When to Use a Pressure Pot or a Vacuum Chamber | Alumilite

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- Hey guys, today I'm gonna (soft music) take you through vacuum chambers and pressure pots. What are they, how do they work, and when do you use which one? Now if you already have both of these tools and you're pretty familiar and comfortable using them, I got to shoot you straight. This isn't the video for you. If you have no idea what these two things are, you know that they probably get air out of your molds and your castings but you don't know where to start, you're in the right spot. So here's what I'm gonna do. I'm gonna take you through both. I'm gonna take you through how they work, the common uses, and just give you a basic starter understanding. The key thing to keep in mind here is that these are tools, and there's a lot of uses and a lot of nuance to them as well. That's why we're starting basic and we'll continue to put out videos giving you all the tips and tricks, all the nuances of what, and when, and how, and everything you need to know to be successful from 100 to 500 level. But today, let's keep it simple. So how can I keep this simple for you guys? Well, it doesn't get much easier than this. Vacuum chamber, air out. Pressure pot, air in. Now that's not enough explanation, so I recognize that. But that's essentially how these two things function. A vacuum chamber takes your material and pulls the air out of it by pulling an actual vacuum here within this metal container, and a pressure pot using an air compressor with this inlet attached actually puts a ton of air into this, pressing against your mold or your material and shrinking the air. So air out, air in but shrinking the air. Air out, air in. Did you get air out, air in? In and out, in and out, out and in. Let's start with the vacuum chamber. So a vacuum chamber uses this pump right here to actually force air out of this chamber and subsequently out of the material. If you've mixed up a bunch of silicone let's say, you've introduced a lot of air. Well... (motor whirs) Flipping that switch actually kicks this chamber into high gear of getting all the air out through this hose. That is gonna naturally pull all the small bubbles that are within your silicone to the surface and actually have them pop and release. So would you use a resin with this? Well, you can, but there's a couple of factors to why you probably normally wouldn't do that. Number one is resins often have a shorter open time. That means that the time it's gonna take to get all that air out, by that end point your resins gonna be firing off, and it's gonna get hard, and you're not gonna be able to use it. So not helpful when it comes to resins most of the time. You can still get a lot of air out of your resins before you pour, but you're gonna be pouring it again which means introducing air into the mold again, not helpful. Silicones however naturally evacuate pretty well. So using a vacuum chamber like this gets 99% of the air out. Pouring it into the mold and then letting it naturally evacuate will get the other one. That means bubble-free molds are pretty easy. That's the vacuum chamber. That's why we that. Now the pressure pot. This adds air, compresses everything that's in there, and shrinks all the air to... Well, it's actually impossible to see with the naked human eye. So why would we do that? Well, we wanna do that for rigid resins, things that have a short open time where you want that clear, beautiful glass-like finish part but you don't have time to get all the air out through something that's gonna take awhile. You need to just real quick hammer it to nothing. This is perfect, all that compressed air, that intense pressure, shrinks those air bubbles. The rigid resin actually fires off, becomes hard, and then they're never coming back. It's locked in like that. If you put let's say a silicone in here and tried to use a pressure pot to cast with a silicone, well, that rubber's gonna shrink and that air is gonna go away. But the minute you open this thing back up and the atmospheric pressure comes back to normal, that air bubble may come back because that rubber is flexible. That's why we want all the air out of it completely with this vacuum chamber instead of trying to crunch it down with the pressure pot. All right, so let's talk really briefly operation just to get you started. With the vacuum chamber like this, like I said you're gonna have a pump that's actually gonna pull the air out. So that's gonna take your normal 120, 110 power to operate, no big deal. From there, you're gonna have these two levers here and this gauge. What you're going to do is actually close this valve that lets air in before you turn on your motor. Once you turn on that motor, (motor whirs) you're gonna see the air start to evacuate. That's right here, this. And when you're ready to let air back in, (air hisses) just open the valve. (squeaks) (bubbles pops) Now some pro tips when it comes to using a vacuum chamber. Number one is make sure that the container that you're using is at least twice as big as the material that you have inside. That material needs room to rise up and get the air out. If you have a small container that's filled to the brim, it's gonna go everywhere. Pro tip number two is making sure that you have a good seal on the rim of your vacuum chamber. If the seals off a little bit, you're never gonna pull a vacuum and it's gonna be really, really frustrating. Take your time, make sure the lid's on center. Pro tip number three is letting the material rise up and then fold over on top of itself. That's when you know that about 90% of the air is out of the material. After that, a couple minutes of runtime on this guy will get the rest of it out. And the last and the fourth pro tip for you is if you're degassing and your material's getting really close to the top of your container, don't panic and don't freak out. All you have to do is use this valve, let a little bit of air in. It'll automatically drop back down, and then reclose it and let it start to pull a vacuum again. So here's the basics of how to use a pressure pot. You're gonna take the lid off and turn your air compressor on. Go ahead and put your casted part inside of there, put the lid back on, and tighten it down as hard as you can. At that point, hopefully your air compressor's up to a good PSI. You can attach the hose and introduce air slowly up to about 40 PSI. That's what we recommend here at Alumilite. But never go over what your manufacturer recommends for your pressure pot. Keep that casting inside this pressure pot through the open time all the way to the demold time for your product. Then release the air slowly. It's gonna be a little bit loud, so don't panic. Release the air slowly. And then once it's completely down to zero, take the lid off and remove your part. Now when it comes to a pressure pot like this, this one was actually a paint sprayer that we converted to be a pressure pot. There's how-to videos on that that you can find, but the key thing is to be safe and be smart. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, don't. There are pressure pots that you can buy from other companies out there that are ready to go for this use exactly. (squeaks) (bubble pops) Here's a couple of pro tips for you when it comes to the pressure pot. First thing is this air inlet right here. If you have a bunch of pressurized air entering into your pressure pod, this is gonna shoot a lot really quickly. And if you're not careful and go slow, you can actually splash out some of the resins that's inside your casting. So be mindful, go slow, and be aware of where this is entering your tank. Another pro tip for you is actually test fit your mold before you start pouring. If you have a mold that's maybe close and you think you're good to go, there's nothing worse than pouring that mold and then trying to get into the pressure pot, and learning it doesn't fit. Test fit first, then you're good to go. Now another pro tip for you is actually to pour some silicone into the base of your pressure tank. Believe it or not, these are usually rounded bottoms, it's actually concave. So pouring silicone in gives you a flat surface and a surface that no resin sticks to. It's a great way to make this a very clean machine that's perfectly level. The last pro tip for you when it comes to using a pressure pot is to fill your mold up 3/4 of the way full, then transfer it into the pressure pot and finish the last pour. There's nothing worse than having a full casting and then trying to get it into the pressure pot without spilling anything. It's not a good way to go, don't do that. So there you go. That's a real quick intro for a vacuum chamber and a pressure pot. When do you use which and how to get started? If you have more questions which I'm sure you do, then leave a comment or reach out to us. We're gonna continue to do videos on both of these tools to give you the nuances, and the different times, and all the different exceptions to when you would, and how you would, and what materials, and which one is which, there's a lot. Don't get overwhelmed, start simple, and go from there. Until next time guys, we'll see you soon.
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Channel: Alumilite Mold Making & Casting Materials
Views: 112,261
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Keywords: resin, alumilite, pressure casting, resin casting, pressure pot, vacuum chamber, degassing, how to degas silicone, should I use a pressure pot, pressure or vacuum, best value vacs, california air tools, harbor freight pressure pot, harbor freight, how to make a pressure pot, alumilite silicone, mold making, alumilite resin, resin bubbles, pressure casting tutorial, info, diy, how to, degassing silicone, resin turning, pressure pot or vacuum chamber, jake thompson, zac higgins
Id: bpqh3vNEsMs
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Length: 8min 46sec (526 seconds)
Published: Fri Oct 02 2020
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