Why I switched: Fuji XH2s vs Canon R6 Photo comparison!

today we're going to be comparing the Fujifilm xh2s against the Canon R6 these two cameras are both sold at the same sort of price point and they offer a very similar set of features of a similar resolution so what I want to do is compare what makes the Fujifilm stand out for me against the Canon and where the Canon strengths lie I want to kind of explain why there's been such a big gap my first xh2s that came from the factory had some dead or stuck pixels on the sensor when I came to do the image review between the Canon and the Fujifilm in that case there were some really big blue clusters of pixels that it kind of got stuck on 100 in the blue Channel and some red pixels with the same issue I returned the camera to Fujifilm they were completely fine about it but I had to wait for a replacement before I could do any kind of like formalized testing I also don't like testing new cameras and client jobs because in the end I don't want to trust a new piece of kit that might have an issue like the dead pixels in the first version of this Fujifilm let's take a look at the images we got from my new replacement I want to see a big thank you to my friend Adam Johnson and my friend Gareth Morton for helping me with this either being models in the photographs wallet I shoot them or for shooting me if I'm the subject in the photograph [Music] so let's take a look at Lightroom and we'll have a look and see exactly how these two cameras compare have a file from the Fujifilm xh2s and here we have essentially the same situation from the Canon R6 so this first image you can instantly tell the Fujifilm has more in Focus than the Canon the background on the Canon is much more blurry even though both of these two lenses are 50 millimeter equivalents the Fujifilm is a 1.4 and a crop sensor which is going to give you around about a 2.1 equivalent on full frame and the Canon is shot at 1.2 which as is about as shallow as you're going to get on any system medium format or full frame so what I want you to think about is how much is that worth to you like what will you put up with to retain that extra depth of field that shallow depth of field or is it even a benefit for you do you prefer having more in Focus because I'm going to spoil this for you now both of these cameras are incredible like you are not going to be unhappy with either camera at any case so we're going to hop over to the develop module now and have a look at the adjustments we made which is going to get a bit more space um I edit using the archetype process profiles these are made to match digital files to the way that a scan would look like out of a film scanner and if you look at the top right you'll see the profile I'm using today is Portrait 800 plus 2 which means it's emulating portrait 800 Expo Overexposed to get like slightly more saturated colors and it's been scanned on a Fujifilm Frontier everything else is being done in the basic panel on the Fuji if you look we've made noise exposure changes we've boosted the contrast and highlights slightly drop the shadows in Black just to give us a little bit more contrast in the image but other than that we've done very little to try and uh to try and adjust the image so let's see what it looks like before I've made any adjustments and we'll compare afterwards so before the image look like this which again is quite Bright Now I prefer this because the profile will reduce the exposure quite a lot and in terms of the contrast like we're adding those shadows and blacks back in to try and correct that so this is what it looks like after the changes so we've reduced the color temperature we've adjusted the tint because it had quite a strong magenta cast and when we've made those changes we get these really lovely smooth skin tones I'm getting what I like to see out of this particular film stock which is a little bit of a green cast in the shadows you can see it a little bit under his chin some like blue tongs introduced in that shallow too to keep it looking cool on the Canon we had to do quite a lot more so again if we look at out of camera the Canon also has like much warmer more magenta cast it's got this really crisp over sharpened look and the skin kind of loses a lot of its detail so again I've applied that profile and I actually needed to add a little bit more exposure to the Canon because it darkened a little bit too far and again you can see that we've had to raise the highlights to put some more pot back in the skin we've again dropped the shadows and the blacks to kind of keep that contrast similar to the Fuji but the area you're going to see the most difference is down here in the hsl panel I've had to make a lot of changes here the Canon tends to have some issues with skin tones and greens so if I turn this off you can see that all of a sudden all the color drains from out of the skin we lose all that nice kind of color contrast in the background that I'm looking for to kind of match the film tones and generally the image looks a little bit desaturated and the colors look a little bit drab if I enable those Corrections again you can see that the skin comes back to looking Lively again but we do kind of have a little bit of an issue with again the background isn't showing some of those animal pronounced color casts that I'm kind of looking for to try and match those film scans so the Fujifilm didn't need much doing to it from the beginning I've literally not touched the hsl I might reduce the magenta a little bit if I was being super picky but frankly I kind of like the way the skin looks here it was a cold day this is what Adam's skin looked like on the day and the Canon again it got rid of some of that kind of pinkishness by normalizing the tones in the original image it was super super unsaturated like if you look at his skin here it looks dead but with adjustments the cannon can look amazing so to sum up on these two images the Fuji looks kind of better with my basic Corrections applied we kind of need a lot more work to get to the same stage I also wanted to mention something about detail so if you look at the detail panel on the right over here you can see that Adam's eye is pretty sharp on the cannon like it's really detailed really defined and I've actually got the sharpening turned off now the reason I've done this is because the Fujifilm files do not sharpen correctly in Lightroom so for the comparison I was doing here when I exported these images I applied sharpening on export and not in Lightroom but the thing that I found was that I actually prefer the way the Canon looks with no sharpening that 50 millimeter 1.2 is so brutally sharp that it actually benefits from having the sharpness taken away and not added so you may have a different preference I'm going to show you what the difference is if we turn this back to default sharpening in Lightroom you can see just how detailed the 50 millimeter 1.2 is and if we compare that to the Fujifilm again get this back on the eye and increase the sharpening you can tell that rather than sharpening the detail in the eye it's almost sharpening the grain structure from the sensor I've had this issue before with other Fujifilm cameras it's it's not uncommon to have this problem and the roots of it I believe is in the way that Lightroom handles the Fujifilm x-trans sensor it has an unusual arrangement of colors and as a result sharpening can be a little bit more difficult on the Roars this is not a problem if you export and sharpen on export it is a problem if you want to rely solely on the sharpening that's in Lightroom personally I like the image without the sharpening anyway but if you do need to have the sharpest possible image the Canon might be a simpler option if you want to see the level of sharpening you're introducing and you don't want to just apply it on export [Music] so again we've got similar situations here now I wanted to pick this example because this shows the difference between the two cameras when it comes to when it comes to lens Corrections so on the Fujifilm again this image has got very basic adjustments there's some color temperature changes and there's no hsl adjustments and the lens correction adjustment is off which means that any Distortion that you'd see from this 33 millimeter 1.4 LM the lens on the the Fujifilm um it's not being corrected by Lightroom this is exactly as the raw file was recorded on the Canon you can tell from the image instantly that there is an absolutely huge difference in exposure between these two images and I want to show you why if I turn lens Corrections on on the Canon it dramatically increases the amount of brightness in the corners the 50 millimeter 1.2 RF is a wonderful lens in lots of ways but a vignettes really strongly now whether this is a problem for you or not is entirely up to you but for me I prefer to have a little bit of the eye drawn with a little bit of vignette and with the Canon it means you'll have to go through and adjust that slightly by hand so apply the lens Corrections and then bring the vignette down slightly just to kind of make sure that they more closely match and again we're seeing more from the Fujifilm that I mentioned in the previous example that I really like we're seeing that green cast that comes in the shadows that's introduced by those amazing profiles from the archetype process and if you look at this image it's still there that greencast is there but there's just less Nuance in it you can see there's multiple tones of green it gets more and less saturated at different luminance levels whereas on the Canon it's kind of homogenized you get one kind of green tone one level of brightness and there isn't the same Nuance in those tones whether that's a good thing or a bad thing is up to you there is actually a technique called single Hue dominance that a lot of people apply to their images where they kind of normalize the colors in the image to make it look more luxurious and appealing personally I prefer to do that myself and I wouldn't want the camera to do it for me but again that's a preference thing the Canon is still amazing it's just doing things differently to the Fuji the Fuji is capturing all the differences in tons and giving you that information to work with whereas the Canon is normalizing those tones to give you a kind of a more neutral starting point and you're expected to work from that let's take a look at a different situation so this is a shot of atom against the wall again and we're seeing very similar things that I mentioned in the previous image again there's some nice green sounds in the background you can see there's like a smooth gradation to the edges very very smooth very minimal vignetting decent skin tones with all the skin detail captured but not a lot of depth of field here because he's quite close to the wall and when you compare that to a cannon in the same situation you can see instantly he stands out from the background even though he stood so closely to it this is not something that particularly bothers me if I wanted more background blur in the image in the Fujifilm I'd simply stand the subject a little bit further out from the background and take the shot again this image is taken by Adam of me at the same time we're shooting the other images and it's to show the difference in terms between the Fuji and the Canon so again this is the Canon and this is the Fujifilm and I want you to pay attention to the color of my jacket that jacket is supposed to be like a beige tan and in the Canon it almost looks pink now I didn't shoot these photographs because obviously Adam was taking the photograph I'm in the shot but what I will say is that they were a little bit more difficult to match in the circumstance than they were in the previous one the Fuji just generally had more true to life colors the mid-tones were brighter you can see from the kind of jacket that the whole thing was a lot more luminant a lot brighter and the Canon things look a little bit more subdued and a little bit less kind of alive if you like again it's still beautiful it's still a wonderful look and I would not be unhappy delivering either of these images to a client but personally I do prefer the look that I get from the Fujifilm in terms of the color although again there is no beat in the cannon for the depth of field foreign this again is the 50 millimeter shot 1.2 and that background blur is is lovely it's really easy to separate your subject from the background and it makes the background look interesting and a feature of the image although you could criticize it slightly and say that it's kind of taking away your sense of context I personally love the wide open look and for me the main decider between these two cameras and stills would be whether or not you really needed that wide open normal lens look that you get from a full frame sensor and a 35 or a 50 millimeter 1.4 or 1.2 if you can manage having a slightly broader depth of field slightly deeper depth of field the Fujifilm still delivers and the image has a really nice quality to the outer Focus areas but it's not like the Canon where it will just instantly separate your subject out from the background if that's a look you want the Fujifilm crop sensor cameras don't do that at a normal focal length although you can use the 56 millimeter 1.2 which is similar to an 85 and I'll be doing a comparison with that lens very shortly so again if you want to have a look at images from the 56 1.2 come back I'll be doing another review on that soon it's actually on this camera over here this recording me as a b cam um I haven't used it yet this is literally the first time it's been attached to the camera so we'll see how that looks over the course of the next few few weeks this shot is of Adam in a very very high contrast situation we're going to go back to the grid View and we're going to take these two images and we are going to compare them so the image on the left is the Fujifilm and the image on the right is the Canon I want you to pay attention to the way these these two images look as I mentioned the Canon Image is going to be sharper this is partially because of Lightroom partially because the 50 millimeter 1.2 is super sharp so even though the Fujifilm is a 26 megapixel sensor and the Canon is a 20 megapixel sensor you can trust your eyes the Canon does have significantly more sharp detail in it than the Fujifilm this is not this is not your eyes deceiving you the 50 millimeter 1.2 is just that sharp and Lightroom is really efficient when it comes to sharpening the Canon files as I said I can get the Fujifilm to match the cannon in terms of sharpness on output but inside a Lightroom this is about as good as you're going to get for the Fujifilm anything you do with the sharpening panel is going to have some unwanted side effects so just be careful with it but look at the skin tones especially around Adam's mustache you can see the cannon has a bunch of pink tones that are over exaggerated there's almost this kind of weird kind of breaking effect where you see there's a pink and then it kind of goes directly to a nearly white whereas in the Fujifilm even though there isn't fine sharp detail and like micro contrast in the skin there is a smooth transition from the pinkish tones around his nose it was a cold day to the kind of smoother most normal skin tones around his cheek and his ear so when you're looking at the two again there is no arguing the cannon has a shallow depth of field the Fujifilm to my eyes at least has significantly nicer skin tones and generally more pleasing color Renditions none of this is a criticism because as I said the Canon was my main camera just kind of a bit of a spoiler but out of the two you're Trading better color in the Fujifilm for shallower depth of field and more detail in the Canon R6 so when you look through any images that we discussed today bear in mind that is the trade-off the Fujifilm will give you more pleasing skin tones it will give you a color palette that I prefer personally you may prefer as well and more nuance and your colors Canon will give you more homogeneous colors that generally start off in a good place more detail and shallow depth of field with the right lenses the lens on the right currently costs 2 500 pounds the lens on the left currently costs 700 pounds now whether or not it's worth it to spend the extra money on the 50 millimeter 1.2 will be up to you and I obviously did pay that I bought my Canon 50 millimeter 1.2 but I want you to think carefully about whether or not it's worth it for you and if you are not specifically going to be shooting the Canon at 50 millimeter 1.4 or 50 millimeter 1.2 it may be worth looking at the Fujifilm because this 33 millimeter 1.4 lens is on that camera is beautiful the rendering is really Pleasant I love the lens and we're going to have a look at some more examples in a little while whereas with the cannon your main issue is that you have to spend as much as leader in the camera body on the lenses to get an appreciable difference the Canon 50 millimeter 1.8 for example is not a great companion to the center and it completely changes the equation that we're seeing here in detail now I want to show you an example of that so I'm not just talking and we're going to have a look at these two images so the image on the left that you're seeing right now is the Fujifilm and the image on the right is the Canon R6 with the 50 millimeter 1.8 RF now there's a slight difference in framing because the subject moves slightly between the two shots and actually the 33 millimeter is quite wide it's slightly wider than a 50 from the experience that I've had with it but I want you to look at the detail it feels like the tables are turned look at the index finger and the case of the phone there is a significant increase in the sharpness of the Fujifilm over the Canon so if your main aim is to have an affordable system with excellent color that can give you roughly an equivalent of F2 depth of field on full frame the Fujifilm is a stronger choice in my opinion the Canon options out there are a little bit hamstrung not because of the camera quality but because of the price a Canon R6 is 2500 pounds at the moment in the UK and the 50 millimeter 1.2 been doing the majority of these comparisons on has been about the same price for around about a year now so the Canon kit will set you back by about five thousand pounds where the Fuji kit will set you back around about three thousand three thousand one hundred three thousand two hundred somewhere in there is it worth the extra money to you takanu again compare apples to apples the best of the system now the image on the right is the 50 millimeter 1.2 look at these two images there is clearly a difference in sharpness and in contrast with the cannon now these are both shot at f2 so there's no depth of field difference any depth of field difference you're seeing is because of proximity to the subject like I said the the 33 millimeter is quite wide for a 50 equivalent the 50 millimeter 1.8 is about done the money and the 50 millimeter 1.2 feels a little bit tighter for a 50 millimeter equivalent so even though they say 50 on the lens they're not always exactly the same field of view but look at the two which do you prefer is the image on the right genuinely going to be worth an extra 2 000 pounds over the price of the image on the left the only equipment I have now for digital is Fujifilm and you're looking at them there's an xh2s here with the 56 millimeter 1.2 on it I'm currently talking to you on an xh2s with the 18 millimeter 1.4 on it and I have a 33 millimeter 1.4 as my primary Stills lens [Music] be the camera will give you incredible quality photographs we haven't touched at all today on the performance of the camera in general but I also find the focus to be more accurate on the Fujifilm I find that the it didn't lose subjects as quickly when I was using IR detection autofocus but I generally had a much less frustrating time using the Fujifilm despite the fact that I've only had it for a matter of weeks where I've had the canons for two to three years and the EOS are before that I prefer the Fujifilm genuinely I absolutely love the way the files look I would like it if they released a lens that had equivalent depth of field of a 1.4 and 4 frame but I'm willing to deal with that as a trade-off because everything else about this camera is exemplary if you need a camera that is going to give you the minimum depth of field possible the most shallow depth of field with the most blown out background you can get the Fujifilm isn't the right choice but if you're looking something with a balanced depth of field that has character and still retains a little bit of context with Incredible color detail and reproduction the Fujifilm might be the right choice for you we're going to be doing a deeper dive into the Fujifilm system over the next few months there are some really exciting features on the horizon for Fuji as well they just recently announced the collaboration with frame.io which might not sound impressive right now but I think it's going to revolutionize the way that most photographers manage their workflow if you have any questions feel free to drop them in the comment section below and I'll try and address them as they come up and feel free to subscribe to the channel if you want to see more like this my content will come out more regularly going forward I'm hoping because now I have a working camera and obviously you know what my decision has been if you were here for the Canon content I'm sorry it's not going to be here but if you want to learn more about workflow for Lightroom about how to be about Stills photographer about how to use your cameras for video or just about technology in general this is the channel for you I look forward to seeing you guys soon goodbye

Channel: Tom Wright

Views: 41,839

Keywords: fuji x-h2s, fujifilm x-h2s, fuji xh2s, fuji x-h2s review, fuji x-h2 review, fujifilm xh2 review, fujifilm xh2s review, fuji xh2s review, fujifilm x-h2s review for video, fuji xh2s review for video, fuji xh2s autofocus, fuji xh2s dynamic range, fujifilm x-h2s footage, fujifilm x-h2s hands on, fujifilm x-h2s video, fujifilm x-h2s vs canon r6, fujifilm x-h2s official, Fujifilm X-h2s Comparison, Fuji Xh2s stills test, Fuji Xh2s Stills Test, Canon 50mm 1.2, Fujifilm 33mm 1.4 LM

Id: zetbe9CP1p0

Length: 21min 44sec (1304 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 17 2022