6.5 Creedmoor AR Assembly

hello 97 a year I thought I'd like to share with you this 6.5 Creedmoor rifle assembly I don't like refer to it as a bill to build as the guys that actually do all the machine start out with I've got a 6.5 cream or barrel fault an armory by criterion SJC tightened muzzle brake era of precision complete up or if I want to get doing complete uppers not much assimilative these I just want to have bought a complete one headspace gauges to make sure everything's machine properly G&G rifle works lapping tool that I'll actually use in the video to square up the end of the upper receiver to the centerline of the bolt path and I have a Fulton Armory bolt from what I've read the criterion barrels were headspace to Fulton armory bolts so when Eddie got that era of precision Radian Raptor charging handle SLR rifle works adjustable gas block air precision rifle length gas tube an era precision complete lower which I again I got a pretty good deal on that if I had to piece it together it would cost me more I'm gonna switch out the trigger to a guy's li SS AE t stage trigger I've got a Magpul K two of them all to grip and a Magpul TRS chin three buttstock you know it came to the handguard I was looking for a round handguard I didn't have any luck something out there I didn't like the way the barrel nut mounted and I found this one on eBay a really good deal very precision made the only way you could adjust your rotation Howie Ruslana to the receiver would be to shim the barrel nut so I actually made this wrench I got a laser blank in Boston my 5/32 dowel pins off the master car said that it would fit perfectly with the aluminum barrel nut I've had issues we could distort them with just a few pins well after I got all this purchased I seen this Diamond Head thirteen and a half inch hand guard key mode mounts which I'm only going to have one for a bipod and I love that you've had some awesome ar-15 so I think I'm probably gonna ditch this round tube and use this one so that's pretty much all the parts let's get to the build all right one one of the first things I want to do is check the headspace and on it like guilty as much of anybody as putting together some a ours with parts that you haven't actually checked that with I really should know the proper way is to take the ejection pin spring out you can do it without it you just kind of work it in there and then rotate it into place and they will not engage that is the no-go gauge here we have the go gauge do it the same way into the barrel rotate it and this is a nice snug it is engaging there you have it feel comfortable with that the barrel and this bolt is said to have been headspace where the barrel is headspace to these bonuses holding armory bolts I don't know if I mentioned it in the parts breakdown but this is a 24 inch ball barrel profile 6.5 Creedmoor the next step I'm ELISA slapping tool this slides will be up receiver I'll leave that up good and use some lapping compound right on the face of this tool and what it does you know it make sure this surface is perpendicular to the bolt path and which squares your or aligns your barrel up perfectly with the bolt path when the barrel nut locks it down I don't know this is necessary but it's one more little step that I can do to try to make the firearm more accurate all right what am I using to secure my up receiver and device these plastic blocks retainers my collet from a company called plastic X it's an X instead of a C on the end of plastic they fit really nice real precision fit up and probably explained when I start installing the barrel a little more a lot use these over some other upper receiver retaining devices I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about the rods that engage the splines on your barrel I mean these are precision points that your bolt locks up against I just don't feel comfortable about torquing against those see these videos where these guys were sliding those things in and out and kind of makes me cringe plus that's taken which is good in a sense it takes all the torque off your up and receiver because the only thing that's locked is your barrel but if you think about it when you're torquing the barrel nut against this this is the threads that you're actually talking against the only thing that's keeping this from rotating is that engagement pin and that little notch right there so I didn't really have a warm fuzzy about putting any torque against that point so if you're retaining your barrel only and not your upper receiver and you're torquing against that barrel nut it's just my opinion guys I just didn't feel comfortable about distributing that rotating force against that notch okay admah upper receiver secured in the vise lubricated inside of it with some Amazon fire lubricant because I don't want anywhere on the inside of it applied a thin layer the lapping compound on the face of the tool so I'm looking at doing is making sure from this black anodized all know it's true once it's all the same color once its silver check it up with my drill I'm just gonna go about this slowly a little bit more it looks like it squared up pretty good used to slide them out it where I can see a little bit more and then she'll get lapping compound up into the receiver and wear anything that I don't need to wear out it's like I might have a little low spot right there so I'm good do it again lapping compound inside okay this should be the last time I have to do this okay what I got now is a nice silver ring around it that lets me know that everything is on the same plane so I'm gonna stop on the head okay I'm getting ready to put the barrel on the upper receiver and I realized one thing that the barrel nut I had purchased with the diamond head handguard it was 18 threads per inch in my receiver 16 so I had to order another one I did a little drive fit on it right before I started the video and I was like oops I was so caught up in the good sell on this thing these things are usually over two hundred dollars primary arm sound for seventy seven dollars on sell you had to shipping on that and I couldn't resist it but I didn't even look at the thread diameter or thread pitch size so now we're back ready to go so I took this barrel nut and it puts man eye sees on the surface on the inside that actually slides on this surface or torques against that surface on the barrel against the receiver and once again I'm going to use the up receiver blocks to secure the receiver I don't feel too good about the tools that secure the barrel by the splines on the barrel extension I got some good barrel blocks I didn't feel good about using them because any torque since the receivers not secured will be against that one little alignment pin on the upper receiver so I'm gonna secure the barrel I mean up receiver scuse me I'm a barrel block I mean this receiver what all right when secured and advice I want this area here really secured even those things should be supplying even pressure across it up a receiver but you have the big opening here for your ejection port and this would be a weak area so any torque I apply on the barrel nut I don't want to twist my up receiver so I'm putting my contact points on my vise centered best that I can with the line of the pulp path you know just snugging it down real secure they insert the barrel it's a nice snug fit everything's fitting really good and flat since I treated up a receiver with the hunting tool and the laughing compound slide the barrel note over and secured by the recommended torque for the barrel nut was thirty five to eighty pounds and I had this barrel nut wrench that made for the other hand guard and I had a hard time finding a one and three-eighths crowfoot so I bought a socket and I cut it down TIG welded the one 3/8 socket to this stainless with some 3:09 TIG wire so I've got a dual barrel nut now slide that over the barrel and engage the barrel nut the first thing I want to do is kind of season barrel nut so I'm going to torque it three times recommended torque settings or thirty five to eighty pounds so I'm gonna I'm gonna start out small I'm bad about over torquing things right then I'm gonna back off three times the season threads and I will use my torque wrench to reverse that's one think I'm gonna move it up to about 45 for the final he did get a little bit of amplified torque force with the torque wrench being that distance from the contact point there's a formula for that it adds a certain percent but I still felt like it would fall well between the 35 and 80 so there you have it that's the barrel secure to the up receiver and say the next process will be putting the gas block and the gas t-bone all right if you're working with roll pins it's good to have a roll pen starter punch that'll kind of capture the roll pin when you get it started and not bend it and twist it and then when you're driving it in have a roll pin punch it's got the little extension there that captures the idea of the roll pin I'm using my barrel block to try to secure this hope you don't slide around a whole lot so that's pretty much it gasps tape secured I don't know if you can see it but the hole and the gas tube is aligned with the hole in the gas block and it's made to install on the barrel this is adjustable gas block I'll probably start out with a low set and where it might not actually eject and then I'll move it up to it I feel comfortable about it ejecting okay what I did now was put the barreling up receiver back my barrel blocks on the vise and I leveled the rail on up the receiver so that could kind of killed two birds one stone I can gasps Steve gasp lock in and put my muzzle brake on because the handguard will slide over it and I can level the muzzle break also if you don't know much about AR platforms you have a hole in the barrel when the bullet passes by the expanding gases go up through that hole in through the hole in the gas block through this tube into the upper receiver and into this connection and the bold and that's what drives the bolt back then cycles the firearm so now that I've got that level I'm on slide this gas plot and this is adjustable and it means that screw will let more or less gas in or out of it so I can kind of adjust it to what kind of loads I'm shooting so it's not slamming the bolt back too hard or if it's filling to eject I can let more gas out you know send more to the bolt so what I did I put a small scribe mark on the barrel in line with the gas hole and I did actually measure the distance from this edge to the hole there to make sure that when I did seated up up against that that it would be over the hole and holding the gas block slightly bigger said gives you a little bit of tolerance there and a good thing about this type of barrel nut is that you don't have to align it you don't have to you're not going through the barrel nut you don't have to align it perfectly and you can torque it the way you want it torque it so one less headache worried about I kind of like that about these Diamond Head hand guards now I'm going to line this with the center line I did I'm looking down the center line of the gas plot there let me get a little closer and this is a clamp style so I'm all the way in on the line put a little bit of thread Locker on the screws it's a little bit of blue loctite I start snugging it down and make sure it doesn't rotate off the centerline make sure it's up against the machined edge on the bone everything looks good so one thing I did I got this wheeler fat ranch that you can adjust the torque on and I lasered this little profile here because it's kind of like opening a ketchup jar that gives you a little more torque it engages on these little divots in the ridge itself instead of you're trying to stay perfectly aligned and torquing against that it really helps it just gives you something to get a little torque on with it so I said it through the recommended torque settings for the screen size that was the minimum I think I'm gonna go up just a hair on that said the way you set these things just pull back and adjust it didn't make a big difference so having that in my hand it's a lot easier alright so there's the gas block installed going into the up receiver the next step will be putting a muzzle brake on before I put the muzzle brake on I do want to make sure that not Oh engaging good and it is with the gas to you you don't want to get too far into things about doing one shake all right I sent it on a wound on the small side of the lock crush Washington to get the alignment that I felt good about with the muzzle brakes I'm gonna put just a thin layer of anti-seize on this rascal I'm gonna get crazy with it put the crush washer on put some tape around the muzzle brake suck it torque it down with an adjustable so what I did I kept turning on that small face till I got to the point that I felt good I could torque it down level it out without putting too much torque on or putting too much pre-stress on the end of the barrel so now all I do is uh check the level on the up receiver you know screw the muzzle break - let's elope that looks really good on the same side so while I'm ahead alright your muzzle brakes installed on these a little bit of cleaner just to get the glue residue off of it pretty much there yeah that's the barrel muzzle brake gas teeth are ona up resi root symbol not much else to these upper receivers you've got a pin that holds the port assist and a spring in front of that and then that does point assembly so not a whole lot of to those things so what I did at home the upper receiver said that the barrel engagement would be in line with the bolt path installed a barrel toward the barrel nut down to the proper sentence installed the gas block gas tube and muzzle brakes and next will be the Diamond Head handguard these are symbols I have this is advice on a clamp plate and I'm gonna practically move it around barrel blocks using for all kinds of things with the visor off the vise really cool and if you look at the barrel I snug them down pretty good to retain a barrel while I was doing the gas tube and Barrel block and no marks at all on it so aluminum does not mark the stainless so the next thing I'm gonna do is okay I'm ready to put the diamond head handle on this comes with some spacers not exactly sure the function of these if you clamp it to the barrel minute apply some blue loctite I wanna show you Adams with phase they engage in these grooves that keeps the handguard from sliding forward it's really like these hand guards I mean once they're on they're really they don't move you feel really good they look cool in their light you do that to align your rotation but after you align it they do not move once again I got my wheeler fat wrench set on the proper torque setting for those screws Snug them down and check my alignment while it looks pretty good just take the time snugging it down make sure nothing's rotating all I'm still looks great so one cool thing about these wheeler Farage's comes with a paper giving you proper torque settings for the right size screws you know I believe these are on number 10 so the 40 to 45 settings really close to that I'm a little laser and catch a bottle opener on here while still looks good let me scale with the gas pot not planning on using the rail on top of that for anything the only thing I'm going to do is put a [Music] keymod rail in the very front for a bipod so I'm just going back and forth putting equal torque on it till they they start ready to stop rotating there you have it okay and installed a young keymod rail section only for a bipod other than that I don't care about having anything attached to this far arm on the rail might even take that off if I end up hunting with it so that's pretty much it the complete upper okay I got my lower receiver gently mounted and my bias when my barrel blocks got some tape in it just to keep from Martin just barely lightly snug it down I'm gonna take the trigger out I'm gonna sum these pushpins I hope I don't have to use a punch but um I have to you just going to lightly tap on it [Music] oh you move the arrow precision trigger that came with the lower install the guys li SS AE T stage I really like these triggers and one thing makes this go a little bit easier is having its late end guys lee sin's them with this slave pen makes the whole thing just a little bit easier yot worry about trying to align a bunch of different things so your disconnect and your trigger time already in line and the little slave pen just punches out the other side [Music] gentle tap there you have it make sure that Springs in the right position there that can be a little aggravating sometimes that is a really sweet treasure guys li SS a super semi-auto enhanced I beliefs what it stands for okay now I'm gonna rotate it in the vise and change the grip out just gently snugging which a socket head screw down the center of the grip you want to be careful when you take it off because there is a spring in it and a little detent that keeps the safety fire selector in place you see the spring you don't want to lose that fly before and gotten this with again take spring out of that and put it into my mag pool make sure that it goes back into the detent see if I can navigate this and that's how you mount the grip pretty much this lowers is completely hundreds of videos out there how to do the other assembly on these there's not that much to it I'm just basically showing you what I did with my bill Eric precision makes nice stuff really high quality I had to buy all the individual components separately it would have cost me more than catching this complete lower everything's working really smooth alright so next I'll put the buttstock on it's nothing really complicated about installing this Magpul PRS stock not a lot to it as far as the installation goes I do wonder if they're going to come out with a different length of these to change your length to pull a little bit shorter because I've got it all the way to the smallest set and then I I'd be happy if it was a quarter inch shorter it's not a big guy and I like a small trigger pull if I'm gonna use this for hunting got a little bushing you install there nothing complicated about that would help if I had to fit in there it gave a pretty healthy torque setting but I'm just gonna do it by hand I feel yeah one more screw on this side and there you have it that's pretty much the complete lower Emily's on this build okay I got them up and I lower complete I'm gonna go ahead and assemble it I made them up there she is I don't have a name for yet but she'll figure out one everything feels really tight really good precision machining on it cheers really sweet one other thing I'm gonna mount on it at the moment is this UTG bipod for the price these things are really nice I bought one I was kind of skeptical cuz it because of the price but it's stamped sheet metal some machine parts but really robust I can't find anything I don't like about these I think I caught this one on sale for under 30 bucks you know actually bought another one like I said I cannot find anything I do not like about these so I'm going to stick this on here and as a quick lock you set a little lever lock pop it on and off you can adjust the tension by that screw there you have it it's my second YouTube video so bear with me my faults like working on guns like working on all kinds of stuff built this thing on the welding table actually excuse me assembled it I don't like use water build that's the guys that do all the machine I'll show another clip with it outside good video of it out in the light see there yeah thanks well I couldn't seem to catch the weather good enough to take some shots outside when I wasn't working we've had some nasty weather on the weekends but anyway this is a rifle figured a black coat he would be a good backdrop for it kind of give you a little history of how it came about wanting to build this gun really was gonna get a chasis rifle but thought I'd come out on the cheaper side and just put a barrel on it him a p10 well can I didn't want to do away with my 308 barrel on the mm p10 so I went to the router just build another upper receiver well I got there a precision upper receiver and it will not match him and p10 Smith and Wesson M&P 10 lower receiver the lugs on the upper receiver with the takedown pin holes when I go deep enough into a Smith & Wesson M&P 10 lower receiver it's noticeable difference probably 1520 thousands if I had to guess I did not measure it so basically that was the beginning I ended up getting a lower and all the other parts and garden buy stock so it looks like it's gonna be a pretty nice rifle hoax good next videos will be with whenever I can afford and put a decide to what kind of scope I'm gonna put on it appreciate you all watching

Channel: Lonnie 270

Views: 8,373

Rating: 4.8064518 out of 5

Keywords: 6.5 Creedmoor, Fulton Armory, Criterion Barrel, Aero Precision, Geissele SSAE, Diamondhead handguard, SJC Titan, Magpul PRS, G&G Rifle Works, Raptor Charging Handle

Id: WcWz9I2pPSk

Length: 49min 55sec (2995 seconds)

Published: Tue May 14 2019