73 Honda CB750 Custom Build Part 20 - Starter & Alternator

this week we tackle the starter the alternator and the transmission cover welcome to hack a week well last week we got that cylinder head all wrapped up other than the valve cover this week we're going to move on to the alternator we're going to test the alternator we are going to install the windings into the housing we're going to take the starter apart we're going to look at the commutator strips in there and the motor clean those up put it all back together and we're also going to get the final drive seal in and put the transmission cover on let's get started first up final drive seal goes right here where the sprocket goes and probably would have been a bit easier to put on when I was putting the case halves together but on this particular engine I can slide it over the shaft and tap it into place but I'm going to tap it into place with is a piece of 2-inch PVC pipe you can see that it's about the same diameter as the seal which is really important you don't want to go banging on the seal with a punch for one you can put it in crooked too you could dent it and ruin the seal and it won't seal oil properly so I cut this piece of PVC pipe to about six inches long I've got a cap that's going to go on it and if I just put that cap on there tap it in place a little hammer then what I can do is put it up here against the seal hit it with a dead blow and be able to punch it into the engine there handy tool to hang on to later if I need to change the seal in the bike because I can still reach where that seal goes let's get that installed so the seal goes on here and this spline shaft is a little bit rough has some sharp edges if I was to push this on there and not be really careful I could potentially damage the seal with these rough edges so I'm going to take some clear packing tape piece about four or five inches long and I'm going to put it on there and cover it just the splined area of that shaft I can rotate it around and just wrap this piece of tape on there and the tape will serve as something to protect the seal as I put it on this is a little oily so it's a little challenging to get this tape to stick in place but okay we're going to stuck to itself there we go so the reason they don't put it on all the way is that need to pull it back off later I don't want to put it on the area where the seal actually hits against that shaft you can see here the seal is nice and cleaned up and I'm going to put a little bit of assembly lube on it because as I've mentioned before never a good idea to install a seal dry you always want a little bit of lubricant on there I'll put a little bit out in this output shaft to rotate that around and make sure we cover all of it so now I'm going to push this on there just crunch my tape down here to a point a little bit and if you kind of move it around a little like that as you push it on it'll slide over all that stuff a little easier now it's time to push it in there but before I do that I'm going to do a little trick I picked up from automotive service and that is put a little bit of silicone sealant around the outside of the seal it'll help it slide in a little bit easier and lessen the chance of hurting the seal in any way and then once it cures of course it's access just let extra a little bit to hold the seal and now you might be asking why don't you use honda bond you've plastered it all over everything else on this engine well that stuff sets up way too quick for this purpose plus this is a little bit slippery and it will help the seal slide in a little easier got a dead blow hammer here why do you call it a dead blow hammer you say well that's a good question because it's filled with lead shot inside there and it doesn't bounce so when you hit it on something it just it doesn't bounce back it just goes whack and it's a little better for pounding on things that you need to move into place because it doesn't bounce back so let's get this on there I'm going to try to keep this lined up as square as I can to the crankcase and then just give it a couple of sharp whacks right in the middle of this thing I think that's about it we are in there now we can get the tape back off cut this outer part with a razor knife pull it off and that's that there's a cover that goes over that final drive here it is and I've got the bolts in there already these bolts by the way came from z1 enterprises it's a kit to replace all of the JIS screws that used to be around here they look like Phillips head screws but they are actually called JIS screws Japanese industrial standard screws so I'm going to leave these in there for now just so I know where they go and this could use a little clean up a little bit of polishing since everything else is polished I'm not real big on going crazy on polishing aluminum because it always ends up looking like this after a couple years anyway but since everything else is polished I'll get this polished up but this will go on after the engine is installed and I get the sprocket on there get the chain on and everything and this goes over the top of that and covers all that up next up we have the shifter cover this whole assembly that's covered up by this right here there is a dowel pin in this cover located right there again all of these bolts are from z1 enterprises it's a hex head bolt six millimeter bolts so there's a seal that goes in right there let's see and we look through my pile of seals here I know one of them says shifter yep there it is there's the part number for the shifter seal so we'll take that out and we'll press that in there that is nice and clean as possible and now we'll get the seal pushed in there I'm going to put just a tiny bit of that assembly lube around the outside of it this should go in there fairly easy I'll try to keep it started as straight as possible I've got this sitting up on some two by fours because of that dowel pin right there I can't really set it flat on my table so if I put the two by fours under let it bump up against the dowel pin then I've got something to hit against we just drive it in until it's flush with that surface that's it this whole area has oil in it that's why the seal is there on the shift shaft and you'll see there's a bearing right there if that gets oil so this is all going to be sealed up with a gasket so I'm going to clean off any little bits of honda bond that may have squished out right there on the seam and you guessed it i'm going to put a little bit of my gasket material that i love to use on there a little tiny bit of the Permatex aviation gasket really not putting much on here at all just a thin layer I like to use it just as a little extra backup make sure I've got a really good solid seal now put the gasket onto the cover now we got the two alignment dowels there one goes there one goes there and we're going to slide this on when you get to the seal section here you may have to a little push as it gets past the shaft and the seal expands a bit there we go now I'm going to run all these in till they just bottom out what do we do with them first we snug them then we tighten them down to nine foot pounds or 105 inch pounds or ten point four Newton meters take your pick depending on what part of the world you're in or what mood you're in how many beers you've had we're going to move on to the starter motor now we're going to pull this apart and check out the brushes and the commutator on the motor in here we're going to put this in the vise there's two long screws to hold everything together and what we're after is to take these screws out and remove this end right here this is where the brushes are they're underneath here so let's just put this in the vise go clamp it up so here's the impact driver with the bit loaded up in the end of it when you rotate this this will cam and turn one way or the other depending on how you preload it by hand so you put it into the screw I want to rotate this way so I'll go ahead and turn like that just a little bit and then we'll just give it a sharp whack with the hammer that one broke loose okay we turn this load it up give it a whack and it went that time finally to finish taking this apart I'm going to clamp this part in the lace now because I don't want it to fall and then we'll just go ahead and remove these two long screws and we'll put those aside over here now we should be able to just pull this end off but there's a couple of lock washers those aside and there's a little o-ring in here that seals around the outside and don't be surprised if you see a bunch of black powder in here and stuff from the brushes being worn out there's also a thrust washer that goes down in there now here's the commutator strip for the electric motor and see it turns around here on the brushes the brushes are right here and right here and there is a specification for those if they're less than five millimeters measured from right there to right there it's time to replace them and I can tell already just looking at those that they're just fine they're definitely not worn down to five millimeters yet now we can clean up the commutator strip okay we're going to pull this apart the rest of the way so that we can clean these commutator strips but I want you to see something over on this side there's a notch right here in the casting and you'll see it lines up with a little score mark right here on the housing for the windings make sure that stays lined up when you put it back together just take a note of where it is because that way everything lines up where it should with the y coming out of the side here so this just pops out like that and you'll see the brushes popped out of their holders but that's okay because when we put it back together we'll just push those back into place and the brush holder is now a little bit loose here it lines up on some little notches you'll see right there there's a notch so when you put it back together just make sure it's like that we'll set that aside for now so we're going to clamp this in the vise now to work on it we'll clamp it right here by the housing on the end let's not go too tight and that way I can still rotate this that's the reason I want to put it in there like that now I can clean this up a little bit with some sandpaper got some 200 grit wet Oh dry here I'm just going to take that go like that with it that's all it's going to take just a little bit of that the other way you could do it is to just hold this and just spin it by hand all right all done with the cleaning now another important part is in between each commutator strip is a gap that gap should not be bridged by any little particles of copper or anything that's called the undercut on a commutator and it needs to be kept cleaned out so what we can do to clean that is just take a small screwdriver tip and just run it down through there all the way around on each one and before all this goes back together I'm going to put a little bit of light machine oil on this end this is just some of that red Marvel Mystery Oil put a little bit there and just a tiny bit over on this end not much and then when we clean all this up and everything that'll go back on there of course with the other section in and that'll give me a little bit of Lube now make sure all of the thrust washers are back on there make sure all the ones that you came off go back on okay ready to put this back together there's the notch that I talked about earlier put this in the vise clamp it just barely tight don't squeeze it too hard you don't to damage anything make sure that o-ring down there is okay that one looks okay let's find our little line there's the score mark on the housing we're just going to lower this down and then once we get to the brushes if you just push them with your thumbs let them slide past the commutator strip that's all you need to do and now that's back on there we're going to push that brush holder into place now when you put this end back on there's a little notch right here a little little mark kind of a tiny arrow in the casting and there's the corresponding notch this is just a little off there we go and we're going to put that on line it up - there it has to line up just right because there's also a little channel right there that catches on that raised piece of metal and keeps everything lined up and keeps the brush holder from twisting around there we go it's all lined up now we can go ahead and put those screws back in so let's loosen this and we'll turn it like that that way we can get at one of these screw holes go ahead and get one of these started let's get them as tight as you can by hand let's make sure that the motor still turns okay now put this back down on the vise like I had it before I'm going to use the impact driver again just to give them a really good tightness to make sure they're in there all the way really worth the investment to get one of these they're about you know 25 to 45 bucks depending on where you get them and that's that okay that starters all checked out let's get 12 volts on it and make sure it spins okay so this is gently clamped in the vise I've got two leads here from a 10 amp battery charger switch that over to 10 amps and you want to take the negative lead and connect it to a ground anywhere where you can connect it to any part of the housing of the motor just go ahead and do that now we're going to take the large lead here and we'll touch 12 volts to it and this should rotate and indeed it does so we're good that starter's okay one final detail before we install this there's a a ring that goes on here it's twenty four point four millimeters by 3.1 millimeter it's a very specific o ring it's available on the Honda parts sources and it's there to seal everything up between this housing and this area right here where there will be some oil so we want to keep that all nice and sealed up right there so the starter lives in this little pocket but as you can see I can't put it in because the cam chain tensioner is in the way so that's got to come back out let's get those bolts loosened up pull that back out and you'll see here that that gasket sealer I used on there the Permatex stuff you can actually take it apart and it doesn't really hurt anything it doesn't fully cure down and harden up for quite a while so you've got some leeway there of time that you can take things back apart with that stuff now this is going to drop in with these two holes facing up that's two six millimeter bolt holes that's what will hold the cover on and we'll just come in from the side here like so and it'll load in like that but before we can do that we have to route this wire out through here so there is a hole right here in the cavity where it can come out and go through here and out that away so what we're going to do is snake it on through there pull that on through and you'll see it'll kind of end up where it used to be kind of has a memory in the bend of the wire and everything so there it is now let's see if we can get this ah it's got me we can get this thing down in there pretty tight fit okay let's see how this gets in there okay not so bad slid right in there pretty easily now we can get these two bolts in those are some six millimeter by fifty five millimeter bolts and of course six millimeter bolts torque to nine foot-pounds so we'll leave this like open for now there's a harness that goes right here it's the oil pressure switch harness and it will go in here and the wire will route over here and come out right here with everything else but for now we're going to leave that off we're going to leave the oil pressure switch off because that's where I'm going to hook up a gauge when I crank this motor over with the starter and check the oil pressure so right now I'm going to put the cam chain tensioner back on usual drill on that we'll tighten those up to nine foot-pounds now we're going to come back over here and we've got a reduction gear that's going to go between this starter gear and the starter itself and once again go online and print out the parts breakdown and it'll show you how everything goes together this is the parts breakdown for the starter motor and the starter gear you can see the opie switch on there all that stuff here's the reduction gear that goes between the starter and the starter gear that will drop in first there's a shaft that goes into that hole right there we'll just take that and set it aside right there we're going to put a tiny bit of assembly lube on this so it has a little bit of pre lube we'll put a little bit inside the gear and we're just going to push that in there whoops knock and stuff off my bench here and that should go in to the case now we've got a thrust washer that goes on right there and that will protect the gear from the outer part of the case and that's all we're going to do with that for now now we can move on to the alternator this is the alternator housing and if we flip it over we can see there are two coils in here this one is the field coil the outer one is the stator coil the field coil gets a voltage to it and it creates a magnet and it makes a magnet around the rotor which is over here on the engine and as this rotor goes around in circles these points right here of metal these metal edges actually disrupt the magnetic flux that's created in here and each one of these poles out here on the stator is basically a magnet and as one magnet passes by the other it creates a voltage and what comes out of this stator coil is AC voltage that goes to the rectifier the rectifier turns it into DC voltage then it goes through a voltage regulator and it charges the battery the voltage regulator just automatically senses when the voltage is below a certain threshold about 12 volts it actually allows some charge to go to there until it gets to another threshold voltage of maybe fourteen or fifteen volts and it stops that charge from coming through but essentially this is an AC producing device so this all gets held together with some bolts on the outside here there are three 20 millimeter long bolts that hold the field coil in place and I've got these replaced with the allen head bolts they're six millimeter by 20 there's a washer that goes in there and we'll go ahead and put those in place just like all the other six millimeter hardware on this engine will torque these to nine foot-pounds now we'll flip this over and we can put the bolts in around the outside that hold the stator coil in there are four of them usually those are a pan head Phillips screw I'm replacing them with a button head socket bolt six millimeter by thirty millimeters and it also gets another washer just like the one on the top nine foot-pounds on those also now we're going to test the ohms of the field coil and we're going to do that by connecting two leads here to the let's see it's a green and white wire there's two sets of wires there's one coming from the stator one coming from the field coil the one from the stator has three wires the one from the field coil has two wires so we've got two leads connected to those with alligator clips I'm connecting one lead to my meter I've got the meter set to continuity all you need is a volt meter for this my meter makes a beep if there's continuity what we're looking for is a short between any of the windings and ground so if we just touch this here we don't hear any beep we're good now we're going to switch over to the other wire and we'll test that again and we're also good there now let's go back to the ohms reading now let's check the resistance of the coil itself and let's see it's measuring seven ohms and according to the book the rated it's 7.2 ohms it says so seven ohms is okay now we're going to check the stator windings there's three wires here one of mine is actually missing one of the connectors I'll deal with that later on but I'm going to connect one test lead to that bare wire and now I'm going to check the ohms rating between the other two and there should be some continuity there and this one measures point five ohms according to the book the rated resistance is 0.2 now let's check the other one oops and that measures 0.5 now we're going to switch to any one of the other two we'll check the continuity again the met one is measuring 0.6 and that one measures 0.5 so that's acceptable next we'll check for any shorts to ground in the stator winding let's connect the wire up nothing there nothing there and nothing there we're good to go we're just about ready to put the alternator and cover assembly back on but before we do we need to check this oil gallery plug there's an o-ring on it I'm going to take a long 3/8 extension and I'm going to put it in this oil gallery on the other side of the engine where there is normally one of these plugs that go on there it's just a oil plug it screws on to that side this will fit in there and I can push it across and tap out that plug and there is the plug with an o-ring on it we'll inspect that o-ring and see what kind of shape it's in if it's not any good we'll replace it and it looks to me like it's in pretty good shape it's bigger in diameter than the actual aluminum plug and still looks pretty round I think I'll just leave that alone and put it back in it looks to me like it might have been already replaced by the previous owner so we're just going to push that back in there and it fits nice and snug now we're ready to go ahead and put the gasket on here and put the alternator cover in place I've got this surface all cleaned up ready to go and one last thing to mention there is a six millimeter bolt right here that holds a little metal clip on and that what keeps the wires in place there's a rubber grommet built onto the harness that squishes down into that and it's a little bit taller than what the edges so that it can squish and seal really well and as usual I'm going to add my little bit of extra gasket sealer material to this and we can drop the gasket in place gasket sealer applied all the way around and a little bit of the assembly Lube on this shaft right here just to help it slide together a little easier put a little bit there on the gear to between the gear and the thrust washer now we need to route the wires in there and they come out back there the same place as the starter cable did and it goes in there out there so we'll just get it started poke it on through grab it over on this side there it is okay it's poked through there now we can push this on and at the same time pull the wire through now we've got eight bolts that go around the outside six millimeter by thirty five millimeters long get all those in place just run those into lay bottom out usual procedure snug them all first and then tighten them to 9 foot pounds look at that shininess well yeah nice to see those covers on there and this side of the engine is now done next week we're going to move on to the side over there with the clutch and all that good stuff so thanks for watching thanks for the donations and until next time last week we got the cylinder head wrapped up this week we'll are going to do stuff

Channel: HackaweekTV

Views: 67,468

Rating: 4.9613795 out of 5

Keywords: electronics, diy, hardware hacking, hackaweek, motorcycles, circuit, automobile, mechanical, starter, alternator, honda cb750, motorcycle, cafe racer, custom motorcycle, final drive seal, Starter Motor, Engine

Id: MMaKWksa968

Length: 31min 33sec (1893 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 26 2015