Wood Turning - Beginners Guide #2 - A Lidded Box

hello okay today's video is going to be number two in the series beginner's guide and it's going to be making a living box before I carry on with that I'd like to say thank you to three guys first of all Tom Wilcox for sending me this a lovely piece of American walnut and I'll be making a bold video of that in the near future Tom and hopefully I don't go through the bottom thanks very much appreciate that and another Tom Tomsk amnion who hails from the UK and he sent me three pieces of what I haven't worked on before very kind of him a piece of Morocco which will go on a pen turning pieces of peeli which I'm using today to make the box and a piece of mine and I haven't worked on any of these so thanks again Tom I'm looking forward to getting stuck into those and finally and by no means least Tomioka shop from the UK who sent me a starter kit for pen toning it included everything I needed to turn my first pen he drilled some blanks for me sent me some pen kits even send me some super glue some accelerator and some finishing polish as well as various other bits and pieces one thing he sent me was some pen buying sorts of blanks for making pens out of wood taken from HMS Victory brilliant welcome to the lathe and get started on the beginner's guide to turning and advice okay so we've got our blank and what we have to do now is to find the middle now there are several ways I'm going to show there are more than this even as you can see I've got the middle there virtually you can either take a pencil in your hand and score one two three four keeping the distance between the end of the pencil and your finger the same all the way around and that then creates a little square which is easier to eyeball Center of the other method is what a lot of people use is literally just putting a ruler across corner of the corner and we'll do it on this side I don't like doing this method and I'll tell you why in a minute and going from corner to corner okay now Adonis the camera will show that we're all ready we've got a slight difference in where the center is yeah the center is about here it's only a slight amount I admit but the reason I don't want using the ruler method is because if your blank isn't perfectly square you're not going to get the center of it what I like to do is use the center finder and they're very inexpensive and I do four and you will see there's not a lot of difference because this blank is fairly square but the center finder will compensate for any sides that are not parallel to the opposite side and getting it as near ascend as you can means that you waste the minimum amount of wood then I simply take a bradawl and put a hole put an indent in the center and in this case I'm doing the center that the center finder found and that's that stage done the next thing is to four prongs further I've which will fit into your headstock I'd like to actually cut the center of that in take a rubber headed mallet and give it a few nice Terps like that bring up your tail stock and lock it off the hole you've just found and locate it the next thing to do is to turn it down to around turn two Tenon's either end and they'll be dovetail Tenon's to fit into my dovetail jaw I'm going to be using a spindle roughing gouge and we'll turn this time to rank okay so the piece is nice and rounded now well now I'm going to take a diamond parting tool and I'm going to make a tenon either side what I've done I've taken my calipers and don't forget always to round off the ng edge against the edges of your calipers the points otherwise they're going to dig in now this piece of wood is at this this blank is only s going to be big enough to fit into my jaws so the actual tenon will not be very deep but it will be square shouldered so that it fits up against the the jaws nice and tightly so what I'll do now is to just start about this degree there and then we take the calipers if you don't like doing it this way you don't have to and already we're at that level at the depth we need the plain view on this side probably anything there at all but make sure that shoulder is nice and square there because I've using dovetail of yours I'm going to just put a slight left tail on the on the panel I think we'll have the top here so the lid I like things about 1/3 so if that's about 1/2 I say that's about 1/3 so that's where the lid is going to be just make a mark with a pencil gives you an approximate idea of where the lids going and what I'm going to do now is to plot off one thing to note is when you top up you jaws always do the three holes there for a reason and just tighten them don't go berserk and you tighten up okay so now what I do is to part off you don't the revs too high because if you do you'll start it'll start to burn so it will take a little bit longer than if you're doing a softer wood obviously now the idea of parting off with a thin parting tool if you haven't got a thin parting tool use a diamond parting tool I'm doing about seven seven hundred and fifty rows and don't forget always make sure things are tightened down and make a little bit of a relief there for the government bond there you go and there's only burnishing there no burning because of the lower revs okay so the lid is off now what I like to do is to actually place the lid in first I always find it's easier to get the tenant to fit the mortise than the other way around and I like the mortise in my lids you can cut a mortise in the body if you wish and the tenon on the lid some people prefer it that way but this is the way I do it and that's the way before okay so what I like to do is to just highlight where I want my tenon to be and I think it's about there but just gives me something to work to through the mortise now so raise the rest little bits and I going to take the square ring scraper and just go in there now God will give me a mortise so that then will be the depth of the mortise so we can take drop the rest again and so speed up a little bit up to about 1500 revs and and the mortis will go to let's say there we go now when you're doing shallow Halloween like this there are two ways of doing it you can either pack Hollow which is from the center out using a half of the pivot you need the rest of a bit higher there for this to get its mark on center there we go I already do it the other way but we'll show it for the camera okay and then you bring the tool on the same / Oh you can also go this way which is like standard bull way of following over Bowl whichever way you prefer okay so now we want to smooth out the surface a little bit from the scraper and just a smooth above inside means less funding get rid of the nerve there we go that's nice and smooth so all that needs to be done now is to sand up the inside ice and up start with 180 grit and work my way up to 600 okay so I've sand it down to 600 now on the inside and the rim so what I do now is to put my sanding sealer mix on and all that is is a mixture of cellular sanding sealer and sun-eater's thinners I do a three to one mix to thin it down slightly it spreads on a bit easier and doesn't tend to form ridges then so a good good dollop of that I'll get in get in the corners getting the edges especially on a box because you've got little shoulders getting everywhere it's taking it in quite a bit desi will put another coat on in a minute now you let that dry and then I'll cut that back with wire wall there are a lot of people don't like using wire wool on a lathe I can understand why I prefer it double-o-double a wire wall however if you don't want to use wire wall you can use the last grit that you sanded to this case 600 okay so I'll come back when I'm about to put the wax finish off I should put another coat of this on after I sander cut it back with wire wool another coat of the sanding sealer mix and then two coats of wax then the inside of the lid will be finished okay just going to put the final coat of wax on now - Holtz and keep moving your pink toe final what for the clean part of the theme tow that's the inside of the lid finished and we'll turn it will take it out of the truck now and put the body in and get started on the body okay so we have the body of the Box chopped up normally with a box like this I'll take the force a bit putting into the Jacobs truck and do the majority of the hogging of the wood owed with the Jacob with a with a force a bit not everybody's got force and bits or not everybody's got Jacobs Chuck so we're going to hold it down and then we can all you're doing here is cutting with that part of your edge and rubbing the battle with the flute approximately 45 degrees now what you will notice is that as you get deeper into any form where your Halloween you're going to have overhang your toon is going to overhang the tool rest which is going to cause vibration and this sort of an action so there's a bowl gouge because most people have got a bowl gouge and I've got one which I've had since I started and this one has actually got a secondary bevel on it and that will give me more stability because the the bar is is much thicker than the spindle gouge let's check the depth and we've got a bit to go so now I'm going to be using a small round nose scraper just to clean up the inside and okay so that's the Halloween finish now so it's always a good idea to check the depth which I've done and that comes out at approximately there give it a little bit of latitude so we're going to be parting off just below that line there just gives us an indication so we don't go through the bottom of the box just make a line there and that's that so what but is the next thing the next step is to fit the tenor to fit the lid on the tenon so very light strokes again don't want it too deep and just start and it's a case of taking down fit imitating so it is rather a laborious process and just with very light strokes with the diamond parting tool just to get that 10 and their right to fit here for the lid to fit and it fits really nice and snugly so now I can finish the inside I'll sand at the inside a sixsome take a paper towel and a little bit of sanding sealer mix what we did on the lid and work out well I'll cut that back with double-o-double oh why wall or 600 grit whichever you feel happier with another quote of the sanding sealer mix and then two coats of white would wax 22 and I'll come back when I'm cutting up the final coat and then we can finish the outside now I'm just going to put the final coat on second coat of wax take the speed up to about 2000 ribs and that's the inside of the ball ok so we've got a little bit of paper towel here I will just give that a wait and then place that over the lid over the body and fit the lid on take off the excess and then that will swell the wood slightly and give a nice tight fit so that we can work on the lid and what I like to do until the very end is just bring up the tail stock burning minimum amount of pressure lock it off and then that would stop the lid from popping off and now all we have to do is to work the shape of the lid now we can take it right down directly to thee the point there well dunno we sand that up I'll come I'll sand the whole thing up over 600 and I'll be back in a second right a little tip when you're sanding I'll tell you I'll remove it I've removed the paper from the joint and I'm sanding up now to get this nice and even when you're sounding this this is not a really tight fit because it's going to be used on a sort of a regular basis so it doesn't it fits nice and snugly but not tight there's a slight suction fit there so when you're sanding I always like to hold the end when you're actually sanding the the lid no problem because you're exerting a very small amount of pressure but it's going inwards but when you start to do the side of the box just hold your finger in the middle to keep the the lid from popping off and I can't again stress enough when you're sanding the the amount of pressure needed is literally the weight of the paper or in this case our brunette and a very slight amount of pressure you literally that's the sort of pressure I'm putting against it I can take it out of my hand easily I'm not grabbing all of it and scoring the top that's not the idea of sanding it's to bring it down to a smooth finish I'll carry on through the grits the 600 and we'll come back again when I put the finishing now we're going to put the sanding sealer mix off again with a paper towel and the lathe stopped you can see immediately how that brings up the green now that's the problem that can happen that just highlights the point that always be careful when you're looking on the box with a lid on that it doesn't pop off always keep a hold of it right so we let that dry I'll Dean a bit cut it back a bit but another coat of Sun in sealer mix on and then I'll put two coats of wood wax 22 on and we will come back to load nothing other to buffets I will do it this way too prevent your opportunity of the lid flowing off and you're actually roughing it all at the same time as well so it has a jewel Palace just dry a little bit and I'll give it a final buff and then we'll part part off the base and just reverse it in the truck and take the tenon off clean him up and then we'll be done okay so I'm going to part the base off now I'm going to use a diamond parting tool and you want to slightly undercut that so that it sits nicely on the and the surface is going on target off now so what we need to do make a joke to place that on but because it's a little bit thin here what I'm going to do is to put it in the jaws as a predator here is put some thirty thick cardboard into the jaws to protect the body of the Box plunge it down not over tight just nice and firm and then I can thing at the bottom of the vaults I'm using a 3/8 spindle gouge we'll get rid of the nerve very light pressures which is in the middle of any item it's hardly serving a fight of all do now is sound at the bottom and that's it and then the Bob his village is the finish box and the grain lines up nicely takes a voice finish this stupidly Tom it's very nice indeed done the bot the bottom all cleaned up and the inside looks rather nice and it's not quite as tight-fitting as I would have liked but nevertheless it's a very functional box well apologies for the video being quite as long as this but it is a beginner's guide and I tried to include everything that I possibly could well thank you very much for watching and don't forget to subscribe cheers now

Channel: Mike Waldt

Views: 1,220,875

Rating: 4.8375525 out of 5

Keywords: Wood Turning, Lidded Box, Hints, Tips, How To, Projects, Sapele, Beginners Guide

Id: nlTLHITalTE

Length: 27min 55sec (1675 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 12 2014