5 top garden design tips - and 2 mistakes to avoid! Plus 'before' and 'after' shots

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I've got five really good garden design tips here  for you, plus two mistakes to avoid. I've been up   to London to talk to the Charlotte Rowe Garden  Design consultancy to talk to Charlotte and her   design director, Tomoko Kawauchi about what you need  to know when you're having your garden redesigned   or trying to do it yourself. Charlotte Rowe Garden  Design is one of the UK's leading garden design   companies and they've won many awards including  a gold at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show - it's Alexandra   here from the Middlesized Garden YouTube channel  and blog, and I'll put links to Charlotte Rowe   Garden Design and any other resources we mention  in the description below, along with time stamps   so you can jump to whichever part of the video  you'd like to see most. If you're new here the   Middle-sized Garden uploads weekly with tips, ideas  and inspiration for your garden and if you'd like   to see the videos when you open up YouTube tap the  'subscribe' button - they're free - and if you'd like   YouTube to tell you when a new video is uploaded  then tap the 'notifications' bell. Charlotte and   Tomoko say that there are three things that  are very important when people come to them   to have their gardens designed and number  one is the taste and style of the owner.   Number two is the architecture or the interior of  the house, but number three is the function and the   structure of the garden - that's very much the hard  landscaping it's things like paths and terraces   and where you put somewhere to sit, it can be ponds,  it can be paving and of course this is the really   expensive stuff - it's the stuff that's difficult to  change, so it's really worth getting it right first   time. So garden design tip one is 'put function and  structure first' .Make a list of what you need to   do in your garden, what you can see, where the sun  falls and anything else that you think is relevant.   Well, the first thing we do is just discover what  the clients do, their lifestyle, what they need in a   garden, their family makeup etc and we work out the  functionality of it. One of the key things is   to look at the light as well, and the way you use  the garden, so if if the area close to the house   doesn't get any sun, there's no point creating a  terrace there - we much prefer to create a terrace   somewhere else, probably further down the garden  as a destination - a journey. What's   there on site is very important - existing trees,  it could be the where the light travels, it could   be 'is there the nice view to look at?' That's also  important - you want to place the terrace wherever   the best view is, but also having a  shade is important for dining terrace, for example,   while if you're designing a seating terrace, you  want to place it where you get the west setting sun.   I used to write about interiors and I interviewed  a lot of interior designers and with interior   designers and garden designers, this issue comes  up quite a lot, because we, as amateurs - that's   me and perhaps you- tend to get very fixed on a  certain thing like a piece of furniture that we   definitely want to use or a planting design - we  want a particular color scheme in our planting,   and the rest of the garden we kind of lose  track of - and it becomes about 'what shall I   have here?' or 'Where do I put this?' whereas the  professional designer will take a step back,   look at it all as a whole and also see some of  the problems like 'have you got sloping ground?',   what about drainage problems, could there be  flooding and, of course, what about services - things like electricity or water? We can  see the space in a bigger scale - well, if   you are the client, you probably focus  too much on what plants you want to have   or what furniture you want to have - I don't know -  but as a designer, we see the space as a whole,   one large space. You obviously need training to  do a proper scale drawing of a garden design   but if you just take a piece of paper and draw  out what garden designers would call a bubble plan,   just looking at where you might have the terrace,  where you might have a seating area for a drink   in the evening, storage, play areas, practical  areas and don't forget to include what you see   because a view isn't always rolling countryside  it could be a church spire, it could be a   neighbor's tree or it could be something you  don't want to see like an ugly street lamp.   Tip two - think laterally, think across the garden,  not down the sides. Now particularly if it's in   town gardens and medium-sized gardens,  quite often those either too narrow   or too wide or whatever - something we do  do a lot is to break the space up laterally ,  so that the garden is not all seen at once, it's  broken by either low hedging or planting beds or   planted rills or gravel paths or whatever, so  the eye then goes down the garden to the end  - not too fast - the eye travels down. In a way you're  fooling with perspective, so it might mean, for   example, like we've done here putting planting beds  close to the house which then break the garden up   but then create a large space beyond for the  garden to be used. So particularly if it's   long and narrow, which often town gardens are - and  decent-sized town gardens are often long and narrow -  this really helps the space. Otherwise it just  looks really long - if you put one huge bit of   grass in lawn, it'll look like nothing - the eye can't read  how big the space is or it thinks it's very small,   so it's very important to break it up structurally  and and visually. And if you look at this computer   generated design of a garden that they're going  to do, you can see how the paving is actually   wider than it is deep and it's separated by  some planting and that planting can be trodden   on. There's lots of little plants that will  grow happily in cracks like thyme or soapwort   or some of the mints or even sedum. Tip three - make your fencing, your walls or your trellis   dark! Paint them dark, really dark not white. We do  a lot of black paints - it's actually not black, it's   very, very dark gray - black's often a bit harsh -  we do a lot of dark trellis, fencing, walls and bits   and pieces. Dark colours recede and make surfaces seem further away, so it feels bigger and wider - it's another   come closer to you, so you might think in a small  garden, you can make it feel lighter if you paint a wall   or a fence in a light color or white, but actually  what you'll do is you'll define the boundaries   and you'll make it feel just a little more closed  in. Garden design tip four - bring the planting close   to the house. Often with low trees because what  that does is it brings the garden into the house,   but it also punctuates the view and it also  creates 'oh, what's beyond there?' kind of feel to   it - it creates a sort of... a welcome, if  you like, so we often do that. In this garden here   where we're sitting now, we did do that- we create  maybe promontories of planting or promontories   of something else and then it interrupts the  view and then your eye goes down the garden.   Now this brings the garden inside and it means you  can enjoy the lovely greenery, you know immediately   you can see it from the window, you're immersed  in the garden and also because you can't see   the garden quite so well, the eye sort of wants  to look a bit beyond, so it's a bit more about   fooling the perspective. And this takes me on to  tip five, which is if you've got a small garden,   make sure that it's predominantly evergreen.We  like to use evergreen because people get    the year-round interest. When the garden is small  and the planting bed is small, we can't really   have a herbaceous border, because there's  nothing there to see in the winter. And of course   if you love flowers, you can always bring pots and  containers in and really work that, and change them   over a few times a year. In Charlotte's own garden,  she's got some evergreen close to the house and I   really love these balls - they're yew balls and  beech balls, because box balls, of course, now   it's not wise to plant them because box tree  caterpillar and box blight has really affected   box in most of the UK and it's spreading around  the world. I've got a video on alternatives to   box, which I'll put in the description below, but  I just think this yew is lovely and also the beech,   which is not technically evergreen, its leaves  do die in the winter but they stay on the plant,   so this will be a lovely foliage contrast in  the winter. Sometimes it can be really helpful   just knowing what to avoid because it gives  you the opportunity to do lots else creatively   around that - you just avoid that one thing and  the first 'garden design tip to avoid' is 'don't   center the garden.' One mistake that people often  make is they think you have to centralize a garden   on the house, you don't, you should pick out two  things, first of all what you want to see, so the   that will be the focal point. You also need  to think about the symmetry of the house or the   shape of the house and the way the windows and  doors work where you come out into the garden,   and how you look into the garden - so we're not  keen on - we very, very rarely centralize   gardens - we might do if it's a detached house and  it's very symmetrical - you know Georgian - and everything perfect,  but it's so rare that that's the case. Particularly in town houses (English town houses)   all over England and the UK tend to be  asymmetrical, they don't tend to be centered,   so we would design the garden according to that,  so that you have a focal point and you have a view.   So for example in my garden here you  can see the fireplace, which is there, that's  set to one side, you can see it right from the  front door as you come into the house. Charlotte's   own house is a terrace in london and it's got the  front door on the left hand side and, although the   back door is now a glass wall, it used to be on the  left-hand side too, so she's taken the focal point   from the front door on the left-hand side of the  house. You go in and look right through the house to   the garden - the main focal point is the fireplace  and that's on the left-hand side, lining up with   the front door and what would have been the back  door. I quite often get queries from people who   say that they have trouble in marrying  up the architecture of their house and their   garden, because they say 'well, my house is quite  modern, it doesn't really have any architecture'   and if you feel that that's your house, then just  think about where the doors and the windows are,   what view do you see from the windows, what focal  point would you like to see from the windows,   and how do you line the front and back doors up,  rather than centering the garden on a sort of   mythical 'what might have been' central front  and back door that actually never existed. And   garden design mistake number two is 'don't make  your borders too small' particularly if you've   got a small garden, it may be tempting to make the  borders equivalently small but plants need room   to grow and increasing the size of your planting  space is so helpful. Here's the before and after of   a house in Chiswick designed by Charlotte Rowe  Garden Design and you can see thatin the 'before'   everything's neat and tidy, they've tried to make  the most space for the path and keep the border   narrow and used a very clipped hedge and then  afterwards there's a lush planting and a sense of   richness and abundance and in fact it almost  looks bigger in the second photograph because   this lush planting gives you the feeling that it  could just go on forever, and of course the borders   are not very defined - and that's the advantage of  having really big borders and lots of planting, it sort of blurs the boundaries of your  garden and it doesn't make it quite so obvious where it all starts and finishes. Garden designers  do much more than just make things look pretty,   they first have the grand overview and  work out where everything should be,   they draw up plans to scale, they get involved  with how the services run, where you're going   to run the electricity in the water, for example , if you've got a sloping site or any difficulties   like that, they'll work with a surveyor and  of course ,they can manage the whole project .  It's probably worth saying there's a difference  between garden designers and landscapers because   landscapers actually do the heavy lifting, they  build the paths and the walls and the pergolas   and some landscapers do have a garden designer  in the staff, but many don't, so you can't   necessarily go to a landscaping company  and expect to get garden design out of it.   If you're looking for a good garden designer then,  I'll put a link to the Society of Garden Designers   in Britain - and there are equivalents all over  the world - and you can usually find a member and   then that will certify that they have a certain  standard of practice and ability. Check out other   garden design videos in my 'best garden design  videos' playlist at the end of this video and   if there's anything you'd like a video on about  garden design - any aspect of garden design you'd   like to hear more about, then do let me know in the  comments below and thank you for watching, goodbye!
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Channel: The Middle-Sized Garden
Views: 64,688
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Keywords: Garden tips, easy gardening, inspirational gardens, small backyard, garden ideas, small garden, middlesized garden, middlesized backyard, backyard garden, gardening advice, small space garden, urban gardening, english garden, gardening, garden, how to garden, gardening for beginners, small garden design, sustainable garden, gardening ideas, garden tips for beginners, gardening tips, garden design, garden design ideas, garden design tips, garden design tips and tricks
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Length: 13min 1sec (781 seconds)
Published: Sat Jul 31 2021
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