1960 John Deere 1010 Rematch. You Said To Keep Trying...

[Applause] oh for [Applause] that's not going anywhere those chains are 12,000 lb braking strength by the way and there's two of them and this whole thing only weighs 10 hey there welcome back to farmcraft I'm John this is a John Deere 1010 that I tried to get running recently and failed miserably maybe not miserably but it's it's not running yet well let me do a quick review on what we did I got it so that it would crank over and then I discovered that the injection pump had no output whatsoever and I thought well maybe the fuel rack is stuck so I opened up the injection pump to find that it was an absolute disaster in there and I ended up doing a full rebuild on that injection pump and the pump now works so that was actually kind of cool if you want to see that uh the links to the videos are in the description I then bled the system and got good fuel delivery to all four injectors but discovered I was still not getting any smoke out of the system now even if the injection pump was out of time you should still get smoke because if I'm spraying atomized fuel into those cylinders right before the exhaust stroke you'll see it come out of the stack and I got nothing coming out of the stack so I know that all the injectors are clogged but that doesn't really matter even with starting fluid the thing wouldn't pop off so you know that told me you need to check the compression on this thing because if you got starting fluid one you've got fuel and the other big variable then is do you have compression so I checked the compression to discover that I had basically around 200 to one cylinder was 280 the rest were all 240 or less and that's too low for a diesel to run I did a wet test and they all came up and you know generally that means you have a problem with your ring sealing against the boore so you either have scratched BS or you have worn out rings so in my view that was sort of the death Cry of the machine it needs an engine rebuild cuz that compression is not going to get better but a bunch of you disagreed with my assessment you felt that if I could get this thing running the the compression would improve I'm a jack of all trades I'm certainly no expert in this and I think a lot of you guys know more about this than I do so I think you're probably right you know I think those Rings it would be ridiculous to think that all four cylinders have completely stuck rings but maybe they're just a little little tight they need to heat cycle and loosen up a little bit same with the valves the the valves that had been sitting for years open might have a little rust on the seat and if you can get them hammering away at at running speeds those will seal up better and uh you might get better compression there's enough of you that had some really good ideas that I think I need to revisit this old girl and see if we can't get her to pop off I agree it's very close if I can get that compression up just a little bit uh I think we can make her run some of the cool ideas that you came up with um one I should have thought of is just put 24 volts to the starter and spin it faster because obviously if you got higher RPM you're going to get better compression and that that may have made a pretty good difference uh and I will do that if we get to that point but there's a couple things I want to do first another thing that I had actually thought about doing but honestly it seemed kind of ridiculous but maybe it wasn't so many of you said uh tow it with another machine and basically pull start it you know if the transmission's working you can actually crank the engine very fast uh with the tracks uh much faster and stronger than you can with the starter uh and if you do it long enough you're actually going to build up heat in the block and uh probably get it running and I think that's a pretty awesome idea just pull start the darn thing I did definitely want to check the valve lash the problem with this thing is the valve cover is up here and uh the fuel tank is right right on top so you have to do a lot of disassembly just to just to get to the engine and start working on it so that's why I've pulled it into my working Bay I'm going to take the radiator off the front off the fuel tank off so I can really get to this engine but the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to pull these injectors we are going to boroscope the cylinders we're going to take a look at the cylinder walls if they look horrible well that's not going to be good well but we but I still have a good plan for this video uh if they look reasonable I need to get these injectors open up so I'm going to get to work on cleaning them out and get those spraying a good fuel pattern so let's pull these [Music] [Music] injectors so I wanted to point point out a lot of people thought Stuck valves valves stuck open so obviously that's a possibility on something that's been sitting but I don't think I have a valve stuck all the way open I wouldn't get a compression reading you know this glow plug hole is only that big certainly that's as much air travel as a valve being stuck open and you hear what it sounds like when you crank it over like this it doesn't have any compression at all and you would not get a compression reading on on your on your compression tester so there's no way the valves are just stuck wide open now could the valve seats be in rough shape and uh something that would clean up if I get it running yeah I think that's reasonable now I'd really like to put this injector back on here and check for a spray pattern but I'd really have to bend all these lines a lot and I'm afraid I'm going to break a line and it's just not worth that cuz I'm going to be taking that off in a little while anyway uh but for right now I'm going to go ahead and get these things soaking in some carb cleaner try to start getting some of that carbon out of there carb cleaner more carb cleaner we are recording so let's go down into cylinder 1 yeah it's going to be tougher to get in there than you might think because the injectors don't inject directly into the cylinder they're injecting into this pre-combustion chamber let's see if we can snake through it I can see the cylinder wall there but it won't go any further I'm moving the engine so you can see the Piston moving all right that's all the way down right there wish I could get in there and really look around I tried to look look at the other three cylinders as well with similar inconclusive results you know I have another scope uh let's give that a try yeah I'm not hopeful that's going to be able to do it either but this one has the side cameras on it if I can just get it to get down in there so I guess I just take that off and that gets me into the pre-combustion chamber and then uh should be able to get down into that cylinder you believe it's fighting me it's the first time on this [Music] machine about too cold chis hey so the outside of this is blocked off from the C ER this outside area communicates with the coolant passages and that's why it looks so crappy so that's okay that is one side of the precombustion chamber and that is the other side and then you can see that little hole there that's why I wasn't able to scope the cylinders and I'm still not going to be able to cuz it's too small it's a very small hole but maybe I can at least get a better look this so precombustion chamber now I'm looking up in that passage this is the coolant passage here so that's going around like valve guides and so it's going to look all junky but when the pre-combustion chamber is in it doesn't have access to the cylinder that hole is just barely not big enough for this camera so there's no scope in these cylinders so here's the best view of the wall I was able to get but it's really hard to tell the condition some of that in there is oil or is it all scratched up I can't tell so it turns out I have this old USB camera I have no idea what this thing is I've had it for years I didn't pay much for it got it off Amazon I'm sure the IM image quality isn't going to be good but it does fit so the lights on this camera leave much to be desired this was the best footage that I could get with it and the laptop was sitting right in the Sun so I could not see the screen I had no idea what what I was looking at as I was doing this I thought the Piston was at top dead center so I rotated the engine to bring the Piston down turns out I was bringing the Piston up so you're about to see the last images that this camera will ever shoot so the answer to the question is why don't I scope the cylinders well cuz it's about impossible to do on this machine so let's start ripping and tearing she's going to fight [Music] I'm leaving that one on there while I do the other [Music] [Music] side [Music] what [Music] fuel tank wasn't even bolted down it be nice to have that out of the way and this I'm going to going to take the radiator off too let's get to this darn engine so we can see what's going [Music] [Music] on [Applause] bre that's the sending unit and it's leaking a little bit but it had a nice Hood over it so I don't think water was getting in the inside of that tank actually looks remarkably good hardly any surface rust um yeah tank is Bueno except for that Lake right there but I don't really care about that I'm going to go ahead and put this back so one thing that's bugging me here is if I do get this thing running I have no way of cooling it that's a specialty hose I mean I could probably go find the hose but the water pump won't spin it's totally locked up so so I need to come up with some way to cool the engine right now I definitely don't want to run it because you'll recall a lot of my water drained out of the block when I had to take that off to get the fuel filters off which means it's actually air behind the cylinder sleeves now and that would get hot very very quickly and damage something if this thing is salvageable at all I need to come up with a way to cool it what I'm actually thinking running water directly through the block you using my garden hose pressure and uh just letting it dump because trying to get this serviceable at this point is just not worth the effort cuz this thing still may end up being an autopsy I had two oil lines from the transmission to disconnect and cap these of course cool the transmission while the machine's operating I think the next thing I want to do is get those injectors so they're actually functioning a little bit came out little bit [Applause] for so obviously I've developed leak the uh the carb cleaner is going to basically boil off yeah I knew it was limited time that this would work it would probably be fine to put it in with the uh with water but I think the carb cleaner is going to help get in there and really break up the carbon deposits or whatever's in there that's blocking it up yeah I'm just not convinced that I'm getting these really cleaned out now the pressure that they operate at is so much higher than my air that that may not may not be an accurate way to check but let's see if we can get this thing open oh that one wasn't too bad so this part is really just a just a tube look at that all of them were wide open here and uh it's just the head here that has now been soaked in carb cleaner and then also ultrasounded well now I've taken it apart and I've filled it with carb cleaner so we're getting it from the inside too and I'm just going to cover each of them so it doesn't all just evaporate and then uh tomorrow we will blow it out and flush it out again and put them back together and see how they [Applause] do shop air pressure is really not enough to test an injector area diesel set until you get to 1500 PSI these things aren't even supposed to open so technically it's the ones that are leaking that are malfunctioning probably all in all they really looked pretty clean inside let's get these back together and we'll torque them down going to put them on the on the injector pump and see if we can get some spray out of them Click put put some clean diesel in here there was a lot of comments about me not addressing the fuel tank before trying to run the pump the way this thing goes is the fuel goes into the filters straight through the filters and then to the pump and I blew out the lines between the filters and the pump and I checked the filter housing it wasn't bad so yeah I don't see that as an issue now that I've taken the fuel tank off it's definitely not an issue just the tank actually is the best looking thing on this machine there's two supply lines and one return line now I could just return into a different container but if I just use one Supply I've got to plug the other one and I don't have a plug for it so basically it's the easiest to use the tank so pump is getting fuel I can now crank it and bleed fuel through the injector [Music] pump when I blow compressed air through this is the only one that um puts anything out at all the rest do not and by All rights they should not so in fact this is the one that may be faulty but I'm just hoping that I'll get some fuel through all of them all right I've got cardboard propped up in front of all of them so hopefully we'll be able to see this I don't expect them to inject immediately cuz there's air in them still but uh let's see what we get it's getting worried for a second that actually looks really good on those three and this one is leaking right there apparently somebody didn't do their job adequately these two look pretty good I think that's the best and that's the one that had a little bit of air that went through it with my compressed air go figure I think that one looks the worst but they're all putting out fuel now and uh that's uh that's kind of important they were not doing that before so these were my two best cylinders on compression and this was the best this had 280 this had 240 so I put the best injector here the second best there and I also put the two functional glow plugs there so I'm trying to get myself the best chance to get this thing to fire yeah then once it's running hopefully things will heat up and loosen up valves will seat in better and compression will go up across the board that's the hope now we're going to bleed it to this [Applause] point this air intake is a big heavy piece of cast iron and will hold a lot of heat so I am going to use that to my advantage I hope and yeah now that I look at it I probably should have gone ahead and looked at the valves while I had this thing apart but I don't know I'm just trying to get it running didn't really want to open up that can of worms if I didn't have to it looks like it's a pretty dirty and uh goofy way that that valve cover goes on and and I'm not sure that I'd be able to seal it up well after pulling it so we'll do this but if we uh if we need to go on and open that up we will now before I start this thing I really would like to try and get water in the block that's what was in the block that's a/ quar MPT so this is/ qu MPT I've got a coupler there that brings it up to 1/2 and this is a 1/2 to a garden hose so what I need is a coupler and I don't have one so I think you see where this is going I do have this piece of aluminum that actually came from aluminum cans this thing isn't going to be holding high pressure or anything I don't have a piece of Rass like uh big enough for this so let's make a coupler [Applause] yeah so that stuff's really gummy and it's kind of grabbing the tap rather than cutting making it hard to tap but this uh it just doesn't matter all I need it to do is carry water at at relatively low pressure that will screw into the block and that will screw to a garden hose you turkey you believe that so close she's fighting if I screw it on the other way so that this comes back uh that hits there so I had to flip it backwards well now the handle hits the block okay so now I just need I need to get water in there that shouldn't be that hard shouldn't be that hard I got an old piece of garden hose it goes to the traditional hose fitting and the other end I think I can just cram onto that we have water to the block and we made a fitting for no reason where's it going to come out I guess it would dump into here and then come out the bottom uh the bottom radiator tube there yeah oh look at that good looking stuff that water that came into there came out at this level so we're we're above the cylinders I put a stopper in the bottom of the radiator there so uh let's keep running it and see what it does well that's not good I was worried about that taking that pre-combustion chamber out of there and losing the seal the question is does it have access to the combustion chamber is it just going to leak here I can see water there so we are good there's certainly enough water in there to run it without any concerns what I'm going to do first I would like to try to do it without the starting fluid I'm going to heat up this intake really hot so that all the air going in there uh is preheated and uh we know we have fuel going to the cylinders now and let's see what this thing does what I really want to see is exhaust uh smoke coming out of that exhaust all right we are good and [Applause] hot [Applause] nothing well now I must say maybe I'm learning something here I really would have expected some smoke cuz I know fuel's getting in the cylinders now but I got no smoke so maybe we need to flip that injection pump around 180° see what that does see what we get with a little starting fluid that's the only way I get any smoke so that's the thing if if the injector pump is out of timing yes that's a problem obviously but I think you should still get smoke out of the exhaust although I'm starting to doubt that now but when you spray starting fluid in there the timing no longer becomes an issue when it compresses it's going to explode it should fire uh the fuel issue has been solved with that or at least in theory 180° spin back in it goes so I'm sure some of you are wondering why I don't time this thing correctly put cylinder number one at top dead center and then put the pump on with the timing mark aligned well couple of reasons one I don't have the manual for this machine so I don't know is that cylinder one or is that cylinder one and and I don't know if the timing mark because the timing mark for the old pump and this pump did not correlate so I don't know if the timing mark on this is going to correlate with top dead center on this thing so basically I feel like I could really end up chasing my tail here since there's only two configurations this can be in I figur just flip it around is the easier thing to do we'll just crank it and see if we get any smoke that's what I want to see is smoke so that's on Full Throttle [Applause] I would say no different man I don't get that at all okay let me show you what I've done now so I put a second battery back here and they are wired in series now I'm doing the solenoid here because I don't want to send 24 volts to that solenoid there's no need for that and it's likely to burn it up of course this is likely to burn the starter up anyway but what do I have to lose here so we're going to crank it much faster I'd like to see some smoke come out of that exhaust certainly spinning over [Applause] faster sound good either ooh and the starter's smoking well before that starter dies let's uh let's hit it with some starting fluid and see if this thing will pop off spinning this fast it certainly [Applause] should [Applause] that starter is about to catch fire you know I can keep fighting with this thing Towing it around trying to get the block heated up enough to get it to start at this point I really don't think it is worth fooling with anymore and honestly right now I think my injection pump is 180° out so I ought to flip that back around I think I'll do that while the starter's cooling off all right injection pump is flipped back let's try it again that thing almost ran holy crap boy that thing sounds bad I know the injectors are squirting I think I just don't have enough compression let's heat up this intake more go [Applause] here I mean it's totally running off the starting fluid it's got fresh diesel I know the in injectors are squirting I have to conclude that the the diesel is just not combusting because of low compression okay all right I think what I need to do now is pull that tank back off and uh pull the valve cover to dis disassemble so much on this thing just to get to the valve cover pretty [Music] stupid should have drained the coolant out of the block before I pulled that just getting rid of the coolant that uh spilled in there so those two are being pressed yeah they all seem loose now I have no idea what these clearances should be but I would guess somewhere around 20 that's 20 that fits very easily it could be 30 yeah 35 will not fit oh no 30 fits there not there yes yes so yeah they're uh they're between 30 and 35,000 so I'll try to look up and and see what that's supposed to be but I don't think that would make it not run got the starter back on 12 Vols I just want to see what this [Applause] does [Applause] let's have a round of applause for that starter huh I have abused the heck out of that thing pulling this exhaust manifold off so I'm sitting here thinking why am I not seeing smoke uh from my the diesel that's being injected and maybe it's just washing down the cylinder walls and into the oil it must be it's not coming out the stack it's not in the exhaust manifold where else could it be going huh interesting so when your compression is low enough that that the diesel just really doesn't combust uh you're not going to see smoke at least that's what it seems like to me I'm not sure just kind of thinking out loud here so I looked up the spec and actually the intakes are supposed to be 12 and the exhaust is supposed to be 18 so when they're too loose like this that means that the push rods don't actuate the valves for that additional amount of travel that is in your in your clearance in other words it's 30,000 instead of 12 the push rout has to travel an additional what would that be 18,000 before the the valve even starts opening and it never opens as far be it never opens that additional 18,000 and then it closes sooner so typically when your valves are are too loose unless they're crazy off it just amounts to less power cuz you're getting less air in you're getting less time to exhaust usually it's not going to prevent the thing from running but I'm really close here this thing doesn't have a whole lot of Reserve to work with so getting this right uh might be a good thing this is an intake valve so let me see what it is wow 32 fits in there easily yeah it is 35 I've got a little bit of drag there yeah actually that's maybe even uh maybe even a touch loose at 35 that is supposed to be 12 that's a big difference so we crack this loose so 12,000 fer gauge and all you're doing is just kind of putting it in there and dragging it there I can feel it's just starting to catch it so that that's where where I want it right there sometimes when you do the the lock nut it will change your reading so little bit loose that's good so this is an exhaust valve let's see what it's at so it's right at 30 and it's supposed to be 18 that's good right there right there okay so I'm going to go around and do that to all the valves once I've got all the ones that are loose I will turn it so that I can see the cam shafts no longer pushing on those two get those loose and then I'll do those so it's exhaust two intakes two exhaust two intakes exhaust I'll bring you back all the valves are adjusted they are correct and uh you know none of them are stuck so I think you know other than like pulling the head and actually doing a valve job lapping the seats at this point I've done everything with the valves that I can do so I'm going to put that back together it's getting late I'm not sure we're going to be doing too much more today but we definitely made progress see what tomorrow brings all right it's first thing in the morning and it's cold I had a couple of thoughts overnight and um not quite ready to put this valve cover on I'm actually going to spend the morning doing a couple of things one is I'm going to make absolutely positive that the pump is in time with the valves off I can actually determine where the cylinders are in their cycle so I did determine number one is the front cylinder that's the typical way to number the cylinders now if you have like a V8 and you've got two cylinders towards the front well then you're going to have to look at your book and see how they wanted to uh to identify them but on almost all engines the front cylinder when they're in line like this is going to be number one so I need number one at top dead center of the compression stroke and that's when the the pump marks should be lining up the other thing I want to do is do some leakdown testing uh I don't have a leak down tester that is basically you charge each cylinder with compressed air when it's at top dead center on the compression stroke we'll get into all that uh and you've got two gauges one is your incoming air and one is the pressure in the cylinder and you can compare the two readings and you get a leak down percentage um but what I'm going to do is I'm going to charge each cylinder with air I don't have those two gauges to get a percentage I don't really care what the percentage is I want to know where the leakage is so if I charge the cylinder with air and I hear it coming out of the intake well then I know it's the intake valve if it's the exhaust it's the exhaust valve if I pull the oil stick and it's coming out of the crank case well then it's the Rings and if it's coming out of here or the coolant system well then it's the head gasket so basically I can look at each cylinder and determine where's the leakage really where where the leakage is coming from is the most important thing which brings me to what I messed up yesterday taking that off and that is now leaking uh I don't think it's getting into the cylinder but it certainly could be so I'm going to pop that back off of there and we're going to put some sealant in there to try to help with that so I'm going to do that first and then we're going to time the pump and then we're going to do leak down so this is really kind of getting to the guts of the problem with this engine then we're going to see if we can make the darn thing run yeah I actually think the leakage was probably all just leaking out from from the coolant I don't think it was getting down into that pre-combustion chamber but uh I am going to put sealant around the base there and then also up here you feel better right at the bottom there that's a copper ceiling ring and all the pressure of course is straight down so it's this surface that really seals out the pressure and uh that surface looks good so I think we're okay there so got this Permatex Aviation sealant back in there look at that I just realized I could have taken that off with leaving the injector alone huh didn't realize that I'm going to turn this engine over that's cylinder 1 that's the intake that's the exhaust so we are going to find its top dead center all right so I am turning it okay that's the exhaust we'll just keep going this is the proper direction of engine rotation so now the exhaust is closing and then we should get intake all right so we are cylinder should be going down and we are drawing air into the cylinder all right it's closing so we should now be coming up so this is our compression stroke and I'm still turning it over a little bit but uh you're not going to see anything on the valves cuz both valves are closed during the compression stroke so now we need to get it at top dead center and the way we do that I will show you is over here on the flywheel there is a little viewing Port there and actually I'm really really close right there it says DC dead center and that is the flywheel back behind this bell housing that we're looking at just seeing that doesn't tell you are you on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke but we know because we looked at the valves that this is the compression stroke so the engine is at top dead center so how's our timing on our pump no timing mark wow so this is how the pump was when I originally got the machine and uh I think it was backwards I don't I don't think it was in time so if I turn that 180° the timing mark should be there so let's do that and see if I'm right I hope I'm right just to be sure that that timing mark isn't just like out of the window I'm moving back and forth so that we can verify that it's not just an adjustment thing cuz you can twist that pump a little bit yeah I've I've rotated it a quarter turn in both directions and no timing mark to be seen we should have a timing mark come into view so I'm not looking at the Mark I'm looking at the shaft to make sure I get 180 which is right about there and I can see the timing mark right there so there the timing's on the [Music] money and there it just dropped into the shaft and that's right where I want to bolt it down I've got the flywheel exactly at top dead center and the pump is right on top dead center okay finally I know for sure that the injection pump is in time if it wasn't so darn hard to pull the valve cover off of this thing I would have done that a long time ago okay job two is done now I want to do leak down tests first I need a way to put compressed air into the cylinders got another bushing to make air fittings almost all of them are a quarter npt that's national pipe thread I have tons of them there's no sense in me trying to machine this basically I need a/ quarter npt thread mail and then I can just screw that on this is what screws into the glow plug that's a 916 uh 18 thread this is the adapter I made before but that goes to an M10 I'd have to make an adapter to go from M M10 to this uh I might as well just leave this alone and I'm going to make 96 18 on one side and then a quarter where this is will be a quarter npt mail so basically that's the adapter I need to make whenever I'm making something like this so I don't screw up I write down my Dimensions the quarter n PT side and then this is the 9/16 side needs to be 533,000 let's just get close to it it'll be fine and then 558 on this side and then the 720 is the diameter around to then Mill this into a hex uh to put a wrench on it let's get her done sh a yes I really need to make a die holder for this let's go ahead and put a hex on that and then uh then we'll hold that in the Vise and finish that out all right all right now we can finish threading this so I found this die holder it's really made for uh hexagonal dieses but it has the set screw hopefully it'll work on this so the question is does that thread on there answer yes that hooks to air that threads into the glow plug hole now we can put air to each cylinder at top dead center and that's really going to give us some information okay we are at top dead Setter on cylinder 1 so here's our intake here is the coolant here is the exhaust so basically intake valve leaking if air is coming out there head gasket leaking if it's coming out there exhaust valve leaking if it's coming out there and rings and boore leaking if it's coming out there that's the uh the crank case the oil fill so let's plug it in and you could hear it but this little piece of fuzz has no movement at the intake no movement from the coolant really no movement in the exhaust maybe a tiny bit yeah I can feel a tiny bit but it's not it's not much look at this there's your problem lady yeah so that one is the the Rings so that one is definitely either the Piston the cylinder walls and or the Rings let's rotate now and we'll get not sure what the firing order is on this thing but we'll see which cylinder comes to top dead center next the intake valve is just now finishing so we are at the bottom and one more half turn will bring that cylinder to top dead center now these coolant passages have got to communicate with each other underneath but just in case we'll do that whenever we test where are we leaking intake valve is leaking quite a bit coolant is not exhaust is not crank case is leaking a fair amount yeah most of it's the crank case yeah see now the intake is not leaking nearly as much that and now I feel a tiny bit on that intake but really not much exhaust nothing yeah it's the Rings as well it's definitely less than the other cylinders I've tested so far and that's interesting this is the one that had the best compression it's all kind of fitting what I expected but I'm happy I'm doing this this is a a very powerful thing to diagnose what's going on with an engine quite a bit com coming out of the intake on that one a little bit on the exhaust nothing on the coolant there you can see the intake very little on the exhaust and of course quite a bit coming out of the crank case again but on this one there's more coming out of the intake than the crank case right now let's see if we can change that yeah that's a lot better see that all right you know so what did we learn um couple leaky valves but they seem to change with slapping so that would probably get better if I could get this thing running and it's going to be variable every time the valve closes so here's what I'm thinking we now know that we have the injection pump in time I'm going to put the valve cover back on we're going to put a little oil in all four of them we're going to crank it over so we don't hydrolock we're going to put everything back together I got to put the fuel tank back on to supply it Fuel and then I'm going to heat up the block I'm going to use torches and I'm just going to get the whole block up to like 200° and get the intake good and hot and then we're going to start this thing and see if it'll run what do you think there's no torque Speck on these things so we're just going to do what feels right they're five 16th bolt so somewhere around 20 ft-lbs all right I'm putting about 10 cc's of oil into each one all right I'm going to get this all put right back together it's nice that it's that quick uh I've got this magnetic heater that I'm going to put on the oil pan and we'll let that heat up for a little bit the block heater has been on there for about an hour I just had lunch and uh I'm just going to go around and we're going to sort of gently evenly heat up the whole block I'd like to get it up at least 150 so what I'm trying to do here I've been heat soaking it for a while I'm trying to get uh the entire area where the combustion occurs you know basically the top of the cylinders uh to at least 150 all right I'm going to do this slowly and carefully so I don't start any fires and we'll see you guys back I think we're ready to give this a go I'm going to give it a hit of starting fluid the block is full of water I got the intake hot it's got fuel the pump is in time and the block is at least 150° everywhere we heated up an engine with a torch before before trying to start it hopefully we won't get any uh unpleasant [Music] surprises here we [Music] go really wish I could be over there seeing which cylinders are [Music] smoking come on baby before that starter give gives up the ghost I'm spraying water on the starter and torching the engine a holy what are we running on one cylinder what is that [Music] what a piece of junk it's running IAD for some bl by I don't know if you guys can see that that's a lot of blow by I've turned the hose on partially so I'm just dumping water through it so I checked if I loosen the injector lines of any of the cylinders uh the engine is affected so all the cylinders are firing why is number four smoking so much none of the others seem to be smoking at all look at that that is ridiculous I turn that down quite a bit cuz I want it to get good and hot not too hot but good and hot all right here's my theory cylinder 4 there I think the oil rings are done so it's just burning tons of oil but the other ones yeah I mean they're all they're all burning uh-oh we let it stall look at that [Music] abomination [Music] well there you go guys that thing ran because of you guys I had given up on it and I got enough encouraging comments and good ideas to keep rolling with it and um I have to say you know even though it smokes a lot it's all coming from cylinder 4 and uh it actually didn't run that bad that almost sounds a little better with the muffler on there look like a what a piece of R it she's just a little bit Smoky look at that oh man okay now what well I wish the clapped out old thing had some kind of cooling system on it so that I could drive it around without worrying about over right [Music] away a

Channel: FarmCraft101

Views: 279,073

Keywords: john deere, john deere 1010, crawler tractor, john deere tractors, john deere 1010 crawler, heavy equipment, track loader, machine restoration, cat track loader, heavy equipment repair, crawler, johndeere 1010, diesel engine, diesel engine repair, injection pump diesel timing, injection pump, diesel injection pump, area diesel service, skid loader, compact loader, compact track loader, skid steer

Id: 57fqPkrT9Tk

Length: 69min 26sec (4166 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 29 2023