Alex Honnold on Daniel Woods' V17 Scary Topout

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there have been a few routes that like Daniel Woods has climbed some of the hardest Bowlers in the world and he basically gets to the top of the problem and then has to do 20 feet of slab climbing like exit climbing to get to the actual top of the Boulder and it looks like he's going to himself and he's going to die up there and you're kind of like come on Daniel you're doing the hardest thing in the world and then you can't do the like VB exit slab like I mean I know it's scary but it shouldn't be that scary compared to the literally the hardest moves that have ever been done on rock that you just did you know it's like so there are a lot of things like that where you know you could gain some skills from other aspects of climbing but in general if you can do the hardest moves on on Boulders you don't have that much to learn by going drag clubbing you know it's like yeah you might be able to improve your Technique a little your footwork a little bit but in theory you could learn all those things just through bouldering as well yeah I'm thinking about that shot of him on return to the Sleepwalker and he pulls all the hardest moves and he gets onto that kind of slabby top out and he's like calling for chalk bags and he's standing it's like he speeds up the film and it's like 10 minutes of where he's where he's basically on this on this slab top yeah so the ones that the buttermilks are kind of similar right like you climb exactly and then it's like but it's still like heady right it's like a 20-footer no it's not heady that's the thing is like so I've done that top out to return to the Sleepwalker thing uh because there's like a V6 like an older problem where you like jump start to this kind of jug to the left so that you basically top out that same part of the Boulder and uh and it's funny because the V6 I was like oh this is kind of hard you know that he traversed it but basically as soon as you stand up there like in my tennis shoes I would feel comfortable just walking up that slab because you're like oh this is just like the approach to something like this is totally normal totally chill and then you watch the world's best Boulders like themselves out of it you're kind of like come on like but you know but that said I haven't had that exposure though no but I think the important thing to bear in mind here is that that you know I can make fun of him I can tease Daniel for being bad on the exit climbing but the thing is is that with someone throwing him a chalk bag and him slowing down his breathing and spending 10 minutes like he can figure it out and get through it but with no amount of effort can I could I get through the bottom moves of return to Sleepwalker you know it's like it's not like somebody giving me a chalk bag is gonna suddenly allow me to do the hardest moves on rock and so I think that's the important thing to keep in mind is that like Daniel doesn't really need those other skills like because he can still climb the the hardest things in the world and and no amount of like good technique or like tricky know-how is going to get me up those moves like that's the thing is at a certain level like having the strength to pull hard moves is is more important than anything else all right shell just a 30 second break here to tell you about today's sponsor which is fizzy Vantage nutrition I love their stuff I'm sipping on their supercharged collagen right now in my morning tea the vanilla flavor tastes just like a creamer MIT and what does it do well it helps your tendons to get stronger to recover faster so that you can train harder and climb longer and who doesn't want to do that y'all have been using this stuff for years it really is the best of the best they've got an incredible pro athlete team check it all out at fizzyvantage.com you hit that link below and you're going to get 15 off automatically loaded or use code struggle at checkout to get that discount cheers it does mellow kind of exemplify the bouldering world or are they their own thing like their own subculture within bouldering what's your take on this whole bouldering as a sport but also kind of what mellow represents I think mellow represents a little bit of its own its own thing within the bouldering world I mean I think there are a lot of Boulders who are like mellow you know who like want to listen to hip-hop on their on their speakers while they're sessioning really hard limit Boulders you know with their fans going and all that kind of stuff and you're just like super modern like new school bouldering uh that said I mean you wonder how much of that is because all those people have grown up watching mellow videos I mean because this crazy Mellows only existed for several years and so it's not like I can't even like grown up watching mellow but it's I think it's been pretty influential over the last several years is it the logical extension of like the dosage films do you think yeah totally I mean I basically think that that mellow is is the new version of the dosage films and sort of the hip or like cooler version in a way right but I mean mellow is basically what the film Rampage was in in the late 90s or whenever Rampage came out on VHS hell yeah I mean at the time it was so cool like yeah and now mellow is the same thing but just much more fresh right and it's it is like a really a group thing it's a team thing it's very cool um it surprised me it came out in this in this interview that people will hear that that Sean is that's kind of the CEO of of mellow I know I was shocked by that I was like how could Sean possibly be running anything but what struck me as funny is that there's actually a CEO of mellow I don't know like it just there's like something that's like running but like it's because it kind of seems like it's this underground thing where people are just submitting videos which it probably is for the most part for sure pay the bills and make some decisions or something I mean I love mellow videos but like when you look at the Mellow YouTube I mean most of their best videos don't really have that many views compared to any of the sort of click-baity climbing content that you can find online and to me that basically that that shows that mellow is not optimizing any of their anything I mean they're just too busy sending and putting out videos but there's there's definitely no corporate Overlord like maximizing their revenue through ad stuff because you know I mean they're putting out some of the best climbing content available anywhere and not that many people see it overall and you're like man there's so many other climbing platforms that just aren't that good they get so many views and you're kind of like come on really like that stuff is just trash compared to Mella yeah and it doesn't strike Michael me that the Mellow guys even give like to your point they're just out there sending and they're collecting the best stuff and so they care a little bit but maybe don't care enough to like make it even fully realize its potential I think maybe part of that and and then now I'm just totally speculating but I think part of that might be because each of the guys involved in Melo is sponsored individually on their own and so they're already professional climbers and so their focus is climbing the hardest things in the world and sort of making a living through their sponsors and they're definitely not trying to be YouTube stars in any way or or you know sell anything on YouTube they're just putting the content out there because because it's cool like because they're doing really hard stuff and they want to share it and you know I mean I think that sets them in contrast to to other sorts of YouTube influencer sort of folk who aren't necessarily professional climbers and are just like looking for a way to make a living through climbing I just think the Mellow guys just don't care about that kind of stuff because you know they're already getting their free clothes and they're sending the hardest things in the world and they're like whatever like we're in Switzerland drinking wine who gets it you know you're like I don't know it does literally seem like 80 of the year they're in Switzerland drinking wine yeah exactly I know this is we're somewhere to be shocked if the every third picture Daniel post is of some like super nice bottle of wine yeah oh yeah he's he's uh they've got good taste I'll give him that I'd do that that's quite I don't know my wine I mean I don't either but they're all foreign labels I'm like it's got to be decent uh oh I mean foreign labels in Europe is probably like a two Euro bottle of wine yeah it's like that's true and they probably get after the first class you can't tell the difference anyway uh but that that is something that kind of separates the boulders from big wall and Sport climbers and earlier you said hey you know I'm not the strongest in in bouldering and I I wonder if you think much about what sport climbers or big wall climbers can gain from what the boulders are doing really well and and vice versa or are they very siled I don't know I mean I would say that the cultures are a little bit siled in the in the the people all just hang out doing their own things it's like it's just different scenes uh but in terms of climbing movement you know like if you want to be a next level sport climber or big wall climber you have to be able to Boulder at a high level because basically when it comes down to if you're gonna climb hard Roots you have to be able to do hard moves and hard moves are found on hard Boulders you know so it's like if you want to climb the hardest routes in the world you have to be able to Boulder at a high level foreign foreign
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Channel: The Struggle Climbing Show
Views: 59,014
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Length: 8min 23sec (503 seconds)
Published: Mon Jun 19 2023
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