Annapurna III – Unclimbed

DAVID: We want to climb the SE-ridge of Annapurna III and a helicopter is the only reasonable way to get there. Porters from previous expeditions slipped and died on the steep mountainsides when attempting the way up to basecamp by foot. And we can't risk that to happen again. HANSJÖRG: The landscape down there, all the towers! Oh, this is crazy! DAVID: Even if getting air lifted into basecamp is not our favourite option, aber der Versuchung der Annapurna III the temptation of Annapurna III is just too big to resist. HANSJÖRG: Look at that pillar! Incredible! Crazy! PILOT: It all depends on the weather. If the weather is bad I'm not coming. Or nobody else is coming. So you are on your own. HANSJÖRG: Can you still go a little bit forward to have a look at the hill over there with the boulders? DAVID: Hey Hans…Should we establish base camp down here? HANSJÖRG: This is the glacier, no? PILOT: This is the glacier. DAVID: Okay we need to decide Hans! HANSJÖRG: Okay…just a little bit forward… Is it possible to take this spot there? PILOT: Right here? I think that's a good one. DAVID: Ok, let's drop the stuff down here. HANSJÖRG: It's the best option we have. DAVID: It’s bigger than I thought. But it’s beautiful. The South East Ridge of Annapurna III. Rising up 2800m from the foot of the mountain to the summit. Strong alpinists have been here, but only one party dared to take it on. However they didn't make it and it’s still unclimbed – the most spectacular ridge that I can imagine. DAVID: Up and down up and down. If you want to climb a peek over 7500m you can't just go there and climb it. You need to have a plan how to adapt your body to the high altitude and the lack of oxygen. There is nothing you can do about it – it just takes time. HANSJÖRG: So guys, what does acclimatization feel like? No answer is an answer, too. DAVID: Two weeks after we arrived at basecamp we feel that we are ready now. The question is: is the mountain ready for us to climb it? Deciding for the right strategy is crucial now. HANSJÖRG: Ok, I’ll call you back in an hour. Thank’s a lot, Karl! Bye! HANSJÖRG: It’s hard to say… temperature is still very low. Main problem is Sunday. Saturday would be ok. The first few hours would be fine but afterwards the weather will be closing in. Unsteady weather for the whole next week. He asked if we have a good spot for basecamp. Because it’ll be terrible weather with a lot of snow. For sure, our main problem is the descent… DAVID: The question is, if we’ll ever get a second chance like this? Because the monsoon is also closing in. Tomorrow is Tuesday. Tuesday, start climbing and get all the way up to the first serac. Wednesday, 27th: Climb as high as possible, HANSJÖRG: maybe till just below the small shoulder. DAVID: Thursday: To somewhere just below the top of the pillar. HANSJÖRG: Friday: Climb to the top of the pillar and continue to the main summit. DAVID: At least till the col. Saturday: Up to the main summit and down as quick as possible. DAVID: We're three days into the climb. The weather is not like it’s been predicted. The forecast for the next few days drastically changed to the worse. DAVID: There is no option for us but to abandon the climb. We have to make use of the last spell of good weather to get off the mountain. Anything else would be suicidal.

Channel: David Lama

Views: 3,763,482

Keywords: David Lama, Alpinist, Mountaineer, Climber, himalaya, nepal, hansjörg auer, alex blümel, annapurna, annapurna III, climbing, alpinism, south-east ridge, expedition, alpinist, annapurna 3, peak, unclimbed

Id: zp72WjMVhTQ

Length: 12min 22sec (742 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 21 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/goodkindstranger]

Thanks for sharing. I didn’t know much about David Lama or Hansjörg Auer, and this gives me insight into the type of people we lost.