Arc'teryx Presents: Baffin

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Where are we going, Brette? Well, we're rapping over the edge, going back to our base camp down by the lake. Goodbye, high camp. How many days have we been at the high camp? Oh, 20? Over 20 days? Yeah, like 17. 17 days, yeah. 17 days and all the days we were on the wall, it stormed. All the days we were at camp, it was sunny. What do you say about that? [MUSIC PLAYING] My motivation to climbing Baffin Island was really because it's a remote and unexplored area. Accessing the Stewart Valley is really difficult and most times you either approach it via ice or water. We wanted to be there during the months of June and July, which means we would approach on ice and then leave via the water, by boat. We approached the Stewart Valley via the Walker Arm just as the winter season was coming to an end, and the ice was breaking apart. We skidooed for two days. We were continually being rerouted by major cracks in the ice called leads that were pushing us way out into the ice pack. This was the very last moment that we could have gone out by sled. We almost weren't sure if we could make it in. [GRUNTS] Being at the mercy of the ice really changes your perspective and makes you think about the entire journey and not just the climbing. You have to go climbing, don't you? [LAUGHTER] We were able to connect the puzzle and make it in. And our outfitters were able to get out within that small, two-day time period. [MUSIC PLAYING] [ENGINE RUMBLING] We're officially on our own. Yeah. They were so helpful. That was awesome. Once we arrived, we were stranded there until we could get a boat to get out. Our main objective in going to Baffin Island was to free-climb on Great Sail Peak. Great Sail Peak is really the crown jewel of the Stewart Valley. It's the largest, biggest, widest wall, and it has a crowned, capped, peak summit that inspires you as soon as you see it. When we approached the Stewart Lake, you could see it in the distance on the southern side of the lake. It really was the biggest and most imposing wall from a distance. The only climbers to the Stewart Valley prior were eight climbers, and we really wanted to approach the climbing there in our own style. And that was going to be a big-wall free climbing. So we approached the objectives with a different mindset. We knew that accessing the walls was going to be logistically challenging, so we really made sure that all of our equipment was set up to be able to be used both on land and in the water. When we arrived at the Stewart Lake, the lake was ice, but there was a moat around it. We needed the raft to access the ice. So we're going to move our base camp to beneath the wall. It's kind of an approach to get to the base. So we'll hike about 10 kilometers of ice, shuttling our gear with these rafts across the frozen lake. And then we'll start climbing. Finding partners that want to do a trip for an extended period of time isn't always the easiest. But when I thought about Brette and Marc-Andre, I knew that most likely they would say yes. [CRUNCHING] When we got to the wall, there was this beautiful line that appeared to go free at least for three quarters of it. And we went for it just to see how far we could get. Once we started on the wall, we made progress quite quickly and established ourselves on the main break, the main ledge, a third of the way up the wall. Just careful with that loose block. It could kill us all. So far, we've established six pitches at the lower wall. We've been working for a few days, on and off, getting our gear up and free-climbing. [CLICKING] Right now, we are on the midway ledge on Great Sail Peak, and we hauled all three haul bags up here. It took us a little bit to establish the lower route. And we freed all the pitches and then put in a big hauling day to get all of our stuff up here. And now we can commence the upper wall. [MUSIC PLAYING] I hadn't climbed with Brette before. I knew Brette through Marc, but I knew that she had talent, and skill, and super-strong free-climber. It's just having that keen, strong morale in those desperate situations. I'm going to go for it. Watch me, Josh. Come on, Brette. Come on. Everything you got. [INAUDIBLE] Come on. Come on. Everything you got. Come on. Yeah, that's it. [SCREAMS] Is there any gear marks? Just keep going. Once your feet are where your hands are, you're done. [YELLING] Now hand jams in the back. Boom. Marc is like the secret weapon. And when you encounter a page that requires some funky aid climbing mixed with free climbing, he's the one that's going to show up and get her done. [MUSIC PLAYING] [INAUDIBLE] Got a little traction in there, but-- [CHEERING] That was awesome. Dude, I'm so stoked. [INAUDIBLE] OK, Marc. Stick with you? We attempted the [? quest ?] pillar, and got shut down about 10 pitches up, and had to come back down to the main ledge, and reset our goals. Marc climbed an epic A4 button head copper-- well, leading into a copperhead seam. Took a five hour lead for Brette and Marc. We're pulling the plug. It's not going to be free-climbable. With only a week's worth left of food, we focused on the Turret and started establishing a route up that slender pillar that was going to be a route that we hoped would be a free climb. It's going to be cold, and it's going to offer a lot of challenges that you don't necessarily see outside of the Arctic. My toes are numb. [GRUNT] Come on, Brette. I got my foot caught because it's so numb. This is brutal. The storm started with winds and then a little bit of precip. And we still had hope that it would just pass because we really hadn't seen much bad weather up to that point. But after the first night of pounding winds and rain, we kind of expected that the storm was a little bit bigger, and it was going to last longer than we expected. The weather is what it is. It's the Arctic. Waiting out weather in a storm in a tent is definitely one of the low points of any expedition. And that's when all of the trickery, all of the little hacks that you learn over the years come into play. Having good music, having a good book, having good team members all help to pass those days when you're just laying on your back, looking at the ripstop, listening to wind pound your tent. [WIND AND BANGING] Well, it's day 6 on the wall and day 5 of the storm. It's so windy. And we brought stuff-- we brought equipment for seven days. Tomorrow is go-time. Yeah. We'll see how our luck goes. Because of the storm that pinned us down for five days, we really only had a day's worth of food, once the storm had passed, to get to the top. So our objective changed. At that point, our objective was just to get to the top of the pillar. We just launched ourselves at it kind of in the style that we were all used to, with a small backpack, our supplies for the day, and giving every pitch everything we had. [MUSIC PLAYING] Aw, yeah. [INAUDIBLE] Jerking. [GRUNT] [INAUDIBLE] flexibility in the vortex. Thanks, dude. [WIND GUSHING] So sick. Yeah. So stoked. So sleepy. Dude. Whoop, whoop! Holy shit. You have to stand up here and look over the edge. I will, but maybe after you. This is a base exit. [? That's ?] for sure. I think other climbers will look back on this trip that we did and see the potential of free climbing in the Arctic. Climbing a wall like this takes time and patience. And it's important to keep in mind that you're going to-- you're not always going to have success with the way that you want to climb it, and it's good to be adaptive and fit to the situation because the situation doesn't always fit to you. [MUSIC PLAYING] I remember being four years old and wondering what I wanted to do when I grew up, and I wanted to be an explorer. And I imagined thrashing through the jungle with an explorer hat or doing some kind of Indiana Jones type mission somewhere. And an opportunity like this is like an opportunity to be an explorer.
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Channel: Arc'teryx
Views: 408,730
Rating: 4.9352226 out of 5
Keywords: rock climbing, Baffin Island, Marc-Andre Leclerc, Brette Harrington
Id: Bz4-PQizX1A
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 16min 1sec (961 seconds)
Published: Fri Jul 27 2018
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