350 Chevy TBI 5.7 Engine Tear Down / Rebuild , Video #1

hi everyone welcome to my channel my name is jason today we're going to take a look at this engine i've bought out of a recent auction sale now it's a chevy 350 it's a tbi engine the block is coated or stamped let's sorry about this on there everyone stamped the last three numbers are 727 so we know it's an 86 and up one piece rear seal and right there if you see it trying to zoom in it says 5.7 so we know it's a 350. so that's about what we know so far about this engine i put it on the stand the other night and i i need to tear it down and get it ready we have a couple different options we can do here i kind of need a stock tbi 350. as well i wouldn't mind doing a vortec headed hydraulic roller 350 as well i have a project vehicle for that but before we get started let's take a quick inspection and see what we can see on this engine here right now so what we're seeing here right now is we have a relatively complete engine the right hand exhaust manifold is missing it came with the motor it just wasn't on but what did not come is all the front accessories so as you see it is how i got it it doesn't even have a pulley on the power steering pump which is kind of nice because it makes removal a little bit easier it had no antifreeze in it so there was no fear there but it does have oil and oddly enough it has clean oil in it so that's a good thing never bad it doesn't look like it's ever been apart but i do see a velcro valve cover gasket as well and we'll inspect this as we go along to see what we can see maybe it has been apart maybe it hasn't little things like the the little tabs and tangs for the exhaust manifolds are still in place you would have to bend these out of the way in order to get your socket on there um it has spark plug holders still which is nice people rip them off and use you know pull ties and stuff i did drain this side of the block once i was drained of antifreeze one side wasn't this is the side that wasn't and that's the fitting that comes out of it so usually when you see this it's pretty you're pretty sure this is a stock engine most three builders using that one head and they put it in there they're a little bit tougher to get out but these are still the original ones and i like working with these a little bit better we need to drain the oil still but before that let's just take a look at a couple of things we need here before we get going so these are just some of the tools that i laid out basic sockets um we're going to need a 10 at 13 and a 14 mil on the front and some of the accessories on these engines actually had metric bolts but for the rest of us your common 3 8 7 16 is half inch 9 16 5 8 we have a couple ratchets there a set of pliers and a crescent wrench a couple wrenches and of course your screwdriver and for when you're pulling your headset into a pry bar and for you that are visually impaired we also have glasses on top of that for specialty tools biggest thing we're probably going to need is our harmonic balancer puller all right so when we were inspecting this engine real quick to take a look at it one of the big things for me is it turns over the ears on the block are still there even the starter side that's always a biggie nothing really looked damaged it all looked relatively complete and all there so as far as a basic inspection goes and like i say with relatively clean oil it looks like a good candidate for a rebuild or it could even be a re-ring depending on the shape it's in but because i don't really want a low compression engine it probably won't be that um one of the things to keep in mind when you're buying an engine like this you always kind of want to do an inspection to find out what you have one thing you don't want to run into is like i say a broken block a craft block um you know you don't want to buy these and just put them in either you want to do a pretty good check i mean some of the things that happen if these engines are full of bearing materials say they've had a spun bearing or they've had problems along the way and say you have an oil cooler on your vehicle know your lines your cougar and stuff are going to get well they're going to get infected with the same material so when you do an engine swap or you do a change or if you if you put a new engine in place of an engine that had a bad bearing you need to address those oil lines you need to address that cover issue all that stuff stays in there and it's just going to go through the new engine or the replacement engine once you change it so these are just some of the things to bear in mind when you're doing this you just want to try and cover every angle and make sure that you don't find yourself in a bad situation a few hundred dollars in so if you just give me a minute here we'll get started and we'll get the same torn apart all right everyone let's get started um this is my first video i've never done anything like this before so just bear with me probably gonna ramble on a little bit but look at the same part and we'll find out what we have and figure out what the situation the best situation is to move forward we'll try and document some things along the way i'll try and answer any questions i think would come up along the way as well problems that people may account for one of the interesting things here is let's see there's no base gasket for the throttle body but there's some form of a rubbery foam between that and the air cleaner it's kind of interesting all right half inch [Applause] so for the time being we'll just set the throttle body aside an interesting note it had no throttle body gasket in it so somebody's had this off this is the outside all right let's take that off we'll take the vacuum line off for the uh power brakes sorry i just had to fix my camera there coming back for this line here current power brakes i don't really need to use a crest wrench but i'm going to have it up so this was an 11 16 just so you know keep that in mind when you're doing this stuff like i say some symmetric some of this so let's get rid of this and the brackets attached to the bracket bolts the back and cylinder head are either going to be 14 or 9 16. okay let's remove that one of the things you're going to want to do is have a container for all of your bolts and all the things you want to keep there's all kinds of different ways you can do this you can use boxes you can use plastic and just use whatever's easiest for you i'm just going to use a black hole here collect all the stuff inside of there i can deal with it when i'm going to clean it at the end so bring the oil over here real quick and it comes out as oil and not water so that's a that's a good sign as well leave that aside the other thing you always want to have is some rags around you want to keep yourself as clean as possible and your work area as clean as possible you don't want to trip over things or have any issues so we'll continue with taking awesome accessories okay these little radius are going to break off and pretty tight so these are studying a bolt on the front of these turn in here so i'm just glad to grab a wrench [Music] there we go let me grab the 14 we'll do the front power steering bump where's the thirteen well my mistake 13 now these bolts up here are metric you can use a half inch all right move this out of the way for some people it might be a good idea to keep their bolts in order and the way they tuck them out um i can usually remember what i've done i've done this several times in the past so that way i'm lucky so it's not usually a big deal but some people might not know so you can keep your accessory bolts and your intake bolts and stuff like that in particular order to help you with reassembly again let's get that up knocked over [Music] all right problem solved okay getting down a little bit more here so we can start seeing a little more these bolts are also we have a cup hole in the back we got a couple down here we'll take that bracket off all right so i know i went a little fast for you guys there but there's two at the bottom here bottom of the block there's these two one inside here one side there right here and obviously the third uh entrance of the silver head there so let's just get that out of the way remove the valve cover take a look and see what we have well it does run for a while it's a little bit crusty in there there's nothing that looks too alarming i don't see any plates well actually i do hmm this engine didn't get very rare oil changes we know that for sure okay let's get some of this part where a couple studs with nuts on them you always want to remember where your studs are they're usually there for a reason something bolting to them as well as our coil bracket here it'll be a half inch now we'll get the studs the one stud on the driver's side rear is at the very back it is assists with the throttle kick down bracket [Music] [Applause] both again these are 9 16. [Music] for the frame left hook both of these are instead another uh stud on the alternator probably on the thermostat that was in here and it probably goes to the back the alternator the air conditioning so remember that stud is there oh no stud just a bolt another bolt apparently somebody's taking over an intake bolt already stud and uh somebody just bent that so just bend it over the weight alright good problem solved okay so now we just want to lift the intake off and ordinarily if you were doing this and you were working on a vehicle or repairing a vehicle you want to be very careful you don't want to get any dirt or dust in here but we're already tearing this engine apart we're not as concerned about this right now so a couple ways of doing this i'll use a bar you can use a bracket there's a falcon point and because you really don't want to start jamming things in there getting carried away you don't need to use a hammer i see people on youtube using hammers for stuff like this it's not that hard just take your time there's a little bit of area everywhere you can just gently pry on all corners if you have to but generally these come off pretty easily so like that so i'm glad we tore it apart i could see some rust there one cylinder and apparently a paper towel so we'll deal with that get rid of these gaskets this one throws this stuff in the garbage all right let's deal with a couple small things let's deal with all these little spark plug holders get the little brackets off and then my glasses but this should be three eights also your dipstick is attached on this side as well right so try not to break it just cringe while you're doing this here we go came up no issues that's what we like to see bolts away take these off again freeze [Applause] [Applause] completer things we can take a look at the spark plugs real quick here let's see what's going on inside this engine see if one's been closed off dark a little bit [Applause] hmm they look real nice do they a little dark some deposits feel additive okay so far nothing's closed up again a good thing if you have a spark plug that's closed up i've seen that in auction vehicles where people have actually closed them not to hide or not so what you're buying is an engine or a vehicle with an engine that seems to have a slight miss when all reality it has a spun bearing so don't know why you do this they still use a crest wrench i have for about 25 years for these things and i'll probably continue to do it it's the oil pressure center take a look inside see if it's leaking it's not will we reuse it probably not one of these with oil pressure senders and temperature senders they're not that expensive and we have a new engine you probably don't want to take a chance on an old center that may or may not work right so that's obviously a decision you'll have to make along the way i typically buy a new one but that's just let's get rid of this bracket on the back 9 16 and something else this engine has the much needed ground wire back in the day when i worked a gm if you took one of these wires off the back of the engine say you were servicing it or something went wrong you're doing a major repair if you didn't hook this back up again it was usually this side on the driver's side you get what you used to call phantom wipers your wipers would work then they wouldn't and they would work again when you didn't want them to then they would and along the way we really learned how grounding stuff is very critical on fuel injected vehicles so that was kind of neat to see one of the other things we see here this engine has been apart before so that's velcro intake gaskets so we really don't know what we have here right now let's take our valve gear off and we'll uh fold that up and remove the cylinder heads the steel gel that we knew still will take to get these things on kind of funny i'll try and fast forward this in the video [Applause] now contrary to what most people will tell you you don't always need to throw these rock arms away you can always see they're indented at the bottom they always have a wear mark inside on the bottom of them some are worse than others some of the problem i find is the aftermarket stuff we buy today is really worse than this so i'm not saying that you should reuse them for a general repair or cam swap or whatever you can but trying to find out where you're getting your your items when you're buying them new making rock worms and stuff a lot of them just come from one place and they're all re-boxed by different manufacturers so you can pay five bucks one place or eight bucks another place you still get the same item so that's something you want to be careful about so i like to let people know that i recently bought a set of lifters for a small walk chevy i bought the seal power i think they were 569 piece and i bought the engine tech which were i want to say 289 a piece and i got them in the same order and they were the same left here like right down to everything so it's a little disappointing to see that the brands that we've stuck with for many years or the things that we think we know are no longer that way delphi is to stop making vectors and they were the ones that made the small block chevy lifters they used to have the uh the piece put onto the bottom there's a hardened piece put on the bottom of the lifter so you always had a ring around the lifter then what that gives a two piece lifter and uh that's gonna be so now we're all dealing with one piece one body left here so it's gonna be a bit of a problem none of these ones want to come out by the way so i'm gonna show you but it's not working out let's take this out an easier impact for this so so so [Applause] so you want to watch the corners while you're doing these the corners will build up with a whole bunch of gunk and when you go to put your socket on the bolt it won't fit really well so just to show you when you're doing the corner if you just bring your screwdriver around the corner just so you can get the sock on the bolt here's one here's just the amount of stuff that came off of there there's a lot of dirt in there so sometimes you don't get on there right right away or you might you won't strip the bolt because you'll flip off it right away but again keep that in mind when you're doing this you want to be going back and trying to dig that out after so the center bolt i usually just screw in a couple threads so like i mentioned i screwed the center bolt in a couple threads part of the reason why is some people will pry on the cylinder head and it'll uh they'll finally come off in this case we have oil underneath us and you know you should take the pad out from the way by and create a huge mess the other reason not they ever come off that easy but if they did you didn't have a pin like i don't and you're interested in that could be a bit of a problem too so you just want to watch that stuff prying the head off once you have it moving take the bolt out by finger you can carry on removing your cylinder head this is terrible again just out of the corner of that bolt just terrible lots of stuff in this engine very crusty in here for doesn't look like it's had a very good uh service life all right let's get these open so these are all 5 8 by the way again we left the center bolt in there with a couple threads still so we just want to be safe we don't want to have anything come crashing down on us pretty easy so i watched a lot of people hammering or prying i just go in the back bar a little ridge here that's it it's loose do the other side here real quick that's here a lot of people are jamming stuff inside before it's like it's easy when you're on an engine stand if you're in a vehicle it's a little bit more difficult but there's always things you can do you have a small area under here you can put a bolt here and use this just be careful don't cause yourself any grief it's not that big of a deal but yeah the whole jamming bars inside here and stuff you don't want to hurt anything either rink you still have to use this stuff well that's uh there's a lot of junk in this motor we'll show you that here in a second what just happened here let's get both of these off all right well we have a dish piston engine nothing too spectacular let's take a look at some of the parts we've just seen here up to this point so we've disassembled the whole engine for the most part top end wise and uh let's take a look and see what we have here so 194 valve head should be a 193 we'll check the casting numbers and then we have this cylinder head so it had a bunch of moisture again inside of it so that's going to be a bit of a problem and we're going to have to capitalize on our machine shop to fix that up for us a bunch of dirt that came out of it yada yada so we'll continue on with the disassembly here's what we have some dirty cylinders dish pistons surprisingly very little ridge surprisingly good shape all right let's continue on so we're back i'm just sweeping up a little bit of the mess here for removing the cylinder heads i like to keep my mercury as clean as possible that's just me just a habit i've developed over the years it's not uh it's not really required on disassembly but it's just nice to keep your area clean it is my main work area overall so i'll just sweep this again all right let's get that water pump off get the harmonic balancer off holy 9 16 four of them these bolts can sometimes be quite tight remove the extension off your tool we'll give it a little more power to get the job done oops that bottom bolt will be 11 16. i don't need that thing to see sorry about that all right all right let's get the thermometer off start by putting this tool together you want to throw the puller on a little ways depending on what you're going to use at the end of the crank i might just use this there's a lot of different options this is just the one i used the whole idea of using this three bolt holder just get all your stuff in you fill me that's all and then we'll uh we'll buzz it out after one of the things is you want to use the style puller for any um again i was on youtube and uh i've seen guys use three jaw pullers before and uh it doesn't work real well they'll usually pull they're separated by what they last under here some rubber and it dampens everything or that's the whole idea of it so you have a smooth engine and that's what they call a harmonic balancer and actually has a purpose and a job so you don't want to damage it nor do you want to pull pull against the uh rubber part or the outside part between that and the rubber part so we'll just take that up there we have actually we don't have it so it's again there we go so it's even make sure that's even make sure you have sufficient threads in there and you'll be just fine three-quarter you betcha so we're slowly just going to be going forward so we're going to be screwing this into the crankshaft we're not going into the crankshaft because it's blocked by the fitting there but as we screw in the balancer should come off there we go problem solved balancers off a lot of people struggle with this you can rent the tool from your local prior stores i believe in any area you're in the most part and they're not that hard just take your time make sure the till even on there don't panic doing it with a wrench is a little tougher if you can't hold it it will be a little tough because you noticed we were having an issue here with uh with the engine turning over slightly so i'd like to put all the stuff away now we can take a look and see what's behind the timing guard maybe somebody's put a cam in here maybe not so let's do that again got a rag on at all times stays to stay clean 7 16. dirty um one of the problems to pull the cover off we're gonna have to remove it a little bit so there's always trying to pry the cover off with the oil pan on and get it off but you're just gonna end up bending a bunch of stuff there's no real point so let's continue with the disassembly here let's get rid of these motor mounts actually so i turned the heater on this place earlier it must be about 38 degrees in here better than that it's a pretty nice day overall we're in sunny saskatchewan canada a bunch of snow on the ground i think it's minus six today all right so moving on we're gonna do these oil pan bolts right away there's two different sizes we're going to need a half inch or 13 mil for the back in the front there are the back ones here on the steps [Applause] little shoulder on the hole there we go same as the front the front will be now most people roll their engine over to do this which is probably a smart idea if you don't be bending over doing it however the edge has been sitting for so long now like this that there should be literally no oil on the backs of the pistons are inside that all the pistons so when we drop the pan essentially it should almost be semi-drained right the rest of the residual be in the pan so then we can roll it over and we can knock the pistons out and remove the camshaft and uh basically get it down to a bare block so we'll continue that in a couple minutes here and i'll be right back hey everyone we're back so my heater is going in the background so i thought i'd take this time to do a quick recap so what we have is we're tearing apart this 350 so there's one behind the camera here's our valve covers our bracket or intake and our water pump so while we were gone i got rid of the oil drain plug i swept up again the other cylinder head is still in the same spot and this is what we've done so far here's our parts here's the cylinder head that had a bunch of frozen in it we said these are 193's they are 193's which is pretty much standard on every tbi engine now something that was odd about this engine is i bought it because i wanted a hydraulic roller block but as you can see it's not even uh not even a rover block it's just a standard block you would have the raised three bosses here and the spider and the machine lifter um bad areas so it's not that so it will just be a regular tbi or just a regular build but it is in surprisingly decent shape so far from what i can see so i'm going to keep going into it see what i can see there's some scratches in this cylinder but we'll take a look see what all we have um in case anybody's wondering what all i'm using just milwaukee power tools it's the same stuff guys that we had when we started the video nothing's really any different we have the top-end tour part um everything's pretty clean we're pretty organized we have things going so we'll continue on here i'll just mount this back where it belongs and uh we'll start over thanks hey we're just back here real quick just want to show everybody a couple more things here this block actually says 350 on the passenger side behind the non-drilled fuel pump area and the other thing i want to point out is everybody always forgets and thinks they're missing a bolt the oil pan stud is directly under the bottom motor mount bolt hole that stud is there so you can install your cooling line holder and then there'd obviously be another nut so if you're wondering why you're missing a bolt and while you have an extra stud that is exactly where you want that to be so let's just take out this last bolt i've taken these bolts out there like i said here over here the ends are half inch or 13 mil the insides they were three-eighths the nut for the stud is seven sixteenths the step itself will be three-eighths and one more okay along with this one comes out be careful don't draw anything let's drop this down so we'll put this here a little bit of goo in the bottom there let's put our parts away so now we can start pulling the shark block apart i want to know if there's a two or four bolt mean i can see it's a two pole mean and uh yeah we'll get moving all right guys we're back we're going to finish tearing apart the short block of this 350 chevy let's take a quick look here we can see it's a two bolt main just two bolts on each mean um we're gonna take off the oil pump so 5 8 bolt here keep that bolt make sure you keep it for the oil pump for the next one you're putting back on we'll remove the rear seal so we have a we have a stud here we have a bolt here and we have two more bolts below we probably can't see it's probably the end of the stand it's a blackness there something else i can see we don't have any numbers on the any of the rods so if you're planning on reusing this engine like if you're going to rearrange it or something you'd want to make sure you number it correctly so this would be number two passenger side two four six eight driver's side one three five seven so we'd have to put a two here and a two here we would use a stamp to do that so we'll get our stamps out and we'll start numbering and just dismantling the rest of the engine from this point all right all right let's get to work [Music] keep your tools clean you have the opportunity keep this bolt aside you'll want to reuse that in the same location it came from oil pump off you'll see it's attached by a plastic cover this shaft is separate and we'll go through this later when we do the assembly of the engine we're actually going to be assembling an engine right after we're done taking this one apart so i have a brand new fully machined tbi 350 here that needs assembly so we'll go through the assembly after that but generally that's what holds these together is the plastic cover so you'll see that they fit in here it's just a slot it fits into and then the collar holds the two into place but again we'll get into that later right let's remove that timing cover real quick see what we got back there a really loose world uh factory single roller timing chain and these engines use a one-piece oil fan gasket so remove that get rid of that half inch bolts for the cam here simply locate the three bolts in the dell just get rid of the timing chain we won't be reusing that and i'm going to put this back on because i actually use the cam here to remove the camshafts they they sell a handle you can bolt up so you can actually grip on two and pull out some guys just use three long bolts i just use the canon here i find that to be the easiest way for me again you'll find the way for you the more you do this stuff all right this bag stud 7 16. we'll get this off here some of these bolts i'll keep aside because i'll clean them separately with separate items i wish i would have done this before pick up the engine on the stand sorry about that our heater's coming out in the background shouldn't be on too long i just had the door open for a few minutes it's pretty warm in here it's a small grass it's only about 540 square feet and the ceiling is quite low it's only about just under eight feet tall so i have a really good heater that gets warm really quickly the bolts on the passenger side on the on the this is the driver's side you know which reverse the camera has a stud the bolt for this the lower bolt closes the oil pan for this one piece seal is long on the right side on that one we'll take a look at the other two here short one and then the final one the upper driver's side if we have the engine flipped over is also short they're both short so it's just the one long one so if you get your bolts all mixed up if that makes sense it helps you out that's great you don't have to use this big but pry bars just slide out there we have it your one piece for your seal for your late model leader model should be 350. all right leave that later okay let's get these pistols so maybe we should just number these right now got some glasses here so make sure you keep these in order like i say passenger side bank we flip it over 2468 so we'll do number two there we go the best thing i can recommend as well when you work on this step is a couple of the proper tools they're nice to have something as simple as just having this piece for this turn the engine over with a lot of guys will use a like a crescent wrench which is fine maybe avoid using pipe wrenches because it really nicks up the front of the crankshaft and it'll make a little bit harder when you're changing the timing gears it makes a little bit hard to come off while the hurts don't go back on so maybe just watch that all right let's do number four next i got it to a point where it's easy for me to see it you want to see what that looks like real quick we'll just take a quick peek actually let me change this around i shall still okay sorry which came back just had to fix my camera so there we go there's the numbers there so we had no numbers before that was number four we can look we number number two i'm just gonna number the rest of these and then we'll continue on after that all right we're back here again so we've numbered all of our rods we can see that we all they're all numbered now so our rods are all numbered we know where they're going to be or where they came from where they're going as well when you look at the main cap now they're not always numbered so you want to make sure when you're doing your engine mains are especially important you can get the uh front four mixed up here so this one's number one you can see the number one sorry i'll let it focus and an arrow and that arrow points toward the front you always want the arrow going to the front and again number two arrow to the front number three arrow to the front number four so we know we have one two three four on our main caps number five is pretty obvious it's the only one that's different so always make sure that your main caps are numbered before you take them off now you can use a number punch like i did um you can engrave it some people will actually use a punch and they'll put a dot here and two dots on that one and three dots on that one there's all kinds of different ways you can do it but just make sure you do it and it's numbered that way you don't have any problems later and uh you can continue on with your assembly so we'll continue to disassemble this and uh we'll get this apart and we'll get ready for the new engine that's going to be going on the stand and being assembled all right let's get this apart put our number stamps back so you can start wherever you want we know we have a number so i'll just start right here we'll do five and six three to nine sixteenths the rod bolt nuts put them on by a couple more threads if they come off just a case you have to use a hammer to tap them all right so it'd be nice if you just push my finger and do it just like that so sometimes if you have an aftermarket like an arp rod hole that probably isn't going to happen they're gonna locate a lot tougher especially out you know if you have a good rod resizer and a good raw bolt it will locate and it will be hard to move sometimes so keep that in mind so we'll pull that out we see the bearings actually can't see that maybe i will move this around a little bit all right a better angle there so we just removed number six and we have a bearing stuck so let's get that bearing off the crankshaft there we go so this is the bearing off the they'll be off the cow this bearing is not good it's got a lot of material through it has some dirt it has some burning on it as well oops the crank is very very scratched this is just on the verge of spinning the bearing actually if it hadn't spun i'd be surprised we can see it still has the tab here i don't know if you see that the tab right right here but it's uh i can barely see it actually this is in tough shape smolder when it went very much further anything else from this bearing that we can see not really so again very poor shape so let's get this part the bearing doesn't even fit in the rod anymore so it's uh there's no crush left when you tear these out like i say make sure you're on the top you want to be able to push the piston and the rod away from the crankshaft you don't want to damage anything if you don't have to it doesn't matter if it's damaged but like i say if you're doing a fresh or a re-ring it could matter right now [Music] that might not be the best way to do things so if you had a ridge of your engine do what we just did there it could you could find yourself tapping on the piston pretty hard and marking it up that might bother some people it might not but there's really no point doing that so do your best not to do that this is a factory gm bearing so these are the factory bearings this thing's in tough shape from the bottom sorry i just noticed that my uh camera is a little high so just show this i'll adjust the camera here in a second put your stuff back together in the same order a little bit easier keep tabs on everything let's take off number five wow i think i'll show you guys how bad this is this crank isn't gonna take a polish it's gonna need a regrind so i hope you guys can see that well it's in pretty tough shape but that's why we do this that's why we check on this stuff so we can correct it let's get that over there so again top one of the things about using a skinny bar like this is you can be on the other side of the rock now when we push this down the rod is going to fall against the sleeve and some guys will beat them down and the end of the rod bolt will catch on the end of the sleeve but that generally won't do any damage but again i just like to hold the rod in place and push everything up straight out just like that no issues all right let's find the next one with you you're 7-8 i suspect the rest of the engine is gonna look close to the seam again straight pull push bearing shell fell out very tight on the rod one of the reasons we just seen that intake gasket replaced is there could have been up could be making any freeze into the engine at some point in flight when you get antifreeze in there it's not real uh really a good thing one of the times you can see rods tighten up like we're seeing here that's the way bearing should look after a few years albeit not perfect stays in the rod cap just captured a little bit of particles in there and embedded them in there but generally not too bad for negligence well 35 the best of our knowledge [Music] is remove a bearing from the cap sometimes it's just as easy as i could say i don't have this camera in a great spot here i just push over to the side and take them off you can push them opposite of the tab they're not hard to get out you'll figure it out all right two more left and we'll take up the crankshaft then we'll remove the time [Music] samurai sword on my back maybe you should relax maybe you should read labs just kidding stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop [Music] stop stop stop so [Music] foreign oh stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop [Music] stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop stop six times [Music] there we go again you don't have to fry them you don't have to use a hammer you don't have to give them a good whack they are in there with a bit of an interference fit that's how they locate but just give a gentle tap on the upswing that's all the back one might be a little different it can be a little tighter just the thrust bearing so each side of this will hold so the crankshaft has movement and it's limited here and here and here here and we'll discuss that when we're assembling the next engine there's acceptable clearance for that the minimum clearance and in the performance application it could be a little bit different as well all right let's let this crank shaft over here sometimes the bearings will come sometimes they won't get away from delicious like i said you can push them out the tab is on my side you can grab them by the side let's pull them up either way the back one again people get frustrated not a big deal that's it just a little pressure tuck oh it comes that one uh it's in a little bit tighter than the other ones i guess all we really need to do now to remove the camshaft the lifters didn't want to come out of here let's push those so we'll knock them out from the top once the cam's removed uh your emergency sewer and water repair specialist leaving your yard looking as good as new fixed excavating 5 to 2 bics i like big while you're doing this either again if this was a freshman and a rearing and you didn't want to redo this step we wouldn't we won't be very careful we don't want to put a bunch of dents or scratches into and save them to 50 off your purchase save on incredible living room dining room and bedroom furniture lighting pictures to dishware to bedding right down to the art that ties it all together oh yeah so taking a look at this let's take a look and see what you can see [Music] gift card too ask santa purchase your gift cards today and get them most of the time when you have a hotel and spawn now when you're watching the camshafts there's always numbers on the back typically even stock ones have numbers this one those no numbers it could be on the front cost of living financial difficulty can happen to anyone i'm jasmine brown licensed insolvency trustee at bdo if you find your day is taking over your life it's time to get some relief the hardest part can be making we are going to be [Music] [Music] let me show you a couple more things here real quick you can find all our great deal before we go we'll just take a quick look inside here sorry about the angle you guys i'm trying to do the best i can see as you can see even after i hit him with a screwdriver all the lifters decide they want to stay in there so we'll just knock those out from the top see them in here is now available this is pretty dirty and grimy inside and they all stayed in here's the crankshaft here so trying to get an angle so you can see how scratched up it really is it's in pretty tough shape so i hope this helps some people who were going to disassemble their engine or take on a project during this time in kovid um if there's anything else you guys would like to see let me know we have a like i say we have a brand new 350 build coming up we have a mopar 360 depression i have uh various things on the go here i have a 5'3 for my sonoma that's taking up too much room in my graduating how it really needs to go so the frame's outside the engine's in a bag over there everything's been test fitted it'll be going together but again anything positive or negative leave me some feedback if you would in the comments and i'd really appreciate it and again we're going to be starting a new build so follow along thanks have a good day bye

Channel: Jay's Garage

Views: 187,304

Rating: 4.8493724 out of 5

Keywords: 350, sbc, 305, tbi, chev, chevy, chevrolet, gm, 5.7

Id: 2-Vbkew7KK8

Length: 80min 47sec (4847 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 07 2020