🦩 7.3 POWERSTROKE DIAGNOSE The No START A-Z ????

well hi this is custom works i'm clint allen and today we're going to be talking about 7.3 power stroke hot no start first thing what we want to do is always when you have a problem with your truck in the engine area get the tune back to factory or remove the tune completely i have a whole banana box full of six position tuners oddball tuners all kinds of crappy tuners that have caused irreparable harm to the 7.3 engine and its computer and idm in the future we're going to be talking about tuners this is not that video but anyways get that tune out of there let's get it back to factory let's give it a crank see if it cranks over and if it does you found your problem like i said i've got a whole banana box full of these things all right next on the list what we want to do is go into the truck put the key in the ignition turn it to the on position not starting just to the on position does the check engine light come on and does the glow plug light come on if the check engine light does not come on the pcm is either not getting power or it is shot the glow plug light doesn't come on that will keep the vehicle from starting and right there you found what your problem is you've got a glow plug situation and once again this is something that we'll be covering in detail in our cold start video coming in the future now next on the list what we want to check is batteries are the battery posts completely corroded when's the last time you clean them how old are the batteries are they any good the uh simple fact is is if the motor doesn't crank fast enough it's not going to start i know it started when it's cold but it won't do it when it's hot batteries will do that so you want to disconnect the posts from both batteries and we want to test them if you do not have a loaded tester then by all means just use your voltage gauge and if you have standing voltage under 12 volts the battery is or batteries are probably shot and so up in the corner up here is going to be a little flash of a banner and that's going to take to to a video about uh wiring uh upgrades alternator information and uh what batteries you should be using in your 7.3 power stroke and you can just come back in this video later and hit the button and that'll jump you to it next on the list do we have oil in the pan can't tell you how many vehicles have been towed in by me that don't have oil in the pan and sat at a dealership anyways do we have oil in the pan when is the last time you change your oil weak oil because running through the low pressure oil pump getting compacted and smashed then going up into the high pressure oil pump getting compacted and smashed going through the injectors and getting compacted and smashed runs that oil and depletes that oil of its hydraulic capability and old oil sometimes will not make the motor run after it's hot it's just too thin so that's the next issue that you need to check on and possibly change the oil i have seen this just by changing the oil and the truck runs and it runs really great which means that either you're going too far past your 5 000 mark for changing the oil you're using too cheap of an oil or the oil has just gotten too low now also when you're looking at the oil on the dipstick go ahead and take the little cap off of the high pressure oil pump reserve take a look-see down inside make sure that the oil is no more than an inch lower than the top of the case if it's extremely lower than that you have a issue with either the pressure ball and once again up here is going to be a video explaining that or you have a situation where your low oil pump low pressure oil pump is worn out and i have a video for that also and that'll be up in the corner over here once again you can watch this whole video and if anything interests you that i'm pointing at you can come back to it next on the list is going to be are you getting fuel now whether your obs or the 99 and a half through 2003 two different ways of checking and on the obs go to your fuel bowl empty the fuel out and when i'm talking about certain items here i am just going to have to make an assumption that you are going to know that you have to put something underneath the truck to catch fuel or catch oil stuff like that i'm just not going to cover those kind of items so empty the fuel bowl unscrew the lid on top and obviously obs you gotta crank it for a few seconds would be better to have somebody outside or you outside and somebody in the truck cranking and see if the fuel bowl fills up 99 and a half through 2003 just by turning the key to the on position same thing it'll just fill on up and you know your pump is working then at that point in time and we can take that off the checklist all right next on the list let's check fuses and no i'm not going to tell you which fuses to check and what years and what fuses to check i want you to learn your truck so go through and check all the fuses what we're specifically looking for actually is the ecm fuse even though we partially covered that just a little while back but check all the fuses make sure that they're all properly working they're all properly making connection because once again we're talking about 20 30 year old trucks and i have had situations where i've had no runners come in and i've done this list that i'm telling you sharing with you to find out that yes the fuse was good but you could take it and actually move it around in the fuse box to find out that just basically it wasn't making the connection so check all that then we also want to check the fuel bowl heater is the fuel bowl heater working this will stop your truck dead in its tracks she will not start can happen at any point in time here is something that once again you want to consider replacing now while you're in the situation and not sitting on the side of the road 20 30 year old trucks just put a brand new one in there ford original or reputable diesel site next on the list is going to be after market sensors did you do a naughty naughty and put in a cheap sensor if you have let's go back let's check the sensor up here is a link that'll take you to my sensor video information now some of them are testable some of them are not but a sensor that has gone bad sometimes will not show a code even though it went bad and a lot of times it's because they're aftermarket sensors but anyways check the after market sensors check the other sensors next on the list is wiring hand connectors i keep on harping over and over and over again if you've been following this channel consider and go out and get yourself a new wiring harness for the engine comment after comment after comment everybody says the same thing geez i did what you suggested and the truck runs like brand new there you have it 20 30 year old trucks those wiring harnesses oxygen gets in there moisture gets in there starts rotting the wires and it just doesn't send the right voltage it doesn't receive the right voltage at the computer connectors the connectors are worn out the plastic is expanded out connectors are not making the correct connection to the sensor or the wires are broke at the end or they're cracked somewhere along the line and they're just kind of shooting over making the connection and you sitting there with a truck that's running bad or a truck that does not start right there you could have simply just eliminated that problem from having to go through and test the wiring and check the connectors and you could just put in a brand new wiring harness and eliminated one of the issues the connectors themselves usually break right at the ends easy place to take a look at and once again while you're looking at the ends and just make sure that it's actually making contact now next on the list what we want to check is the icp the injection control pressure sensor that sits on the driver's side head towards the front of the motor picture and right there disconnect it pop her off go back in see if it'll start she fires up you found the problem get yourself a new icp sensor let's not forget ford original parts and or reputable diesel site that is the place to get these parts from now because of the age and you haven't gotten yourself a new wiring harness let's go ahead and get the old pigtail brand new clip brand new wire extension and if you go to my video once again up here that will show you how to properly solder a new pigtail in place so you don't have issues later on down the line now the next on the list is going to be the cam position sensor you know they're basically the average person at home doesn't have the equipment to do a test on this but if you stick around to the end of the video i'm going to give you some items that you should consider getting that's going to make your life as a vehicle owner and a power stroke owner much much more easier but anyways now on most model years when you crank the motor over the rpm will jump and that's an indication that the cam sensor is working properly but the problem is is not all model years do this so don't make the immediate assumption right again and i'm not even get into years because i don't want to have assumptions being made the cam sensor causes a lot of problems people make comments well geez could you help me i got a rough running truck well there are a lot of things that could cause that but the cam sensor is the first thing that you really want to look at first off don't get an aftermarket cam sensor once again ford oem or reputable diesel site will have the correct cam position sensor the correct color that you need and they will ship that to you they're very experienced individuals the cam sensor is going to cause erratic idols it's gonna cause when you're going down the road the the bucking and you let off the accelerator and accelerate again and it's just fine uh that is your cam sensor acting up when the cam sensor goes out she ain't gonna start this is what catches a lot of people though they come back in they hit the old google machine they hit youtube they go out there the following day and it mystically starts so it must not be the cam sensor cam sensor hot no work cam sensor cold will work either which way these do have a life to them now my suggestion i have never been sitting on the side of the road with a bad cam sensor all the trucks in the fleet never been sitting on the side of the road with a bad cam sensor or any other sensor but cam sensor let's get these changed at 80 000 miles or three years i know it's an extra expense pull it out throw the darn thing away put a new one back in there and life will get much better and your enjoyment of your 7.3 will be just paramount because you follow these tips and these tricks that i have once again 80 000 miles or three years rip her out put a new one in better to do that than get towed or have to call buddy to pull you home or whatever the case may be we all know how big of a pain in the old keister that is so please follow that advice next the ebp sensor exhaust back pressure sensor which is on the front of the motor picture and if that gets completely clogged up that will not all the time but will cause the truck not to start you'll have a preemptive on this your gas mileage will go if your fuel mileage has been going down and you've been sucking diesel like a alcoholic the ebp sensor is definitely where you want to go and get her cleaned out and if you go to my sensor videos we have a video for that now next on the checklist is going to be the high pressure oil pump once again let's go inside and see if there's oil in the reserve remove that little screw on top go inside make sure that it is at least an inch from the top so now we know we've got oil there possibilities of the low pressure oil pump being shot is minimal at this point but that's not a guarantee but at least we know we got oil up there for the high pressure oil pump to suck in and pressurize the injectors but go down to your local uh automotive store and rent yourself a oil pressure checker and hook that up right into the head just remove the icp and connect right there there's all when you when you get these kits they have all kinds of connectors all right worst case scenario is you got to run down to the plumbing store and get an adapter but in most cases all the adapters you need are in these kits that you can rent from the automotive stores get her all hooked up and anything north of 500 psi basically you're assured that the high pressure oil pump is feeding at least enough the bare minimums for it to get started so we can then check that off the list if the high pressure oil pump is going out usually it gives you an indication when you accelerate heavy the light comes on the cell light comes on the check engine light comes on and then when you let off the accelerator the check engine light goes off that's usually your indication that your high pressure oil pump is about ready to take a big digger and we also have videos that you can go into our library and check out about that nexon list and this probably is going to be the highest probability is the ipr check to see if we got a five volt reference and next after that pull off the solenoid and let's check the solenoid what we want to do is when you check your five volt reference you know which side now trying to teach you on how to learn to work on your truck here not going to give you all the answers but where the 5 volt reference is then you know that's going to be the positive side of that solenoid and obviously the other side is negative let's get a 12-volt source hooked up to that and let's not you know dilly-dally around let's just take a screw or a piece of metal and put it in the center of that solenoid hook up your 12 volt source to it if the screw doesn't come out or the piece of metal doesn't come out it's making a magnet uh with the 12 volt source you know that part of it is good get it disconnected right away you don't want to burn it out since it's good but the problem is is that some people don't change their oil or just over the years of the constant heat the little spring that sits inside gets worn out and it's not opening and closing properly and the backyard mechanic way of checking this is when the ipr is in and you take the icp out and make sure you have a lot of rags or towels in there and just bump that starter and if she shoots oil out of the icp hole you know it's sitting open and it should be not the issue but another way of doing it is putting a 12-volt source to it while it's installed in the truck onto that solenoid and once again we don't want to dilly dally here because we don't want to burn that out but get it hooked up the 12 volt source crank the motor over if it cranks over units another way to determine if the ipr valve is shot either which way these are another item that have a lifetime underneath most circumstances these will last right around 100 000 miles to 200 000 miles so if yours has been in the truck since forever and the day you might want to consider just replacing it um all my trucks that i have everything in the fleet every 300 000 miles besides what i previously have discussed i just take all the sensors out throw them in the garbage and put new sensors in never have any issues never have run ability problems never have any of the guys sitting on the side of the road with trucks this is just something that i religiously follow i know you might be in a situation where that kind of money just ain't right there but you can certainly around the 300 000 mile mark throughout the whole year say okay this month i'm going to change this one next month i'm going to change that one by the time you get halfway through the year you're almost finished all your sensors are almost completely changed out and you won't have run ability problems if you're using the ford oem or going to a reputable diesel site next is a very large issue that i always see and that is a leaking injector so if we've gotten to this point yet and she's still not running well we're gonna have to start actually digging in and playing mechanic get the valve covers off best to have two people in this situation and once the valve covers are off start cranking on her and watch on the bottom of the injectors and in back here is a video that's playing with a couple different sources showing how the leak would look sometimes they come shooting and spraying out of there sometimes it's just a slow leak that leaks down in front of the injector but either which way those first top three orings and attachments on the injector they just from time the oil pressure shoots through in between where the metal connector that holds everything taunt the metal retaining ring that compression ring has that slot in it so you can install it onto the injector and over time once the orings get hot cold hot cold worn out then the oil pressure actually shoots in between that metal retainer and shoots right on up and one injector a tiny little leak is enough to keep it from starting when it's hot so you need to check that obviously if one is doing it pull them all out and get them all handled and we've got a video for that next on the list if we've gone through all that [Laughter] and we still don't have a running truck we're going to have to dig into the idm so idm obs usually uh on the pa on the driver's side on the inside of the hood closest to the firewall uh the 99 on up to 03 that's going to be in the fender area on the driver's side and pull it on out now we want to be careful here but in the video here in the back and we're just going to cut from here real quick and then i'll narrate it show you how to take it apart what to look for and how to put it back together and if you find a problem in there whether it's rust or any of the caps are shot or any of the resistors are shot then you have to send the idm out for a rebuild and that is the best way to do it send it out for a rebuild don't go to ebay don't go to amazon and get yourself a remanufactured one take yours send it in there's all kinds of companies on the old google that rebuild idms uh several reputable diesel sites also do that um that right there is a common problem with run ability bad idling not running not starting right there because of the time the age and where they're located they really take a beating in those particular situations and this right here is your last resort of probably what's wrong then but we have to go through from point a to point b and make sure that everything that i discussed is already handled and checked before we start taking apart the idm box all right idm out of the truck and on the old bench right here is uh some silicone just go ahead and get this out of the way then run your blade all the way around you'll be able to feel if you're sitting on top of the the aluminum housing or the metal that should be something that shouldn't have to get into too much explanation about let's get her cut all the way around like i said then we've got the front right here get that cut you'll be able to feel when you're in between this plastic and the metal once again by how deep the blade goes then so get your screwdriver down lift up a corner now there's there's just no way of doing this without this metal getting bent but it's such thin metal that you'll be able to easily bend it back into shape so don't don't get all worried no big deal also don't be scrapped also don't be stabbing the screwdriver deep down inside the box you don't want to be hitting the board just ease her off of there then here sometimes you gotta double cut this but get your hands underneath kind of give her a little bit of a little bit of adjustment there first then we've got nine screws and we got one two three four five six seven eight nine these are number fifteens t-15s great set those aside now we'll go back to this hands underneath pull around up set this aside so what we're looking for here is rust that may have developed over time and in here we're not seeing any any type of uh rusting that has occurred but what we are going to do is now inspect especially right down here in that area right down there right here this is the first place that you want to look and then start even if you need a magnifying glass go through and start checking each one of these and what we're looking for is burnt ends burnt resistors burnt caps anything that's burnt and it usually is very obvious when you see a bad solder joint or you see something that has started to burn caps like this right here these will start bubbling out on top and crack and sometimes they'll ooze out through the top sometimes they'll ooze out on the bottom and those right there will be very obvious that they're leaking but you need to go through and check all of every component to make sure that it hasn't started melting or cracked and that is how you tell if the idm is in good shape or not or if you're going to need to send it on out simple as that when you put it all back together again if there wasn't a problem that was found the rtv is a gray adhesive rtv or i prefer to use this right here pl max loctite premium this right here when you put it back together is just a fantastic adhesive and sealant so that's this part right here and i'm just going to flash a couple photos of what these areas are going to look like when you have a burnt board or a rusted board stuff like that i'm just going to put them in there for two three seconds so you can come back and pause it whatever the case may be to take a closer look but that's how to get the idm apart and handle this situation right here [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so we're moving away from all the possibilities that you can have when you have a hot no start situation and next we want to move into some advice that i really hope that you follow number one in the comments uh we have lots and lots of people who say hey just tripped across your channel best channel out there for 7.3 power stroke info and i appreciate that a lot i also appreciate just go up and hit the like button this is how we're going to be able to spread this information this quality information on to other people i get hundreds thousands of views and then there's no likes gotta have some participation on your end so moving on from that this channel does not take any type of compensation for anything that i talk about so really wish that you would go and get some hot shot diesel fuel injector cleaner at least once a month give it a healthy shot of that that's going to keep your uh cylinders clean that's going to keep your fuel system clean that's going to keep your injectors clean from getting clogged up and jammed up and from running like that really helps um don't need to really go through this is some powerful stuff all right so we don't need to use it at every fill up just once a month go through and put a good uh uh a shot and a half of it in uh the recommended amount one and a half and just do that every month because this is expensive very expensive next thing 500 miles before your oil change hot shots stiction eliminator 500 miles before each oil change just go in there put in the recommended amount that's all the more that you need and that's going to clean up the motor and especially clean up the injectors and is going to make them run better both hot and cold and it normally eliminates the old once again that rough idling uh from just crud and crap that is in the oil and gets stuck into the injectors so please go ahead and consider doing that it's gonna make your life with the 7.3 much more enjoyable the biggest thing right here this is very affordable i mean it doesn't get any affordable than this i have been over the last year testing all types of systems for scanning vehicles and what i have found and we will have a video coming up but currently with sema coming up and i've got several subcontracting jobs with that and plus the shop is packed full of stuff that we normally do this is going to be in the future and i know the obd-one guys are going to go hey what about me we've got the answer for it but right now that's just not the time but to make life easier on you whether you got the phone or you got the pad um four scan pro is the app that you want to be looking for and this right here i have found to be probably one of the best apps and one that works on all the power stroke models uh except once again for the obd ones and we we've got a connector answer for that and i know you might have heard that before and that they don't work well we we found one that has worked we are ironing out some situations that because there has to be a mod done to it but anyways the connector to the obd2 what i have found is that the bluetooth models don't quite work as well and this will be down in the link this is the wi-fi version for the obd to talk to either your phone or preferably pad and i'm saying preferably pad because it's just you can pack more pids on it and it's just more easier to read but anyways once again the video will be a very complete video in the future on this if you want to go this way right now it's it's always fun diddling but anyways a product like this is going to be much more easier for everybody to buy it's cheap and it really works well so consider on getting that but anyways i hope you've learned something today and you take it easy and you have a good day you're still here yet it's over it's time to go home oh i know go ahead and hit the subscribe button hit the little bell you know the little bill and that'll tell you every time i post a brand new video until then go home take it easy have a good weekend whatever just go home go go go

Channel: Custom Works

Views: 122,083

Keywords: 7.3 powerstroke, powerstroke, 7.3 powerstroke cold start, obs 7.3 powerstroke, powerstroke 7.3, 7.3 powerstroke mods, 7.3 l powerstroke cold start, ford 7.3 powerstroke, powerstroke diesel, 7.3l powerstroke, ford powerstroke, 7.3 l powerstroke, fast 7.3 powerstroke, 7.3 powerstroke lope, 7.3 powerstroke sound, sensor, injection control pressure sensor, white smoke, no start, ect, engine coolant sensor, engine coolant temperature, custom works, hot no start, no start hot

Id: ZJ5BSBntTzA

Length: 38min 55sec (2335 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 04 2022