3d Printing Large Objects

hi this rose to dr. max network and today we're going to look at how to go from printing this beautiful vase in three to four hours to printing this beautiful vase in one to two hours okay stay tuned and let's learn something together in 3d printing there are a number of variables that impact the speed you're able to print with given a single printer the type of filament has some impact the quality you're looking for has a significant impact if you use higher larger layer Heights you'll print faster with less quality less precision less detail but the other thing that has a significant impact on print speed is nozzle size but just as layer height impacts the quality of your print nozzle size impacts the quality of your print okay let's go to the screen and take a look at the concept of nozzle size so in the leftmost diagram you'll see a representation of a let's say a point four millimeter nozzle a standard nozzle if that nozzle is too far away from the print bed it will produce a very round bead of filament that bida filament will have trouble adhering to the print pet and as importantly layers will have trouble adhering one to another in the middle next picture the second diagram from the left you will see a diagram of a nozzle that's at the right height the bead is stretched out a bit and you'll see the actual bead is really a bit wider than the nozzle so you might have a point four meter nozzle but the beam might be 0.44 or even point five in the next diagram what you'll see is a nozzle of 0.4 where you're extruding less filament now you couldn't this could occur because you've set the flow rate lower or it could occur because you've set the line with lower if you have a point four millimeter nozzle the width of the nozzle defines the horizontal line the x and y dimension and but if you set your line width to less than your nozzle size you'll end up with a rounder bead that doesn't cover the full width of the nozzle now there are a number of reasons potentially for doing that one is if your extruder just can't keep up it can't push enough filament out now if we move over to the right-hand side you'll see a one millimeter nozzle it has the same characteristics depending on the Z height which is how close to the bed your nozzle is the layer height the ideal height of a layer the flow rate you will create in either rounder or wider B the filament the characteristics of that bead of filament will be very important to dictate the quality and strength of your model now let's go to the next diagram in this next diagram you'll see the impact of having a rounder bead or a more elongated bead if you have a wider elongated bead where you're pressing your layers together then you will get better adhesion between the layers and the reason is that more filament will be touching between the layers if you have a rounder bead you'll have less adhesion however in both cases a larger nozzle will allow you to do you a higher layer height while still obtaining spread and adhesion between the layers so in tuning your profile those are all characteristics you have to look at okay let's turn back and look at some models then we'll look at the specific parameters that I set in this case in Keira for these prints these prints were produced on a monoprice MP 10 with a point four or a one millimeter nozzle now the monoprice MP 10 is in essence a CR 10 Cree allottee CR 10 clone so everything I'm covering here will really cover the majority of filament based 3d printers it will specifically including these parameters be very similar to what you'd see on a CR line of printers so let's first look at this face so this face was produced on the MP 10 it is in spiral mode spiralizer mode in Keira many other slicers call that Vaes mode or single wall mode it is a beautiful print and so you can see the characteristics of this print a beautiful print but it is rather flexible now because of the ribbing it's not too weak however one of the things I found with this print is if you fill it with water it leaks a little bit it leaks a little bit and you have to remember that the width of the layers is really around point 4 millimeters now this phase yes it was printed taller but in fact this larger vase was printed in less time than this smaller base why this was printed with a one millimeter nozzle it is much stronger I mean dramatically stronger it is quite a bit heavier now it's bigger also but it's quite a bit heavier and it doesn't leak because the width of the bead is approximately 1 millimeter now in odd case you'll see it's set to 0.88 I find setting it to 1 my extruder can't quite keep up so 0.88 seems to work better for this particular printer but this is a beautiful print now if you look closely at these two prints you can see the layers a bit more on this print than this print so these are ideal cases for printing with large net nozzles printing a vase works really really well let's look at a more difficult case so this print here is an eyeglass holder works like this and it prints in this orientation now I like to use this eyeglass holder printed in this orientation because it's very easy to see the layers and it's also a pretty good test for stringing and strength because there's not a lot of plastic holding this together now the first couple prints with the one millimeter nozzle failed they printed correctly but effectively the adhesion of the layers was so weak that I could pull these arms right off and for these first couple prints I use sort of the rule of thumb which is that a line width that is the width of the bead that you're telling the slicer you'd like to obtain should be equal to the nozzle width in addition I use standard temperatures that did not work well I went through a number of tuning examples all basically failing in the same way now the advantage was they printed about twice as fast finally I came up with this one now on this one I had slowed down the printer I dramatically increased the temperature from about till 105 degrees C to about 220 C and I reduced the line width from 1 I had actually tried greater than 1 to 0.88 this is very very strong it printed very fast but you might be hard for you to see from this angle but there is terrible stringing now I don't really care about the string in this case because I'm not using this to produce the most beautiful models and produce using this to produce specialized models fast and there's an easy way to remove the stringing now I can continue to attempt to tune the profile to get rid of all the stringy or I can just take out my handy heat gun this heat gun was is a drill master sort of generic heat gun I believe it was purchased on Amazon about $20 you can find a variety of these that price if you turn on your heat gun and you point it at your model you will find that all of the springs seem to disappear what's happening is they're melting and retracting to the body so to get rid of springing very quickly you can just pick your model with a heat gun so now we have the same model with really no stringing it is pretty rough-looking though it is not a beautiful print this is a model with this type of geometry is not ideal for this printer unless you want to use it just to test in general you'll find that dimensional accuracy is retained with larger nozzles in general but the layers are really very rough so what's the ideal case that takes us to these models so this was produced on the MP 10 with a point four millimeter nozzle it is a beautiful beautiful vase and it took a little more than four hours to print but it is very very weak I don't know if you can see here I'll see if I can get an angle where you can see that if I squeeze this it feels like it's gonna break and it does not hold water this model was produced in about half the time looks just as beautiful in fact it's almost nice to see a little bit of the layers it's an interesting texture it is very very strong and I can fill it with water and put flowers in it so in conclusion printing with a one millimeter nozzle is fantastic for the right models and producing high speed now let's go back to the screen and take a look at the parameters I used so the first thing you'll see on this screen is I went into the Machine settings page of Keira I set the nozzle size to 1 millimeter everything else stays the same the next thing I did is I went from a layer height normally I print it point one six 2.20 to double that so I doubled the layer height to 0.4 millimeters however I did not set the line width all the way up to the nozzle size I left it at point eight eight I found when I set it all the way up to the nozzle size I either under extruded I didn't get the right shape bead and the adhesion between the layers was not good next you'll see I increased the printing temperature to 220 degrees and in fact I have the initial layer even a bit warmer than that and I have flowset at 105 percent these are all attempts to assist the extruder now on this MP 10 I do not have the stock extruder I replaced the plastic extruder with an all-metal extruder and ivic the Bowden tube with a Capricorn optimal Bowden tube both to help the extruder push out more filament next I reduced the print speed I normally run this printer at 50 maybe 60 millimeters per second I reduced it to 40 so I am printing in a slightly slower print speed but I'm printing it a good double the layer height so in general every bead is going to be much wider and much taller that means there's more plastic here that's why this is so strong finally in an attempt to reduce stringing a bit I increased coasting volume up to a millimeter and minimum volume before Coast to 2 millimeters I'm going to and those are millimeters cubed I'm going to take and continue to experiment with the coasting and retraction settings okay let's go back and sum up now so in summary for the right models this is fantastic a one millimeter nozzle will allow you to print faster stronger beautiful prints Bayes mode or spiralizer mode is the ideal way to go for other models you can obtain very practical useful prints they will not be as beautiful the surface finish will not be as good and I'm going to need to do a lot more work on retraction and coasting if I want to eliminate stringing okay I hope this was helpful to everyone that you learn something today if you did give me a thumbs up share this video with other people subscribe to the channel but most importantly leave comments about your own experiments let's create a community of people learning things together thanks so much have a good day [Applause]

Channel: DrVax

Views: 13,899

Rating: 4.9856372 out of 5

Keywords: 3d printing, vase mode, vase mode cura, vase mode 3d printing, vase mode speed, 1mm nozzle, 1 mm nozzle 3d printer, 1mm nozzle layer height, 1mm nozzle print, 1 mm nozzle, 1mm nozzle cr 10, prusa 1mm nozzle, 3d printing for beginners, faster 3d printing, 3d printer speed, ender 5, monoprice mp10, cura 1 mm nozzle, faster 3d printing cura, 3d printer speed up, 3d printer speed settings, 3d printer speed calibration, 3d printer speed print, monoprice mp10 printer

Id: ExoYC4cP2dk

Length: 14min 59sec (899 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 15 2019