Woodturning - Walnut with pewter inlay

hi everybody it's a new week so that means it's a new project so I want to carry on with the in Ling series like I have the last two videos and this time I'm going to take pure kind of groove of the rim of this bowl and pour it in the bowl so this is the walnut ball pewter melts at a low temperature so you can use a propane torch and a ladle and then pour it into the groove and it doesn't scorch the wood or at least it doesn't in walnut anyway so before we go any further though I'd like to take the time to thank my subscribers for first of all subscribe to my channel and liking and sharing my videos from the bottom I heart I really appreciate it thank you so much so that's what this week's project is and yeah so this was trimmed probably a couple of months ago it was down to 7% out of the fridge kiln and I've got a glue block with hot melt glue on the bottom of it so we'll get this mounted on the lathe get it trimmed up sand it and then we'll go to pouring the pewter into the bowl the great thing about pewter is if it does spill into the bowl it doesn't stick to the wood so you'll be able to take it right out and reuse it so it's great that way I'm sorry that's this week's project is stay tuned should be fun okay so before I cut the groove in the rim for the pewter I just wanted to talk about sanding so as you seen the video a power senate even if you have the opportunity to power Sam I highly recommend doing it it will give you probably a better finish no it will give you a better finish so in the video I started at 60 and I worked my way through the grits until I hit 320i start with the lathe in the forward position and the drill in reverse and then for the next grit I reversed the lathe and put the drill in the forward position and I keep doing that through grits backwards and forwards and that roll give you a will also give you a better finish or a better surface for your finished as well so the pewter doesn't have the adhesion qualities that glue does so when you in late if if the groove you cut in the rim is straight there's probably a very good chance that that pewter is going to come out so when I cut the groove the rim I cut it like Kiwi like this this being the bottom of the bowl so there's no way that that can actually come out overtime if you're using CA glue to hold an inlay in I mean you can cut a groove like this this being the bottom and it's not coming out CA glue will hold stuff unbelievably so I'm gonna be using this that's a parting tool and again this is probably if you've been turning for a while get on with it but anyway that's next all cut the groove and then we'll pour the pewter hmmm that's not going to work for it the new blade back better it's tougher than it looks there that was easy okay so now that we have a chunk of pewter cut off that work and some of you may be asking why I didn't put something like a piece of cardboard underneath of it to catch the shavings the problem is with the hacksaw it will obviously paint behind and I don't want that contaminating me in like so and the other thing to do is that's a ten pound block of lead lead free pewter and usually I only get them in one pound blocks and they're easier to cut so that well the next time I'll be using a zip saw to do that let's just say that so anyway that win with a ladle I'll use the torch this will eventually melt well train it's going to be tough to do because I've got different camera angles and I'm gonna need to zoom the camera in when I pour it but one of the most important things is that the bowl is level because of course when this is liquefied look we always find level so it's important that your bowl is is level and the other thing too is when I pour it in there's probably a good chance that I'm going to spill some so I'm gonna try and pour it in here that way at least them out of the cameras view and all right let's get this done and see how it goes I don't know how long this is gonna take [Music] [Applause] [Applause] that's good and hot okay wish me luck and I just keep pouring until it comes all the way to the surface in this case it seems the stops and I'll move over here and if it's above the surface that's okay that's fine the rest of this I will just leave in the ladle and yeah well remelt it whenever I do the next one you see it's smoking a little bit and they may discolor a little bit on the inside and then the outside on the in green but after it's sanded again you'll never see that try and zoom the camera so you know it's a little proud of the surface there that's good that's the way we want it it was really hoping to zoom in while it was porn but yeah it's awful hard to do by yourself anyway I'll leave that for a book I don't know maybe half hour and it should be fine and we'll trim this all back sand it and get our first coat of finish on it okay so we're gonna cut this back and yes you can cut it back with a gouge so I'll just cut it back it's I'm gonna have to go below where the wood is because it's kind of domed so I'll probably go about sixteenth of an inch into the wood and hopefully that'll be nice and flat then and then we can proceed to sanding and I usually I start at 120 on these inlays and finish at 320 or maybe possibly 400 and then I might even use a steel wool on it to just give it a nice bright shine before the finish goes on [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay this is the first coat of finish the best part and I say that in all my my videos were finishing them so again this is salad bowl finish and it's put into squeeze bottles squeeze it on these little rags if you're not if you haven't been on my channel before this will get typically three coats all completely saturate the bowl heavily with the first coat and then I should be able to do the second and third coat tomorrow and then I'll cut it off the waste block finish the bottom and that's it and be done so what I do is dial my lathe right down I have the luxury of a variable speed leave and just let it on and again if you haven't been here before I am a shiny finished guy I find that shiny finishes typically sell better than dull finishes like mineral oil or mineral oil beeswax combinations they certainly have their place in the world the one thing that I really like about this finish is that it it's maintenance-free this will get three coats and it's very very durable finish takes a lot to scratch it and you can use this thing for years then they look as good as the day it was bought so again I'll just keep rubbing this in and as you can see it really brings the wood alive and then between coats I'll use either 404 Oh steel wool or scotch-brite pads something along those lines to kind of take any fuzz out and kind of cut the finish back to the boys lots of bugs in her cut the finish back to the wood and then reapply and then do the same thing for the third coat and usually that's all it takes here we are in the backside so yeah I'll keep putting this on saturating the surface until it won't take no more and most times if it doesn't you know if it's not like massive amounts of it sitting on the surface of the bowl I'll just give it a quick bite it will absorb into the wood eventually and like I said this is the first of three coats sometimes you can get away with two it usually takes three and you can see how it really darkens the green and this is of course black walnut so you want there we go that'll go into the drying room and we'll put the second coat on tomorrow [Music] [Music] so I was just getting ready to put the last coat on and I had this bowl out in the Sun curing the second coat so I put it back on the lead like I always do and started it up and just about lost the bowl and what happened was it got so hot in the Sun that had actually melted the glue so this isn't a big deal I'll just open this up and put some more hot melt glue down inside of there squeeze it back together and we'll be good to go but he's just bought lost her that's the only problem with this type of technique but I really like using this technique because I can do the inside and the outside of the bowl completely wait till it's finished stage and then just simply cut it off and finish the bottom separately here we go I think for a little bit of reassurance I'll run a bead around here too okay I think we're good now a little bit movement there I'm just gonna go easy with the four Oh steel wall so should be re it's all good okay last coat one thing's for sure I sure probably won't need the parting tool tomorrow to part this off the waste blog and I've used this method to do bowls for over 20 years and rarely do I lose a bowl off of a glue block with hot melt glue and I've tried a lot of different ways and I've found this way so far to be the best way sure you can put a face plate on the bottom of this but then you're dealing with screw holes and you lose you know an inch or two of your bowl the depth of it this way I'm able to use the maximum amount of thickness in the and the and the bowl blank here she is yeah I was just lucky that I happened to start with the four old steel wool in the base of the bowl or else I might have lost it read off with a read off of the blue block and there would have been no project this week there you go joy spot right there I can see it like I said we'll take this off tomorrow finish the bottom and get a look at in the meantime back to rough turning alright so what do you think think I'm gonna be able to just push this off maybe you go time for some vacuum check [Music] okay so we get some bug holes here in the bottom of the bowl know what there anyway I'm gonna use a star bonds black medium and then of course the accelerator to cure it and you can use dust from the bowl if you wish that black outline is there and I don't think it would go anywhere so and what I'm talking about is this you're still going to see this even if you just use dust from the bowl so you know why I just like to fill it up with this stuff so just keep filling up the hole until it won't take anymore there I think that's good we're all wait a couple of minutes throw that back on the lathe trim it up again and in st. it that's it for this week's project give you a last few a couple of looks of this not easy to film because it's so shiny but yeah we went to 400 grid on this and then for steel wool and then three coats of finish so anyway in the comments below please let me know what you think again it's a beautiful wallet bowl can't go wrong with wall up against so shiny I'll put some pictures at the end hopefully he gets a better look at this and as you can see got myself some new shirts Spragg woodturning it's too hot to wear the smock anymore so anyway that's it for this week's project hopefully enjoyed it as always please like and share comment I'm curious if you're doing in ladies what kind of inlays you're doing and tell me what you'd like to see for an in length next week anyway that's it take care stay safe hopefully we'll see if the next one and don't forget the little Bell you know when I put up a video see you

Channel: Sprague Woodturning

Views: 193,782

Keywords: Woodturning, wood turning, how to, sprague woodturning, pewter, inlay, walnut, wedding gifts, made in canada, general finishes, starbond adhesives

Id: XX0NyZ-sBx8

Length: 32min 38sec (1958 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 19 2020