36V DC from 12v 64 Amp Car Alternator 750W DIY

hi guys you're watching channel mr  electron and today in this video   i'm going to teach you how to convert a 12 volts  car alternator to 36 volts this one that you see   is a 12 volts car alternator now without any  transformer or any additional circuit or winding   change i'm going to convert it to 36 volts and the  best part is that it is going to produce 36 volts   at the same rpm at which it used to produce 12  volts so let's get started now guys here you   can see two car alternators one with the voltage  regulator and three phase bridge rectifier and   the other one without any voltage regulator or  rectifier now the difference between the two is   this one is going to produce a max of around  14.4 volts dc but this one can produce much more   voltage depending upon the rpm higher the rpm  more will be the output voltage so if you also   want a lot more voltage than 14 volts then you  will have to remove the bridge rectifier as well   as the voltage regulator and make sure that you do  not remove this brush case it holds the brush that   feeds electric current to the rotor inside the  alternator so in this video i'm going to work on   this one because it does not has the rectifier  or the voltage regulator so let's remove this   one so guys after you have removed the rectifier  and the voltage regulator you will be left with   six wires and uh two of which are going to be the  brush wires feeding the rotor and that will be   separate you can see that these are the slip rings  for the rotor winding of the alternator and they   are usually going to be colored as shown here red  and blue there is a possibility that you might see   only three wires instead of the four that depends  if the three-phase armature connection of the   alternator is in star or delta if you have four  wires then you will have to keep one wire which   is the neutral point disconnected it is going to  be the tapping point for all the wires because   of which it is going to be very thick so it can  be separated easily and the remaining three thin   wires when compared to the thick one are going to  be your three phase final output wires now in case   of delta connection you don't have to worry about  uh the thicker wire which is which is the neutral   point in case of the star connection because there  is no neutral point in delta so these three wires   are the three phase now comes the part of  removing this back cover of the alternator seems like i will have to use the manual  method so guys your question for today is   what was the power rating of the  motor i used in my previous video now after removing the screws you will  need this minus type of screwdriver and then try and open you finally  it is out you can see the brushes that's the lower bearing looks smooth okay so  these are the final output terminals coming out   from the armature winding and we have to work upon  these first you have to take out the insulation   from the star connected neutral point after  that you can see here that that all the wires   are coming and joining at this point  which means that this one is the neutral   tapping point for the star connected armature  winding so we will have to disconnect them all   now for those of you who would like to watch  the video in which i have removed the rectifier   from the alternator and the voltage regulator  a link will be provided in the description so   don't forget to check it out so first you have  to remove the soldering of this tapping point yeah one is out so guys the disconnection part of  all the wires has been completed   now comes the part of finding out which wire  belongs to which phase now guys i'm going to   use three different colored wires for each of the  phase and i'm going to make a pair for each phase   so this wire this wire and this wire these three  were the initial output wires of the alternator   so i'm going to connect these three wires to  these three terminals starting with this red wire now yellow yellow also done black also done   yellow down so guys now comes the part of phase separation  for which you're going to need a multimeter so   here i'm going to point it out to in this beeping  mode which is going to indicate the connectivity so first finding out the face for the red wire so  let's leave out the yellow red connected over here   you see now out of these three   one is going to be the wire at which this  multimeter is going to beep let's see this one nothing nothing yeah this is the one you see   so the starting wire for the first phase  which is red and its end point is this   this one so another red wire will be soldered at  this point and this will make one pair of phase so these three denote this wire okay  and the middle one is this one and   this piece that you see small this is  this one now we have found out that   the extreme left one which is the  smaller one is a red so denoting it by r now finding the connectivity for yellow and i  think the high probability is for the middle one yeah got it middle one is yellow   so it's y and the remaining last one is going  to be black so the face separation is complete   all we have to do is solder the respective  wires red yellow and black and that's it so so guys now comes the phase rectification part  here i'm going to use three bridge rectifiers   kb pc3510 3510 kvpc so this is a metal piece  on which i'm going to place all the rectifiers uh i have not placed the paper tape double-sided  tape over here because i'm going to place a screw   through this and then connect it to the alternator  itself which is going to hold this entire piece   in one place so let's start with the connections  of the rectifier to each other this what you see   is the plus one so the word diagonal opposite  is going to be the minus which is negative so   negative will be connected in series and directly  to the plus of the other and then again negative   diagonal opposite as negative will be connected  to the plus of the other and the final output will   appear on this positive and this negative this  way all the rectifiers are going to be in series so so so so guys now comes the part of connecting the  final output wires this terminal that you see   is the positive so red wire will be connected  over here and this one that you see since   this one is positive so it's diagonal opposite  this one is the negative so black wire will be   connected over here and these two will be the  final output from the alternator red positive black negative yeah now it's time to install the rectifier set yeah so the rectifier set has been placed  and finally comes the part of connecting   these armature wires to the rectifier so first  i'm going to start with red this is the first one   next comes yellow and finally black so let's solder the face connection this terminal  that you see this one red will be connected yeah now the other one done now comes yellow other yellow they are also done black black also done so all the wiring  is complete final output is on these two   wires and excitation is on these two  so let's start with the testing part   so guys uh this is the car alternator and i've  connected the rectifier as you have already seen   plus these two wires that you see the red and  black jumper cables these will be connected to   this 12 volts battery for the excitation  of the rotor inside the alternator and   with that being done i have to rotate this  uh rotor or the pulley of the alternator at   a high rpm after which it is going to display  the generated voltage here on the multimeter to display winding of the water heater   connecting this final red terminal to the  battery and then you will see actual voltage at present it is producing around 9 volts dc let's increase the rpm okay here we are doing around 18 volts very so guys as you saw that this car  alternator actually produced 36   volts dc which was pretty insane because a car  alternator cannot produce more than 14.4 volts   and if you want more voltage and  more output this is how you can do   it so guys i'm going to start with this 12 volts  pull let's test and see how this one performs bulb has been connected connecting the battery   you can see guys the bulb has started  glowing let's increase the speed pretty good right let's turn off the lights haha very bright super turning it off now so guys that was about  converting this alternator from 12 to 36 volts let   me know in the comment section if you understood  this project completely and you liked it   so that was all about today's video thank you  so much for watching it please hit like and if   you are new to this channel don't forget to  share and subscribe see you in the next one you

Channel: Mr Electron

Views: 51,364

Rating: 4.7574468 out of 5

Keywords: car alternator generator, car alternator problems, car alternator generator 220v, car alternator wind turbine, car alternator water wheel, car alternator generator free energy, car alternator free energy, car alternator to dc motor, 12v alternator, alternator generator, alternator testing, 12v car alternator, mr electron alternator, alternator diy, alternator, car alternator, 36v, 750w, diy, amp, 64 amp, 12v, alternator amp, alternator amp test, alternator amps, 12v dc

Id: ETN3lW-c6fY

Length: 18min 31sec (1111 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 06 2021