£7.34* Airbrush?! Can You REALLY Paint Warhammer With It?!

average is awesome right but they do come with some drawbacks they're quite expensive and they're hard to use indoors unless you've got a proper setup but you can get some amazing effects so you can get this glow effect really easily you can get really nice transitions across your models from different colors and they're really nice to use so I brought this airbrush from Teemu for seven pounds 34. honestly I think that's cheaper than most Games Workshop models I don't think there's a model which is cheaper than that uh the airbrush itself comes in this box it's obviously designed for like Beauty effects like nail art and stuff like that it comes with a USB charging cable some little cleaning brushes this here is the compressor itself um so it has a button there which it turns it on and off and it has two settings this is where it screws onto the airbrush this is the airbrush itself it's got the the thread there at the bottom to be screwed onto it's a single action trigger so it doesn't get up and down like most airbrushes but just goes backwards and forwards to pull the needle backwards and forwards inside the airbrush itself we've got the the cap here to cover the well um you can see in there pretty standard just goes down you can kind of see the needle in there a little bit if you look in the end you can see the needle poking out there and this has got a um basically like a two-part internal part but it doesn't have a separate Crown so if you have to clean the needle tip it is a bit awkward but overall you know pretty standard stuff the build quality is pretty cheap like this is this thread here is like a plastic thread for the rear part which is not ideal um see the needle here um and yeah obviously that's how it works the needle goes backwards and forwards to let the paint move from the Hopper into the nozzle and uh yeah the air carries it away onto our model so yeah it's a pretty cheap basic airbrush but you know it looks like it looks the part it screws onto the compressor like this just you know spin it on there one thing with this airbrush because it doesn't have a double action trigger so the air when you press turn it on is going to be on constantly you can't use this airbrush when it's charging but it has a little USB slot there it also has two extra paint Hoppers here which are in this clear plastic which is interesting I've not seen that before um not really sure I'm going to use those it's just going to give me like just gonna remind you how the inside of your average gets it also comes with a little pipette we've got a Mark 6 Marine here with a plasma gun and we're going to try and copy this scheme I'm going to be using Game air paints we can use a normal acrylic paint and then we're using some contrast paints as well so a nice range of paints to go through the airbrush and of course we have got some average cleaner whenever you get the airbrush out a good thing to do when you start the you know session is just to put a few drops of cleaner into the airbrush what this is going to do is going to help lubricate the parts inside there just to stop paint sticking to the parts and cells we're going to turn this airbrush on here we just press the button once and that's on and then we can see all we have to do is pull back the trigger and the cleaner comes out as simple as that so if the nozzle is a bit loose then you might get some bubbles inside um or you might not get the the paint coming out properly so make sure that's done got my little DIY airbrush Booth here um obviously the good thing with this airbrush is it's very portable so you could take it outside and just spray anywhere outside with it rather than using it indoors here I'm just cleaning the airbrush putting some cleaner through there just to give up the parts and set the apertures on and I've just put some black paint in there now um and yeah it looks like it's coming out right so this is Valerian model color black this is what I use to Prime most models and we're just going to give the model a coat of it all over you can see here that the average is performing all right it's not got Mega high pressure so the paint is sparring a little bit there um we could reduce this by adding a couple of drops of thinner to the paint but just for priming it seems to be doing okay foreign we're going to add some drops of thinner into it give it a little Swizzle around with a brush unit use an old brush so you can really get in there without having to worry about ruining the bristles and um yeah just getting to all those nooks and crannies just give it a good Swizzle out and then we're going to take a average cleaning pot these are just an essential piece of Kit obviously you don't have to use one of these you could just use like a a bottle or something you know just to spray that excess in there but these are quite useful they're easy to clean out gotta make sure the airbrush is on with this one to actually spray and yeah we just spray that into the pot and we can see that it disappears down into there we can do it a couple more times if we've got some leftovers but here's our primer done um the black doesn't show up very well on camera unfortunately but it's a nice smooth coat it's gone on really well so yeah First Impressions pretty good for the next part we've added a couple of drops of cleaner to the next color which is dark flesh tone this is another Vallejo game color um and we're going to mix it up just by putting our finger over the nozzle and then pulling back on the trigger while the compressor is running um this mixes the paint inside the hopper just to thin it out a little bit so we can get a smoother coat with this um and we're going to paint this all over the model again you can see it's going on quite quite nicely here there's no uh issues with the pressure on this I'm just trying to get into all the nooks and crannies without overspraying on anything this airbrush does have two settings so it has the higher power setting and then a lower pressure setting I only used it on the whole throughout the whole video on the highest setting so I didn't even try the lower same because the high setting just felt like it was maybe a little bit too low for pushing through really thick paint but more than adequate for pushing through any thinner paints once that's dry we can see that it has given a really nice smooth coat of paint across the model we can't see any spider webbing on there it's not built up too much in any areas and it's it's actually gone on really nicely so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to use some white now white is influently quite hard to airbrush because it Speckles a lot so one thing I do to avoid that is I use a little bit of cleaner or thinner into the airbrush to begin with and then I use the Mig matte white paint this is a standard acrylic you can see there's a little bit of brown inside there which is so that's like remnants from the previous color that we use where it's not cleaned out properly I'll come on to that a little bit later with this specific airbrush because it's um it's like kind of a design thing with it I can talk about that in a bit so we can see we've watered down the white paint here but it is still speckly so we're going to give it a good mix see if we can get it to come out a little bit smoother still sparkly um if it is still specially the two things we can do to revoid that is to increase the pressure on the the compressor obviously we can't do that on this one or we can make the paint thinner the problem with making the paint thinner is it then has a tendency to spiderweb which is obviously not ideal we don't want to have not big spider webs all across the model but it does mean that the paint comes out smoother so if we have better trigger control we can use that to our advantage because we've got smoother paints but obviously we just got to be aware of that to not go too hard on this particular area so what we do now is we're going to pre-shade the Highlight so basically on these models where we've got the the leading foot that's the column of light where we're going to put our highlights and then anything around that is where we're going to have our shadows obviously on the on the rear we're using the trailing foot because obviously that's the part this is the back I'm going to make sure we have white on the top as well obviously because we want the light to come from above um so leaving some brown on either side and then obviously we have that column of white up the middle of the up the front over that Leading Edge or leading foot I'm going to build that up um I could have probably built a bit more but I noticed that it was starting to spiderwe up a little bit um I think that's more my fault than the average foot just from getting a bit too ahead of myself so once that's right we can see it has gone on quite smooth there is some speckling here and there but at this stage it's not nothing to worry about because we're quite early on in the process and the next step is going to help flatten that all out anyway so next up we're going to use the Imperial fist contrast paint and we're just going to put that straight into the airbrush it's very thin as it is anyway we're going to use this as a filter so basically we're going to spray it across everything that we've already done on the model and that's gonna it's all going to turn yellow but where the brown is that's going to be a dark yellow and obviously where the white is that's going to be a lighter yellow so it's basically a concept of pre-shading and then filtering the model to get those shadows and highlights and it's a really nice way of getting a nice rich yellow across the whole model you'll have some really bright yellow in those highlights but quite some quite dark nice colors in the recesses foreign and um like the armor joints in black as well as some of the bits on the backpack and the gun and then we're going to do some simple highlights here so I'm using save and blight dinge and we're just going to highlight into those areas where we've got the column of light and do some Edge highlights along the gun as well and then next up we use dawn stone and just Edge highlight a little bit more and just refine those highlights even more just some really simple highlights here and obviously you find those Edge highlights on the rest of the model another thing we'll do is going to use some white and just really Define those highlights and that a little bit more to make them really pop foreign we're also going to paint in the plasma coil here we're using the two Thin coats white star it's actually really nice paint so this is the stage right at the moment there's not a lot of definition on the model so we've got those highlights which look really nice but the yellow is kind of just there um we need some real recesses so we're using this dark brown for green Vehicles by Mig and this is an enamel wash so what we're going to use is use a enamel liner brush which is basically this brush which you've got some mad long bristles they're like 20 ml long you can see here and we dip it into some enamel thinner and then just wipe off some of the excess and then dip it into our enamel wash and when we touch this to any of the recesses on the model it's just going to flow really nicely into those um for anyone who's going to ask in the comments no I haven't varnished the model this is just going straight from the paint to the enamel thinner so the enamel wash so even so you can see that it does flow just really nicely into that even without any varnish um yeah we're just going to go around anywhere there's a recess to add that extra definition to the model it's a really satisfying process to do if you enjoying the video guys please give it a like And subscribe to the channel it really helps and if you want to see stuff like this like before it comes available on YouTube or see the unedited versions you can also subscribe to my patreon anything from the four pound and up tier gets to see all my videos early and get unedited footage and then there's also some competitions and things like that on there where you can win a model a month or get tuition from me so yeah please check it out if you're interested in supporting the channel more thanks very much if we go a bit hard with the uh the enamel wash what we can do is reduce it back with some enamel thinner on a normal paintbrush and we just get some of the thinner on a brush wipe some of the excess works we don't want to flood the model and ruin the lining we've just done but yeah just get it on there and you know push away any excess once we've done that we can see that the model look is is looking looking a lot nicer now a lot more definition in there and those highlights really pop a lot more because obviously we've got the shadows and highlights just realized I missed this little holster here so we're gonna slap some hardwood on that nice it doesn't miss the handle but ah never mind so for some weathering I'm gonna use some rhinox hide here I'm just going to add some little chips to any of the sort of like edges and the way I like to do this is work on the The Edge itself first and then work my way in with some extra little chips going into the area you can do this around the model do whatever you like where everything might be wear and tear on the armor color really uh yeah just work your way around and um have some fun with it you can go really hard if you want to but I like to do it kind of sort of The Next Step we're going to add some Rush streaks to those chipped areas this just adds a bit of an extra Dimension to those chips to say that you know he's been at War for a long time those uh armor plates are rusting and chipping away also the orange goes nicely with the yellow I'm gonna paint the eyes in white as well again using white star no and now we're back to our airbrush so it's been a day or two since the last session you can see with this the hopper of this airbrush it paint does tend to sit around the rim of it rather than flow down into the the where the needle is um so it's kind of annoying but it's a new session anyway so we're going to turn the average on put some cleaner through it to lubricate everything up and then we're going to thin down some more white paint um similar to the last time so we'll put some cleaner in there I'm going to add some white in there um this is the matte white from Mig again um and foreign we're going to paint a basically a halo around the plasma coil so just really carefully really small finger movements just to get that white to um sort of like a really thin hose of it or not even a coat just like this halo effect around where the the glow is you can see already on the camera it's making it look like it's it's a light you know it's a light source so that's what we're trying to get with this um we can do it around the gun I'm going to do some on the chest behind the gun as well and if it hits some of the shoulder pads and the face then that's fine for the glow we're going to use arithmetic blue which is really nice turquoise color and this is a contrast paint again so we're going to be doing the same things we're going to be filtering over all the white that we've just done but you don't want to go really hard you want to kind of leave that white why not leave it but you want to just give it a really faint filter to give it like a blue tinge and what I try to do as well is leave the the center of the top part of the coil showing as white because this side cut like helps to sell the glow effect as well you want to hit all of the Halo areas that you've just done with the white with the arithmetic blue because that's going to change those into obviously the blue color that we want and also because you're aiming to cover all of those you will naturally end up covering some of the areas outside of where you hit the Halo and that's going to sell this blue glow effect more probably tell it looks really really bright and you know well like a light source on our screen here I'm just using very small finger movements here just to to get the paint where we want it to be for the base yeah we're just using some texture paste and some different enamels on there overall I think this airbrush is um is really good so if you haven't got the money or the space for a full airbrush compressor and you know all like the whole setup which you know that basically you're looking at 100 quid Plus for a starting setup if you haven't got that all the space to to you know get one you could use one of these USB airbrushes and I've shown in this video that you can get some pretty nice results just from you know one of these really cheap airbrushes I think you know there are drawbacks to it the build quality is not great I don't know how long it will last and the pressure isn't ideal because you haven't you're not able to adjust it but overall I think these are great pieces of Kit and um if you want to just dabble in the airbrushing I think these are ideal thank you for watching the video everyone it's uh it's really fun one to make something like this a little bit different to my usual uh you know how to paint videos um while still showing you how to paint something um if you did enjoy it please let me know in the comments below um and like the video and subscribe to the channel it really helps also as I said before if you do want to support the video even support the channel even further there's my patreon where there's lots of different rewards and things like that that you can get on um and yeah I just want to say thank you very much everyone for watching and we'll see you next time thanks very much

Channel: Spen's Painting

Views: 78,297

Keywords: warhammer, airbrush, painting, osl, glow effect, plasma glow

Id: 86YLBNYnezQ

Length: 17min 39sec (1059 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 02 2023