that this antenna flex cable here is intact well it's not really a flex cable it's more like a pcb this right here is a signal cable it's actually a multi-cable that runs from the top of the board to the bottom and i see we just cut one trace here and if you get down in here there's actually multiple layers of traces this is actually a multi-layered thing so like if you chunk this off the board or damage it it is a it's a pretty painstaking process to to repair it and our customers board it's just like that whole entire area that whole chunk of that thing is missing that's just terrible so to make this thing work we're going to need these two components here clean them up just a tad so that i can be sure that the orientation is right so pin one is towards our top left on both of them that's actually really easy to see all right we are just almost up to temp here and we're just going to swipe both of those suckers right off the board i'm not actually going to be reballing these i'm just going to kind of try to tint them up and make them semi-uniform i mean it is important to have semi-symmetrical balls but this is going to be okay so let's get some flux on here and we're just going to take some 6337 letted solder and just kind of graze the pads here and we're just going to fluff these up some we're not going to put legitimate symmetrical balls on here but more like some nice fluffy pillows all right there we go so one last check on the customers board here before i cram these components on here i would like to see that we have a direct connection between these two and that also we've got somewhat of a diode mode reading here so i'm going to stick my red probe on ground and then check these couple of pins here let's just check this one 0.67 that is an acceptable semi-acceptable reading a 6-1 i would hope that we got exactly the same but i might have twitched a little bit so let me just check i'm going to make sure we've got a connection between these two because they should be the exact same thing right so one here one here we should get a zero zero zero give me yes zero zero zero okay so this all looks really good now somewhere laying on the bench i've left a couple of these little components laying and just in case anybody forgot just how small these are this is the sharpest round toothpick money can buy all right let's pick these up off of here try not to crack them there we go so now we have our brands spanking new ics on the board we've got our pads repaired let's just see if i can get these to sit on the board where they go both of them at the same time preferably that would be kind of nice there we go hmm this uh this might actually be a little bit tricky i'm just going to keep warming this up while i struggle to keep these on top of their pads and hopefully whenever it melts they'll sit right exactly where they're supposed to come on baby i better slow that hot air down just a smidgen there we go there's a smidgen we are now at an air flow of 25 with 340 degrees c i should have probably just did these one at a time here we go almost there come on there you there you go there you go oh yeah perfect absolutely perfect and if it wasn't bad enough that i've got them on here crooked and sideways and everything else i've got to stab them with my tweezers too okay a little more heating here i want to make sure we get these nice and straight that bottom one's kind of crooked and if you know me i just can't handle these components being crooked the data won't transfer near as fast if this bottom component is crooked almost there yeah there we go all right now what else did we have on the other side of this board there was some other ruckus going on oh yes that's right we had this other conglomerate mess going on where we're missing this big o trinity i see so one of these lines here is the tiger's buck lx line and i'm about 99.23 percent certain that we are going to need that in order for this thing to get through a full data transfer now it may actually get a usb connect without that i know it's not going to charge the battery without that let's just do something about it so tiger's buck lx used to be a coil that was pictured on the schematic here between between this buck lx line and also vdd main but now it's just labeled to trinity so we don't want to deal with actually getting an entire trinity back on the board i just want to get some charge action going so i can copy some files let's just go ahead and grab us a coil off of a donor board this one should be just fine so back over to our customers board let's have a look at the board view here and see where this thing needs to go i don't see any real good way to do this without jumpers and things so let's just see let's see where we can put this thing i'm going to say here looks like a pretty good spot let's just go ahead and glob this stuff all over the place yeah that ought to be enough for now now it really doesn't matter where we put this thing we can pretty well put it anywhere we can get it to stick oh and you know what i almost forgot to insulate the pads let's be sure we don't call any shorts under that all right we've got the mask all cured up now i'm going to take my semi-metallic squeegee here and get this thing sort of like squished onto the board and we're going to make sure we use plenty of goop all the way around it so that it sticks in place nice and firm that ought to do it we'll cure that up with some mask for a good long while and i'll be right back all right this is all cured up now now we just need to get it wired up so there is our brand spanking new coil glued to the board next we're going to pick out our tigris buck lx pins now to do that i am just going to count one two three four five six seven eight nine ten okay so pins 11 12 and 13 are tigress buck lx so we can do the same thing here on the board one two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve and thirteen so all three of those pins there all right let's get some flux on here and here and there and everywhere we're going to get our wire tend up and begin getting this thing tacked down to the board a little micro pencil just doesn't quite hold up to the challenge with this heavier gauge wire seat the board up a little bit it's just marvelous the other end of that wire right over here we're just going to do a little bit of microscopic cable routing here yep right about like that let's go ahead and get some flux on here and get this soldered down to the board so now we have that side hooked up and then the other side here we just need that to go to bcc main or vdd main now switching back over here and having us a little gander at flex board view we can see if we count from the right side one two three and four we've got vdd main all over the place so i'm just gonna take my microscopic mittens and see if we can finagle this other wire right over here to where i need it to be come on baby we're gonna want this to sit right about like that with this heavier gauge wire it's like working with battery cables or something after using the 44 gauge ah yes the things we must do to get data just a little bit of microscopic mayhem here folks let's get this wire soldered down here i think we are just about to the point where i can call this done i sure hope so anyways with that big old fat wire it's really hard to get to stick come on baby we'll take it snip that right on off there now we need to make sure this one's up high enough so it's not touching this other pad what is it one two three what's the next one up looking at flex uh that would be ground so if it is touching we will have a direct short to ground here so let's check in diode mode red pro bone ground black probe on this side of that coil straight to ground dang it so this is touching somewhere i suspect right there let's just get our blade under it and see if we can cut it loose i think i soldered it to ground right here there we go yeah let's see if we got ground there now so red problem ground blackrobia damn it straight to ground why hmm maybe it's over here maybe just maybe it's right there no that's not touching i could have miscounted right let's figure out which side that short's on so to do this i'm just going to pull one of the wires off let's pull the long one off and to make life a little easier we're going to switch to the larger iron much easier and now we are getting on the vcc main side a normal reading but then on the tigris lx side we are getting a short let's just remove this jumper just take this jumper off altogether zero one one zero one zero zero one so we have tiger's lx short everywhere there let's just get this little jumper wire right back in place so that i don't have to cut another one let me just reuse the same one it'll be fine good enough perfect looks like brand new now let's see what we can do about this little buck lx short shall we i'm no expert but it sure looks to me like somebody's been fumbling around with the tiger-size c right what else do we have on that buck lx line like there's literally a couple of test points and trinity there's absolutely nothing else there so the very next step in troubleshooting this as much as i kind of hate to do this to a running booting board this chip has to come off here we are going to have to pull the tigris ic because i believe our buck lx short is going to be under this chip it actually looks like it's sitting a little crooked anyways so i'll just warm it right on up here and then i'm gonna let the board fall out from underneath it like that and uh boy i do see a short there but it's not where i would expect it to be uh what is shorted it looks like we've just got two vcc main pins that are running together all right well with this chip off the board let's go ahead and check and see if our short is gone i don't see anything obviously shorted on the bottom of this chip so right on over to our rig job coil job here and we're going to see if we still got a short now with our tigress ic off the board that's misfortunate we still have a short okay well i guess i'm sort of drawing a blank on that one this short is probably really really really really obvious but um okay tell you what i don't need this to charge a battery i really just need usb connect let me see if with what i've done to the tristar area here if we can get usb connect which means we need to put this back on the board i'm not going to worry about the two pins that are shorted down here at the corner because those are literally on the same net they can they'll be fine move out of my way you little texas instruments that'll work let's get her back on there shall we and then uh see if we get usb connect there is this other little thing over here missing too right here i'm not really sure what that is we're just going to be slow heating this up while trying to finagle this little chip into place come on we're sort of sitting balls on top of humps and we're trying to get it to sit right at the highest point on the hump it's kind of a tricky process almost there there we go one little nudge it is good to go now to keep this thing from releasing all of its magic smoke we seriously need to disconnect vcc main or vdd main from this shorted line we're getting a 0.000 something to ground here just make sure it's still there still the case oh yeah 0 0 1 volts dc to ground on vcc main and that's because of this stinking shorted lx line so let's just get rid of it maybe we don't need it right we're just trying to get data come on you know you want to give me your your lovely data just flip over upside down and puke out your data on the bench let's see if we're still shorted on main i'm pretty sure we are not should get up three something at 0.3 so vcc main is good buck lx is still a direct short so you know let's just screw back lx let's just leave it like that see if we can get usb let's use our backlight repair in a can let's see if usb will prompt it to boot let's see if anything smokes uh oh we're getting a little warmer usb prompted the boot let's turn our sound up nice and loud here so we can hear any sort of usb connect all right we are up to the lock screen i've unlocked it but i have no usb connect now i'm not using his housing this is my housing so i know that i've got a good doc flex flip it over i got it on the other side baby all right come on rebooted okay i did get a usb connect and then an instant reboot and we're just gonna have to fiddle around with this thing until i get a backup aren't we it's a really slow boot and you know the battery data pins on this look like total crap and i didn't do anything with them this could be battery data reboots okay no usb connect i'm going to unplug the cable and flip it over plug it in nothing the phone is still responding i have touch unplug cable flip over again no usb connect that's lovely we got some other components here missing around tristar what exactly is all this mess i really don't see anything too terribly crazy missing there now i do know that we have this thing missing and i honestly don't i don't know exactly what that is let's go ahead and pull this tristar ic off the board and see what they have going on underneath it watch they never actually took it off there they just broke everything and then this is the original chip and it was just a tri-star failure all along um okay that came off really easy and i want to say that there are little to no balls on it and it also looks like we've got possibly damaged stuff so hmm let's troubleshoot okay we're gonna get the dado off with this one maybe not today but maybe by tomorrow i'm just going to shine all this up real good so that we can see what's going on and see what all connections we have or don't have so far it doesn't look too bad all right so we've got some craziness going on here we do have a missing two missing pads actually um i really don't think this one here would have made a connection the rest of these probably would have but that one there i just with the lack of balls that was going on here i really don't think that one would have made a connection let's just uh okay what is that that we have missing data pin okay let's just go ahead and reconnect that let's get this little wire soldered on here come on there we go oh come on there we go perfect all right let's clean this up with some alcohol and get ready to start building a new pad out of this hunk of wire we're just going to roll it right on up i got us a different tristar ic rebald here with some fresh leaded solder on it let's just get some flux on here and let's get us a little tri-star ic back in place shall we so we're just going to continue carefully warming this board up and we are just waiting for this ic to settle down into place and then we're going to give it a nice little nudge there we go all right now we'll see if we made any difference i'm gonna let this cool off a little bit and then uh hopefully we get the data all right here we go again we've got our backlight master 3000 in here and let's see if we get a boot prompt from usb hmm we do not let's flip it over and try again we're going to press the button to boot and one two three oops only no power supply since we're going straight from the battery we have an apple logo okay we are past the lock screen let's see if we get usb of course not why why would we let's flip it over and try the other side it's crazy it was working okay i have had a bit of a long break i had to push this thing aside and come back to it because i had other promises that i had to keep i went ahead and replaced our little reverse gate mosfet this is q 4001 but that didn't make any difference at all i have put another new new tristar ic on this thing and i've got it back to the point where it will boot from usb like when you plug in the usb cable it'll prompt this thing to start up and i actually got it to do a usb connect with itunes and trusted it and that lasted all the way up until it restarted on me and ever since it restarted i have not been able to get usb connect again just not so i'm going to try some more things on here and see if we can get this up and going and also i went ahead and replaced both of those mosfets again uh we were missing a few things here that kind of caught my eye we are missing this little thing here so i thought i would just go ahead and slap one of those back on the board and maybe that'll make a difference let's grab one of these off of a donor board we're just going to nab this one right here let's flip it around make this a little easier there we go and let's just get this little sucker put on our customers board we'll just sit it right down on there and heat it up at the same time now let's add some more we better add some more flux to that there we go and as soon as it drops down on there we're going to give it just a little bit of a nudge beautiful yeah so aside from that component right there we are missing the coils that are wrapped up here in trinity for backlight but it should be completely fine without that uh this charge lx line we're going to try it once more with this component that i just put in place here but i really do not have high hopes that that's actually going to solve it and i also wonder since i did have a behavior where i had usb connect and then not i wonder if i smoked another tristar ic so let's see what we get here battery up and now let's see if we get boot from usb and one two three oh we won't get backlight we have to use our artificial light now we are shooting for usb connect and no reboot i don't think that component i just stuck on there has anything to do with usb connect i really don't pass code still no usb connect and it rebooted exactly when i plugged in this charge cord so that is uh that's a symptom it did that to me a minute ago seems to be an awful lot of capacitors missing huh let's pull tigris off of here again which i had it off of here once before it was a clean lift i just sat it right back on let's get this off of here and do something about this lx short okay looks just as good as it did the last time so let's have a look at flex board view and let's see which of those pads is going to be responsible for this buck lx here we go so it's actually going to be four pins along this side over here and just for the sake of knowing we're going to test this for connection to ground and be sure that it is absolutely positively still shorted so with our red probe on ground and our black probe doing the probin we should get a 0.000 across all these that's really weird i'm not did i do something wrong is my meter working that meter is working no it's open like i would expect it to be and then on the other side of the board oh my goodness look at what i did oh i'm so dumb look at this i literally soldered that wire straight on the ground oh no no no no no no i was about to literally carve that row of pads off the board and rebuild this part of the circuit outside on top of the board so let's go ahead uh let's move this up here to the pins that it's supposed to be on i literally soldered that jumper straight to ground this micro pencil is not doing very good at all soldering this on like yeah okay i had this off of here once so maybe just maybe i had it right the first time and did it wrong the second time just maybe this jumper is supposed to be on this row because the other row is all ground i would say i can't believe i did that but i'd be lying hey hey now let's check and make sure that we don't have a shorter ground on this lx line what do you want to bet our little shorter ground problem is gone well will you look at that no more short to ground let's just get her hooked right back up to vcc main all right now we should get like a a 0.3 ish something reading on diode let's see what we get now that we're not soldered directly to ground 0.31 that is a good reading okay now let's uh let's go ahead and put this little tiger size see back on the board here since we had a clean lift i'm just going to sit it right back on there again that kind of looks a little bit swanky but we're gonna see how it goes okay so everything charge circuit-wise should be intact on here i have fixed this little short to ground on the lx line that i brutally created with a soldering iron and a hunk of wire and we've replaced the little mosfet thingies that were pried off of this board with a screwdriver or something i've corrected battery data pins maybe just maybe this thing will get a usb connect and stay that way now i am concerned that i've popped another tristar ic because i had usb connect and then it went away so before this is all done and said i might actually have to put one more tristar ic on here at this point in the game i am actually worried about charging current uh because everything's wired up as it should be i hope we should actually get charging current here now the battery was at 4.1 so i'm not expecting like a lot of current but we should get something in one two three wait wait where's my light all right let's get our backlight in here there we go all right now let's check charging current in one two three plug hey we're getting something better than zero oh that's a good sign 200 milliamps now keep in mind this battery is you know 4 volts it's over 4 volts it's almost 4.2 but i am happy to see that we're drawing something through usb let's see if we also get a charging tone come on baby just give me one itunes backup and i promise i will never ask you to boot again okay just one backup any minute all right we are up to a lock screen i'm not getting a charging tone or anything i have a speaker hooked up don't i zero amps charging current after i unplug the plug back in i'm going to flip it over and try the other side nope now because i did get usb connect temporarily i'm really worried that i have fried a tristar ic and then also now that the power is off we're starting to draw a tiny bit of charging current again i'm going to try one more tristar i see okey dokey this phone has all things usb connection needed in place so let's see if it will boot on usb connect it should it is no connect on that side of the cable i'm going to flip the cable over and [Music] no connect there oh boy do i have good news i slapped the new tigris ic on here i went ahead and i pulled q2701 q2700 and u-4001 back off of the board i spent some time checking continuity just to make sure we had a good connection between everything here and um everything tested good so ultimately what i did from there was just put another set of fresh components on the board and something that i did or one of the components i put on the board was bad because now we have oh isn't it magical we have usb connect let's just hear that once more oh yes i love the way you connect to usb you make me so happy yes now i am pleased to say i'm doing all this playing around because i've already got a backup of it i've already got a backup of this phone and this is a successful recovery and here is one of the very most exciting parts we actually have proper charging current so not only do we have working usb but we've actually got a properly working charging circuit with all of the carnage that's been going on on this thing so with that that is going to put an end to this video i think what happened with this board is that this was initially a wi-fi short it was confused to be a charging problem something went horribly wrong with the tristar repair and i think maybe they overheated it or something and caused like an internal short within trinity which led them to remove trinity from the board i'm really not 100 sure about that because i don't have the old trinity so let me know what you think in the comments below now this customer has asked me if i will be able to send this back to them fully repaired and although this board should be able to boot and stuff whenever they get it back there's just no way that i would stick my neck out and try to warranty all this and just sit here and i mean it's already been a pretty big task to get the data off of here so that is going to be the end of this video i really thank you all for watching let me know what you think in the comments below and i will see you next time have a good day everybody yeah without the usb connect this one would have been a really hairy deal because we don't have wi-fi which means that we couldn't have backed up the data with wi-fi this board was actually throwing a major bf over baseband so for whatever reason the baseband is not working so we could not have backed up data that way and then if usb connect would not have worked then gosh that would have put us in a really really really bad position it is a very good feeling to see something like this working properly now i'm not going to send this thing back with flux and stuff oozing all over it i am going to go ahead and clean this up you

Channel: STS Telecom

Views: 384,500

Keywords: electronics, repair, shop, iphone, logic, board, microscope, microsoldering, pcb, hot, air, smd, hakko, phone, datarecovery, data, recovery, ballsqueezage, priorattempt

Id: oFLoRKZH_wE

Length: 73min 27sec (4407 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 05 2021