3 TIPS FOR POLISHING BLACK SWIRLED PAINT YOU MUST KNOW! FORD GT

what's up guys i wanted to hop in here real quick before the episode started and remind you at this point in the video we've already washed and dried the car properly back in episode one now for episode two we're chatting with kevin brown and talking about his three-step method for what he does what he thinks about when he encounters black finicky paint now most of us we use our favorite pad our favorite polish our favorite machine we do the car looks great we're happy but what happens when we do that and it doesn't work out we feel like it's hard paint it's soft paint there's too much residue we can't finish it out what do we do we turn to kevin and kevin seems to figure it out my purpose with this video is to kind of explore that and say like what is it that you do like explain this whole process and i really think um kind of understanding this nugget of information from him is so powerful as we go forward so with all that being said i hope you enjoy episode number two [Music] all right kevin for detailers around the world polishing out black paint is a complete nightmare as we know you think about it differently and i love chatting with you about this because there's a process that you go through can you explain that well it's not more difficult it's just more noticeable what you're doing what your input is and your output is more noticeable right so i try to keep it simple by breaking things down into three separate categories the first being we have to make sure we're contamination free and that includes your environment your pads uh the paint of course right clade and and wiped down the second thing is we focus on the defects we're not going to worry about haziness or doing too vast of an area focus on removing the defects eliminate the defects and then finally we refine the finish to give it that final pop and clarity we're looking we're all looking for okay when working on any paint especially black finicky paint you must have a contaminant-free surface now i know most of you watching this are saying yeah of course it's got to be clean that's why we just washed it but what you may not realize is that even five or six minutes of just being outside after the wash as we pulled it indoors dust and tiny bird droppings actually accumulated within seconds of completing the wash so be aware that even though you may have just washed the car the surface may not be 100 contaminant free when the time comes for your buffing and polishing it's a subtlety you can't overlook the quickest way to remove dust is to use clean compressed air to blow it away but be careful not to blow the dust on other parts of the car and chase your tail in circles most people however choose to wipe the light dust with a spray detailer although this too is quick and easy it tends to be the source of most issues for many detailers without them realizing the problem some spray wax and spray sealants commonly called spray detailers contain polymers and various protectants that create a barrier layer on top of the clear coat which blocks or interferes with the compound and pad touching the clear coat when buffing so be conscious to avoid unintentionally adding contamination yourself when trying to clean the dust off prior to buffing lastly if your paint feels rough to the touch but it's clean then you may have something called embedded contaminants that differ from the surface contaminants such as the dust and the fresh bird poo we discussed earlier embedded contaminants will not be removed by washing or wiping with spray detailers and they feel like little bumps on your paint these bumps may interfere with the buffing pad once again to remove them without introducing more contaminants use a clay bar and clay lubricant in quick back and forth motions with little to no downward pressure once it feels smooth after one or two passes move to the next area i did ask kevin about using isopropyl alcohol mixtures or heavy wax removers to eliminate the film or strip the paint but he warned about this practice for two reasons number one it tends to dry out the paint or clear coat with excessive use much the same as having dry skin on your hands and second one product is usually not enough you need different types of solvents to get all the different contaminants off which is extremely harsh on your delicate and thin clear coats and can actually change the structure of the paint causing excessive heat buildup when compounding so the moral of the story is this sometimes it's just safer to slowly grind away the contaminants with a polisher than to hit it with a chemical bazooka ultimately step one is really about preparing the paint properly before polishing by choosing a coating or polymer free spray detailer and removing embedded contaminants but what if you think you did everything you could to prep the paint properly but it's still acting weird or unusual what do you do now when the normal techniques don't work then we have to change what we're doing and one of the best ways to do that is to increase the quantity of buffing liquid in the case where you have a invisible contamination right a silicone a polymer or a wax that you don't know is on there yeah you you wiped it down you thought you got it removed you can't tell but when you start buffing it's not working like it used to very likely that's the problem so when you increase the quantity of buffing liquid it helps to keep that emulsified so that the pad can continue to move the product around the abrasive can grind away the paint as a point of reference a typical amount of buffing liquid used on the pad after it's primed is roughly three pea-sized drops however in this scenario our normal routine is not working so kevin increases the amount to roughly nine to ten pea-sized drops on a primed pad far more liquid than normal this is in preparation for our next step referred to as a mow down compounding cycle so for step two which is defect removal we first need to mow down the area i want to move the machine nice and slow so that we get work done and with that quantity of liquid it helps keep the temperature down to a degree keeps things flowing along now as you can tell it's very difficult to see what's occurring so during a mow down it's very challenging to see because you actually have more liquid and you can't you can't see the paint at this point right so we're going to do a couple of passes and we're going to stop and just as you did that you saw how easy that was to remove right if this was one of those problematic or finicky paints you would have done that and that liquid would have stayed in place and that would have been because we had encompassed the quantity of buffing liquid with paint residue and it just caused it to really stick sometimes after compounding when you try to wipe the compounding residue off the paint it'll become sticky or grippy when wiping with your towel this is a great indication that you may have increased residue or old single stage paint for example a quick trick when you find yourself in this spot is to simply add a squirt or two of water to help loosen the impacted old dead paint and buffing liquid to then scoop it up with a microfiber towel but because kevin used more liquid here in the mow down cycle the paint residue and liquid did not run out of moisture and grit to the paint so we avoided that issue altogether okay after the mow down technique we move into the final cut what's the difference between mowing down the paint and the spinal cut well once you've got the mow down handled it has eliminated seven to eighty percent of all the defects anyway so your work's actually easier and then with the 20 to 30 percent that's left how do you like how do you go after how do you study we use a more traditional approach and in this case uh if you have compressed air clean the pad you're using and eliminate all that extra buffing liquid and if you don't have compressed air it's it's very simple just to change the pad and again in the case of these pads the microfiber best to apply some of the buffing liquid and we have to season or prime the pad and that just simply means spread it around make sure it's moist make sure that it's distributed evenly if this is a string you know if this is a fiber i want to make sure it's encompassed with buffing liquid which has abrasive in it so if it drags across that surface there's a very good chance it's going to cut away paint and when you have this quantity of strings it happens rapidly right and most people i you know you see traditionally you know you put one there one dot three dots and then they just put it down and at that point if your string isn't coated all in your product what happens well not only that but microfiber since it is so good at grabbing and holding that dot will not spread such as it might on a slippery or foam so if the dot was over here and there's nothing and over here is dry what happens to the paint well you're gonna that's gonna get work done for a little while but since it's not able to move around and slide around that's going to be encompassed with the paint we're grinding away the paint residue right so priming the pad is obviously it helps things move around it just increases the efficiency of cut does all kinds of great things for this step all right so the difference the main difference between the mow down and final cut is you're kind of reducing the amount of liquid you're backing down the quantity of buffing liquid now we can see the defect we can go after that particular one and that's one of the reasons we back it down because i want to be able to target the defect removal see what i'm doing and as it's being eliminated or it's completely right that's actually a really good point because when we're doing the mow down there's there's so much liquid on there it's fuzzy it's blurry it's you know you can't you can't see you can't see the paint so now you're when you're backing it down you can really just go after those individually and we have to always be aware every pass every rotation we are removing paint permanently it's important to recognize there are two different processes within step number two first is the mow down with way more liquid second is the final cut which targets the remaining defects with way less liquid and lots of blowing out or switching to fresh pads that have no residue this combination of techniques is also known as backing down the paint or taking half steps to control the residue properly in this final cutting method of step number two you're just sort of snipering the really bad defects that didn't come out earlier this extra step is unbelievably noticeable after the final polishing in step number three so if you take your time now then your final finish will be perfect after the final cut the defects are gone and the paint looks amazing but how do we get to that last ten percent because i see a little bit of haze here we're going to make some big changes to our our polishing setup our pads and our liquid we're switching to a finishing polish and a finishing pad okay it's going to dramatically draw back the ability to cut paint or the aggressiveness of the cut which would induce more haze if you did right we're just trying to continually back things down we're going to minimize the number of passes and minimize the quantity of buffing liquid we're using with your favorite finishing pad lightly prime with three or four small dots and rub them into the pores of the phone your focus now should be on the number of passes and the amount of liquid used in this case using less is way more helpful likewise your speed is a variable that can't be determined via a video or an email the amount of pressure the type of pad and the amount of residue will all affect the rotation of the pad however a good rule of thumb is to have one to two pad rotations per second so you'll need to adjust your speed and pressure based on your paint's unique variables i think that's shocking to a lot of people that it's that yeah they did spend 20 minutes right and there's a chance that we didn't get all of the cut or refining that we needed we can do another pass i kind of think of it like archaeology when there's like a bone or something in there and they just but just barely going at it with a little brush you've done vehicles or you you chase your tail right constantly it's like wow yeah you have to avoid contaminating the pad with the paint residue you've got to control that residue and if you do too many passes especially with that minuscule quantity of liquid it doesn't have the ability to coat that pad and help it resist things attaching to it right so that's why i say look for oiliness if you see oiliness even if you don't see an abundance of white liquid you don't want to see that right but you do want to see that oiliness that indicates there is still some moisture on the pad and that oiliness is help protect that pad from things attaching and locking onto it because when that happens you've got debris stuck now you're scouring again now we wipe it off and do what just check inspect it we're going to use an inspection light and see what that did next we wipe with a clean microfiber towel and inspect the paint again this is a slow and steady process the paint looks much better now but it still needs more work depending on the pad product and paint variables this can be a simple one pass process or more it's really different on all paints so there's no way to give you a rule of thumb but what you should see is a light layer of oil or a sheen as you wipe the panel clean this can be a healthy indicator that we haven't overloaded the pad with extra residue which would cause us to re-scour the paint and then start over again so it's easy to chase your tail if these methodologies are not recognized and practiced on these finicky paints and once in a while you'll get everything looking flawless but there might be one little pigtail mark or one little section and then we can focus on that but for the most part when you've done your refining properly or your defect removal and refining that it's you're usually pretty simple what are you going to say at the end of this video to somebody when they're panicking about going outside like how do you motivate them to do this well it's it's it's not a black magic that it's a it's a science if you do the things that we talked about if you use the tips and tricks to help you along the way and you stick to that plan do your mow down clean your pad off and clean the surface often back things down back down the quantities of liquid back down the number of passes as you get finer and finer or more refined right and make sure the paint doesn't have any contamination on it you know what i mean oh that's the number one thing you have to start there if you don't make sure if you don't ensure that you are contamination free you're never going to get to the last step of perfection i think from my perspective after all this talking and learning from you one of the things is the biggest or the broadest concept is if something you're doing isn't working that you know that thing that you normally go to all the time it hasn't worked you kind of have to stop breathe and reassess what you're doing and then say hey why don't we go down a different path and this path a lot of people i don't know which path to go down and you're sort of mapping out one two three uh you know and try that and you'll may have a different result with that that's right and even in the midst of uh being a professional myself there will be times where everything's working properly and then something changes it's like wow i've been doing everything the way i'm supposed to and i'm not seeing the results i was getting there or there or there sometimes the pad even though it's being blown out or cleaned it's now got a micro hazing of paint residue on it that's not easily blown away yeah got to stop change the pad and inevitably i'd do that like oh boom there we go so look for those little tell-tale signs that something's changed because something has changed it's not you there's there's a tendency to say oh this is this is a nightmare paint this is so difficult this is the softest paint and you know what's interesting is that a lot of the times when people are working on the softest paint it turn it turns out they're they're not yeah or vice versa this is the hardest paint i've ever worked on it's not it's actually soft it's just loaded that pad so quickly and encompass the abrasive so rapidly it can't come out yeah yeah so stick to the plans and the tips and tricks we've outlined today i think you're going to have a phenomenal experience and a great result after a few hours of polishing the paint with these rules in mind the gt was looking amazing now it was time to add some glow to the finish for that barry walked into the garage and gave derrick his maguire's ultimate paste wax which for whatever reason made me really happy it was pretty cool to see a guy's name on his product used on his car coming out of his house sort of a surreal moment in the filming process for me after our fresh polishing and waxing barry and i went for a ride along the coast and he showed me where he grew up and how the car culture and passion grew the mcguire's brand from a commercially focused company originally to now both a professional and enthusiast product line which he later built and explains in detail in our interview in episode 3 so don't miss it for more helpful how-to car care videos visit ammonyc.com as always thanks for watching and we'll see you next time [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: AMMO NYC

Views: 1,939,595

Keywords: Scratch removal, Top Detailing Tips, Larry Kosilla Detailing, AMMO Detailing Products, AMMO Products, AMMO Detailing, How to remove a scratch, AMMOnyc, AMMO Car Care Products, Kevin Brown Detailing, How to buff black paint, How to polish black swirled paint, How to detail your paint, How to remove scratches in paint, Learn to detail your paint, How to use a paint polisher, Larry Kosilla AMMO Detailing, auto detailing, car wash, how to, best car polish, car care, new ford gt

Id: MQ_0M81_grU

Length: 16min 37sec (997 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 14 2018