Making an Umbra ARC Trooper Helmet from Battlefront 2

hello to newcomers and welcome back my lovely subscribers to the Galactic armory it's another great day to be a Star Wars fan guys today I've got the battlefront 2 Umbra arc trooper for you guys I'm gonna show you how you can make your own from the ground up or from the 3d printed parts so let's get right into it so if you're new here I should tell you all of my helmets are gonna be 3d printed now if you don't have a 3d printer wear 3d printing is not really of an interest to you check out the timestamp in the description to skip ahead to the physical parts now I do also sell the physical parts in my shop so if you want to complete this project while also help supporting the channel be sure and check that out link will be in the description now the files that we're going to be using for this helmet come directly from my shop you can find them at galactic armory net under the 3d files section so if you want the files for this project this is where you're gonna find them once we have the files we can load them into our slicer and prepare them for printing the first thing we're gonna need to do is load up the helmet and meshmixer now this helmets a little bit too big to print in one piece so what we can do is slice the helmet into a few major parts and then print them individually and then assemble them after they've been printed so once you have your helmet in meshmixer we're going to need to level it out a little bit so just go to transform and here we can rotate the helmet a little bit we're trying to make it as flat as possible so that we can cut it as flat as possible so once you feel like you have a pretty flat go to plane cut now this is what's actually going to slice our helmet so we can move the little arrow to where we've want that slice to be be sure and select the keep both cut type so that it doesn't discard half of the helmet now once you hit accept it looks like it doesn't do anything but when we go to separate shells you can see that it's split it out into two parts for us now we'll need to do the same thing with the face we'll just adjust the cut a little bit and I like to put it somewhere inconspicuous since these seams can be kind of hard to hide in the future so just pick a spot that many people don't really look at too much I went for directly behind the ear so then out we've got our pieces all separated we export them and import the pieces into our slicer so here you see we've got just the face this is gonna fit a lot better on our build plate now if you guys have a smaller build plate you can cut up the helmet into even more pieces if you need to this is the technique that you will use to print any file on any print bed some of the print settings I typically use our 210° for the nozzle a sixty degrees for the bed five to ten percent infill three inner perimeter walls that's gonna give the print a lot more strength than just infill will plus if you have your infill really high it makes the print take a long time and use a lot of material for not a lot of benefit so once this helmet is fully sliced it's gonna take about forty six hours it is pretty typical for a face these helmets usually take at least a hundred hours to fully print so I hope you guys are prepared typically it takes one to two kilograms of filament but again that depends on your settings you know if you have them fill all the way up to 80% that's gonna use a lot more material than if you have it at five so once we've got the pieces all sliced and turned into g-code we can use that G code and the printers to get our prints so now that we've got our pieces either from you printing them yourself or from getting them from my shop we can start assembling the helmet now for this we're gonna need a few things along with our parts we've got a sandpaper pad glued to a flat surface some CA glue and some e6000 I also like to use a soldering iron that I don't really care about keeping clean anymore so the first step in assembly we're gonna take our sandpaper pad and sand down the edges of the helmet what this is gonna do is it's going to make the edges smoother so that the parts fit closer together it's also going to rough up the surface so that our CA glue binds a lot faster that way we won't have to hold the helmet in place for too long while the glue sets so here I'm just taking both edges of the helmet and rubbing them against the sandpaper pad until they feel a little bit dusty we'll repeat this process for the face the back as well as the top now that they're pretty well sanded we'll need to align the helmet and prepare it for gluing so we'll take our CA glue and add just a drop about every inch along the seam of the helmet now this glue is gonna bond pretty fast and talking 30 seconds or so before you have to really try and pry it off so we're gonna have to be very careful about our alignment here what I'll do is use my fingers along the edge to try and make sure that the pieces are flushed together and then I'll use my soldering iron till kind of weld the inside seam of the helmet to keep it in place just a little bit it's really important that you guys get the alignment correct here so if you feel like you're not getting it right in the first like 10 seconds or so don't feel bad about taking it apart resending it and reapplying glue because if this glue cures and the helmets in the wrong position you're gonna have a bad time you don't really need a soldering iron here I just use it to kind of hold the helmet in place after I've aligned the pieces that way they don't slide around after I've already glued them and once I feel the pieces are pretty lined I might take the soldering iron and weld the entire inside seam of the helmet just for some added strength now as a final reinforcement we'll take our East 6000 and apply it to all the seams on the inside of the helmet this stuff takes around 24 hours to fully cure so that's why we're doing it last but it's really gonna add a lot of strength to the helmet so that it doesn't fall apart on us now that we've got our helmet fully assembled we will move on to smoothing it now the first product we're going to be using for smoothing is bondo glazing and spot putty the stuff is kind of like a toothpaste that once it reacts with the air it will begin to harden over the course of four to six hours when working with this stuff you're gonna want some gloves as well as a respirator because it kind of does smell bad so what we're gonna do is just squeeze out a bit on the helmet and then rub it in with our fingers we want to get a full coverage with this stuff so apply it pretty liberally and we'll just apply it over the entire helmet I used to use filler primer first but I find that using bondo first saves a lot of filler primer you know when doing filler primer first it would take about three to four cans to get a fully smooth surface but instead you can use about one full tube of bondo which you can get at the grocery store which costs around like five dollars or so and then we'll probably only use one can filler primer so this technique is gonna save you guys some material so you can see me just working it in all the spaces of the helmet be sure to only apply the bondo in spaces that you know you'll be able to sand we don't want to apply it in any spots that are too detailed that we can't reach with some sandpaper be sure and apply a little bit extra along the seams of the helmet where we glued them together those are the spots that are going to be the most noticeable and we want to hide those seams as best as we can you can see I've got about half the helmet finished I'm gonna apply the other half and then we can start sanding first sanding I'm going to start with a 120 grit pad of sandpaper this is gonna make sure that we can get a lot of the bondo sanded off I'm just gonna go around the entire helmet sanding it all as best as I can and making it as smooth as I can now this is definitely one of the most tedious parts of the whole process so just stick with it your arm is definitely gonna get tired but it's all part of the fun you're gonna want to be sure and do this either outside or in a place that you can clean up pretty well because this makes a lot of dust that just settles everywhere you're also going to want to wear a respirator for this for the same reason the dust it's gonna be everywhere if you don't want to breathe that in and the respirator will help protect your lungs so you'll see me here just going around the entire helmet I grab a microfiber cloth to clean off some of the dusts whenever it starts to accumulate too much I also like to use the leaf blower for this because like I said your arms get pretty tired and the leaf blower does a pretty good job of cleaning off the helmet of dust so once the helmet is completely sanded it's still gonna be pretty rough that's gonna bring us into our next step the old familiar filler primer now the filler primer is like a really thick spray paint it's gonna do a great job at filling in the very tiny lines that the sandpaper scratched into the helmet we're also gonna use this in the very detailed areas that we didn't want to put any bondo since as an aerosol it can get into a lot of the smaller spaces you'll probably want to do one to two coats the filler primer waiting about 20 minutes in between each coat once the filler primer is fully cured we'll take a look at the helmet again and see if we missed any spots so it's pretty likely that there's still some very minor defects in the helmet like you can still see some print lines or a spot isn't exactly smooth and that's perfectly normal so what we'll do is we're gonna go over the helmet with our bondo again but this time we're only gonna do the specific spots that still need a little work this means we're also gonna have to do another round of sanding this time we're still gonna be using the 120 grit sandpaper pad but we'll be moving up to higher grits after this just to make sure a helmet is perfectly smooth before the final sanding I went ahead and added another layer of filler primer so for the final round of sanding I went up to a 240 grit pad of sandpaper you can go higher than this I've done 300 in the past and 400 but I feel like 240 is pretty good for what we're doing here now since this is the final round of sanding you want to closely inspect the helmet to make sure that you know you feel like it's ready for painting all of the seams from the pieces being glued together should not be visible there shouldn't be very many visible layer lines or horizontal lines of any kind but if there are it's not a problem just add more bondo add more filler primer and do some more sanding once you feel like the helmet is physically perfect we can begin painting so for the paint I'm going to be going with a proced Oleum flat black now when doing the base coat it's important to remember you that you don't have to get all of the color in in one shot you can do two or three layers of paint with rattle cans if you spray too much you're gonna get some runs and it just doesn't look great so be sure and take your time be patient you don't have to get it all in one shot also don't ask why the helmet is suddenly white I just completely forgot that every part of this helmet is either orange or black there is no actual white in this helmet at all so if you're gonna be doing more than one coat be sure and let it dry for at least 20 minutes in between coats once you've got a good base color of black all the way around the helmet we're gonna move on to taping the helmet in preparation for the orange so the taping for this helmet was probably one of the most complicated designs that I've done not nearly as bad as commander Wolffe but it was still pretty complicated so what I've done is I've loaded up battlefront two just to get a good you know reference image so that I can replicate the design in the tape now for the tape I've got the thin kind of white masking tape for the more intricate designs and we're going to be using the thicker blue tape just to protect the rest of the helmet so that we don't accidentally paint something orange now this process takes a long time and is pretty tedious but the better job you do here the better your helmet is gonna look if we rush this the paint job might look weird and trust me the paint job is something you want to get perfect so you're gonna see me tape something untape it and retype it probably three or four times I've also got the exacto knife with me to make very precision cuts in the tape also you can sketch out the design with a pencil if you're not quite sure what you want to do with it now it's important to keep in the frame of mind that we're taping off the things that we want to remain black we're not taping where we want orange to be I know I've done it a few times where I've accidentally taped over the wrong area there in my mind I'm thinking that I'm taping over the orange areas when you're not you're taping over the areas that you want to stay black because when we're done we're just gonna take the orange spray paint and just spray it on the face so that when we peel off the tape those areas underneath will remain black you're going to want to make sure that your tape has a good connection to the helmet if the tape is wrinkled or ruffled or not sticky enough it might come up from the helmet and in that case when we go to paint it paint is going to seep underneath that and mess up our design so that we don't have straight lines obviously we want to avoid that if we can so just rub your finger over the edge of the tape and make sure that it's stuck very well to the helmet so not a lot to say about this stuff just take your time don't be afraid to restart if you're not happy with how it's looking so once we've got the helmet finally taped up we're gonna go outside and do some painting so for the orange we're actually going to be using the same orange that I used in my captain video so be sure and check that out if you haven't already it's gonna be a resto liam satin rustic orange now when painting again you just want to be sure to do light coats for this helmet I did two coats of orange paint and be sure and wait about 20 minutes in between coats once that's done we can do one of my favorite parts of this whole build and remove the tape to reveal our design underneath once we've let the paint dry for about a day we can start to peel off the tape now for this you don't want to be too aggressive and peel it off too hard we don't want to accidentally peel up any of the black paint underneath you also want to try to avoid using your fingernail or scratching anything too hard for this I like to use the tip of my exacto knife to gently lift up a corner of the tape for me to peel off the rest now the brim above the eyes of this helmet is actually black so we'll need to do some more taping for that and then paint it black this tape job is pretty simple just use our masking tape to get the edge of the brim and we're also going to paint the the teeth of the helmet black as well so just use your small masking tape to define the details and then use the larger blue tape to protect the rest of the face from the black paint just use the same flat black that we used before for the brim and the teeth and we'll be good now that we've got the teeth and the brim painted black we've got the exact design of the helmet fully painted for the next step we're going to be gluing on the accessories now I've been sanding and painting the accessories just off to the side without filming because they're pretty simple they're all just solid black this helmet has a lot of black but they follow the same principles bondo filler primer sand now to glue the accessories onto the helmet we're gonna be using our East 6000 from before now this glue takes over a day to fully cure so in order for the pieces not to slip or accidentally fall off in that time we're gonna be taping them to the helmet the tape is gonna help support them and keep them in place while the glue sets the nice thing about this glue is that it is very very strong when fully cured so it should be able to hold the antenna the mouthpiece is the the center mouthpiece and the ear piece pretty well so once you have all the accessories taped in place let it sit for at least a day and then we'll come back to reveal our nearly finished helmet now once we take this tape off the helmet it's really gonna start coming together we've got just a few more things to do one we need some kind of backing behind the teeth for this I'm gonna be using mosquito netting layered over itself four times what this is gonna do is it's gonna give us the really good mesh look that's required by most 500 first CR ELLs and it's also going to prevent people from being able to look inside your helmet through the teeth holes to see your face so I got this mosquito netting just from Walmart there's only like a dollar so I don't feel too bad cutting it up just grab some scissors we're gonna cut out a very tall length of mosquito net so that we can layer it over itself three or four times now the layering is kind of necessary because just by itself with one layer you could still see through it pretty well but if you lay it lay it over itself three or four times becomes a lot thicker while still having the mesh texture to glue it in we're just gonna be using a hot glue gun it's pretty simple we're gonna lay down the layered mosquito netting over the mouth and then just use our hot glue gun to glue it down it is mosquito netting so the glue will just seep through all the layers and should stick to the base of the helmet you might have to use your fingers to kind of press down the glue to make sure that it goes all the way through the net but this is a pretty simple process if we get enough close look you can see that it's got a nice mesh texture in between the teeth that's really the look that we want now next we're gonna need a visor otherwise you look pretty dumb with your eyes poking through for this we're gonna be using a grinding shield now face shields are in pretty short supply now but if you look up on Amazon a grinding shield face shield you should be able to find maybe something we're gonna be using the leftover face shield from the captain Vaughn I'm gonna have to orient it a little bit differently here we've got to tilt it on its side so we can get the length all the way across the visor so we're just gonna cut out the basic shape with some scissors and then see how that fits on the inside of the helmet that's a whole divisor in place we're gonna be using a two-part epoxy putty now stuff comes in a tube it's got a gray exterior and a black interior now when you mix these two they chemically react and begin an exothermic reaction so they get hot but while doing that it also hardens very quickly I'm talking like 15 minutes or so so we're stick to little globs of epoxy putty in the two corners of the visor and we're gonna hold them down in place just for a few minutes until they start to harden then we'll repeat the process doing it in the bottom two corners this is really gonna hold the visor in place very well when the stuff fully hardens it hardens to like stone so the visor won't be going anywhere for the final part of the helmet we're gonna be doing a little bit of weathering and for that we're gonna be using an airbrush in the airbrush we're gonna have some black paint and then what we're gonna do is very gently apply a light coating of black and the crevices of the helmet and then just a little dusting around the entire orange design obviously this helmet is already mostly black so this is kind of a short process for this helmet we're gonna focus on adding black into the kind of the corners and seams of the helmet where dirt and grime would naturally accumulate this is gonna give it a very nice lived-in feeling and just give some reality to the helmet when weathering generally less is more so hold yourself back from going overboard and applying too much black everywhere but this is also the stage where you can express yourself if you really want a damaged helmet one that's like supposed to be a hundred years old Danya you would go a little bit overboard but if you're just wanting a regular helmet that's supposed to be present day just a light touch will do it you also don't have to do any weathering say if you wanted a shiny something that was fresh off Kamino you'd probably just want the helmet to be done there in that case the helmet would be brand new fresh so it would have no weathering so it's kind of up to you what you want the helmet to look like but now that we're done with weathering we have ourselves a completed Umbra our trooper I had a lot of fun with this project I really loved how battlefront 2 ended up turning around becoming a great game with some great clone troopers I'm very sad to see support ending for battlefront 2 but I am excited for the future of Star Wars I hope you guys enjoyed the video I hope you learned something and I hope you feel confident enough to take on a project like this yourself it really is very rewarding to make a clone trooper helmet like this this was always one of my dreams growing up as a kid to have the actual armor from the movies so I hope you're the same way the great thing about clones is that there is almost an unlimited variety of designs you could do you could do any of them from Canon which is probably at least dozens or you could make up your own and make it something unique so if you're interested in this I hope you give it a shot yourself I've got a lot more helmet tutorials on the way so be sure to be looking out for those until then I hope to see you guys again in the next video

Channel: Galactic Armory

Views: 851,899

Keywords: 3d printing, cr-10 3d printer, star wars 3d printing

Id: TARnu_KfEF4

Length: 20min 23sec (1223 seconds)

Published: Wed May 20 2020