World's First SCREW-BIKE

[Music] [Applause] [Music] do you remember when I made a bicycle with an omni wheel on the front wheel it baled like a Segway sideways but you could still ride it like a normal bike because the front wheel had lots of skateboard wheels all around it so it would kind of slide along sideways a while later I moved on and tried to make a bike with two Omni Wheels instead of building the electronics myself though I took the guts out of a hoverboard including the motors I tried to Velocity match the original Wheels with the new larger Wheels using belt drives which kind of worked okay but then the only way to propel it was with edfs blowing it along which wasn't very successful as soon as I'd assembled that version I realized it would have been better to have made mechum wheels which have the little wheels slanted all around them these are typically used on the four corners of a robot so it can move in any direction but I wanted to put them all in a line so the bike still balances sideways but it can screw itself along I actually found a YouTube video from Matthew Watson where this method was used to drive a small robot I believe this was a PhD project and it works very well indeed I can't find any other versions of this type of locomotion and I certainly can't find any versions that are B enough to ride on so yeah you can buy mechum wheels off the shelf but the biggest I can find is 254 mm in diameter which is really small and they're really expensive like 7800 and I already made two massive Omni Wheels so I guess I'm going to have to make four massive mechum Wheels yes of course I'm going to 3D print most of the parts I'm building a scaled up version of my mechum wheels from the smaller robot I showed earlier each wheel is going to be around 360 mm in diameter and it'll have 12 little wheels around its circumference so I need 48 little wheels in total just a quick add from my 3D printing sponsor thanks to lsot for supporting my Channel with 3D printers I'm printing the tires in 95 a TPU from 3D Fuel and the wheel hubs in 3D fuel proa plus you can now get 10% off 3D fuel products with my special code and I'll get a small commission [Music] too [Music] there's also 96 wedges to be made to put on each end of the axles to hold the wheels at a slant but I'll save you the footage of printing every single one of them I printed the TPU Wheels with a 1.2 mm nozzle on LSB printers and they're incredibly tough and that means it's very very hard to push the hubs in so it's time for the hydraulic press [Music] [Applause] [Music] thanks to Simply bearings for the bearings for this project I've got 96 skate sized bearings for each end of the 48 Wheels as well as of course some bigger bearings for the actual big wheels themselves so we need to make some wheel hubs to mount all this on so as usual I'm going to use some plywood CN seed out so we've got some holes here being drilled in a massive Circle and that's so we can attach all of those wedges around and we also need some more holes to go and align all of the parts together with a hub in the middle and make sure those wheels are in the right place so we've cut out some circles and I've also got some htd eight profile pulley and one of those is going to drive each wheel so I've painted all of those black with some automotive spray paint and you notice there's some very shiny sections on there and that's actually masking tape which I've put over where the four holes are to mount each of the wedges and that's so I can glue those on and there's something to stick to other than paint so I've got some solvent-based adhesive to stick each of those on and I'm also going to screw those on as well so basically those never ever come off because I'm going to be sitting on this and that leaves us with a piece of round Wood with 12 wedges glued and screwed to it on the other side we've got the ht8 pulley and I've also made a thin plywood retainer so the Belt doesn't fall off and that's going to be used to drive the wheel this Hub fits onto a 3D printed part which is printed with a 1. 2 mm nozzle so that's a really tough 3D printed Hub and I've got bolts that go all the way through which are a pretty tight fit we'll just knock all of those in and eventually that will hold the other side on as well for now we need to get all the wheels in so we've got these 8 mm pieces of stainless steel rod which go into those wedges all the way around to get the spacing right I've got a couple of nylon washers and then we can put all of the little wheels on with their bearings all the way around followed by another two nylon washers on the top of every one that just makes it perfectly spaced so they don't move we've got another set of 12 wedges which go all the way around there and then you can probably guessed that with those bolts sticking out we're going to stick another plywood Hub on top of that and then we're going to glue and screw all of those wedges to it on the other side and that makes the complete wheel I did turn the bolts around those so that the piece is sticking out with the nuts on her in the nice recess that I left we need to fiz a bearing in each end of the wheel but the Hub was printed with a massive nozzle so I printed another piece with a finer nozzle a half mm nozzle that makes it much easier to tolerance and we can reprint that part if we need to without reprinting the whole Hub so that we can fit the bearings in nice and tightly and those have got 20 mm internal diameters I've made four of those in total and you'll notice I remember to make opposite pairs so that the wheels go in opposing directions so they can screw against each other to travel in the same direction otherwise balancing is going to be really hard so what we need to do now is put them all on a chassis and put some Motors on it's chassis [Music] time [Music] [Applause] [Music] so that's my main chassis and these four pieces sticking up as I hold the four Motors so actually the wheels go below this and this weird saddle thing here is where we're going to put foot pegs so we need to put the wheels on this piece of bright steel bar which is hung below that and we need to make it all [Music] adjustable so I've got some 20 mm Rose joints with the 20 mm thread to match the studing and 20 mm holes in to match my axle and all of these are going to go through that chassis crossbar and be bolted on so that we can adjust the height of them and we can get that axle through perfectly all through all of them threading the eye of the needle every time and then we can get all the wheels aligned and spaced correctly so now it's time to put the wheels on which is a bit of an ordeal that 20 mm bright steel bars quite tightly toleranced for the bearings I can do it but it's going to take me quite some time to push it through and push all the wheels on not forgetting of course to put the drive belts on first otherwise I'll never be able to get them [Music] on there's a color clamp on the end and there'll be more of those along the axle to brace the axle against the rose joints throughout the length of the bike so now all my wheels are all perfectly in line and they all run fine and I've done up all the nuts on that studing so that we get everything at the right height so that the belts can mesh with the motor drives so we do need some spacers um at the moment those can slide up and down but we need to align them perfectly with the motors you might have noticed I actually put the wheels on in the wrong order so I had to take them all off and do it again but even without spaces there if I slide this up and down lengthways we can see those wheels turning against each other just like my little animation so I'm very happy with how the alignment's gone so far it's time for some motors do you remember the video I did with Colin Furs where I built a version of his rhino tank and he helped me test it yeah that's what we was made for go through the mud well I'm using the same Motors and drivers from that project these are o drive 100 KV brushless motors with an O Drive S1 on the back of them there's a magnet on the motor and an encoder on the board so the position and velocity or Torque can be accurately controlled this is a really neat unit and I built a two-stage belt reducer for the tank this time we're going to need a bit more velocity though so I've doubled the size of the output pulley that drives the wheels the motor and reduced assembly fit onto the risers I made on top of the main chassis crossbar and the belts attenion with blocks underneath each assembly I made a quick stand out of steel for it so I can lean it up and work on it upright and I've also fitted the top of the chassis on and that's going to hold the handlebars the saddle and the electronics and that is a bolted on piece so that I can take it off to get to those motor assemblies if I need to in the last domy bike I made a steering assembly which basically would lean sideways as well as rotating and that's what I used to control all of the axes however there was nothing solid to hang on to so that was a bit of a mistake in the end and resulted in me crashing so this time I've just made the handlebars which are completely fixed and don't turn at all I found this saddle on Amazon which fits just right so I'm pretty happy of the way it's looking it's quite retro right it's going to be one of the best things I've ever made if it works but we need to put some Electronics in and get the motors powered up and see what happens but before we carry on assembling that it's time for a quick add from the video sponsor which is ODU Odo is an all-in-one management tool that provides entrepreneurs with a wide range of web-based applications to simplify the management of their business the first ODU application is free for life with unlimited hosting and support they also offer a free personalized domain name for one year once you have two or more applications you'll switch to a paid plan the OD website builder application is a powerful tool for creating a website quickly easily efficiently free of charge the website configurator guides you through defining your goals choosing the color palette and inserting your logo adding pages and features and choosing your theme once the structure is in place you can start customizing simply drag and drop blocks to customize your website you can customize each block adding content including images text video documents and functionalities like animations on blocks and images changing typography colors and image shapes the grid lets you easily lay out and organize your content blocks AI generated text is available in ODU to populate any sections I quickly put together a website about this project and you can try out ODU Now by visiting the link in the video description right let's get on with the screw bike mechum wheel Omni directional Co linear drive bike project so I've made an Electronics enclosure and in there we've got a Tec 4.1 we've got a spark fun b86 IMU and we've got the canbus transceiver to control all the O drives on top I've got a battery monitor an LED strip which is actually at the moment visualizing the IMU data I've also got various knobs on there so we've got a trim control which is for the inertial measurement unit data and I've also got a switch to initialize the O drives and I've got a volume control we'll talk about later I've got connectors coming out including the canbas USB power the 48volt power so it can monitor the battery and some connector to go to the handlebars for all of the switches I've made a battery box which holds four 6s lipo and we're going to put those in series and then pairs in parallel so we basically get nearly 50 volts out of that there's a 200 amp contactor on the top of there and that's going to be linked to the e stop on The Handlebar so that I can actually cut the power off if I need to the electronic sit right in front of the saddle there so they're nice and accessible to control yes that's a USB boost pank powering them nice and professional the gray cable is can bus that's daisy chain between all of the O drives to control them and all those batteries sit at the back and yes I do have a cover there to cover the dodgy bolts which has got 50 volts on I've built quite a few balancing robots in the past there's a playlist in my channel just for balancing projects that use various means to make unstable things stable the main thing that makes balancing robots work is a p ID controller this takes the angle data from the inertial measurement unit it controls the wheel velocities appropriately the proportional term simply means that the wheels go faster if the angle is greater but this isn't sufficient to make the device balance properly the most important part is the integrator the output of the integrator is the area under the graph so if the angle is constant as time goes on then the output increases as this area increases over time if the angle is increasing then the output gets bigger exponentially so the integrator makes the wheel velocity accelerate to catch the robot as it falls over which happens constantly the derivative term is the tangent of the curve of the angle data so this makes a short sharp velocity movement to damp any overshoot all three terms need to be tuned for the mass and power of the robot which is a bit like focusing a camera with three lenses but typically the highest value is the integral term and the smallest is the derivative however if the device is left at an angle without the motors powered on then the integral term tends to accumulate a large value and when it's finally time to balance then it makes the robot suddenly kick until it's stable this was an issue with the first Omni bike so this time I've got a control so I can slowly turn up the output which makes it less likely to break my ankles when I power it up the button initializes the O drives and now I can slowly ramp up the output of the P ID controller to make things balance without it kicking so much it was pretty easy to tune up but bigger heavier robots tend to thrash around less because they've got more inertia so it's much easier to tune the P ID controller to make them balance right let's put the saddle on I have in fact tuned this up to have a person on rather than no person so this should be working pretty well and I'm pretty happy of how well it's working is almost as good as a Segway oh yeah this is really good this is so much better than the last one made of a hacked hoverboard mainly cuz I couldn't retune those P parameters on the hoverboard so even just a slight bit of uh mass shift causes this thing to travel which is good it's almost as good as a Segway I've definitely got enough velocity for balancing there but what we need to do now is try and screw it along by moving those Wheels in opposite directions and if that works then this is going to be pretty cool so I've got a Twist grip on the right hand side which moves in one Direction and I've also got a toggle switch so that I can drive in forward or reverse and all that's going to do is make the wheels turn in opposite directions to screw itself along and transpose that value over the balancing value right let's try and uh go forwards oh it works oh yeah this is brilliant this is brilliant oh yes way I think we might be slipping slightly on the smooth floor but this feels amazing rotating is controlled by another twist grip ideally I want a Twist grip that rotates forwards and backwards so I can turn left and right but I couldn't find one that does that so I've just got another Direction switch and we'll see how that goes I did think about having foot switches for steering but I thought probably this is going to fall over at some point and they'll get buckled or broken if they're attached to the foot pegs so I decided handlebar controls were best now of course the wheels are different distance is from the center and that means that they need to rotate at different velocities so that we can rotate around the center point basically one circumference is bigger than the other so the outside Wheels need to go faster we need to take that into account right let's see where rotating gets us oh oh oh oh I think I want my mass in the middle since that's where the rotation point is yeah that seems to be that seems to be pretty cool who wo W wo whoa who that's feels amazing right we need a bigger space to test it than this though cuz there isn't really space in my kitchen [Music] [Music] oh [Applause] [Music] oh [Music] [Applause] [Music] this is amazing it's one of the best things I've ever built [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] is [Music] oh [Music] and yes the headlamp does work for those of you who celebrate this whole project is going to be open source as all of my projects are so all the cad code is going to be published on GitHub if you want to build your own or use any aspects of it for your own projects if you'd like to support me for a YouTube channel membership or patreon then patrons and YouTube channel members get access to all the videos up to a week early and sneak peeks and pictures of what's coming up plus Discord benefits and speaking of Open Source I'm going to be at open source 2024 which is June the 15th to the 16th in San Francisco but it's a different type of source apparently or something anyway there's going to be 150 YouTube content creators and 500 Community exhibits but they're looking for more exhibits and you can apply now on the open source website open source.com and if you're successful and they accept your exhibit then you get in for free and you get access to the exclusive Friday night kickoff party which I'll be at along with all the other YouTubers hopefully so check that out now

Channel: James Bruton

Views: 1,929,446

Keywords: Experimental Star Wars Speeder Bike, Can I RIDE THIS BIKE?, omniwheels omni-wheel, omni wheeled bike, strange bike, experimental bicycle, electric bike, build an electric bike, experimental electric bike, omniwheeled bike, 3d printed bike, experimental robot, 3d printed robotics, omni wheeled robot, build an omni wheeled robot, arduino project, balancing robot, balancing arduino robot, floating bike, speeder bike

Id: nfna15r4EXM

Length: 23min 4sec (1384 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 16 2024