Woodturning - 95,000 Subscribers, Wow!

or what he's different from spread wood turning this week we're going to return to some of this awesome box little Burl combine it with some really cool designer epoxy to make our first cheese board with a custom tile and a knife hope you enjoy it so for the 95 000 subscriber giveaway what I thought we would do is cast some more of this fantastic box elder Burl here this is going to be a knife handle and I'll explain that in a second and of course three beautiful fantastic pieces of boxelder burl so what I want to do is make a cheese knife board set so a friend of mine who's a Potter years ago made these tiles for me and this is something you can do to support your local Artisans you woodturners if you're looking for tiles for cheese boards just go to uh a Potter that you uh that you know and like and get them to make these tiles and then you can you can lay them in your work so it's kind of a collaboration and along with that here's the knife I got this years ago from crop supplies USA um I'm assuming they still sell them so this is rather large for that but what I'm going to do is cast this and then split it down the center and then half it again and then you've got four knife blanks for the future and we'll put three of these together some sort of orientation such as this and then we're going to use some blue Laguna fan favorite and what I'm going to do is add a little bit of pearl white with it to lighten it up so that it matches this color perfectly and then we're gonna pour white as well with it so we're going to try and get some white veining throughout this piece because we're going to use aircast all right well that's it for that let's uh get these laid out get them on the bandsaw and uh we'll figure out how much resin we need after that foreign something like that uh really trying to avoid any of these Street pieces I think that we may be okay though all right let's go to the bandsaw cut these in some of you may have noticed from the thumbnail that the tile itself is different I end up missing the color match on this and that tile after I looked at it a second time looked more purpley than blue so I should have you know gone in that direction uh regardless I think it's a beautiful tile that we that we got out of this and I think that it matches the uh the set very well so after getting these cut then we got to clean up the edge here that's just a brass brush that's mounted on my lathe in a Jacob's Chuck it does a great job cleaning up all those little spiky areas now the one thing that I don't want to see in this project is any straight lines and so all I'm doing here is just kind of rounding this over and that way it doesn't there's not a straight hard line left over of course that brush that's mounted on the lathe can't reach into all these little areas so you'll see me use a pick tool a couple of different press brushes and it's important to get rid of any of the bark that you see in here and the main reason for that because reason art cost and this resin is going to set up very quickly so it's not going to really penetrate through the bark and hold it in place so it is important to really as far as I'm concerned get rid of any forecasting just working on a little bit of layout that piece actually broke off um I can't remember how that broke off anyway it broke off and using the race method again you'll see later on that it I pretty much get the perfect amount of resin so if you're having some issues pouring out the right amount of resin switch to this method uh just make sure you get rid of all of it so that it doesn't end up in your final piece like that one little speck that I had in the um the Laughing faces Holo form uh it's not the end of the world but I prefer certainly not to have it in any of my castings that's for sure all right that is a liter in half give me a second so this has pointed out to me last time I did this we want to add 40 percent so instead of doing the number and then times 40 percent uh you've got 1.5 1.5 times 1.4 and that gives you 2.1 that's the level of resin that you're going to need um I'll have to figure out exactly what's going to be best for that because I'm not sure measuring it out of the cups is going to work for us for that number but I'll try and get it as close as possible as I can right before I mix the resin up I we should get these glued in place so that we're ready uh I was going to use some Stoner mold release but with all these pieces breaking apart I guess I'll just glue them in place and all the people all the time say Jim doesn't use mold release why don't you use mold release and the reason for that is because if I sprayed mold release in here that I'm not going to be able to basically glue these down and make sure that they're not going to move I would sooner fight with these getting them out of the the bucket or the container the casting bucket then have it move around and ruin the project so that's why I don't like to use the mold release unless I can put it's a big piece of wood and I can just put a rock on it to hold it in place and it's not going to move around and cause any urtic of course another option is to spray the mold release and then clean off the areas that you want to glue down but you know for me it's just not worth the risk if if you don't get that mold release cleaned off there before you glue these pieces down then you know there is a chance that it's going to move and if it moves and something like this would totally if one of those pieces moved inwards would ruin this project so that's why I like to do it the way that I'm doing here the knife blank was a little bit shorter and not as wide as the container so I thought that I would glue it in place as well as opposed to putting a weight on it this week we're going to use the art cast I need that color separation I can get that with deepcast but I was kind of short on time like I usually am and that's why I went in this direction this is a one to one so as far as measuring is concerned it's really not that big of a deal what I was seeing earlier I was trying to figure out how much white resin that I wanted inside of the casting to go with a blue Laguna so that's why I was having some issues with what am I going to do with 2.1 liters of resin I absolutely love the color that we got on this piece along with the white that's combined with it but the color was off just enough with the original tile that I showed at the beginning of this video where I'm like you know I don't really care for this and anyway it's a trying to color match stuff like this I find is is a bit of a challenge but in the end the towel that I've selected is great tile tube foreign you know I think it looked better uh darker if anything I think I'm going to throw another little spoonful of the blue Laguna back in here all right now we just gotta wait get for these to get up to temperature 60 65 degrees and then we'll do the pour I think I will put the uh casting in the pressure pot though so that we don't have to fool around with that afterwards I'll bring you back when that's ready all right we're at 61 or sorry 63.5 degrees so we've got to get moving here put that in after I don't show it on camera but I actually poured a little bit of the blue Laguna into the knife handle blank and then here I am just dump the rest of it back in the casting I was I waited maybe a little too long to pour this so it's kind of like okay we got to get this done and and uh whatever I get on film I get on film uh I thought that I would pour the white onto the pieces of wood and then hopefully have it kind of flow down onto uh where the blue Laguna was sitting that was the goal and then I'm just using a barbecue skewer to just kind of move it around there's the uh there's a knife handle blanket now and uh just dropped a bunch of weight in it too overall very happy with the casting except for one little issue all right got to get the cover on this before it sets [Music] we'll see you guys tomorrow all right well it is the next day so early indications were that things were great and then I took this off the top and there's a big thermal crack right down through the center of it oh so you know it would be too easy to recast this just fill this in but there may be more thermal cracks underneath that we can't see so unfortunately we're gonna have to take this out of here and I believe this blank is okay I don't see any cracks at all in that but again maybe what I'll do is split split it on the bandsaw and then just to make sure that there's no issues in there because we have to recast that as well wouldn't be normal if we weren't having issues come on hmm I might have just cracked the resin here too when I was getting that out it does in fact look like that is the only spot too hmm I don't see any of the spots foreign arily I would say fill this with some gold resin but with this I don't think it's going to look all that great so what I'm going to do is mix up some more Pro Series and I think that I will just tint it the blue color I might add a little bit of white to it and then fill this in and we'll see what it looks like uh if we don't like the look of it tomorrow well I guess we'll recast another one let's take this one apart get it out it's held together with screws doesn't look to be any cracks at all so that's good I'm not even going to cut that open all right so of course the other thing that we got going for us is that this is really gonna probably cover up the majority of that crack anyway but uh just to be safe I'll uh mix up some some more resin and we'll do another pour so I've mixed up eight ounces of art cast it is a lighter tint than what we see so if any of these cracks are visible hopefully they will disappear and the other thing too is I took the casting out and covered the hole in the bottom of this because all of this would have gone straight through there so uh that's done so yeah I'm just going to pull this on here and then I'll throw it back in the pressure pot I never waited any length of time on this either just got done mixing it it's still going down into the crack so hopefully eight ounces will be enough take up I pushed it down as hard as I could and it's so heavy it shouldn't float so that shouldn't be an issue now some of you may be wondering why you just didn't tape off the bottom of this and then tape off the area where I thought it had cracked there were some other spots that I didn't show on the camera that were a little questionable so I said okay I'm going to recast this whole thing and that way hopefully it'll fill in any thermal cracks if there are any more in the end I actually didn't crack that piece it was on top of the wood looks like I need to mix up some more wow all right here's another eight ounces as you can see I've got a couple rocks on here now for some weight this might be a little bit stronger in color but not very much looking back at it now probably what I should have done was run this through my drum sander like we'll see later on and then that way I would have been able to look at all the resonances okay this needs to be fixed here or not uh but you know I just didn't think about it at the time in the end this works for us and that's the important thing all right there finally stopped so what I'm gonna do is throw this in the pressure pot and we'll see you guys tomorrow hopefully this will be it hopefully all right crack's been all filled in uh let's get this out it's free all the way around it wasn't glued there we go yeah cantankerous son of a and I see what happened the resin I didn't bother cocking it the second time and the resin went all the way down and around the edge of this so that's that's what was holding it okay anyway that was easy right man uh we're gonna run this through the drum sander get two flat surfaces and then we'll get a glue block on it here I'm just showing that I ground down all those edges that were sticking up uh this way it tends to cut you less as well the I know that a lot of woodturners don't have access to a drum sander like this but when you're working on flat work like this uh this is my preferred method of doing this once I get this flat I'll be able to throw a glue block on it and then basically go to the lathe and you know basically finish the piece without ever having to re-chuck it or move it to the other side of the lathe so for me uh having the drum sander has certainly been a big addition to my wood turning business so if you're looking at getting one I would highly recommend getting one because of course you'll be able to use it for cutting boards and amongst a lot of other things and the last thing I want to do is just take a belt cleaner and clean up the the Sandpaper that's on the drum that way it's ready to go for the next project now that things are nice and flat here I'm just finding center that way I'll be able to put my glue block on exactly where I want to and you'll see that here in a second so I'm going to drill a small little hole not very deep hardly at all like maybe a sixteenth of an inch and then you'll see me have a one of my all's shoved through the waist block and then of course that'll be dipped in hot malt glue and once that's set you're ready put it on the leaf foreign [Music] I find it very interesting to hear from people that uh you know they're not woodturners and they don't realize how violent it is when you first put a piece of wood on the lathe because it's not going to be perfectly round and in this case I'm basically cutting the rim back until I can get wood exposed all the way around it and I should mention that we're using the Hercules here this is the number three from Hunter tool systems and just like all of the sponsors that you'll see in the video here all the links are in the description down below so if you need some some stuff head down there and put some money back in your pocket the way that I typically do all of my platters and I'll call this a platter because that's essentially what it is with a uh a tile in the center of it I always start on the on the outside edge uh cut it back until I'm happy with that surface and then I'll move to the back side of the platter basically do the profile but probably not the finished finished profile just get it very close and I'll move to the face and then basically you know trim it to where where I'm happy with it and then I'll go back touch up the back side of the platter and then you're usually ready for sand this if I had of cast this in deepcast and the three days to let it all weep in and and harden up a lot of this box out of burl the the problem with this stuff is it's got borderline dry rot but the stuff is so nice there's no way that I've got to do something with this stuff and I'm glad that I can hopefully share it with the world here but I'm already starting to see that's a little Punky in some areas so I know that that's going to be an issue when it comes to sanding so even at this stage I'm saying okay I'm gonna have to basically do a resin penetrating coat so that's going to be coming up but you know it's just this stuff is absolutely fantastic uh for to to be able to get a tree well it's probably about a half a tree that's loaded with this much box elder Burl is uh is really really awesome and I really hope whoever wins this is appreciative of that because it is a beautiful wood it truly is a normal thing that I usually do with a lot of these platters that I make is the foot area is really wide that way when people are using the knife to cut you know the cheese up on the cheese tile that you know it's not rocking around so keep that in mind if you want to make uh items like this pretty much all of my platters have really wide bases like this and I think that that's probably the best way to do them just to make them more stable and yeah I'm just seeing more and more of that punky wood and I'm like yeah um I guess I'm gonna have to do yet another reason for uh when things go good they go good we had a really good one last week and I I knew that I was on world time and sure enough here we are this week and I'm seeing that you know this is this thing's fighting me a lot along the way here so before we can do any of that resin work I figured it was best to get it down to it's almost thickness that I want to use and then that way hopefully when we do the resin penetrating coat that it actually will go completely through the piece and uh you won't have any more issues with sanding in the future because if you don't tackle this when you rub your hand across this platter you're going to feel nothing but lumps and bumps even after the resin penetrating coat there's a little bit of it but not much at all it's actually quite nice and there may be some wondering why I didn't stabilize these pieces and that certainly would be an option the only problem with that is cactus juice is not food safe it's not safe for food contact and that's why I did not stabilize these pieces because I figured that these you know this is going to be used for food so that's another consideration another one is using the proper glaze and now I'm not a Potter but I was a member of the artist Co-op here in Deep River and uh I just figured that all glazes were safe for food but they're not so it makes I mean a Potter would know this any powder that's worth their weight would know that what the proper glazes to use if you're using using it for a cheese tile but there there's some there's some glazes out there that are not good for suitable for food contact so make sure that that is also a priority if you get tiles made but they should know foreign there's our first real look at this and you know I'm thinking yeah this is pretty cool just pointing out the crack and how it's not going to be an issue that the tile is actually going to cover it and um it actually Blends in pretty decent too if you hadn't been able to mix a little bit of white in there you may not have ever picked it up so I'm just going to do some final trimming here uh layout this is on the small size for the cheese tile I haven't got the large I haven't got it it's set Dimensions yet I don't see any point in doing that at this stage but what I want to do is take that down and basically expose any of that wood so that it can get some poxy penetration as well because I'm just doing a brush on type epoxy penetration coat I don't know if putting it in the pressure pot would have been any benefit or not I'm sure that this won't be the last time that we deal with this so maybe in the future we'll try that uh but I just I didn't really see the sense of it because it's not submerged in the epoxy it's just being brushed on so there you go I think it looks really nice islands in the sea too bad that Center part's gonna be covered up the last thing that I want to do here is take some 80 grit and sand the surface uh by sanding the surface you'll open up the pores of the wood and it will accept the the epoxy better uh same with finishes and this kind of business I'm going with the pro series for this Pro Series is nice and thin and it's a two to one resin uh it is a little cloudy but as long as it's under an eighth of an inch in depth it's not an issue and uh just warm it up in a little bit of water just to keep it flowing nice all right so to fill in these Punky areas uh that's what the pro series is for here I've warmed it up in the warm water so it should flow well and hopefully it's going to harden up these Punky areas and I'll be able to get a clean cut on it tomorrow and then of course get a coat of finish on it I don't care if this brush loses any bristles because it's all going to be turned away anyway there's a lot of bristles coming out of this definitely not good for a resin brush to be quite honest with you I was quite surprised at how much resin or sorry epoxy this this wood soaked up I mixed up six ounces thinking it would be lots but wow did it ever drink it up there that's all dry see it more dry spots here anyway I'll just keep doing this until the um the resin starts to set up then I'll be forced to stop but it's looking pretty good but as dry spots develop I'll keep hitting it with the resin and we'll see you tomorrow to give this a funnel trimming and set the uh the cheese tile in place uh the good thing is about this thermal crack is it's not going to affect the look of this at all because it stops ironically it starts on a crack here and here so I don't know if that had anything to do with the fact that it cracked in that spot I find it interesting though since we're stalled on the platter portion of this I figured that we would work on the knife handle so just cutting it to Dimension right now there was no thermal cracking on the inside of this I was a little surprised that the platter cracked as well I think that the main reason it probably did that is because I waited so long so the resin was quite hot before I could get it under pressure it was around an inch so um I'm just I was quite surprised when I did see it cracking but probably waited too long before actually adding the uh adding depression to the pressure pot here I've got the blank mounted in my spigot Jaws on my stronghold from one-way Manufacturing now if you're going to attempt something like this these blanks that have resin and wood in them keep in mind that you're going to have to drive a knife into the end of this so if you orientate it so that on the outer end it's resin and not wood you're going to have a hard time doing that on the other end that went into the Jaws it's it's both but there was enough wood there where I wasn't too concerned about it breaking off but that's something that you really need to consider when you're doing this I've never tried this maybe some have but if you maybe heated up the Tang into the knife before pushing it into the resin maybe that would work and certainly maybe that would even make a a greater bond to the uh to their resin slash wood handle but I find it best to just drive it into the wood and then that way you're not going to have any issues and and try and figure out what's going on so here I'm fitting the furl to go on the end of this uh this pretty much comes with every knife blank that I've got I ended up swapping the one out that I originally showed on camera I didn't really care for the serrated edge on it so this one's a little bit more cheese knife looking where the other one looked more like a like a steak Knife almost so I did that again you gotta you don't want this furl to be loose you want it to be nice and tight still got finished one top of this so that will certainly tighten it up if it's a little loose but you definitely want to make it as as tight as you can so for the knife handle we're dealing with the same sort of stuff it's just really kind of soft so for the for the handle I'm going to use the third Bond thin that way we'll be able to move on with this right away and get it done uh at least to its first go to finish anyway for those who are curious yes this would have been an option for the platter as well uh the only issue is it would have been a much more expensive option so this is one of the reasons why I went with the epoxy and not the CA glue for the platter she's definitely thirsty I'll let that sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and then uh we'll go back at it might have to leave a little bit longer there's a lot of uh CA glue as it cures down inside of this see you in a bit now since I was having a real hard time getting nice clean cut on this you're going to seem to use a variety tools until eventually I go back to the scoochy gouge like like uh like I'm using here now uh this seems to work really well I'm not good with a skew if you're good with a skew this would have been the project for you I am not and this is kind of a half skew half gouge Affair and for me it actually works quite well um I know that I've mentioned this a lot in the past I hate Center work even though some people say that I'm good at it I definitely don't think that I am because anybody that's good at Center work uh would have had this done in no time uh totally forgot to drill it out so now that it's really thin on the the back side I'm like oh I guess I should try and drill this out so make sure you drill that out prior to basically making it thin on the back end here I I can't believe I forgot that actually I was like oh yeah I mean you could take it over to the drill press and do that but it's certainly better to do it on the lathe you'll have it nice and centered perfectly any other way it could be iffy so I'm just leaving enough material here so that I can do some sanding and then I'll be able to just take the the scoochy gouge and basically part the piece off and just do a little bit of hand sanding afterwards foreign happen to have some uh water looks gloss already from doing a coat of finish on something else so I'm going to use that up on the handle I didn't buff this that shouldn't be an issue that hand sanding on the end is really all this needs as well so this is just one of those barbecue skewers it's about the right size I had a little bit of paper towel on the end of it seems to work just fine well that's a pretty good indication as to what the uh platter portion is going to look like very nice all right we'll see you tomorrow for trimming up platter piece and hopefully we'll get that let's first go to finish we definitely have to because it's going to be late if I don't see you tomorrow all right it is the next day uh things are nice and hardened up I can't put my fingernail into anything anymore so that's good just got a lot of drips I mean I kept putting this on and putting it on and putting it on it was just soaking this up but it's you know it's good and hard now and I can't even drive my fingernail and do it all right let's get trimmed up and get our first coat official so once we get this excess epoxy turned away we should be just about um ready for sanding I do thin it out just a slight bit in the past you've heard me say resin you've heard me say epoxy my understanding is that resin is part A because this is a two part uh epoxy and when you add the hardener which is part B it turns it into epoxy so I know it's commonly referred to as resin and it's commonly referred to as epoxy essentially they're the same terms to me if if somebody says to me oh are you doing a resin finish or an epoxy finish well they're both the same so I know that I've been asked that myself so uh that's my understanding of it anyway uh correct me if I'm wrong so you know things are starting to look really good that penetrating coat really hardened up the surface of the of the platter so I'm very happy with that there you can see how cleanly the surface is cut that burrows this amazing amazing stuff and the red I'll cover that as well the red is is essentially a fungus that grows inside of box Alder and you'll typically see it in stressed areas so if a tree gets a branch ripped off of it you'll find um the majority of the red is going to be around that wound if you will so I know there's been a number of people ask me that over the years as well but it's a fungus that's in the tree or occurs naturally in the tree there's nothing wrong with it it's not going to harm you in any way sure gives you uh some really cool awesome red colors I have heard that over time that possibly it it fades to Brown but uh I haven't experienced that but uh if you have I'd like to hear from you and tell me that yeah I had a bunch of stuff in the Box holder that had some red in it and then it turned a brown so there's a good look at the top surface are happy with that couple of more spots that really need to be addressed yet but again that that that epoxy cup really helped there was a crack right there that got filled in so we'll often trim that back a little further uh but soon it'll be time to work on where the tile is and we'll be able to uh sand this and get our first coat of finish on it so now that we're going to set the tile I'm going to use a parting tool and every one of these tiles I mean this is this is the great thing about handmade products they're all different so they they're all roughly the same size but some were you know there might have been say a sixteenth of an inch to an eighth of an inch in diameter and difference uh so that's one thing you have to do make sure you measure each one of your tiles uh because they they're going to be all different especially if they're made from pottery I know that you can commercially buy tiles that are made out of marble and they look nice and I've used them in the past but you know it's like I said earlier I really like to try and as soon as I found out that you know a Potter could make these for me I'm like well that's awesome I'll be able to you know spread the wealth around within the Artisan community so I'm glad that I did that I should mention that these tiles were made by a woman named lagita I believe that she's retired now so uh if she's watching these videos thanks for this lagita I do appreciate it I just want to take this down yeah sizing stuff like this they're like a little it's a little too tight so I'm leaving just a little tiny space around it so that if the wood moves in the future hopefully it's not going to pop that tile out of there I think that you know over 50 percent of the tile area is resonant it's not wood so that you know that won't move over over the years but it's best to leave just a tiny little bit of slack there just so that if it does move it's not gonna basically pop the toilet if you mess up the diameter on this it's not a big deal because I've still got probably three quarters of an inch or more even more than that where I can cut another Groove and recess the the tile down so that's not really that big of a concern uh for those who are curious I don't embed the tile flat with the wood around it I put it in about halfway that's about where I like to set it and that will be at its thickest dimension finally on the sanding it has taken a little bit to get here with the bumps in the road so everything was sanded from 60 to 800 and where the tile is sitting I just used I just hit it with the 60 grit just to give a good tooth for the um the material that we're going to use to bond the tile to the wood that's important uh on the back side of the platter I was having a hard time getting in because of the headstock with the drill so I just switched to my right angled sander air powered sander and that fixed that problem once everything was sanded to 800 I then used the Triple E buffing compound to buff the resin as you noticed I didn't do anything where the tile is going to be sitting because you don't want any of that in there and then after that's done we'll use some denatured alcohol to clean the surface and we'll finally finally be able to get onto our first coat of finish all right this is the first coat of waterlux gloss not that it's absolutely crucial I decided to make sure to put some um some of the water locks on all the wood parts that are inside where the where the tile is going to be sitting once the adhesive goes in there it's probably not going to get any air to it anyway but I heard on the side of caution and put some finish on that wood as well there it is man that resin is exactly what I was looking for oxide's pretty cool too sure is drinking up a lot of finish though Peru is amazing stuff love that box elder Barrel a bigger turn to get it on camera here the white in there is actually perfect this is exactly what I was going for right we'll see you tomorrow for the second coat She's a Beauty this may be getting repetitive for some people but uh for the new people I always buff between applications of the water locks with the Triple E buffing compound and clean it with the denatured alcohol and then we are ready to put the second coat of finish on love that water locks well that didn't work out so well since my battery died having issues with my batteries I guess I need to uh change them they're just not lasting as long but uh Seco definitely looks better uh anyway after the battery shut off I had to get out my power cord for the camera and I noticed that there was a little ring around here so I just wiped that this is going to take three coats for sure so one of the reasons why I'm out here so early this morning is so that I can hopefully second coat this later on today so what do you think I think it's awesome this uh box holder Pearl wow and the resin I'm happy with that too all right let's do the knife handle there I think that'll do that for that I don't think it'll need a third coat all right if there well there will be a third coat on the platter I will do that the same as I did this coat and we'll see you when we're doing the bottom since this waste block is at the end of its useful life I figured that I would just take the face plate off it and then Mount the piece on my vacuum Chuck and then remove the waste block that way you wouldn't be able to get a parting tool in there to part this piece off so in the back of my mind when I put this on here I knew that I wanted a shorter waste block because if you had a larger one you might have been able to get the parting tool in there but it would have been a little sketchy because of the width of this so it's uh if you're going to use this method make sure that you use a waste block that you're not too concerned about actually whittling away at the end now the waste block has been removed by the gouge I switched back to the Hercules and if you remember I've got this really wide foot so just going from the center and working my way out all the way to the edge it is slightly concave on the very bottom that way it won't Rock when it's sitting on the table or in use and as far as Sandy is concerned I only sand it to 500 on the bottom of this piece because I knew that I had to do some writing really wasn't that big of an issue because I didn't sign on the resin I did sign on the wood but regardless 500 I think is more than good enough for a piece like this after all it is the base we're getting ready to put the tile in uh this is what I'm going with you know what it's just a clear waterproof silicone 100 silicone and I realize that this may not be food grade there are food grade uh silicones and they had one at the store but it was red in color and if any of it squeezed out that's not going to look good so I think that it's best to stick to clear and then you know if this joint does fail in the future usually everybody's got some clear silicone kicking around just put it back on there and stick the plate on it should be good what I'm going to do is run a fine bead all around the outside of this that way when the tile gets embedded in it it's not going to be able to get water underneath of it and probably just do this number you don't want to put too much in here because having a little bit of squeeze out is fine just make sure that you cleaned it all up and then that's it the cheese is going to be sitting on the tile I'm not too concerned about food contact with this because it's going to be on the sides of the tile or underneath it the other benefit of using silicone as an adhesive is of course it's flexible so if the wood moves a little bit underneath the tile with the seasons hopefully it won't pop that top free unlike if you're using adhesive like say PL premium there you go all right let's uh install the knife handle onto the knife so here's our knife as you can see it's not meant for steak the teeth are a little finer on it ah this is just router padding that I've doubled up a number of times that in the vise this is important and don't forget it don't ask me how I know that because I've been down this road uh so the other thing that you need to think about is orientation of the knife handle in relationship to the blade put it on the side like this or like this I'm thinking it's mostly probably going to be on its side so actually let's just do like a 45 degree angle type business something like that here's more router material router padding material I should say put that on there like this yeah I guess maybe my hand's going to be in the way isn't it and there you have it all right so we haven't picked a winner for this uh beautiful little set so let's do that since the last giveaway video at 90 000 subscribers there's been 12 videos including the 90 000 uh giveaway these are the names that the random Youtube comment picker has selected for each one of the 12 videos what we're going to do is throw these names into a little dish Shake It Up pick a winner good luck all right well here are the 12 names so when they go and mix them up here give that a good Shake lit up and the winner of the 95 000 subscriber giveaway is right here in my hand Philip Boswell you are the winner of the 95 000 subscriber giveaway congratulations send me an email to spraguewoodturning gmail.com and I will get your details and get your get your cheese platter nailed out to you congratulations and if you're curious he actually caught um he actually commented on roughing out logs that one of the roofing is so congratulations all right let's talk about this week's project so this is certainly something that we have not done before uh the dimensions on this I've got it written down here 13 and three quarters across that's 35 centimeters and an inch tall and overall thickness and uh so that's 25 millimeters I'm really really happy with the resin on this it's too bad that this tile actually covered up a lot of really nice resin really there is you can feel some undulations in it but you know with taking that epoxy and hardening up that soft wood it certainly really worked quite well here is the box side no time for finish yet uh it actually might even be nicer than the front side but I absolutely beautiful wood and hopefully uh he enjoys down the knife is six inches long and that's 15 point two five centimeters in length and it's a good size I mean these aren't meant that cut up vegetables you know like these are just cheese knives and this is a better selection than the other one that's for sure all right set this down as well all right well don't forget to put designer epoxy in the comments down below to be entered into the giveaway kit at 100 000 subscribers uh what are we at we're probably around 95 600 and something right now so it's actually picking up a little bit but uh it certainly has been slow that's for sure but anyway when we get to 100 000 designer epoxy is going to give away a three gallon kit so if you want to be entered into that but designer epoxy by itself in the comments down below and of course that's only for Canada and the lower 48 U.S states next week is actually going to be a natural um Edge Bowl so I'm going to do two natural Edge bowls something that I rarely do on this channel I'm not a it's really not my thing but I know that it's big in the woodturning world and uh there's not gonna be any inlay in it anything like that so you pure wood lovers this one's for you next week so please come on back for that all right well that's it take care stay safe don't forget the Bell congratulations again Phillip we went into cheese tray in the in the knife hopefully you enjoy it see you next week [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: Sprague Woodturning

Views: 15,428

Keywords: resin, resin art, epoxy, woodturning, wood turning, woodworking, made in canada, petawawa, ontario, ottawa, hunter tool systems, designer epoxy, starbond, sandpaper.ca, inlay, resin casting, sprague woodturning, boxelder burl, cheese tile, cheese knife, cheese board

Id: cTC4hdP4lCc

Length: 59min 12sec (3552 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 23 2023