1,000 HP Supra build | Live @ Sema | Thursday

so I will end up over here a little bit a morning it's better for you guys to come around at that point for me to turn the engine so maybe we talk about that when we get there okay all right having stuff in Papadakis we're here at the 2019 SEMA show and we're building a Supra 2020 super engine live here at the show this is the same engine we've been building on our youtube series yesterday we did the crank rods and pistons the rotating assembly and then today we're gonna work on the timing components the cylinder head and hopefully we can get to the valve train all within the two hours let's get started so I've already laid out a lot of the parts that we're gonna try to get to today we're gonna start actually on the bottom side now and some of the stuff actually did not get you to yesterday which is the oil pump so as I flipped the engine over you can see we've got the yaw though crank rods and pistons in and we've got this the girdle all bolted in which ties in all the main caps with the skirt and now we're gonna put the oil pump which goes on this side and it's a chain drive and it's this big contraption right here so the way this works is it pulls in oil from the oil pan through this screen it then pumps through here and then out through all of the different systems so what drives it is this chain and this chain excuse me and this chain drives off of these one of these two gears on the crankshaft so that will line up just like that so we'll come back and do that after I get the the pump bolted in the pump is bolted in with these four bolts so this has been a fun live production here we've actually had this engine assembled once this is the same engine we've been doing on the whole series and we tore it down you know change the parts like that we want to change Pistons rods head studs things like that and then we assembled it we ran it on the dyno a couple of days last week and we had some good success tore it all down cleaned all the parts and now we're reassembling it here at the show so I'm gonna go into the tool box and look for this eat Orcs socket which I believe is this one nope the e torque stuff is a little bit new to me so I'm still learning all of like kind of you know and it feels like metric stuff or even standard I can look at the hex bolt and then I'm like oh that's a fourteen million six teen serve or whatever this one I'm still learning a little bit so what I usually do is just sort of spin them in to save some time and then come back and torque it and then I've got a whole list of torque numbers here the oil pump is fifteen let me so we're gonna use this torque so I'll just torque em all up support or torque em up to 15 okay so oil pumps installed and now we're gonna do the the gear that drives it so they've sort of the high end engines it sort of trended towards the the oil pumps that are chain driven and that gives them a ability to under drive them a little bit because if you have a high rpm engine let's say it's seven or eight thousand rpm that's a lot of RPM for a pump so they usually try to spin them a little bit slower than the crank shaft it's the oil pump bolt which is actually a left hand thread and again a torque socket and then the torque for that one oil pump gear 3.6 pounds and the 90 degrees so I'll bring out trusty angle torque wrench which needs to be so like these things reset because it does angle at all these different angles like whatever angle you hold it out it can still read the angle so somehow it needs to know where it is in space okay so what it's a three so I'm gonna do the three this one right and then 90 degrees so I need to not let this turn so who hears you look like you wanna help me out for a second - I might be a little bit okay so hold on so I need I'm gonna go that way you actually hold it yep so just hold it there keep keep it pushed in because the way this works is this got the the four holes so I'm gonna turn this 90 degrees ready and this ratchet late this torque wrench lets you done okay thank you so oil pumps on done next step we are going to put on the oil pan so in order to the oil pan we need a little bit of silicone I'm gonna swap some parts here so this is the pan we're gonna install and I'll leave the head gasket in here hide that for a little bit so inside the oil pan this is the oil level sensor and temperature sensor and then a nice aluminum oil pan so as always since this doesn't use a gasket it just uses silicone I always like to make everything super clean so you know the silicone has a good clean piece of metal to adhere do so I usually kind of one wipe to just get away the oil and then I'll do another one with a clean part of the rag to just make sure it's super clean and then same thing to the oil pan they are yeah so shop towels are good around like on the car and stuff but I really like these lint-free ones and yeah I sprayed the ants on Amazon I forgot they're called though but I've been using these for years the Pink's a pink and the green is a little tacky but somehow let's become I guess maybe it's my trademark now yeah oh this is just a contact cleaner but you brake cleaner contact cleaner like if in my if I'm in my engine room and I don't want the the smell of all that I just use a rubbing alcohol and then if this smell goes away so if you're working in your garage at night with the heater on or something like air conditioner then alcohol works well to not get you to fumed out all right um I actually we're gonna do the timing cover first I always I've only like I said I've only done this once but the next thing I'm gonna do is a timing cutter so the oil pan it bolts to the whole skirt here at the block and then also part of the the timing cover so we're gonna put the timing chain on and the guides and then the timing cover and then that gives us the whole surface for the whole oil pan to bolt to so again I'll spin it over this way maybe I'll leave it a little bit up so it's easier to see we'll grab the timing chain so this is what connects the crankshaft to both of the cam gears and we can actually let that hang for a minute on its gear and these are the timing guides so this timing guide is the static one I think I remember and this is the one that the tensioner pushes on to adjust it and then the timing chain rides within it let me uh something like that and that one goes through the the head right okay so again this one gets siliconed on and then also there's bolt that go to the middle of it so the silicone actually has to go in these Center ones as well where the bolt holes go all right this for next okay and the silicone I'm gonna use is just it's a new tube of it I like this ultra great stuff there's a lot of factory stuff that's quite good too but this one seems to seal up well it's the same color as aluminum so you don't end up with all that black or orange everywhere I really don't like the orange color and then I'll just apply it to all the areas that we need to seal up and there's a lot of ways of doing this like there's a factory way of a certain bead width and height that the service manual recommends I'm not that particular on it I just make sure that I sort of have it right it rises up a little bit it's totally covered some other engines have liked some of the aluminum pieces don't necessarily align perfectly so you need a lot more silicone in certain places this engines quite this engine is machined really flat and all the parts really line well so I haven't had that to be an issue so just spread the silicone around wipe the extra off now the tricky part which is the rear main seal we've got to get around so this is what holds the the oil in from coming out from the crankshaft spins in here so you got to make sure that this doesn't fold in at the same time while I make sure that the timing chain is on the right side of all the guides so there is a special tool for this that I don't have yet but I'm able to get it with my hands so that's okay so the seal is installed so now I just have to make sure the guides and the chain are in the right place you need to be over there these are some of the things after you've been working on an engine for a while you know like the little tricks to get it to be super smooth so I'm getting there but if you look up here the chain needs to be kind of straddling that little spike right there so I got to make sure that that's on the right side of that make sure the seal looks good and then it goes on and again I'll make sure that the chains all in the right sections of everything so this one there we go so what I'm doing is I'm looking under and making sure the chain is in the guide properly and that everything's gonna work when it's all assembled properly which it is now yeah so this is a static guide and this is the one where it later when we put the tensioner in it adjusts and it keeps the right amount of tension on the chain so now that we've got this installed properly we can actually let this hang on that little nub and I can put the bolts in so while I'm putting these bolts in are there any questions here well I'm going through this or if you have any questions on the stream put them into got a team behind me so we'll introduce them in a minute should they put them in the chat or in the comments put them the chat yeah so if you have questions put them in the chat Jen who won't introduce you to in a few minutes is going to kind of sort through them and then she'll pick some and I'll answer them live on the stream right now or in a few minutes all right so we've got all of these small little bolts and where are we on this camera so we're gonna put all those in right now you got that deal yeah cool I'm ready yeah [Music] so Mikkel block asks if we're going to use the DI or port injection or if we're go to port injection while the DI still be active the what we've been doing is we are not using any of the DI which is the direct injection and what the direction junction is is the fuel system that injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber we are actually it is a good system a really good system but with our aftermarket computer and the amount of fuel we need to make a thousand horsepower on e85 fuel it's well beyond what the factory fuel system was designed to deliver so we've added six additional injectors into the intake manifold and that's what we're going to run a hundred percent of the fuel through initially and then the direct injection the injectors that are go into the chamber we planned on leaving them in but we're probably going to remove them because you can run into some challenges by not using them which we have been on the dyno a few days and we'll show all of what those challenges can be in the video that comes out you know in a couple of weeks when we show all the dyno footage yep so because this engines been run and the pistons are not that impressive looking anymore we wanted to show yesterday on the stream kind of what the what a new piston looks like and what all the trick looking coatings look like so we decided to just replace one of them and also wanted to show the installation of the piston onto the rod but I didn't want to do you know all six because of time yep yep Jonathan Diaz thanks for the question we're gonna use total standalone we're not going to use any of the supra electronics from the car and we're gonna run the engine on an engine dyno because what we're trying to do is really prove out the mechanical side of the engine and try to make that thousand horsepower or figure out what we need to change in the engine so we can support a thousand we want to minimize the variables and because the aftermarket still really learning and how to make those kind of power levels with direct injection and by reprogramming the stock of the ECU we didn't want to have those challenges and trying to work on the mechanical side as well so we're working working with AM with their infiniti system which we went running on our other competition cars and it's been really reliable and they're in Southern California so if we have questions we can reach out to them directly and they've helped us out a lot so I've almost got all of these timing bolts in and then I'm gonna come back and actually torque them all and again I've got the torque written down which is uh oh you know what so I would want to torque them all you know that like feeling like did I forget something when I left the house I've had that all week and because we just have the tools that we have here I don't have my three eighth two quarter inch adapter so I'm just gonna do these by hand which is fine on cover so these are torque to seven foot pounds and I've been building engines long enough to know what about what seven feels like so I'm fine with that if it was something critical like a rod bearing or something like that or the head studs you would always want to torque it but for a timing cover with silicone I'm totally fine by hand and then I'll double check him like that okay timing covers on so next we will turn it back over and then we're gonna go and put the pan on and you'll see the chain sort of fall back out the top here so bear with me I'm gonna grab a pic our lifes grab a needle nose and make sure that the chain is all line properly this is one of those things like it's deep in the engine and you got to keep an eye on because you can get into part of the build later and realize like the chain is caught up on something and then you got to take a bunch of stuff apart so I'm gonna spend a little extra time now and make sure we don't have that problem hmm so what's happened in here is the chain kind of like wiggled its way to the other side of the guide so now I'm trying to get it back on to the right side which is totally doable but one of those things where so what happens is the guide floats a little bit there we go am i sweating yet so what I'm doing is the others a guide and the chain goes in between it and what's happened is the chains kind of gone out out of that section so I'm trying to get it back into the center of the guide sometimes it's the unglamorous part but this real problem-solving with the screwdriver alright so I got that in there cool okay so that's good so now we can put the pan on okay so I'm get a fresh towel and a fresh glove so I broke that one these are always kind of hard to get on with sweaty hands yeah oh you're back nice people were commenting there like who's the girl in the front I'm like the chat I was reading some of the chat comments from the the video yesterday what's there all right so I got my rags towels hiding down here yeah all right so before I put silicone on I'm gonna make sure that we're good so this is good oil pump the chain that's tight those are all tight I'm happy with the chain guide and I've got my oil pan Hardware not here so maybe it's down here so I need to run to the back to where all my extra all the parts are and find a little baggie of hardware so I'll be right back do you want to do a little toolbox tour once you go cruise through the toolbox deal and you're welcome to open and close the drawer so I'll be right back [Applause] you we'll keep going maybe I've got some boxes hiding under here gremlins all right so we can actually keep moving while maybe just kind of yeah keep looking so we're gonna skip the pan we're gonna come back to it and then we're gonna put the head on so I've already pre-installed most of the studs because that's not that fun to watch but I will install a couple of them gonna make sure the sting stays in the guy this time so the head we want to clean up all the oil again because we want the gasket to seal up real well and we're gonna use the OEM gasket which we're not sure what the horsepower limit is on it yet but we have upgraded all the hardware that holds the head down that you just had bolt stock and we've put head studs in and ARP made these custom studs for us for the for this b-58 2020 super engine and those are available once they're available yet but they'll be selling those soon so again just get everything all clean and the dowel pins are already installed to these two pins are what align the head so it stays perfect on the block and the there because those are good and then I've put a little bit of engine oil just--all just a little bit on the threads of the studs that go down into the block so these just get installed by hand you don't want to use like an impact or something and then what you do is you kind of just go until they bottomed out and then out maybe like half a turn or a turn and the socket is not that one oh this is what I was using so what I'll do is I'll spin these in until it bottoms out and then I'll just bring it out a little bit the reason why you do that is you don't want that last thread where it tapers out to take a bunch of the pressure when you tighten it so what you so what's happening is when you loosen a little bit and then when you finally put the nut on and tighten it it'll be evenly load all the threads in the block and then once they're all in kind of give it like a little just eyeball because what'll happen sometimes is you can get some little oil or whatever in there and it'll start hydro locking you think it's tight but it's not and then just looking making sure they're the same height you know that they're installed properly so those are all good or head gaskets is down here and again this is just the OEM gasket which is what they call a MLS gasket or a multi-layer steel and it has layers of steel and it comes factory what's this orange sealant and that helps to seal all the fluids and it only installs one way which is this way gonna let lines on those two dowel pins and then we're ready for the head so here's the head and what I want to do is I'm going to flip it over there's no parts and all the valvetrain is laying out on the table and I've got some on the Box down here once we get some more room I'll bring out the rest of the valvetrain so I'm gonna flip it over make sure it's again super clean and then and then we can start installing the head so the head has been modified to where we've ported the we've opened up the ports a bit to allow some more flow and then we run super tech brand valves Springs retainers and keepers so the valves can deal with the really high temperature and the springs are more pressure because when you have a lot of turbo boost and more rpm you typically need more spring pressure to make sure the valve closes and doesn't float at high rpm so again just clean it all up cool thanks Paul hey Paul yeah so they're about they look almost like this they're going to have the head and there's going to be a bunch of them so that's nice and clean we will then see here I'm gonna clean up I'm gonna clean up my space a little bit before we do this next big step unless yes so you know squared as I had him out yesterday and then I put him away probably somewhere safe you know when you put something safe and then you can't find him later Thanks you guys looked through all the stuff in the back all right so because it's kind of hard to get to these threads once the heads installed I'm actually gonna pre lube all the threads and then put the head on then put the washers on and this is a special ARP installation Lube so this lubricant goes on the threads and because it's such a high torque 135 foot-pounds you need typically need special lubricant for that and then it comes with a brush but I like this smaller brush just try not to make too much of a mess so some of our some of the challenges you can have with a really high horsepower turbocharged engines is making sure that you have keep the head gasket intact when you have a lot of turbo boost what'll happen is would you want a lot of cylinder pressure but that's the force that pushes the piston down that's where you get the torque from and that's eventually where you get the essentially with the horsepower but one of the things you know that's hard to it's a challenge to keep all together is the head gasket because as all that force is pushing down the piston it's also trying to push up to the head it's trying to push out through the gasket and one of the reasons we update upgrade these studs is we want to make sure to keep the clamp load on there and it not sort of move up and be able to blow it out but what can also happen is with really high temperatures and really high pressures you can just reach the limit of some of the materials and you can still blow the head gasket out so we run these really trick ones on our four-cylinder engines where it's a special copper alloy a ring and a really soft copper gasket and we have to do all these special machine all this machine work to the block to make it all fit and work and you don't want to have to do all of that crazy stuff if you don't have to so we're hoping we can get away with the factory head gasket and just upgrading the studs to make the thousand horsepower so we'll see how that goes I know guys are already making at least six or seven hundred with unmodified engines which is pretty good but the difference between even 800 horsepower and a thousand is there's a lot more a lot more forces going on there it always feels a bit exponential as you try to make more power going for 300 to 600 is doubling it but the next double is a lot harder to go from 600 to 1200 okay so I got all those all set up okay so now I need help from Kenya me again okay so it's gonna happen I'm gonna set the head down and I'm not gonna go all the way what's gonna happen it's gonna try to get hung up on this just put your finger in get it out of the way I'm gonna get the head passed there a little bit and then pull your finger out so I don't smash your finger okay ready done make sure I have a good handle on it all right yeah so just just your index finger okay uh nope pull the whole thing towards you a little bit yep there you go okay you guys done and then it needs to go down on the doll cool so the heads on there now we're gonna put the washers and the washers have a top and a bottom I don't know if you can get this but this at the top where the the nut spins and you want the nut to spin on the washer because they're both hardened and they can deal with that pressure you don't want the washer to spin on the block so there's Neuros on the washer and those go down towards the sorry off the block but the head these go down towards the head they'll dig in not allow the washer to spin and the nut can spin on the washer so I'll go install all the washers so if you bring the camera and you can see where the washers go on the stud and the little pocket where that everything gets installed the light inside the convention center is actually pretty cool like we kind of set up here and then it wasn't so good but the convention center or the Toyota booth here has like these spotlights all above and the light guy has like a little controller too he can start pointing them so we got him to point you know all the spotlights over to this area and like this is the best lighting I've ever had assembling an engine it's great and it's actually really low dust I don't know if it's because it's dry or whatever but nothing has been just not dusty nothing has really been collecting dust that's weird so so now I'm just going to just get assembly Lube on the top of the washer where the nut meets it I know where's Jen I think we look for the trash can where we dumped a bunch of the the wrappings and stuff from this morning it yeah maybe look through there no there's even more stuff than that somewhere I had a couple friends text to me last night after the first show they're like dude how are you doing that live um I don't know man I'm just doing what I normally do I guess but it's like having a friend over you know it's kind of fun to work I remember working in my garage or in my shop and actually when I was like 16 years old 17 years old I used to go to the local tuning shop and I was the kid that would just hang out and watch the guys work and I just want to sort of like absorb the knowledge there and a lot of the older guys don't want to like teach you they don't wanna take the time because they're trying to work right but sometimes if you just watched their their habits and their patterns it can it can rub off and hopefully they're good habits all right so next is the head stud and it's 9/16 and we're gonna use an extension alright so now we got to put the nuts on the studs and what I'll gonna do like all the rest of the stuff is I'm just gonna get them started and then I'm gonna zap them and then torque them down so certain engines like this that are all metric and then when you modify them with sometimes performance parts or you know traditional studs like this they actually have a metric thread that goes into the block and then a standard thread on the top of it on the top of the stud so where most of the stuff is is metric this is actually 9/16 standard 12-point nut so you still have to have a lot of different sockets and tools you never know what you're going to need and I was always used to the the engines we worked on used like ten millimeter 12 millimeter 14 millimeter 1719 but this engines used a lot of 13s and 15s and sockets we don't use super rarely use Oh no problem okay so now that I've got all the threads started I'm actually gonna zip them all in so I don't have to spend a bunch of time with that I'm going to do that with the impact and the head studs get tightened in a sequence so from the inside to the outside so I'm going middle then the next out and then the next out and then all the way to the outside and the reason we do that is so you evenly add pressure to the cylinder head and the whole block and you don't crack anything all right and the torque wrench we're gonna use on this because it's 135 foot pounds is a big half inch drive and if I wasn't breaking a sweat earlier I'm gonna break a sweat now and we're gonna do it in a few stages so the stages are written down on my pad my piece of paper her head bolts you know 50 90 135 so so I will double-check everything is seated looks fine okay actually before I do that I just want to get everything compressed nicely by hand to like 20 foot pounds make sure everything feels fine and then now with the 50 I'll go to the NHRA drag races sometimes and they have those guys that you know they rebuild the engines basically between every run and they have like the left cylinder head guy and then the right cylinder head guy and those guy underneath doing the the Pistons and rods and all that stuff and they always kind of seem like they have the bigger guys doing the cylinder heads because they're I think those are torques like over 150 foot pounds and they just GM the things on with the impact and they come back with the torque wrench and there's like looks like a workout every every time they run the car but those guys with the top fuels and the dragsters they know how to keep the head gaskets on and they typically run at least what I've seen in the past is they run like a ring that stands proud in the block or the head and then a soft copper gasket and then a receiver groove like on the head so what happens is that ring pushes the gasket up and into that receiving groove into the head and that's how they're able to keep it keep it together and make the crazy power that they do all right so it's gonna double check that I got 50 everywhere this is not in sequence because I'm just checking but okay so now we're gonna go to 9d okay so I might not talk for a minute just so I don't skip anything Rockefeller I thought I brought my magnet it's okay I got these huh six all right so this is 90 foot pounds all right so now we're going 135 okay so I'm gonna go back now and double-check them all oh sweet in New York City you like it those are nice did you bring up a picture and then they and then she copped it nice good job all right here we go so everything's torqued but I'm gonna go back and double-check it normally I do everything in the sequence but if I'm gonna double check I like to do it in a sequence that I don't skip anything so I just go from left to right and left to right and those should they just at all they should all just click because it's at maximum something turns more then I missed the torque and it's good thing that I double-checked if we keep getting this that means we're good to go and I didn't miss anything so done okay it had to bolt it on all right and then always try to turn the torque wrench back to zero codes you leave the the spring compressed like that it can sometimes lose some of its springiness and then your torque wrench can lose its calibration and then we're done with the big one so I'll put it back in this box alright next we're going to work on the valvetrain which we can do without the oil pan that I don't that we still haven't find the bolts yet or no let me take a break why don't we take some more questions so if you guys have any questions on the stream put them into the chat general read figure it out a couple to ask me so go ahead and put those up if you've asked something and you're still online and they didn't get got you didn't get to we didn't get to it yet go ahead and post it again do you want to do like an intro with you guys let me know when Dylan's on hold on I'm a little sweaty so I'm gonna get a new towel and it's my hair okay okay thanks sorry it's dry in Vegas and sometimes it makes me Levi thanks for the question I think the engine has a lot of potential I think the aftermarket and us are still figuring out how to make a bunch of power out of it I think in five to ten years I think it does have a good future there's a couple things that it has going for it number one is I think there's a good ability to make power and number two variants of this engine are in a bunch of different cars so the ability to sort of swap different b-58 parts or to find like not super expensive and brand-new cores maybe there might be a lot of ability to do that in the future really no way okay how long does it normally take to put the engine together so Matt so I've put this engine again other once and I did it on a film you know I filmed myself doing it and that typically takes four times longer to do something when I film it I think I could knock one of these out in probably four hours maybe we're trying to do it in six hours here at the show which i think is totally doable but I think about four hours and maybe even quicker once I get a little bit more you know used to it and then have all the tools and parts laid out ready to go you were after yeah you sing Houston Houston 29 thank you are using more or less than a 2j build depends on the 2j build so this one we're not using very much its Pistons rods head studs valve springs retainers keepers definitely the turbo manifold ins things like that but maybe similar maybe similar to what you do in like a to to J's to jay-z build yeah so any questions from you guys yep so the pilot bearing boss he's asking about like we have this extra feature that we weld onto the crankshaft so the deal is these engines come with a torque converter on them and they don't have a pilot bearing due to that and the way that the engine dyno is it needs a pilot bearing to align everything and later on when we put a manual transmission for you know if we ever do this use this in maybe like something with a manual transmission we need that pallet bearing but it's we need a pilot bearing for the engine dyno and instead of we've found that if we press something in it almost always fails and we've had them welded into other cars that have lasted forever so we found that you can weld on the crankshaft in a non-critical area and there not being any issue with it so that's what we did on this yeah alright so I'm gonna get some gloves back on I couldn't find your bolts oh sure thanks for coming by yeah thanks for uh we worked with Jay and he turned around some custom studs for us really quickly that was great I think the bolt wise for the oil pan there I think they're eight millimeter 1.5 yeah they're eight millimeter one five but shorter than this so you want them down like a 16 mil or 12 mil along real short no probably 20 mil okay 20 25 mil is fine okay and if not it's not a huge thing we can wait for the pan to tomorrow and we'll look at four more for the both but if you've got something we'll use them okay yeah we need all of all those amazing all right we'll be here thanks man yep okay all right seen a bit Oh actually let me give you cuz I might use those right now go ahead and go ahead and bring one if you can come back in ten minutes that'd be great yeah no problem okay so what just happened here is Jen found somebody at the ARP booth and they have a bolt bin and they're gonna see if they've got their bolts that would already be the right size that we can just use in the oil pan that'd be amazing cuz you know who'd think you could just find bolts I guess this is the place where people build bolts right we're not build bolts but sell them okay so what have we done we've got the head on it's all torqued on in addition to the main head studs there's a couple of smaller bolts and these helps seal up the oil the head gasket up in the corner here so if you can look in here there's [Music] a couple of areas where you can see these bolts go and we put them in and then tour come and I'm calling these the head two timing cover bolts and the head two timing cover bolts are 14 foot pounds so I'll just go up to 14 done and the reason I'm putting these in is so I can finish this part and then we can start putting in the cams and the valvetrain and the cool thing is with the oil pan I seen a couple of bolts to kind of hold it on I mean not even put the silicone on it if we don't have all the bolts and then I can put the rest put it the rest of the way on either tomorrow or or back at the shop or something so done 14 okay I'm gonna clean up a little bit more now so the we're done with the ARP lube because that's all installed and we're finished with the 9/16 12-point and okay the next is so this timing cover the timing chain there's a bolt that goes in the side here and it keeps the timing chain guy guide all aligned and because the threads are the only thing coming around over here I'll show you what I'm gonna do the timing chain guide rides on this pin and we need to put a little bit of silicone on the threads here to keep the oil from leaking out so it's a little bit there and I'll get a torx for that which I think is this one sometimes your hands all slippery it's hard to get the sockets off slice use a little screwdriver get it off see here I really like these ratchets it's like a quarter inch ratchet and it's a flex flex head but it's got a 3/8 drive on it so when you want to install stuff sort of quickly I feel like it I can use it more effectively or more efficiently and then I don't over torque it like you might on with a big ratchet so that goes through the head and it aligns the guide just like that and then that gets torqued to t30 bolt into external block six No lo just 8 8 foot pounds and I'm gonna get a rag and clean up the extra silicone that came out of there okay timing chain feels their timing guide looks good that looks good the next step is to put the cams in in order to put the cams in we need to make sure everything's a top dead center with this engine to get it to top dead center we actually need to put the flex plate on what I'd like to do [Laughter] okay it looks like something my something is probably gonna happen here so let me I'm gonna flip the engine over yeah you know what if we can get away with just a couple of bolts then I can put the pan on at least temporarily for the for the show and then when we gets it back to the shop I can finish it so I'm gonna go ahead and flip the engine over and then I'll set the pan on there all right so the pan dude look what I found the pan bolts you know how they like you put something I'm gonna put it somewhere safe so they don't get lost they're taped to the oil pan it's the safest place if only if only I knew thank you guys I think you are the catalyst and us finding on but let's see let you know what that's let's compare it and then you guys can do some R&D right now and then you'll know we've got a b-58 oil pan bolt already let me lay these out here on my towel classic all right I like yours yeah are those stainless or nickel or let's use them yeah let me let me lay these out and see how many we need do you guys want to hang out for a minute I'll make a little bit of room here to do that and then we'll put on our upgraded oil pan bolts alright so we've got two long ones which I don't know if you've got real long ones like this it takes a couple of these but if you've got two of those 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 21 it seems plus the two long ones parmie to long and then 21 short so let me do this let me start putting silicon on this while the guys over here set up all of our hardware this pan doesn't use any kind of dowel pins so we just put something flat on the edge and we align the pan with the back of the block but we'll get to that in a minute so I'm gonna thing like the timing cover put a nice bead of silicone [Music] dude I can't believe you guys brought over a whole bowl pin that's awesome hi how do I come up on one of those whole things here's some washers if you want to use them you know don't okay Wow cool it's a nice is amazing so I'm just gonna spread around the silicone they make sure it's everywhere so in a situation like this block where everything's flat and everything is the same level I'm not so worried about a big tall bead but some older engines you may not want to be so easygoing with the silicone you may want to have a lot thicker bead but I'm confident on this one that this is just fine so once we got that I'll spread around and I'm confident we've got that good then I'm gonna put a little extra silicone where the where these gaps are and everything else is superflat okay and then we take the pan let me try not to drop it on the carpet I like to just take like a mental picture before I put stuff together and just remember back to remembering that I tightened everything and whatnot okay so next we're ready for the bolts so the two long ones go up here no problem and these are a 12-point metric ya in stock so 10 millimeter 12 point socket so what I'm gonna do is the first get a couple of corners we're gonna go no washer because I like less parts in this engine the oil pan doesn't go down on any sort of dowels or anything so it actually can move around a little bit what needs to happen is it gets lined up on the surface here boom okay so now we can put the rest of the hardware in one - do you have let me see here that lets the resize oh that's the starter bolt okay not every hole gets used because the starter also bolts up to this area now I'm sorting to think what else we could swap in this thing right yeah let me get all of the let me just get them all started and you guys are welcome if you got camera or anything you guys are welcome to share take pictures of this or whatever on your stuff so back in the days the engines we used to build had gaskets on all this stuff gaskets between the oil pan and the block gaskets between the timing cover like all these things and and I remember that they started changing the engines over to just use silicon and at first I was thinking it was just way worse like I need a gasket or I got a clean all the silicone off and but nowadays I believe that the silicone what the machine surface is definitely better than the gasket I do like Oh ring setups but typically you only see Oh ring setups on like full-on race builds okay so we've got all of the hardware we need so we're good can I hold on to the washers and cool thank you very much I appreciate it Thanks okay thank you yeah okay so now I'm gonna finish tightening these and torquing them before we take another break so I'm gonna zip them all on real quick bling-bling and then I'm just going to torque these two 15 sure you could torque them more but it's just an oil pan bolt so I'm not gonna get too crazy with it and I'm gonna go in a little bit of a pattern here kind of from the inside out and then I'm gonna go double-check them by just going around in a circle and I'm gonna stop in a couple minutes and I'm gonna stop in a couple minutes and we'll answer some more questions so if you guys if you're just joining us we're at the 2019 SEMA show we're building the 2020 super engine this one's been modified we're trying to make a thousand horsepower with it we've changed the Pistons rods head bolts valve springs retainers and then put a much larger turbocharger a different intake manifold a bunch of other stuff that we'll get to tomorrow we're doing the live build today and then we're finishing it up tomorrow which is Friday from 1:30 to 3:30 Pacific time so we will continue tomorrow right now we're trying to get to the cylinder head about the valve train on the cylinder head so we've already installed the head and now we're doing the oil pan and then once we get through that we'll work on all the valve train so the cams and the rocker arms and timing chain all that kind of good stuff so if you've got any questions go ahead and post it on the chat and then Jen will go through them ask me and then all I'll answer the question cool oil pan installed all right so Jen can we do is there any questions here oh what's up man good to see you yeah all right thanks yeah it's been fun the yeah yeah this is this box I've been wanting for a while like the thing is I like the big boxes but in order to get into our engine room I can't get it around so much so this is this is perfect and it's just kind of engine building tools so I don't need you know the giant one yeah it's great any questions here guys good so the question is is there any issues with the the plasma sprayed I think so that so some of the technology on the block is it all lumen on block and they plasma spray a steel for lack of a better word like a liner on the cylinder walls and that's what the piston rings right on it's very thin so you can't really over bore it because you go past that that that coating so we've decided to not touch it at all we're leaving it in its om OM condition with the the honing and everything and then we're using the OEM rings which are matched to that and then design we designed the je pistons with them to work with the factory rings and in the future if you need to I guess rebuild it one option is to just replace the block which may be for us it may be actually less expensive to replace the block than to deal with sleeving it machining it and doing all of those those post processes or potentially someone could go in there bore it over and put a sleeve in there so you know I don't know what the the future setup will be but for now we're trying to make the spot factory stuff works and because it's a closed Dec block we think it hope we're hope that it's it's strong enough to meet the power that we want good question yeah so Matt Williams has a question thanks to the question will the factory drivetrain deal with the thousand horsepower it's a good question so for us right now we're trying to make the thousand horsepower we're actually gonna be dynoing it on an engine dyno so without the whole car that way we can take that variable out of it there's it can be challenging to get the factory computer and electronics and all of those systems to to be able to get to triple the factory horsepower so trying to take them out of the equation once we get to our horsepower goal if we are implementing that back into the car then we didn't we address that stuff right now I mean it's a challenge people are still working it out I think six months or a year from now not a problem I guess the the real question is can the factory transmission hold it I don't know I think guys are already running for sure load Ted second quarter miles with slick tires and I think I've heard some Puerto Rican because I'm Puerto Rican guys have already run in the ninth so if that's the case then that means the transmission is pretty robust but honestly transmissions are not my specialty so I can't answer that question very very well yeah so they that uses the ZF trans which is in a bunch of different cars and are known to be pretty robust but my experience was I don't have any experience with the ZF but my understanding is they're actually really strong yeah how with this engine perform on the street it could it be used in a daily driver with regular driving how long would a motor like this theoretically laughs yeah so Rick n wants to know will an engine like this kind of how would it perform in a street car and it should perform similar to stock it might make a little bit more you know noise because the forged pistons have a little bit more piston in the wall gap that so they can deal with the really high temperatures but other than that it should drive very similar and the setup that we're doing now for the engine is not necessarily raced only in the products that are being designed like the Pistons and rods and things like that would totally work on the street we want to continue to develop an engineer yep so big braaap wants to know what are the components that we may want to continue to develop one could be the head gasket some of the ceiling there another is the crankshaft we'd like to potentially build a stroker crank so we can get more displacement maybe make it a 3.2 3.3 or even larger displacement so that would happen with a custom crankshaft and then we'd also like to run larger lift camshafts and a race application we don't have to worry so much about smog so we can run a bigger more aggressive camshaft which will allow the valves to open more more airflow through the through the engine and then potentially make more power at lower boost and even make more power at higher rpm all right so I'm gonna put my gloves back on another set of gloves and then we will keep going okay the engines getting heavier as we get more stuff on it all right so the next step we're going to put all the rocker arms in so I'm going to clean up make some room and we'll get to that so give me a minute while I clean up yeah so the question is you know having a to to exhaust ports in the integrated exhaust manifold have we seen much of a limitation there we haven't gotten to the power yet where that might be an issue I don't I don't know yet we don't know you know intuitively like in the past we've seen when you go to a when you have a six port head and you go to like an equal length header they will tend to make more power and this is just inherently you know unequal length we're hoping that the factory knows something that we don't and maybe there's some stuff around it but that might be something you know once you get into the four figure range of horsepower to where we might reach some limitations there and then that's kind of part of the process where we try to figure out ways around it I don't know if it's porting it more or something else so we can continue to make more power beyond that but that is something that you know what we're looking at that might be a limiter for some of the really high horsepower right yeah so he's asking what you know maybe there's some options of swapping some other b-58 parts I think that's totally doable work we want to build this engine with all of the 20/20 supra components and so that's that's the goal here but I mean that's always been a thing with engines you kind of look around and you see all right what other cars use a similar engine and what other different components are they using on that that engine that we might be able to swap over to the bill that we have here it almost cleaned up all right so the part I'm gonna bring out now are all of the rocker arms so these are the intake lifters and rockers and the way that these are set up is the cam pushes on these rocker arms the rocker arm then pushes on the valve and that's what opens the valve and engines of the past they may have to they may need valve adjustments and with the newer engines they tend to run the hydraulic lifters actually a lot of older engines use hydraulic lifters too and they don't need about justments there they're self adjusting the intake in addition to having the standard rocker arm has an intermediate rocker arm which are these and we'll get to how those install in a minute but it's been a bit of even a lesson for me on how this modern type of valve train works all right so we're gonna start by putting all of the intake rocker arms in and so what happens is the rocker on pivots on this hydraulic lifter the cam or the intermediate rocker pushes on the the roller here and then it pushes down on the valve what we have here is a valve the titanium retainer the custom super tech valves spring and then the valve is what's holding it all together let the tip of the valve up at the top here that you can see and these are some of the components pardon me the flexplate so that question is how do we set TDC on this engine and you actually use the flex plate so in a couple minutes I'm gonna install the flex plate or the flywheel and there's a pin that we're going to install through the oil pan and it locks it into top dead center so a lot of a lot of little parts in this engine OOP slippery but I caught it oh you know what I need is the one extra bolt that the ARP guy borrowed to look at that he brought back that I need to put in there's probably the one person watching the stream that's like dude you never put that bolt in at the air PU I borrowed here it is so put that one in but okay so that's good I'm gonna leave this out so I'm gonna need that in a little bit okay so now we're gonna set the engine to top dead center and the way this is set up is it uses so this is the end of the crankshaft and this is where the fly will or the flex plate bolts up to if you're looking at this feature this is a pilot bearing that we installed for the engine dyno and then we actually weld it onto the crankshaft we've had really good luck with welding stuff actually to the end of the crankshaft for pilot bearings as such we've had a lot of bad luck with trying to press things in they always kind of work their way loose and typically you wouldn't want a weld on your crankshaft but we haven't found that to be an issue so we continue to be confident doing it this is the pickup wheel so inside of here this little magnets and there's a sensor that will slide in here later and that's how the engine control system knows the position of the crankshaft and that gets installed back here on the fly will end a lot of other engines will install some of these pickups on the front but having that the pickups for the the crank angle and the timing chain and all that stuff on the back of the engine can reduce a lot of harmonics because when the engine is firing that crankshaft can wrap up and sort of twist a little bit and the twist and most of that flex is happening eventually at the the nose of it not necessarily so much at the at the fly will end so if you keep the components on the fly will end you will introduce less harmonics into the timing chain and the valvetrain so it's a good thing even though there's been a lot of comments that it's harder to work on which may be true but when you're dealing with a performance engine sometimes you sacrifice some ease of work working on the car for performance so I'm fine with that so I'm just going to put the a couple of bolts in here for now and that only goes on one way the flex paid only goes on one way it has a dowel and so it only goes on one way if you come around over here I'll show you how we set it on top dead center so I've got a whole drawer of special tools here let me take this pin which you ever if you ever put it into the engine you got to make sure that you don't start the engine with this in because it'll rip a bunch of stuff out so it goes in through a hole in the in the pan okay see that and then the other side of it is slides into the flex plate so I can turn the engine boom and then it just that's it it's locked in the top dead center there aren't any timing marks on the pulley end because as far as like service goes and any you don't check this thing with timing lights and stuff it's just either works or does there's nothing to do just so but for us we do need to link it and set everything up with the AEM Infinity ECU so we've locked it in a zero and on the other end I've actually put a zero timing mark on it so I don't have to so we can have it running and see where top that centre is so we got it now on top dead center and we can start installing the rest of the cam stuff we've got another bag here of exhaust lifters and rockers so I can install those the intake and exhaust lifters and rockers are actually identical and the modern engines I've worked on all use this type of roller rocker so instead of a pad they have an actual roller and a needle bearing inside there and it's lower friction and longer wearing than an actual cam shaft pushing on a pad then how are we doing timewise so 15 minutes okay so 15 more minutes I'm gonna try to get try to get the cams in in 15 minutes so we will start with the intake side so then take sides over here I'm gonna put a little bit of engine oil on all the bearing races oh these don't need it actually because of the third cam okay so what's interesting about this valve train is it actually takes three cams you can call it but this cam is what adjust the variable valve lift so this goes in first and then the cam caps go on it and they're all numbered and they have to go back in their same locations and they can't be swapped head-to-head because when they line bore all of these there's slight differences and all the machinery and because the tolerance just is so tight everything has just matched so they are they number them from the factory so you got to make sure that you put them right back where they came from right and then I will use the impact to put them in and I'll come back and torque them so I'm just using the impact like just a little bit so it turns and doesn't put any kind of like torque on it so it just stops right when the bolt head bottoms out and then if I put a bolt in I torque it so I don't want to forget anything I'll actually torque it right now so all of those cam caps get torqued to seven foot pounds so we'll go and torque all of those that are already installed alright so next we're going to put in the intake cam so the cam actually rides on these bearing races so I'm gonna put a little bit of engine oil on all of them and then the intake cam is this one and now put the camp caps on in my head as I'm doing this I'm kind of looking at other places making sure I didn't forget anything so everything has a kind of a sequential order of assembly and if you forget to do something deep down you might have to pull it all apart again too to put that component in cool and then I'll start these by hand just to get the thread started and then again I'll zip them in and then come back and torque them back in the days they still have use a lot of air tools and always had that kind of air cord but nowadays the electric stuff so good like I don't remember the last time we brought out an actual error in pact or something like that all right same thing these all get torqued to seven and I'm not so worried about the sequence on these so I'll just go from left to right that way I am sure I didn't forget any hope so this has been this has been a really fun project because it's going into this world of sort of the our unknown and that's always a bit scary but I've learned a lot from this project and learned a lot of from what you know the factories are doing nowadays for technology and really appreciating a lot of that technology okay so we've got a camshaft and we've got rocker arms but the camshaft doesn't turn doesn't push the rocker arms yet because we need the intermediate rockers so these are what the camshaft pushes on it pushes on this what they call intermediate rocker then that rocker pushes on the the main rocker arm in the bottom the V and this is what adjust the variable valve lift so what I do is just set all of these intermediate rockers in there you might actually get a good view on this side so all these get set in between the called the third rocker and the camped sorry the third camshaft and the mate and the intake camshaft yeah if you guys if you guys want some of you guys want to come close and check it out it's kind of pretty interesting the way that the the rocker arms are set up so the camshaft pushes on this top rocker arm depending on where this third camshaft on the eccentric cam there is located it changes the rocker ratio from like barely lifting it open to full lift and there's a there's a motor that switches this rocker ratio super quick and a lot of the throttle is actually the rocker ratio and the intake valve lift changing verses the throttle body opening and closing and it's crazy that they get all this stuff to go you know tons of miles and it doesn't make any noise and it seems kind of just seems to work well you don't think about it okay so now these are called the things are called the gates so this is what keeps those intermediate rockers aligned and they have a little if two little grooves in it and their intermediate rocker rides in that groove and that's what keeps everything all lines I don't know man nowadays with the materials and the way that they all um a lot of time there they don't where I think where items and engines is sort of like an old old thing yeah cuz I pulled apart 20 year old engines that have been run well in the bearings they look almost perfect and you check out the tolerances and they're within like tenths so I think unless you don't mean if you maintain them well then you're you're pretty good dude I don't know man I think it's a steal with some sort of coating on it I would check if it's magnetic but I think I forgot I didn't bring my magnet okay so we're probably just gonna get through this intake stuff here and then we'll be done for the day and the tomorrow we'll finish the valvetrain and then we also have the turbo manifold the turbo and the intake manifold all to install this is a little different size how much of the hardware like half of it this one's not but uh like the headstones are the main studs a lot of it is the service manual says don't reuse them although I've had fine luck in the past reusing certain things but I guess you are taking a bit of a gamble if you do that so these are set up in a way that they need to be pushed up and up and across there's a certain installation procedure so I'm actually gonna use a click torque wrench on this so these are these are 15 foot-pounds and that torque wrench is here and then I've got a special tool that I brought there's actually a special service tool that holds this thing up I'm going to use these nip expires and so this needs to be pushed up against the up against the pad and seated so what I'll do is hold it up and seated is it definitely a bit of the rigged way to do it but it works just fine that goes there and then we get a plastic hammer all right so I'm gonna torque this one and then we'll sign off in a minute it's done so I'll do that six more times and then now everything is captured after that there's a secondary screen that goes in and then we'll get to all that tomorrow so thanks everybody for coming by and watching I know some of you guys were here pretty much the whole time or if you just stop it in right now thanks for coming by again or at the 2019 SEMA show and we're doing the live twenty20 super engine build if you want to see more of this or if you want to get caught up go to the Papa Doc's Racing YouTube page you'll see some of the other videos where we tore it down the parts that we and and why we modified certain parts in the engine and then the first time we assembled this at the shop if you're interested in seeing this on the engine dyno and us attempting to make a thousand horsepower hopefully we hit that number that's a video that's gonna be released very soon so go ahead and subscribe to the YouTube channel that Papa Doc is racing YouTube channel if you watch this video the live one you liked it please hit the like button and we'll be back again tomorrow Friday finishing this engine from 1:30 to 3:30 Pacific time thanks for watching okay all right thanks guys you

Channel: PapadakisRacing

Views: 279,367

Rating: 4.8470435 out of 5

Keywords: steph papadakis, fast and furious, Supra, papadakis, Civic, 2JZ, B58, drift, racing, street racing, drag racing, Toyota, engine teardown, horsepower, 1000, SEMA, 1000 hp, engine

Id: EtpXUYlhl_Q

Length: 122min 14sec (7334 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 07 2019