48 Hour Captain Enoch Helmet Build

today we're going to attempt something a bit crazy recently I was sent the kitty X+ 3 and I've spent the last week testing it out and basically printing on it non-stop at 24/7 I will be doing a full in-depth review on the machine in the future but spoiler alert I really really like this printer one of its biggest advantages is that it can print incredibly fast so I thought it might be fun to put that to the test and see if I can pull off a project start to finish in 48 hours like going from a roll of plastic to a fully finished prop in 48 hours and I wanted to keep things topical So today we're going to be building Captain Enoch's helmet from Ahsoka it looks like a pretty cool build and I wanted to try using the same techniques that they used on the screen used helmet which are definitely on the more unique side so with all that being said let's start getting things printing the file I'll be using today for Enoch is the VC 3D and Walsh 3D model which will of course be linked in the description along with anything else applicable in in this video the details on this file are incredible there's a smooth version and a textured version of this model I mostly printed the textured versions of the pieces as they already had the cracks molded into them I'll be printing everything on the X+ 3 but using abs for a change this ended up being the first real print project that I'd ever attempted in ABS this machine is more than capable of being able to handle this trickier filament and I wanted to utilize the properties of ABS to my advantage specifically how easy it is to sand even though I'd slowed the speed settings down a bit to compensate for using ABS this printer was still flying through these pieces the longest print job was by far the Dome piece which makes sense because it's practically the entire helmet even that was only a 17-hour print job though in total all of these pieces took 28 hours and 45 minutes to complete which to me for an entire life-size helmet fdm printed is very fast and these prints were clean mean first of all the support material in a lot of cases was just falling off and most of the other areas the surface quality on the piece itself was very good considering the crazy overhangs some of these areas had I didn't put any support in the middle of the Dome and there was hardly any stringing or mess left there at all I know white filament isn't necessarily the easiest to see layer lines on but these pieces are just straight from the printer minus the support material and just like look how clean they are I'm not sure if it even really picks up on camera this was with my phone which if anything is going to show crazy layer lines and texture it's a phone camera and since these pieces looked so great straight from the printer and they were ABS I was feeling pretty confident about being able to pull off this 48 Hour project even though an entire 24 plus hours was spent just getting these pieces printed I started off by f in down any of the roughest edges which were typically anywhere where there was support material and then switched to my handy dandy foot sander which I'm very happy to announce Works absolutely fantastically with abs here's what the top of the Dome looks like sanded and unsanded I know it looks like a trick because there's literally no lines on the sanded part and that is why ABS is now probably my go-to filament for prop making this thing did not look like an fdm print by the time I was done sanding it looked like a helmet cast there was not like a single visible layer line on the entire thing and a couple of layers of filler primer filled in any possible small areas that I might have missed sanding to keep things as time efficient as possible I did start with the Dome because I figured of any of these pieces that that was possibly going to need the most work done on it and while I was waiting for that filler primer to set and then take a look at it I then continued on working on the other smaller pieces which I use the same steps for so filing down the roughest edges foot sander a bit of hand sanding and then two layers of filler primer and that was it that was the only preparation these pieces needed before they were perfectly smooth which is absolutely unheard of for me I did lightly sand them after just to sort of get rid of that overspray texture that they can get but other than the Dome that I did still do that sort of polishing sanding to it with like 400 Grit sandpaper the very top of the Dome still had a few visible lines which is completely normal it's just how domes end up printing the top surfaces can be pretty visible just with the stepping layers of filament so I added a couple of layers of my UV resin filler mixture cured that sanded it and then it was perfectly smooth and because I had sanded these pieces so thoroughly I felt that I might have gotten rid of a bit of the depth in the cracks and so I decided to go over all of them with a Dremel which is actually how the cracks were supposedly put into this helmet to begin with so even if I didn't feel that the cracks had become more shallow than I would have liked through the sanding process I might have done this anyway just for accuracy sake and not going to lie the step was really fun it's a tool that I don't frequently get to use and I really was just tracing the cracks that were already there and making them more pronounced and by the end these pieces looked so cool with all of the white cracks against the gray and that was it for all of the post-processing on these pieces so I decided to glue everything together with a two-part plastic epoxy this was the quick set JB Weld one so is a 5 minute working time which you know you've got to be quick about it but it also means it sets really fast so when time is of the essence I didn't have to wait around for 24 hours for this thing to set I did give it a decent few minutes minutes though and once I felt that it was nice and secure I went ahead and sprayed this white I used a satin white a couple of coats of it I didn't bother coating the front of the face because it's going to get covered later and really doesn't matter if it's white to begin with while I was waiting for this paint to dry I went inside and made myself some stencils using masking film and my Cricut from various reference photos I gauged that these cogs should be about 45 mm wide but the real tricky part is actually getting these cogs lined up properly on the helmet I'm using a bunch of like drawing techniques here which is one of the very many times that I'm glad that I'm used to drawing and painting stuff but if you're wondering to my best estimation from the upper part of that brim Ridge it's about 45 mm again but the trick is really to just take your time Mark things out gently with a pencil I did a horizontal line to Mark where the bottom of the Cog should go and also a vertical line where I felt the one spoke of the Cog should be so like my estimated middle of the Cog since it is facing upwards at an angle pointed towards the middle of the helmet just use reference photos I really don't know how better to explain this just make sure you take your time and add a decent barrier with extra tape around your stencils to make sure there's no unfortunate incidents with the red paint that we're going to be airbrushing on in a minute of course the Imperial cogs could be put on this helmet with a paintbrush I just figured that the best way for me to get really nice crisp lines would be with an airbrush and stencils while I was waiting for that paint to dry I went ahead and started to paint these little end detail bits black but then it was time to remove all of the masking to find out just how good or bad this stencil job was which I was pleasantly surprised to see that other than a few minor touch-ups this was actually a pretty successful masking job and both Imperial cogs also looked like they were pointing in the right direction at a vaguely even distance but of course this helmet does not have pristine Imperial cogs on its forehead so it's time to scuff them up for this I was using a scotchbrite pad I find they work really well to give it a nice weathered look without doing too much damage to other layers of paint and after a few little touch-ups with some white paint around the cogs it was time to start adding the gray again I did this by hand in a paintbrush I just really could not be bothered to mask all of these sections off again trying to be pretty Speedy here so a couple of layers of this gray paint and it was looking perfect and now for the fun part the gold for the show they used gold leaf to keep it more authentic to the kungi process which if you don't know is the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold and is what Enoch's helmet is heavily influenced by amongst other things now it had been quite a while since I'd used gold leaf last but it's a fairly simple process you start by applying the the gilding adhesive you typically let that sit for half an hour so that it can get tacky before then going ahead and applying the gold leaf sheet now as a warning this can get very messy very fast so I tried putting them on with the like paper that keeps the sheets separated still on it I did it by hand I tried applying it with a foam brush to see if that worked which it definitely did I then switched to more of a paint brush just so that I could get into more of the cracks on the face the foam brush worked really well the nice thing is that the gold leaf itself it kind of doesn't really matter if it goes on quote unquote messily or Bunchy like it will look about the same smoothness regardless of what you do to it so in that regard it's a pretty simple process that I feel like anyone could do but it does get messy very fast half of the time I spent gold leafing this thing was spent cleaning up all of the extra pieces of gold on my desk on the helmet there was a lot of Gold Everywhere I will probably be finding gold leaf in my workshop for the next 20 years but it looks absolutely incredible so it was well worth it and it was a really fun change to do something like this on a prop it's not something that I might ever get the chance to do again other than if I was maybe making a night trooper that also has these gold cracks but once I had managed to get as much of the extra Gold Leaf that I possibly could off of this helmet I did go over all of the larger Parts with the varnish just so that I didn't accidentally scratch any of this Leaf off it is a very thin material that I could see quite easily getting accidentally chipped so wanted to do that just to protect it but then it was time to glue on the final detail parts so the upper brim Ridge the eyes and then the chin detail piece now on to the final step of this helmet build weathering there is no way given the story of these Troopers and all of the cracks that have needed to be repaired on this helmet that this thing is going to be pristinely white so for the weathering I used one of my favorite techniques which is airbrushing on for lack of a better description dirty paint water it is a very watery black brown paint mixture a lot of the times you will see people applying this with a brush but I just find the airbrush is so much easier it goes on a lot more evenly you can choose to spray more water on top of it if you want to remove even more and just overall I find that it gives a really interesting and realistic weathered look you can very easily direct the airbrush spray into areas that would have a much heavier or darker weathering and just it looks great at the end super super simple I highly recommend trying out this weathering method if you never have decent weathering really is the one step that will take your prop to the next level and it really is not that difficult I basically just plied an even coat of this weathering technique all across the helmet and here is the finished Enoch helmet thank you again to kitty for sending over the printer I definitely would not have been able to pull this project off in the time frame that I was able to without the X+ 3 but I hope you all enjoyed seeing the process of building this helmet thank you so much for watching and I will see you in my next video

Channel: M.M's Prop Shop

Views: 47,546

Keywords: studioofmm, studio of mm, mm prop shop, 3d print, 3d printing, 3d printed, star wars, prop building, prop replica, resin printed, ender 3, tutorial, qidi, qidi tech, qidi x plus 3, ahsoka, enoch, dave filoni, captain enoch, ahsoka finale, thrawn, grand admiral thrawn, screen accurate, life size, best 3d printer, print in abs, abs filament, stormtrooper, star wars costume, bambulab, fast 3d printer, sabine wren, ezra bridger, night trooper, star wars cosplay, 3d print helmet

Id: kQmmJiWIr_s

Length: 12min 41sec (761 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 07 2023