How Do You Destroy A 4.0L Jeep Engine THIS BAD? Intentional? Neglect? Ill-Repair? I Am IMPRESSED!

engine teardowns have been a staple for the channel for the better part of two years and one of the questions I get asked quite often what are some of your favorite engines what engines do you really like well today we're going to tear down one of my favorite engines a Jeep 4-liter inline six I've been asked to tear one of these engines down many many many many times and it's not that I couldn't find one it's okay they're kind of tough to find this course there are a lot of them out there they are starting to get a little older and the cores do have some value and typically when you find a core it's a late one that has overheating issues I'm not trying to do any foreshadowing I have no idea what's wrong with this core but I was at the right place at the right time and today we get to take a four liter apart there are many reasons why the four liter is so well liked the parts are really inexpensive and anything this engine could need your local auto parts store probably has it on the Shelf they're also very easy to work on you don't have to be a rocket surgeon with a computer machine just to service your vehicle there's no special tools required they're very simple they also make pretty good power considering the low level of tech these engines have 190 195 horsepower 230 foot-pounds of torque pretty decent for that time but I have a sneaking suspicion that the number one reason why people like these engines so much is that they don't die they they don't die I see them with four hundred thousand five hundred thousand miles and they run great you know the rest of the vehicles but the engines are fantastic very Shameless plug if you need a four liter I have a couple of them in stock I usually keep a couple of four liter powered vehicles on the lot this one is out of a TJ that we just got done dismantling and I also have a manual XJ I've actually had two x-rays myself I had a four liter Auto and I actually had a manual four-door four-wheel drive should never have sold that one now this is an early engine and earlier engine you can tell it's got a distributor but the engine we're going to tear down is out of a 99-04 Grand Cherokee it's a coil pack engine I think it's actually that's O2 or 01 and later a one and later regardless those are the ones that are most prone to having overheating issues so the interesting to see what's wrong with this engine now of course like anything there are some failure points of a 4 liter the number one issue I see with these engines is the very porous casting can lead to overheating issues especially in the later engines I've seen crackheads well head gaskets but for the most part that's the worst thing you have to deal with now I did a little looking at this core and I noticed that it has one plug in it yes one spark plug and it's kind of weird so we're going to see if it turns over and uh see if it makes a full Revolution and it actually turns over pretty nice I don't hear any bad noises I think we'll be able to get this apart pretty easily I guess the very first thing we're going to do is pull the valve cover off well can't start in the back that's how you get an infection I did notice this engine is pretty beat up valve cover smash the coil is broken so I bet this Edge has been upside down a few times well everything seems to be okay so far get this uh valve cover gasket out of the way I don't see anything bent or broken everything seems to uh seems to be fine so far the next thing I'm going to do is pull the thermostat and thermostat housing I don't need to do this to pull this engine apart but I want to see what the cooling system looks like and this is the first clue we'll get well not a lot to go off of I guess since this engine's tumbled around a lot it's had a good chance to leak everything out thermostat's not stuck open that's what I usually see you know what let's just go straight for the water pump it's easy enough yeah water pump looks really nice oh the coolant coming out of it does not look so hot it's a little on the oily side it's coolant goes there not not oil but this water pump it's definitely been replaced it's an aftermarket unit yeah this would be a great backup normally I'd pull the coil next but the dipstick tube is bent over and we're just going to get this out of the way I mean how hard could it be no way huh sometimes you get lucky let's get this broken coil pack out of the way yep one spark plug I'm not even gonna bother not even not even good about it the next thing I'm going to do is remove the intake and exhaust manifold now this is not a cross flow head which is why they're both on the same side of the engine now this is a 99 up engine and these intake manifolds do sell pretty well it's an upgrade for the 98 and older oh it doesn't fit the earlier four leaders that did not have the cast exhaust manifolds were very notorious for cracking the exhaust manifolds because it's a very long engine and the heat Cycles hot cold hot cold it fatigues the exhaust manifolds and they crack several aftermarket versions exist again not very expensive they're also not that difficult to install so let's get these two cast manifolds off and then we'll take a look inside the ports well there are some signs of rust and moisture in here I did pick this thing up outside in the rain and it was sitting outside for some time so that could be why I don't see anything too bad a lot of rust in that one well let's start pulling these rockers and push rods I'm just checking to make sure they all feel about the same in case there's a problem with valve train might be able to tell about how tight or loose these are well I looked over the rockers and push rods pretty well nothing's bent or destroyed the oil doesn't look that great but I don't really see any damage yet all of the ends have the same finish everything just looks a little dirty now it's time to crack the head bolts loose I have no idea how tight these are going to be I've actually never pull the head off of one of these okay so they're not super loose they're not that tight oh water just came out of a hole for the exhaust bolt that's not good it's not supposed to do that not very loud head bolts foreign now I read on the internet that the head's like 83 pounds that shouldn't be too bad right that's pretty heavy yep that's not 80 pounds that just goes to show you you can't believe everything you see on the internet foreign oh did not expect that so now it started out okay and then it became not okay because this engine did the old compression delete I mean it's it's it's bad I bet these two cylinders no compression it probably still ran cylinder walls really rough pretty much trashed let's go look at that cylinder head well here's the cylinder head and you can definitely tell that the two cylinders where the Pistons came apart they're pretty rough now this is an iron head and it still took some damage but one thing I did want to focus on it's right there look at that head is cracked and that cooling jacket a little bitty crack starting as well very common to see cracks in that area this engine definitely got hot let's pull this head gasket off I don't see any major major damage but I don't know it's pretty dark between those two cylinders well I also discovered a new trick rotating Pistons that's a brand new one to me that one doesn't it's just this one now how could that be there's no way this damaged the wrist pin so oh now it stopped I ruined it oh there we go now we'll remove the crank pulley I'm gonna see if my puller works on this it should but there start zipping these bolts out of the timing cover this looks like a job for Old Blue oh I missed a few there's a timing chain everything looks perfect in here I really don't see anything horrific in here yet I guess now it's time to turn this thing over huh let's see how this goes it can either go bad or terrible or just fine oh oh I'm hearing loose stuff inside it's chunky chunky oil is not good oil lifters are falling out but it's fine still fine let's just um knock the rest of these out shall we where's my mallet there's another one I guess I could have gotten a magnet that would have been the right thing to do but we're already here what was that uh oh so a nut just came out of there um boy that doesn't look like a nut that's supposed to be loose let's get this pan off those pants would just lift right off oh this is the nut that fell out of this engine when I flipped it over and now we need to figure out where it came from it looks awfully like one of these all of these are here oh those are missing there's two of them missing so where's the other one did it already fall out or where will we find it well this pan is a work of art so much forbidden glitter it looks like someone put anti-seize in here but the engine does turn over so that can't be it there's some larger hunks in here I don't know that this is bearing material I really don't know that that's what that is but it is kind of brass colored I don't know it looks like bass boat paint it's not a good look for oil oh and look what we found in the pickup some little itty bitty nuggets yeah those aren't supposed to be in there let's pull the oil pump normally I'd wait to the very end of the video to pull the oil pump apart I'm not going to do that this time we're just going to pull it apart right now oh wow it's tired yep I bet you this was a higher mileage engine just judging by the way this looks let's get this little oh no don't fail me now I'm not sure how well this will pick up on the camera but these are pretty worn there are lots of scratches and it could be that debris went through there or this engine just has a lot of miles you can see about how dull The Edge is here they're usually a lot more machined looking than this now normally I just zip these nuts loose but I want to see how tight they are since these are lock nuts and these two well these two are missing and one of them I don't know where it is at all so we're just going to check okay now we can zip this off now let's check all of this so all the bearings feel okay but oh um can I get that there's part of the piston that's not supposed to be there it's supposed to be on the piston and what is this that's part of a ring land of a piston or maybe that's a ring oh yeah yeah that's that's pretty bad mm-hmm oh [Music] yeah no that's bad mm-hmm yep yep so first we'll start off at the front nothing too terrible yet then yeah there's more of that ugly oil and then you get a look at the cam that cam lobe is pretty worn and we make our way further down and oh that that's broke really broke but we already knew that Pistons aren't supposed to rotate but that one does more sparkles it's more pieces look at that look at that rod it's just coated in aluminum and yep part of a piston more metal fragments let's get this apart we're gonna start pulling the rods and pistons out you know what that's not going to come out that easily I'm going to rotate this crank so all of these are in the same line it'll be much easier to pull this apart so I've rotated the crank so that I think I can get all the rods and pistons out I might have to turn it in another situation but let's start with this one here I'm actually going to loosen this one as well I rotated the crank a little so I had a little better access and I need to turn it a little bit more oh no it literally just fell right out it's fine now this is the broken one so I'm not really sure how this is going to come out foreign oh it almost fell out okay let's see will this come out this doesn't want to come out let that hang out in there we'll get the last two out that's a later problem [Music] foreign that one also doesn't really want to come out so now we're down to the final one we have the crank pulled and then we'll deal with those two that are broken melted blown apart oh that was gross I should have seen that one coming wouldn't you know it had a little nut hiding in there all right we need to get the cam out but before we do that I have to pull this isn't where the distributor goes but this is a crank sensor usually helps to get the right size bolt or if it's just not tight you can just use your fingers and that's what drives the oil pump get this off oh beautiful timing set now I need to get this cam retainer plate off it's uh looks like it Torx see how hard this is to get out you got to come out and we stuck we're stuck somewhere there we go so the cam journals don't look bad but the lobes are pretty worn let's see if I can find just the bad ones there's a pretty bad one right there you can definitely tell that the Finish is different at the tip of the lobe the peak I would say this is a pretty high mileage engine now it's time to pull the crank I wipe down all the journals on the crank and it doesn't look terrible it will definitely need to be checked I wouldn't just slap this in another motor but I don't see any major damage I don't think there was too much running through the oiling system that's probably the worst one right there but it's not bad we've seen much worse on the channel and the main bearings tell a similar story there is somewhere but again we suspect this has a higher mileage engine well that leaves us with two rods and pistons that won't come out that easily that one I can see daylight through and this one is missing a huge section around the wrist pin that's why it would rotate there's what it's missing and then there's just pieces of stuff it's not as bad as we've seen but you know it's not good that one's been torched through and it's all powdered aluminum from the melted piston blasted all over the rod it's pretty awesome now how are we going to get these out so I I would bet that the amount of aluminum transfer on the Block is what's keeping these from coming out they hit like a that one isn't such a oops that one isn't such a a rock solid but we're just gonna we're gonna just tap them out we're just gonna tap it out so this is about as far as they come out on their own oh I can't oh there we go it's one broken one and then we're left with this one certainly don't want to hurt it you know there we go oh really religious piston there well the block is pretty much done I don't really know anybody that wants to put the effort into one of these they're just pretty easy to find and lots and lots of damage especially these cylinders lots of aluminum transfer from melted Pistons lots of vertical scratches that are super deep I mean yeah you could fix it but I don't know that it's worth it and the rod bearings they have a little bit of wear and damage but it's not that bad and all this likely happened towards the very end of this engine's life now the rods and pistons different story The Rods all look somewhat okay but this is the number one piston it's really stiff on the wrist pin don't lots of skirt damage look at the damage on that piston there that is rough number two not as bad but not good not something I would reuse three really stiff and then and then we have four or it's just oh loosey-goosey in there in fact there's the piece of piston in here I mean look at the damage that wrist pin did to the Piston of course the wrist pin ready to reinstall as always and it's got a broken crown lots of debris jammed into it lots of ring land damage this thing is destroyed and I don't worry about that that one's got a hole torched in it look at the damage there that is impressive I've melted a piston in my own car and it wasn't even this bad and I was running like 23 pounds of boost this thing's naturally aspirated what the heck some dance from that's likely from Rings or parts of itself being crammed into the cylinder head this thing is just it's done great conversation piece though and number six damage also none of these Pistons survived well the interesting thing is when you look at this there's the hole in the piston and it blew all of that aluminum all over the rod my car did the exact same thing when I torched the piston and that was from too much timing and boost not in a jeep well that was much worse than I expected I expected to tear down some tired old 4-liter maybe it had some worn bearings some cooling system issues and instead I tore down a tired old four liter with obvious cooling system issues we saw two cracks in the cylinder head there might be more and the head gasket was not so great but those Pistons I've seen that kind of damage before turbocharged engines supercharged engines naturally aspirated engines that are high compression run a lot of timing that's the kind of damage you expect in one of those engines from a malfunction but a 4 liter Jeep that's low compression low stress doesn't rev very high what what caused this kind of Carnage my dad taught me at a very young age there's no law that says there can only be one thing wrong with a car and that is also true for engines we've seen many engines on the Channel with two completely different problems was this related to the overheat was this some other issue I I don't know this is the first four liter I've had this far down because like I said they usually don't have problems now there's not a lot to sell out of this engine the rods of Pistons will make great desk ornaments if you're looking uh intake manifold I'll sell and maybe a crank outside of that the rest of it will likely end up in the scrap bin earlier this week I posted the second video on my 95 Corvette I bought this complete 92 parts car that had a perfect white front end it'll fix all the accident damage on my car now I'd like to address a couple things from that video number one the mileage on digital odometer C4s I think that's 89 or 90 and later the mileage is not stored in the engine computer so yes I disconnected the engine computer first there's no mileage stored in that it's also not stored in the cluster it's actually stored in the body control module and that's in the center of the dash which was on fire unfortunately so what we ended up doing is fishing that singed body control module out and plugging it into another C4 we have on the lot which is why we know this car has 68 155 miles on it it's pretty good miles for one of these cars the other thing I'd like to address is why I'm not fixing this car well as you can see now with the engine out the firewall damage is quite extensive the dash harnesses burn the body harness is burned there aren't a lot of cars out there that are worth this kind of repair my car is much simpler fix if you'd like to buy parts off of this 92 Corvette it's a six-speed manual Dana 44. we've got a couple other C4s on the lot as well you can go to importapart.com and peruse our inventory or you can send us an email at importapart.com if you are searching our website and you don't see what you're looking for you can also send us a part request form it's right there on the site it sends us an email of exactly what it is you're looking for as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one now we're going to either prove or disprove what the internet says we're going to weigh the cylinder head I am not a strong man but I'm pretty sure this is not 80 something pounds [Music] it's 71.

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 503,436

Keywords: Jeep, 4.0, 4.0L, Wrangler, TJ, YJ, Grand Cherokee, Cherokee, XJ, WJ, ZJ, ZG, Limited, Laredo, Sport, Sahara, Engine, Motor, Problems, Towing, Oil pressure, headgasket, blown, bad, I Do Cars, 4.2, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 1998, 1997, Turbo, Stroker, Stroker Kitr, 4.7, Chrysler, AMC, Dodge, PCM, Failure, Horsepower, Exhaust, Build, Off-road, 4x4, Trails, rebuild, ticking, lifters, timing, timing chain, header, manifold, cylinder head, crack, pistons, AX15, regear, Lifted, Swap, Manual, performance, weight, reliability, repair, remove, How

Id: zuTONFvSUo0

Length: 31min 55sec (1915 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 18 2022