Woodturning - Maple Burl Pieces With Designer Epoxy

happy friday as you see by the thumbnail it's another risen project this week um these are actually pieces from processing burls um rough turning so you always cut them off of the bandsaw and then i've got these barrel pieces laying around that unfortunately in the past have been mostly firewood um just didn't have any um anything that i could do with them but now that i'm doing resin i certainly can so yeah i just want to make them um the same size as the bucket and of course removing all the bark it's important as well i like to use a flat tip screwdriver it doesn't dig in as badly when you're getting rid of the spark a little brass brush that goes in my drill does a good job cleaning up the rest of it mixing up the resin again going with designer epoxy so this is a glow-in-the-dark pigment nuclear green and uh they wanted i when i was talking to designer epoxy they said one gram per ounce so that's what i mixed it up as and i'm just applying it to all the surfaces so yeah this will do a couple of things it'll seal the burls up so that we don't get any um bubbles raising rising through the resin and hopefully it will make them glow as well and i mixed up a little bit too much so then i just threw it in these um silicone molds yeah so it's the next day uh the finishes are sorry the um the epoxy isn't totally cured on the roll pieces so that's good and i'm using hot melt glue to hold them down and place in the bottom of the bucket that way they don't float and that's just a little spacer block to just take up some space within the uh the casting itself yeah so uh mix up some resin here again it's a two to one ratio a to b so that's 48 ounces it's probably going to take more than that but i figured i'd start there first yeah so i want to try the emerald green and i'm just going to tint it enough just to give it a greenish color i don't want to make this kind of a solid color so again this is all unknown to me so i'm just gonna you know i said i'd get a proper measuring device but uh well i didn't and we'll start with that see what that looks like so as you can see i'm going with the pearl again there i think i like that so anyway i'll pour this in the bucket and see if it's enough or if i need to mix more but i fully anticipate mixing more i guess that's one of the great things about this uh this epoxy or this resin is it has a really long open time so uh you know i'm not in a huge paddock to get this measured out get it in the pressure pot another 48 ounces it is here's another 48. there that's a good level of resin um hopefully nothing floats other than that i'll get something to put on i'll put something on that keep down well my rock fell over oh good it's not stuck to the resin that's good i think we got it let's take it out okay so now if you recall i didn't put any resin um release agent in here uh that's partly because i was trying to stick them so they wouldn't move around so i don't know what this is going to be like to get out could be another marathon session this was a brand new bucket and what i did was i cut it down so it would fit in the pressure pot and then i put the handle back on it so that's easy to get in and out it was also suggested not to use a metal hammer on this getting it out so this is a rubber hammer well hey that was easier let's see we got oh crap you think we'll slide out past these it's not really that big of a deal to take this off i'll just put it back on afterwards i just find when i'm trying to set this down on the pressure pot it's it's quite slippery and um i really like the fact that i could pull it out with the handle now last week that was an old bucket and i'm assuming that's probably why it's stuck so bad even with the mold release well air pockets that's all right i mean i'm going to be turning that away anyway so that's not a real huge deal they're all grind the rest of that off and i know i hear you this is an old chisel and i shouldn't use a metal on metal and you're like how come you haven't got it turned mallet it's on the list of things to make can't wait to turn this actually these are not air pockets this is the hot melt glue that i used to hold these in place i forgot about that so yeah here i am lining it up between centers just trying to balance it out again i'm going back with the 5 8 david ellsworth gouge um i just love this gouge and oddly enough this time around it seemed to be cutting the resin better and i think that's probably because the resin uh wasn't uh as hard as it was last time last time i was getting a lot of fracturing this time it was coming off in nice streams so it was actually kind of a joy to turn compared to the the resin last week anyway i'm just trying to get down past the resin and into the wood and then see what we have push cuts pull cuts trying to define the bottom now yeah big difference between last week's uh resin and this week and i think what it is it sat an extra two days in the heat before i used it um last week and um that's probably why it wasn't so hard this week because i used it literally uh 36 hours after it was ready and again that's the easy woods uh easy wood finisher which is doing a really good job of eliminating any tear out now if you've never turned resin um it is staticky and i had so many issues with it sticking to the camera and sticking to me i had to stop all the time to to get the uh the resin off of the camera very staticky yeah just cleaning off what's going to be the top side of the bowl i wanted to get things as balanced as possible before i went on to the next stage so i decided to use my hot milk glue uh waste block method so i kind of made a custom size one a little larger than normal um probably wasn't needed but i decided to do it anyway cutting grooves in there for extra place for the hot malt glue to sit and as long as you get it lined up perfectly you won't have too much cleanup on the other end it was out of balance a little bit but it wasn't really that big of a deal back with the finisher sheer scraping again i talked about that last week with the resin yeah so this is only my second resin bowl so and i mean it's not even a full resin piece but my observation so far is that uh the way that the last two bowls that i made anyway i've used the 5 8 bowl gouge as basically the roughing gouge and then switched to the um easy wood finisher to finish get you know just that really nice uh fine cut with that carbide cutter that's on it and yeah if you're a turner and you haven't turned the stuff it certainly is a little harder to turn than normal wood this is maple burl and it's hard maple burl so you know it's not very fun to turn anyway with the resin it certainly complicates it even more yes just working my way into the bowl here that spacer that i put in there that's now all turned away and gone little pole cut just trying to use up all the the edges on the gouge and you know this is burl anyway so you know it's not uncommon to use scrapers for uh on burrows anyway and essentially when you do a pole cut like that that's what you're doing it's a scraping cut again constantly cleaning off the camera here i am with the uh the finisher just gentle cuts and if you go really easy with it you know it'll do a really good job if you're too aggressive with it though it's not going to be good okay so last week first of all what do you think that's pretty darn cool i think anyway last week when i did my first resin bowl i had to fill a few spots here in the resin but you know what there's literally nothing to fill in the resin itself the burl does have some little holes and what i'm going to do is hit it with the stair bond thin and again there's a link in the description for 10 off your next order and of course i'll be using the accelerator so that we can move around this and get it done so yeah i mean um pretty solid burl okay and again if you haven't uh turned much burl or even if you're you know you're not a woodturner or a woodworker and you follow my channel just to watch me make things burls it's very common for girls to have voids in them and this here is actually hard maple burl so it is actually very hard it's like turning concrete so hard sometimes anyway i'll just go around fill in any of these little holes put this back on the lathe screw it up and then we'll start sanding it there we go all done and again i just can't get over how impressed i am with this resin how there's no bubbles in it yes so back on the lathe uh using the um the finisher again just cleaning up any glue residue that's left over from filling any voids i just find it's best to do this before you move the sandpaper okay on to sanding i'm starting with 60 grit and um i filled a couple more spots here on the bowl so i'm just kind of cleaning off that ca glue before i start before i actually start sanding and i'm using three and a half inch dimple discs from sandpaper.ca and you know i each grit i alternate the direction of lathe and direction of the drill and it'll give you a really good surface back side i'm using my right angle air powered sander i couldn't get the drill in there to do that so this is a good tool for that yeah so here i'm inspecting my work and you know i'm reasonably happy with the results i'm getting a little bit of swirl marks in there but you know it's still um we're still at very low grits here yeah so i'm just progressing through the grits here until i get to 400. use the minwax sanding sealer i did order the myelin stuff but it's uh not going to be an end time so this will have to do so yeah hopefully after uh lunch this will be good to go i don't want it on too heavy and anyway hopefully that will give the wood some protection before we wet sand all right so what i'm going to use this is actually 600 so i'm going to start sanding wet sanding and i realize that this isn't you know a wet dry sandpaper but you know it'll work having a bit of issues down here in the transition area look back here and i just found when i was trying to dry sand i that it just wasn't working for me i was leaving all kinds of scratches behind having a hard time holding on to sandpaper too and i was actually going to make some ob shine juice but it's sold out just about everywhere i do have a four pound cut of really old shellac and i did mix it up but instead of being you know yellowy or maybe even a little orangey it's actually brown so i don't think it's any good yeah my intention is to go to a thousand here i think i'm going to go back to the wood bowl finish the response last week to my first resin bowl has been absolutely fantastic thank you so much for uh helping me out with that uh a lot of people seem to think that it was my saying that the um there were still streaks kind of in the resin and that's why it was showing through the the uh the wood bowl finish so you know what i'm gonna go back to it and let's see what happens this time i will make sure that this is good and dry before i put any other finish on this and of course if this was just a big block of resin well hey i'd have no problems with sanding the whole thing and then put the finish over it but with the wood of course it's an issue i might even try putting this on my drill and going slow what do you think you should try that get in there let's try this let's check it out you're like oh no we ruined it i can see some swirl marks in there it's not bad i can still see some though go back to hand sanding and yeah i know that typically you're gonna wet sand wood and resin um you know when you've got four or five six seven eight coats of shellac on or something like that but i'm hoping this will work too yeah that doesn't look too bad yeah i did order some yorkshire grit abrasive paste but again it's not here yet so you know once i once i had done a thousand then i'd probably do the abrasive paste and then move on to finishing i'm just trying to use a rag here to warm this up some of the moisture out of the wood i certainly can't see anything on the wood and so you know if i put that wood bowl finish on there and i get that streaking again you know if it doesn't streak on the wood and it only streaks on the resin then i'm going to say that it's an issue with the finish and the resin regardless i think it's going to be good yeah just for insurance sake i figured i'd get out my heat gun and now keep the surface of the bowl of course being careful not to get too close to the resin i don't know if it would do anything to it but i wasn't going to take any chances okay we're going with the wood bowl finish let's see what happens yeah i can see the wood's gonna need more than one coat that's for sure well that looks pretty darn clear look at that i am happy with that now let's just hope that that finish doesn't go all streaky okay so here's where we're at now if you watched my video last week i really complained about these streaks in here and you know um last week was a lot worse than it is today so that tells me that in all likelihood it's my um my surface prep that's probably what it is so i'm kind of at a crossroads i don't know if i should go with four old steel wool to smooth this out before i put the next coat on or do i maybe use 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper before the next coat so yeah i don't know i haven't got that figured out yet okay so what i think i'm gonna do is just go with uh 2000 um you can get this at sandpaper.ca as well there'll be a link in this description below for 10 off so i'm not going to use any um any lubricant i'm just going to do a dry and hopefully it's good okay so with the 200 or sorry with the 2000 grit sandpaper um it's very hard to get the sheet paper down in this transition here this is a tough transition area for sanding so you know it was leaving a lot of rough behind so i used uh 40 steel wool and it cleaned up nicely um if that was if i was using that 2000 grit sandpaper wet it certainly would probably give me a better result but you know what i'm i'm happy with that i think when the next coat of finish goes on there hopefully we won't be seeing any streaking at all okay so my curiosity's getting the better of me this is a beeswax mineral oil combination that i make and i'm actually going to put it on the surface here and put some inside of 4-0 steel wool and see what kind of a finish that gives me so that's what i'm doing here now if you're wondering so the plan is i'll do this and then i'll wipe it off clean and before i put the next coat of finish on i'll make sure i use denatured alcohol to strip off any of the the wax and or the mineral oil that's left on the surface in theory that is looks pretty darn good to me we just might have our uh our new way of finishing things i don't know maybe people are already doing this okay so i went back and did the inside with the furrow steel wool and my beeswax mineral oil combo this is uh another coat of the wood bowl finish by general finishes well again it looks perfect so what i did last actually last night was i put another coat just on the wood alone to seal it so that we could hopefully uh be done this today was sure is clear even with the little bits of pearl i love it i did find a bubble see it there i never noticed it until i had uh the finish on it but anyway that's okay uh as far as i'm concerned that's still a win okay so the finish is cured uh i'm happy with what i've got but you know what overall it's it's it's uh it's a lot better than it was last week so this was suggested by one of my subscribers jp so i'm going to give this a go um the instructions are actually kind of vague on it really anyway i'll just um put it on with a brush and then wipe off the excess and then i'll turn up the lathe speed and see what happens it's definitely smoother that's for sure silky smooth now i'm not this is not going to be used for food so i'm not really i don't really care if it's a food safe finish or not that goes on here if you're wondering anyway let's get this cut off and get the bottom done so we can finish this video up yeah so if you're new to my videos what i'm using here to finish the bottom of the bowl is a vacuum chuck uh it's made by one-way manufacturing and uh you know what if you do any amount of bowls i highly recommend getting one it's not cheap um i don't even know what they cost now my this one here is probably about uh nine years old but well worth the uh the money to get fast again sanding from 180 to 800 just a little bit of hand sanding to finish it off this bowl will get two coats of finish on the very bottom of it all right let's do a final talk about it well that's it we're all done i just got one more coat of finish to go on the very bottom of this and then i'm sure my wife will claim this um again this is maple burl with um nuclear green um pigment glow-in-the-dark pigment and then emerald green with some pearl in it in designer epoxy uh if i think about it i'll put the links down i'll put it in the links down below um so the idea with this was i was gonna paint on that glow-in-the-dark pigment and it would illuminate all around here and then make the whole bowl itself glow didn't work i took it into a room here that's dark and there's nothing ironically the only spot that actually is working there's one air pocket in there and it's right in there hopefully you can see that right here so the pigment is below that hair bubble and it must be so close to the surface that it's getting enough to work anyway um it's not what i was going for still this is a fantastic bowl and uh i'll do this again next time maybe it may be the the smart thing to do is just put it in the resin i just didn't want this huge glowing mass so i can probably tone that down i can with the amount of pigment that i put in the resin so anyway welcome back to this one day still i think this is an absolutely fantastic bowl especially for my second one uh again these are burl cut offs from normal burl processing that i have um and unfortunately i really didn't have any way of saving these pieces uh i'm not in the business of making blanks um i need to get on with production so you know i've only got so much space to suck to store so much wood so unfortunately a lot of these are firewood so now in the future i'll be i'll be certainly holding on to the majority of the really nice ones and then maybe i'll make a few uh bowls of this and so speaking of this is this a commercially viable thing uh it'd be tough uh i'll be honest with you that a bowl like this and this is nine by three and a half i would have to charge at least four hundred dollars for and that's canadian of course and you know possibly even more than that there's probably three times the work in this than there is in a normal bowl and then on top of that the resin of course is expensive as well so it's kind of one of those things i'll get better and i'll get faster as i do them so you know maybe it is a doable thing we'll have to see um so yeah that's it hopefully you enjoyed that uh and you know a lot of this the reason why this works so much better this week is because of my subscribers there's a lot of great comments come in about what i should try and not do and and all that stuff and that was great thank you so much uh that um 4-0 steel wool and the beeswax and mineral combination that i used after the 2000 grit work great and i'm going to revisit that again i don't know if anybody else is doing that and it just kind of shows you a glimpse into my brain that you know i'm always trying to try something to make it better make it faster make it better and i just thought i'd give it a try and really there's no harm in trying that worse in case i'd have to just sand it off and redo it all again so it's not that big of a deal uh just make sure you remove any wax before you put any finish over top that's all so yeah thank you so much for that and again our 15 000 subscriber giveaway bowl walnut with copper pipe and muscle shells once i hit 15 000 subscribers i'll mail this off worldwide after we draw a name um and the other thing too that i want to ask you do you guys want me to do a shop tour um do you want um a question and answer video i get a ton of questions the main one being why does the picture look backwards and of course if you're right-handed it would look backwards to you i'm left-handed and i work on the outboard end of my lathe on left-hand threads so that's why it looks that way i get asked that all the time so anyway if you want me to do a question and answer thing on on anything well turning related to my channel um no problem there i can do shop tour just let me know in the comments down below if you uh if you want to do that and along with that in the description don't forget about the links to starbond sandpaper.ca and all the other links uh for products that i use here in the shop so that's it hopefully you enjoyed it um i for me it's a whole new avenue of ideas and thinking and you know the the natural inlays to me still are fantastic and that that's been the bulk of my business over the years this opens up just a whole other aspect of that and maybe i'll be able to combine the two of them you know who knows where it's going to go but anyway and i haven't you've thought about it next week's project because i've been trying to get this done in other production work so uh but anyway come back next week i'm sure i'll try and do something uh something nice for anyway but until then take care stay safe and we'll see you next week and don't forget that bell you know when i put up a new video see ya you

Channel: Sprague Woodturning

Views: 244,991

Rating: 4.8898506 out of 5

Keywords: Designer Epoxy, resin, maple burl, petawawa, made in canada, woodturning, wood turning, pressure pot, resin casting, sprague woodturning

Id: UdnlRRTz4Fc

Length: 41min 55sec (2515 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 04 2020