$25 Facebook Marketplace Painted Furniture Makeover with Glazing and Staining

hello everyone I've got another project for y'all I've been doing a lot of custom orders lately so I've been kind of ready to do my own project so one morning I found this listing on Facebook marketplace $25 for a nightstand isn't too bad so I figured it'd be great to work on within about 10 minutes I had this piece picked up and back home it was a lot bigger than I thought it was going to be the details are pretty impressive you can see here that it was made in Indonesia and it was manufactured in 2003 the first thing I did was take off all the hardware to get it ready to be prepped for paint after I removed the hardware I focused on stripping and staining the top for stripping I like to use clean strips quick strip you want to make sure you get the 15-minute formula and not the 30 minute formula this one works much faster when I'm applying a stripper I like to use a very liberal amount if you don't get enough stripper on the wood then there's a good chance it'll dry out before you have a chance to scrape it off I'll let the strippers sit for about 15 minutes and then I'll come and take it off with a plastic scraper once I started to scrape the moldings around the edges I noticed that it had a different type of coating on it I assumed that this meant that the molding on the sides was going to be particle board or pressed cardboard but I figured I'd keep on going and just see what I could do with it now that most of the stripper is scraped off of the wood I'm going to use mineral spirits and still wool to get the rest of the stripper residue off of my wood I tend to use these odorless mineral spirits that seems to work just as good as regular mineral spirits for the steel wool I'm going to be using a coarse grade steel wool whenever I'm cleaning off the stripper residue I'm not scrubbing really hard I don't want to scratch the wood up I'm just giving some light pressure and letting the steel wool do all the work once I've scrubbed all of the stripper residue off of my wood I'll use a clean rag to clean up the last of the mineral spirits and shipper gunk after this the wood is still going to be damped so I'll usually leave it alone for about 4 hours let it dry out before I sand it if you stand it while it's still wet it's just going to shred up your wood here's the edge you can see that it is some sort of manufactured cardboard I wasn't really sure if it would be stainable but I figured maybe I could just paint over it stain the immediate top and maybe do some gold around the edge to cover it all up but for now really wasn't gonna worry about it and just keep going after waiting about four hours for the top to dry out I got some 220 grit sandpaper and my sander and took off the very last layer of the shipper residue to expose the raw wood if you were to skip this step whenever you apply stain it isn't going to take and the finish is going to look uneven and splotchy [Music] now that everything is sanded I'm ready to start staining before I applied the actual wood stain I use this pre stain to help get a even finish this isn't always necessary but it can be a good idea to use it to make sure you don't run into any problems a little bit later the stuff is super easy and super quick to use you just apply a liberal amount to your wood let it sit for about 15 minutes come back and wipe off any of the pre stain that's still wet and then you're ready to stain right after usually whenever I'm standing atop a much darker finish I like to use this Minwax dark walnut wood stain again this is fairly easy to use I just brush on a liberal amount to make sure it doesn't dry up into 15 minutes I'm gonna leave it on let it sit for that 15 minutes and then come back and wipe it off until all of the excess is gone I was pretty surprised to see that the edges still looked like wood the top really wasn't as dark as I wanted so I decided to try a darker stain to darken things up I used men waxes true black I felt like this wood wasn't really taking the stain that well so I wanted to make it as dark as possible it looked like it was going to be super dark with his darker sustain was but after I wiped it off it was exactly what I was wanting the edges are a little darker than I had originally wanted but I'm happy they still kind of look like wood so again I just kept rolling with it I'm pretty happy with the way that the top turned out the next thing I want to do is tape off the top so that I can focus on the bottom and not ruin the top gonna apply a thin layer of lacquer before I apply the tape to it just to protect the finish so the lacquer I'm gonna be using men waxes aerosol lacquer I'm using the semi-gloss the sheen doesn't really matter I'm just going to do two light coats of lacquer let it dry and that'll make a good surface for the tape to adhere to without ruining the wood surface I forgot to film me taping the top off but that's boring anyways now that the top is taped off I'm gonna clean the bottom I normally use trisodium phosphate or tsp to clean furniture before I paint it stores were out of the regular TSP so I've been using this substitute it's been working just fine to clean the furniture I just use a damp rag dipped in TSP if you don't clean your furniture the dirt and grime can interfere with your paint finish I also prefer to clean before I sand just because I don't want my sandpaper to be doing all the cleaning and going through a lot more sandpaper after I've got everything wiped down it's time to sand when I'm sanding I'm not trying to sand all the way down to the raw wood I'm just trying to scuff up the surface so that the paint has a good bonding surface to adhere to I'm using 220 grit sandpaper for this sometimes I'll use 120 grit depending on the project I tend to use this big sander on the larger areas and I'll use a smaller detail sander to get into the smaller areas again I'm not trying to get down to the bare wood but obviously it happens when you're using a power sander you want to make sure that you don't over sand too much so you don't have to worry about bleeds I'll discuss that a little bit later on the video now that the body is sanded I'm just going to repeat the same process on the drawers clean them down with TSB and then give them a good scuff sanding with the detail sander with 220 grit sandpaper [Music] after I've got everything sanded I use a brush to dust everything off and then come back with a damp rag to clean the last of the dust off before I get ready to paint [Music] [Music] [Music] as I mentioned before whenever you're sanding you want to make sure that you avoid exposing the raw wood as much as possible so that you can avoid bleeds bleeds or stains that show up in the paint after you've applied it to a wood surface it's basically the oils in the wood or the wood stain interacting with the water-based paint whenever it dries up normally the areas that you've over sanded will have stains show up in the paint but this doesn't happen with all woods so one of the things you can do to see if your furniture is gonna bleed is to just test a little spot you'd see I tested it here with the blue that I wouldn't be using along with some white just to double-check no bleed showed up so it seems like this wood is good to go with me to just paint over it if the bleeds would have shown up then I would have known that I need to prime or seal with lacquer to be honest I probably prime or seal about 80% of the pieces that I work on just because I don't want to have to worry about bleeds popping up unexpectedly but since everything is good to go I can go ahead and start applying paint for the paint I'm using Valspar signature and a satin finish this is actually a Sherwin Williams color double lapis I don't do a lot of brushing so I haven't invested in a lot of brushes I usually just use these Linzer brushes from Walmart they're about $10 a piece and they seem to do the trick for me keep in mind that this is a water-based latex paint this isn't anything like chalk paint if you're used to using that you'll have a lot more working time with this type of paint without having to apply any extra water it levels out on its own personally I'm not a fan of a lot of brush strokes so whenever I'm brushing I like to apply the paint and thin coats rather than trying to apply two or three thick coats I'll apply four or five thin coats this allows the paint to level out on its own blend in and you get a lot smoother finish with less noticeable brush marks this is what the first coat will look like when you're doing thin coats it'll look sloppy messy and translucent but as you add more coats it starts to build up again here's what the first coat of paint will look like after it's applied with the first coat done on the body I'll leave this to dry while I work on the drawers applying the paint on the drawers is exactly the same as painting it on the body except easier everything to do with painting from this point forward is just rinse and repeat so I'll speed this up here's what the first coat of paint looks like after it's dried and ready for a new coat this is the second coat of paint being applied at 8 times speed you can see how the color is already starting to fill in this paint has great coverage I ended up only having to do four coats on this and I still achieved a nice smooth finish [Music] here's an example of what the second coat will look like after it's starting to dry just to save time I'm going to clip through the next two coach this is the third coat and then this is the fourth coat [Music] I wait about thirty minutes to dry in between each coat usually four coats does the trick whenever I'm painting by hand after I let all of the paint dry out is ready to take the masking paper off the top and get ready to glaze the base since I'm going to be using wood stain I'm not worried about getting it on the top to do the antique glazing I'm going to be using men waxes dark walnut wood stain and this chip brush to apply it this is basically the same process as glazing with water-based products except that I'll be using a dry rag and it's a lot Messier I apply the stain over the paint working in sections because it likes to dry up quickly after I've applied the stain on one section I'll use a rag to wipe it off I like to start off by wiping the stain off in the middle and leaving it in the edges and intricate areas so that the details pop another advantage to using wood stain to glaze is that it tints the paint whenever you apply it and wipe it off so while this blue is a pretty bright bold color right now applying this wood stain is going to mute the color a little bit so it'll be a little bit darker but still a nice bold blue tone at this point I'm happy with how the left side of the body looks so I'm going to glaze the rest of it to make sure that it all matches [Music] [Music] [Music] after finishing up the body and making sure that I'm happy with the way the glazing is turned out it's time to go back to the drawers [Music] the last thing left to glaze are these little legs [Music] now that all of the glazing is complete I can put the drawers in and take a step back make sure I'm happy with everything before I apply a topcoat [Music] with a topcoat I kind of cheated on this project I already had some Minwax polycrylic water-based polyurethane loaded up in my sprayer so just to save time I used my sprayer to be able to get the top coat done quickly I applied three light coats of polyurethane and then one final wet coat the final wet coat will have milky appearance whenever it's applied but as it dries it clears up it also allows this piece to have a very nice smooth factory-like finish now that just about everything is done the last thing to do is to put the hardware on and here is the final result of this project I'm really glad I was able to do something different do something with a bold color that I don't usually do I hope you enjoyed this video I hope you were able to learn a few things from it let me know down in the comments what you think about this piece is there anything that I could have done differently to it if you're new to my channel or just lazy and haven't already done so make sure you subscribe and hit the bell so you get notifications when I do post new videos I've got more projects coming up thank you very much for watching this video and I'll see y'all again soon [Music] [Music]

Channel: That Shabby Guy

Views: 210,964

Rating: 4.8956075 out of 5

Keywords: painted furniture, annie sloan, furniture makeover, dresser makeover, how to chalk paint, how to, painting furniture, flipping furniture, shabby chic, diy furniture, how to paint furniture, paint furniture, distressed furniture, furniture painting, paint wood, chalk paint tutorial, facebook marketplace, diy, try guys, that shabby guy, shabby chic furniture painting, home decor, shabby chic diy, valspar, latex paint, glazing furniture, antiquing, antique glaze, chalk paint

Id: 6X-l_ggOkqg

Length: 21min 52sec (1312 seconds)

Published: Fri May 22 2020