6.7 COOLANT LEAK SOLVED

hey guys today in the shop weight was 6.7 liter Ford that's in for a cool leak it's a pretty common leak on these trucks and we can get it found and we're gonna get a salt stay tuned [Music] all right so we've got a motor here that's out of the truck and a lot of times this coolant leak will be it'll either leak down the back of the valley and you'll see it dripping all over the transmission or sometimes you won't see the leak at all because of where it leaks it actually evaporates before it even gets the chance to hit the ground so what happens is you get a low coolant level or you get like a smell of coolant around the truck but you just can't find it so typically I mean there's other places these can leak from but nine times out of ten this is where I found the leak and what it is is this coolant line right there that goes into the turbo so there's a little push lock fitting right in here it's got like a little snap ring and the line pushes into it that the fitting itself wears out and so does the line so what you do is you got to get the fitting that goes in there and the line itself so how I try to find this leak is you know you're gonna have you're looking at the front of the engine you're gonna have the plenum on the plastic plenum and if you use a mirror and you look down behind the plenum and use a flashlight typically you can see it when it's pressure tested you'll see like a like a pink colored almost orangey crust around that fitting and it'll be pretty apparent and then what you can do is get the intake off and these are some of the steps are going to go through so I have this truck here that's in I already looked behind that plenum with the mirror and I found that leak so we're gonna get the plenum off we're gonna get the tube off and I'm gonna show you exactly what that looks like and then I'll show you how to change out those parts so first things first before I do anything up top I always like to get the coolant draining that way it's already down low enough when we go to take that line off you don't need to drain the coolant all the way down it just depends on where in the life of your cool your your vehicle is I mean sometimes by time this is leaking it's already due for a coolant change but maybe you just recently did it but if you're doing this repair and your coolant doesn't need to be she doesn't need to be changed at this time you can just drain it down about halfway so I always start pop the cap make sure there's no pressure in the cooling system and then just undo the petcock on the driver's side there is another pack on the passenger side but that's for the secondary cooling system for the intercooler and in the EGR you don't need to touch that so let's get this drained after you get that coolant drainage we can go on to the next steps and this is a pretty straightforward repair that's really not a lot you have to take a pot to to get to this it may be a little intimidating because it seems like it's it's buried pretty deep but if you just take off the into cool pipe that goes under the plenum and take off the plenum itself really with a couple of basic hand tools you can get this fitting and this line changed out so let's go ahead and start that we've got to unbolt the two dipstick tubes from the plenum there's a couple of lines that are clipped in to the plastic that I'll show you and there's the map sensor on top and besides that there's just a few bolts that hold down this punim and we can lift that up I find it easiest to get the plenum unbolted lift it up a little bit and then you can get to the spring clamp that holds the intercooler pipe on to the turbo it's a little tricky to get into that clamp sometimes if you don't have the clearance but once you get the plenum up you can get some tools in you can get that clamp popped off and then once the tube is out of the way it makes it much easier to slide the plenum out of place so right in here you'll see there's the two bolts to hold the transmission dipstick tube and the engine oil dipstick tube together one bolt holds them to each other and then another bolt holds them to the plenum so those are eight millimeter heads we'll just go ahead and get those two bolts out of there and then we can kind of just sneak these two dipstick tubes off to the side alright so next up what we're going to do is we're going to get these Colt lines is a little plastic clip that holds that to the plenum we'll pop that off and then we will unplug the map sensor on top of the plenum and then there's a little plastic clip that holds the map sensor wiring to the plenum and there's one more down back that's a little tricky to get to if you use a long pair of needlenose you can pop that off if you still having a little trouble get to it you can wait till it's all unbolted and just kind of pull it out a little bit and it gives you a little bit more room but I like to try to get them all off before I go on bolting the plenum so one little quick tip just to watch out for on this little line that goes all the way over to the D gas bottle it goes to the EGR valve it goes up and over to the top of this heater hose right here and there's a little plastic nipple on it that is very very delicate I've seen a lot of these broken and I've broken one or two myself and it's a pain because the line goes all the way up and over to the heater core and it kind of turns a simple job into a nightmare job so just be cautious of that don't go leaning on this thing it sticks straight up it's very easy to accidentally rest on just watch out for that so now that we have this all apart we have the dipstick tubes off we have all the hoses disconnected and the lives wires disconnected we can go ahead and stop on bolting the plenum so there's a few bolts on each side in the back that are a little tricky to get to it's actually four on each side you're gonna use a different combination of extensions and sockets but they're not that bad to get to just be patient keep going until they're all the way loose and you can leave the bolts right in the plenum there's a little plastic ring around them that'll actually hold them in place so just loosen them up you'll feel it once they're not engaged in the threads anymore just leave them and then we'll start working on the front next up after those back bolts are out is you can take all these bolts off the front so there's gonna be seven bolts one two three four five six seven all these bolts that hold us plant them down or eight millimeters the other thing too that I didn't mention might make your life a little easier when you get to the back bolts on the passenger side is that tube I was talking about that's very easy to break there's just a little plastic clip that if you squeeze it you can pop that whole tube right up off of there it might make your life a little easier to get your hand in there I popped it off it definitely made it a little easier for me so you can go ahead and do that just be very cautious about it so you don't break anything so let's get these front bolts off and then we'll lift this put them up and I'll show you how to take this integral pie I like to disconnect this end first at the intercooler it's just one 11 millimeter or 7/16 whatever size works for you they're exactly the same and just loosen up that band clamp on there and then pop pop the boot right up off the intercooler itself now let me let me zoom you in here a little bit there we go this is where you're gonna really see how unbolting the plenum first really just gives you so much more room to get at that little spring clamp these things are a pain in the butt it's one of those type of clips where you pop one side the other side pops back on you pop the other side the other side pops back on keeps going back and forth so what I do is I take two little flat screwdrivers and actually two big flat screwdrivers longer ones that'll reach down there and I pop both sides out simultaneously and then I kind of twist and pull on the intercooler pipe all at the same time I'm gonna try to get that on camera here for you but it is a little tricky to show once I have the pipe off I'll show you what that clamp looks like so you can kind of see exactly what we're working with so as you can see this little clamp this is all that holds this in Tukwila pipe on right here is this the spring clamp these three little D tents so what you have to do is get this pushed out this pushed out and then this pushed out all at the same time so there's got to be a trick to this I'll be honest with you I don't know it if one of you guys know the trick to these clamps leave it in the comments I'd love to learn I mean you know I make these videos but I'm always learning that's that's the beauty of this stuff so what do you guys have a trick let me know alright now that we get that pipe out the next step I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take the four bolts off of the rear driver's side plenum so there's little plastic washers that hold them in place like I said earlier but you still should be able to slide them up out of there now what this does is it just prevents these bolts from getting hooked now there are two different lengths but it's pretty self-explanatory which ones go where and then once those bolts are out of there you can start to work the plenum out it's a little tricky but you'll see if you just kind of keep working back and forth don't force anything it'll find its way out once the plenum is out just make sure that you get the ports covered up last thing you want to do is drop anything in turn a a simple job into a nightmare but I really tried hard to get my camera in there to show you guys exactly where this leak is but my camera's just too big so I'm just gonna have to kind of describe it to you and then I'll get a topside view when I'm changing this hopefully you get a really good understanding and it's it's pretty straightforward once you get this plenum off you're gonna see this line so this side of the line goes to the front of the engine almost like the backside of the timing cover and it goes back up over the compressor housing in the turbo and then it takes a sharp 90-degree turn that goes right into the top right-hand corner or the top driver side corner of the table and then it goes into this fitting this fitting has a little clip and what you need to do is just take a little like a 90 degree pick and just pop that pick out of the clip out of the groove and work it all the way around and then once you get this clip off of the fitting you can pop that line right out it pops out with like a little pry bar or screwdriver against the compressor housing and pop it pull it up and we'll slide this line out so I'm going to show you the trick I use to get to this clamp because that clamp can be a little bit tricky to get to all right so to get to that front clamp that goes to the actually like the bridge that connects the thermostat housing and ball cylinder heads I like to use a pair of like ninety-degree pliers like this I'll put a link in the description for this and I'll actually put a link in the description for all the parts and most of the tools I'm using in this video but what I found is if you take the 90 degree pliers and you go straight down you can hook right on to that front clamp and then squeeze it together and then slide it towards the back of the motor just go to slide it far enough so it's off of the little nipple that it connects to after that front clamp is pushed back we can stop working on the backside now right now I'm working on this engine that I have that's out of a truck just so I can make it a little easier for you to see and this one actually surprisingly isn't leaking but the first thing you need to do is pop off that little plastic retainer that retainer holds that clip from popping out this is probably the trickiest part of this whole job is getting this plastic retainer off and getting the little clip off you're gonna need to use some long picks and just a little bit of patience maybe a beer or two whatever it is that gets you to calmly pull these things apart after the plastic retainers out of the way you can go ahead and start to pull that little snap ring off kind of like I showed you earlier this is where it gets really tricky you might need to use a mirror just trying to try to see where you're working you definitely going to need some good light and once again lots of patience so basically I'm just going to want to find one of the opened ends with a pick and walk it out and then I like to grab another pick once you have an opening and then walk it the rest of the way around then you can take a pry bar push against the compressor housing just kind of wiggle it eventually pops out and then once you get it popped out just slide that little rubber tube off of the nipple on the front of the motor where you undid that clamp and then lift the tube up and out then you can take a pry bar push against the compressor housing just kind of wiggle it eventually pops out and then once you get it popped out just slide that little rubber tube off of the nipple on the front of the motor will you undid that clamp and then lift the tube up and out last thing to take out is the fitting itself it's a you're gonna use a 19 millimeter deep socket on a 3/8 ratchet is how I've always done it and you can just reach straight back and pop it out of the terrible so make sure you're real careful when you go to put this fitting back in it's only aluminum so you want to be you don't need to tighten this down crazy if you go too much you'll definitely strip the threads out on it but let's go ahead get the fitting back in and then you can take the line feed it right back in the same way that it came out then you're going to want to pop it in now before you put that plastic retainer over the top just give the line a good tug a little pry on it just make sure that lines are not gonna pop back out you should hear it click when you push it in if you don't hear it click it probably hasn't seated all the way so I like to just really listen for that click and then pull it up pull out on it and once you know the death thing isn't all the way slide that plastic retainer over it and then make sure everything is nice and clean and just reverse the disassembly steps let's get that plenum back in and get the integral pipe back in the intercooler pipe nice part about that is you just make sure that clamp is collapsed and it pops right back on get the coolant topped off take it for a road test get it up to operating temperature make sure the coolant level is good and just verify that we fixed the leak it's always a good idea while you're in there check it out make sure there's no other leaks anywhere else the oil line can leak sometimes on these it's not as common but it's definitely still a possibility and while you already have the plan them off you might as well do it now aside from that I mean I really hope this helped you some of you guys out I know it's common I know it's hard to find because it's it's not a real visible leak a real obviously especially if like I said earlier sometimes it evaporates before it ever hits the ground so if this video helped you out just give me a like maybe hit that subscribe button and if you guys have any questions leave a comment below I'm gonna leave all the part numbers and some links in the description to all the parts we used and some of the tools that we used I'll leave in there too and once again guys thanks for watching in the shop [Music] [Music]

Channel: In The Shop

Views: 39,329

Rating: 4.9591141 out of 5

Keywords: Ford, 6.7, coolant leak, leak, coolant, antifreeze, fixed, in the shop, Diesel, truck, f-250, f-350, f250, f350, repair, tools, influencer, Motorcraft, turbo, DIY, Instruction, learn, how to

Id: 0tx72QiBjdo

Length: 20min 52sec (1252 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 31 2019