ABS For Dummies Part 4 - TIPS AND TRICKS!

hello and welcome to part four of the abs for newbies guide this will be the final part of the series for now what we're going to be going over today is some final tips and tricks to help ensure that your abs prints succeed [Music] so we're going to start off by touching back on enclosures and we're going to go over two things here this is called the heat soak and the cool down now for those that are familiar with vorons and have been in the voron discord for a while you've probably heard the term heat soak used quite often before in regards to the procedure before starting a print now the heat soak helps with three things one it allows the air temperature within the enclosure to rise to a stable equal point this helps with long-term print success two this allows the printer to reach a stable equilibrium in terms of temperature metals expand at higher temperatures and depending on how your printer is built how it's enclosed and the temperatures you're running at you may find things grow a little bit flex a little bit at higher temperatures so consistently printing after a certain amount of time to allow everything to kind of reach a balanced state can help with more consistent print quality especially with the first layer and the third biggest reason to heat soak is printers that have a bed probe that is susceptible to temperature drift now i'm sure you've all experienced this before and this is why a lot of people don't like inductive probes for example is they read different at different temperatures however a common misnomer is that they are more inaccurate at different temperatures this is not true they are consistently accurate it's just the temperature offset and the sense distance will change depending on the temperature they are at now i've run two tests here running the probe accuracy test and clipper the first one is at room ambient temperature the printer was off all night and the second one was after a 10 plus minute heat soak with the bed at 110 degrees celsius so as you can see the sense distance is different between the two temperatures however they're both accurate within their same temperature so what this means is if you're using a probe that is susceptible to temperature drift as your z offset you should be running the same setup every time you go to print for consistent results for example with my printers what i do is i put the nozzle in the middle of the bed 10 millimeters off the deck i heat everything up to the temperature i'm going to be printing at for example abs 110 degrees roughly i let everything sit for 10 minutes after the bed reaches its desired temperature and then i start the bed probe and the print this way i have consistent results every time all my offsets are set up for those temperatures so that is one thing you may have to play around with offsets depending on the bed temperature you're printing at but this will give you a more consistent better result now the opposite of the heat soak is the cool down now with abs or any other plastic that requires printing at a higher ambient temperature i always recommend that you wait until the chamber returns to ambient temperature before opening the printer the reason for this is a sudden rush of cool air from opening the printer too early can cause parts to warp crack or even delaminate i've had this happen to me by jumping the gun a little bit and trying to get a print off the bed a little too early and nothing is worse than ruining a 12-hour print because you didn't want to wait an additional five minutes so i always recommend waiting at least till the printer returns to near ambient temperatures of the room before opening it up now we're going to look at some slicer settings and tricks here that may help a lot with your prints succeeding now the first one here is part orientation on your bed now this really depends on what type of bed you're running and what type of printer for a printer where the bed doesn't move in the x or y direction it is best to group your prints near the middle of the bed this is where the air is going to be the warmest and it's going to be the most consistent temperature if you put parts near the edge of the bed you might encounter situations where one side of the print is warmer than the other side due to environmental factors another thing is depending on how your bed is constructed if it's a silicone mat attached to aluminum plate or pcb bed a lot of beds don't have heater traces near the very edge of the bed so you might have temperature differentiations as well so when possible try and group your prints near the middle of the bed and this would be a setup for on like say a prusa or an ender 3 where the bed moves in the y-axis now orientating your prints in this direction can help a lot when it comes to the prints moving in and out of that hot warm bubble of air that sits over the middle of your bed by minimizing bed movement you give your prints the best chance to succeed by keeping them in the hot air as long as possible now if you're only going to print one object or a small object there are a few things you have to keep in mind as well with abs it likes to cool naturally on its own it doesn't like being blasted with a part cooling fan for example and two if you pump too much heat in a small area you'll get poor print quality results as you can see when i was doing the speed benchy those smoke stacks did not turn out well too much heat in a small area with abs it just turns to mush essentially so there are a few ways to get around that one of them is to set a minimum layer time now with a minimum layer time what this does is it tells the printer that anytime a layer is going to be less than that time it will simply slow down the print head another option is to have the print head move off the print and wait until the layer time finishes and then move back to continue both those have advantages and disadvantages with having a minimum layer time what can happen is as the print head speeds up and slows down you may see visible defects in the outer quality of the print because as the printer speeds up and slows down the extrusion rate changes flow rate changes and you may see the speed pick up and slow down in print quality now my experience i've never had anything actually cause a functional defect in the print by doing that method it's mostly just a cosmetic thing the other option is to move your tool head off the print once it's done that layer and then wait and then move back now by moving the printhead on and off the print continuously that can cause defects from stringing and oozing as well personally i'd rather go with the minimum layer time than moving the printhead off and on continuously now another trick is simply print more parts at the same time this allows you to lengthen your minimum layer time while keeping the high speed and getting more done at once now this can be accomplished by simply adding more parts that you need to print to the bed or what you can do and i've done it in the past is add a sacrificial part calibration cube an empty square something on the other side of the bed move it away from your main object and this way the additional print time and the additional travel time will help bump up your minimum layer time and give you consistent results now another thing to keep in mind like this is when you are batching prints and printing multiple at a time is try to arrange them by height you don't want to try and print a bunch of really short small objects and then print one really tall object in the middle of the bed this will affect your minimum layer times and your print quality as well so you do want to try and keep things arranged by height now when it comes to overhangs and bridges with abs a lot of people seem to have struggles with this mostly for the fact that they're running no fans now if you go into your slicer settings i'm just going to use cure for an example here with a lot of slicers now they do have settings specifically for bridging so for example here cura does have bridging settings that you can play with and they are quite elaborate now a lot of bridge settings where they help is either speeding up or slowing down the print adding an additional support layer to a bridge or ramping up or slowing down fans for overhangs or bridges so what i recommend is take a profile that you know works for example the voron v2 profile in cura for bridging is actually quite well so what i would recommend is simply steal the settings from there and use that as a baseline and then tweak to your printer's need now with bridging and overhangs fans are going to help in this case there's really no getting around that now you can run fans with abs and i run a low part fan when i print abs especially with overhangs and bridges however you do need higher ambient temperatures 45 degrees plus the hotter the better and you are still running a pretty low fan i run my fans usually 5 to 15 percent at most for park cooling with abs just to get a little bit cleaner overhangs and bridges so don't be afraid to dive into your slicer settings for overhangs and bridges and another thing that greatly impacts overhangs is make sure you're printing your walls inner to outer and print infill first okay by printing infill first this allows your walls something to stick to and by printing the walls inner to outer it allows the outer wall something to stick to this does help a bit to make sure things aren't drooping down when you're printing those overhangs and then if you are experiencing curling which is when the parts warp up usually this is an issue caused by too much heat in a small area so what i would recommend is either slowing down your print speeds for outer walls if you're experiencing this or printing multiple parts or a sacrificial part on the other side of the bed for example to try and give those overhangs time to cool down basically you don't want to dump too much heat into that overhang too quickly this will cause it to curl up you want to naturally cool nice and slowly before putting the next layer on and one last little trick here is something i like to call a brim puck now other people call them mickey mouse ears for a reason you'll see very soon here now say you're printing an object that you find doesn't really require a brim however you have one area that's constantly warping up and you don't want to enable full brims for the part what you can simply add is what i like to call a brim puck and what they are is simply a disc you can easily make these in windows 3d builder or any basic cad software i make mine about 20 millimeters circular one layer tall and what you can do is add these to your print so that the first layer has some additional adhesion in areas where you think it may warp or you've experienced warping in the past now these do come in handy when you're trying to keep your print time down sometimes a full brim is nowhere near needed but there is one small area that you may have a little bit of warping so i do use these quite often whenever i'm printing larger objects where i just want to make sure that one area sticks down i find this method works quite well i use it often and it's definitely better than trying to go in there and salvage a print by taping it down mid-print and finally this is the biggest tip and this is the hardest tip for some people to realize but the cancel button is your friend sometimes it is better off to just end the print cancel it where it's at let everything cool down pull the parts off the bed let everything warm back up and try again we've all printed warped parts okay nothing is worse than going to check on a print and you see a corner lifting off the bed you see a part already popped off and moving around we've all been there it happens when you're printing abs especially when you're new at it you're printing with a new filament you haven't used before check on your prints often have a camera remote watching them so you can keep track if you need to but pay attention if you start to see stuff popping off the bed start warping you have delamination make a call and honestly most of the time the best call is to cancel the print adjust your settings maybe you forgot to clean the bed there's a little bit of finger oil on it that's why the print didn't stick there but canceling a 12 hour print one hour in is always better than it failing 10 hours in and scrapping all the parts because you woke up too spaghetti your parts popped off the bed everything's all stuck together or your parts just warped to the point where they're unusable even if they did stick to the bed i've had it happen i'm sure you've had it happen everyone's had print failures it is usually better to just cancel it when it starts to fail start over adjust your settings than it is to try and let it finish because odds are it won't finish correctly so i hope you have found this video informative if you have any questions make sure you ask them in the comments below if you did like the video make sure you hit that like button and if you want to see more content such as that make sure you're subscribed to the channel as always if you want to support the channel by any means there are affiliate links below and links to my patreon if you would like to help out support what i do and i hope to see you on my saturday streams as well be safe out there wash your hands and have a nice day [Music] do [Music] you

Channel: NERO 3D

Views: 24,776

Keywords: voron, voron design, v2, v2.4, v2.1, v24, v2.2, v2.0, vzero, v0, v1, serial, request, cereal, overview, intro, 3d, printer, 3d printer, corexy, core, xy, abs, enclosed, guide, tips, tricks, help, printing, print abs, abs tips, abs tricks, how to print abs, printing abs, ender3, cura, slicer, settings

Id: jfQUIOewjs8

Length: 12min 42sec (762 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 20 2021