305 Engine Build Part #2

okay welcome back so today we're gonna get started on pistons and rods so we'll uh we'll roll out some bearing shells we'll get the rings out of the package while they already are out of the package we'll talk about them and we'll probably install the camshaft as well so let's get going [Music] today we're going to take a look at the pistons and rods and painfully talk about them like we do about everything else these are the pistons we're going to use their silver white number they're 14.82 each okay they also have a kb number of the same actually and these uh these are from uem i believe they do silverlight and kb pistons both now but what we need to do is find out what we have with the h there we obviously have something going on right so we find our handy dandy sheet that came out of the box and we just read through it and one of the things we go to is well we go to the bottom what do we have down here and each suffix is a hyper eutectic piston and it requires an increase in ring and gap of 40 on the top ring only so today we have to concentrate on the top ring the second rain in the oil ring can stay a factory uh recommended end gaps okay so for this piston this is what we got to pay attention to all right now they have an example down here and it's probably an easy one so a factory minimum recommend a gap of 16 which is on most four inch four engines like a 350 or a 360. um you would have to add 40 all right so what's 16 times 4 it's a 64 actually but they're adding six so i guess we'll just round it off so they want to have six more thousand that gap to equal 22 right so 16 plus six is 22 and that's what they're trying to do here we have a three seven six six four um but it still doesn't really matter we're at 15 we have to add we're adding six as well yeah there you go so we're going to go to 21. if you just do the math video real quick um 15 15 15 and 15 is six so 15 and 6 is 21 right all right it's part of me 15 times 4 is 60. so you want to pay attention to this stuff and make sure that you understand what's going on because this is again this is your investment and uh these small things can be a problem now if you put this dungeon together i already checked the man gaps are about 18-ish okay not too bad if they were a little bit tighter and you put it together you drove down the road at 2 500 rpm and nothing ever happened you might get away with it you can tell all your friends yeah i didn't do that and i i was fine if you uh through the engine of your boat and you went out there full throttle as soon as you hit the lake you'd uh you'd break a rain wind okay that's why it's just important to try and figure it out while you're there now i just wanted to set this up real quick i've done the other side already so here's the 21 actually sorry i like the worst filmer ever 21 there we are if you can put it in that uh the arena gap i can't actually get that one in all the way all right so it's a little tight on that one this one same thing we get the drift right so we're a little tight on this engine but not overly tight it is a common to have a v at the bottom like where you can enter with the uh with your field gauge yeah but what you want is you want a square ring so no matter what you do here take your time like if you only take three swipes of your manual ring filer just keep double checking and double checking so take a few swipes double check and you'll eventually figure out how much to remove how to make it straight and how not to go over 21. well that's my number whatever your number is okay i'm going to keep filing here there's really no point in showing everybody how to file rings this isn't really a ring filing session this is just finally the top range for a piston that we're using this engine and then they're so close they're taking very little very little to get to 21 and get them square um but if we were doing an engine that required the first rain and the second rain to be filed i would actually do a video on that but we're not there today i'm just going to touch these up and we're going to get back at it okay just follow up here real quick we have all eight piston rings done so these are the top piston rings only the molle coated ones we've got from the 21 as uh this sheet re recommended we uh raise our gap 45 40 and that came up to 21. so i just wanted to show what this looks like so now that we uh can get our fjor gauge in there it goes in there nice and snug you can just leave the gauge right there takes a little bit of force to pull it out okay and that's what we're looking for if it's too loose it'll just go right in if it's too tight it won't go in at all okay when we talk about having your piston ring square in the bore when you're doing this it's really important if you're going to use a piston be extremely accurate all the way around you can buy a piston ring squaring tool and do it that way i use my uh dial calipers for whatever reason i always do but we saw right there that 21 was nice and snug and just right so let's just move this down just a little bit we're just going to move that down a little bit check this out now you just slide right on through there like nothing you want to make sure that you're square on the bore and like i say i'm about three quarters of an inch down all the way around as soon as i push that down that gap became bigger and that's why it's extremely important to stay square when you're filing rings again this is not a rain filing video so we'll move on but what we're going to do now is we're going to install some rings on some pistons and start putting this together okay we just got finished installing a couple of piston rod assemblies we uh plasticate them both and we're going to have a quick chat here about plastic gauge there's a little bit of misconception about plastic agent why we use it or what goes on i use plastic gauge kind of as a double check for the most time just to make sure i i know where i'm at and uh it's not because i don't trust my machinist your machine shop works with numbers and when they grind this crankshaft they don't just throw it in a grinder and just grind it till it looks good there's a number there's a number and a target they're trying to hit and it's a very fine number there's a high side which means it'll be a little bigger there's a low side which means it'll be a little smaller in that range they're trying to hit okay so it's a pretty interesting ordeal and they go their way to do a good job and they polish it up for you a little bit at the end and on and on but that's what they work within is those two numbers okay it's much the same as the uh boards to the connecting rods it's the same thing so let's just use those two numbers and go right in the middle i go back in he says don't worry jay crankshaft's in the middle rods are in the middle and let's say for conversation's sake it should have tooth out bearing clearance and i thank him and he's ordered my bearings for me and we're good to go right i think right on he took care of me everything's here i'm gonna get the short block together now i don't really need to measure it because i trust my machinist and he knows what he's doing and he's a good guy and on and on but if he measures one out of the box and he writes down on my little box you've got two thou bearing clearance i'm thankful that he took the time he measured up a connecting rod and uh put it together and put a bearing in it measured it up and measured the crank and that's what i have the problem is is we have these still they're still in a package now what if say one of these were wrong okay now again this is your investment this is why you bring it up so he's done the work and i think i'm gonna go assemble it and off i go but what if we go along we see two two two two one do i all the sudden get mad at my machine shop and see all those guys ripped me off they wasted a day of my weekend he said he did all this stuff you know you swear a little bit you're angry and off you go did you ever consider it might be the other parts it's not your machine shop's fault because we get them out of our machine shop every time we have a failure we all know exactly what we're doing we sell it on youtube we know exactly what's going on but we don't because sometimes the failures are as simple as the stuff out of the box we weren't able to check so when i plasticated stuff going along it's not because i'm bored and don't feel like doing it you know measuring everything i realize that i'm doing a do-it-yourself video most people don't have the tools to do this stuff um whether it's four gauges or micrometers and albeit plastic gauge is not going to give you the size of your crankshaft diameter or the inside bore of your connecting rod it will show you if you're consistent with what you have machined in the stuff you have out of the box so if i had a problem and one of my readings was way too high or way too low i can stop right now get to the bottom of the problem is it a machine shop issue is it a parts issue before i continue and save myself from a possible failure that might cost me a bunch more money hope this wasn't too long winded hope it helps and let's get moving [Music] do [Music] [Music] okay we're gonna get the camshaft ready to install as well as the uh bottom timing gear so we've assembled the short block um the mains are torqued and the rod bolts are torqued i'm just going to assemble me install the bottom uh crankshaft gear for the timing chain and a lot of guys hammer those on everybody has their own way of doing it i'm just going to apply a little bit of heat slide it on and it can cool off on there after that i'll unbox the cam spray it off with something and blow it off with there make sure everything's clean and uh we'll apply some assembly lube to it or camshaft loop we're gonna fail we'll apply a little bit of heat to this timing here so that's what we're using you can tell by that noise that solid thumb it's all the way seated all right okay we uh applied some camshaft assembly lube to the uh the lobes and we applied from charcoal to the uh journals so we'll slide this thing in so like always just be extra careful when you're installing these we don't want to scuff a journal or anything like that sometimes you might have to turn it just so it goes in a little bit easier all right we're here got that installed let's get this timing chain on okay we're going to bring this up to tdc real quick on number one so let's just watch the uh needle here i don't really care where it says it is i just want to get to the highest possible reading then we'll install that timing chain okay you see how it kind of dwelled there and came back let's go back to that again looks like about 54. all right went the other way so anyway we just want to find the highest point and uh right there we can then install the top tier machine here [Music] okay so here we are um we have our top dot and then we have our bottom dot obviously you just bring it to the dots line up we all know this already we installed the timing chain and it's the same as the tbi 350 one that we have the issue with now somebody said hey these are heavy duty and pre-stretched and i'm like well they might be but to me it's really loose and i'm i'm not going to run it it's my but that's my opinion on the engine i'm building and yours may vary on the one you're building the other thing i didn't like about this timing chain is uh here i'll tighten it up just to show you that's still loose it doesn't change still lose but the other thing i didn't like here is this whole one here is oblong for the dell and it has as much play in it as the chain does right now if not more because the chain limits the plate we can use right but if you look at those bolts they're not moving and that's just purely on the play inside the uh hole drill for the dell so we're going to remove this chain and order another one and uh unfortunately that means i'll be ending the video here today we were gonna do the timing cover balance here in oil pan well pump and pick up but uh we're not gonna do that now i'll be out of town for a few days so by time you see this i'll be back and uh so i'll pick one up and we'll get this done and uh move on anyway if you've been following along thank thank you uh for watching and if uh you feel we went a little faster this one lacks some information there's a lot of information in the tbi 350 video if you uh want to refer back to any of that other than that we'll move forward and we'll get this done as soon as i get back

Channel: Jay's Garage

Views: 7,416

Keywords: 305, chevy, nova, ralley, th350, oil, oil filter, zinc, 300hp cam, camshaft, 2 jet, sealed power, engine tech, melling, rebuid, fresh, engine build

Id: Rk7ME4-F01o

Length: 17min 44sec (1064 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 11 2022