Hello, watch lovers, welcome back to the channel! My name is Stian and today we're going to celebrate
the beauty of Longines. We have this 1965 dress watch on the bench. It's got an 18 karat yellow gold case. It's a very simple watch. Very understated. It's not part of any Longines series. So it doesn't say “Admiral” or “Conquest” or that kind of thing on the dial. We see the dial in excellent condition, We see we can wind the watch. Although it was pretty much fully wound. We can set the time and the watch doesn't
have any other complications. So that should make it easy. On the timegrapher we see straight lines. Always good to see. Actually, the lift angle was set
a little bit too high here, so the amplitude is a little
bit lower than what it shows. But still alright. This is a front loader watch, meaning that we need to take the movement out through the front. So we unscrew the clamps that hold the movement in the case. And then we'll take off the bezel
and get the movement out. And that's a fine dial... We get the hands off with our levers and then we can unscrew the dial screws. Typically, there are two: one on each side
of the movement. They press on the dial feet,
and thus hold the dial in place. The dial and the hands are the most visible parts
of the watch, of course, so we're going to keep those safe.
And then we can commence with the disassembly. We didn't actually have to take off the cannon
pinion in this movement. It has a different type of cannon pinion,
as we'll see later. One of the first things
I want to note about this movement is that it's just beautiful. It's a very simple movement, yes. But look at that mirror polished ratchet wheel. Look at the finishing on the crown wheel. Look at those gold jewel settings. Simple movement, but really, really nice and high quality. Longines did have a few things
they did make just to troll us watchmakers, I'm not sure. One of them was these sealed unit barrels, which frequently say “Do not open” You'll find those
from other brands as well, but Longines liked that. And it's also clear
that Longines was not in favor of watchmakers having thick,
lush carpets in their workshops or for hobbyists in the living room
next to their workbench. So they came up with a foolproof way
of persuading anyone with a lush, thick carpet to replace it. We'll see that in a short while. We're almost done with the disassembly already.
It is a very simple movement. So not too much to take apart. We're going to put the balance back in
so we can take out the shock setting. And then we're going to put the movement
into the dishwasher. For the barrel: let's not disassemble it. We're going to take this as a test as well to see if we can reuse
an old barrel like this. We are going to clean the pivots
a little bit. And as always, we also peg the jewel holes. But the watch is not very dirty so perhaps a simple service this time! So with that, let's get the parts into the baskets
for the cleaning machine. As you will see,
we're not going to clean the barrel. And I also leave out the screws
and the couple of tiny springs. These could get damaged
in the cleaning machine due to them coming out through
the mesh in the small baskets. I'm fortunate enough to have this automatic cleaning machine. That's something you really don't need
unless you do this for a living. But when you do, it's very nice. It's always nice to press a button
to have something done for you :) Over to the case: It does have a few marks,
a few dents there at the back, but overall, it's in very fine condition. So we're not going to polish it. And generally,
we also don't want to polish gold all that often
because we do remove gold every time. It seems the crystal was glued to the bezel, which isn't really necessary. But we will put it in the new crystal
a bit later. So let's
then put the case into the ultrasonic. And before we enjoy the sweet, sweet
sound of the ultrasonic machine, I just want to thank my YouTube members
and patrons. It really makes a difference, guys! Thanks so much. And if your name is not on this list and you are curious about the benefits
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at this link on top here. And no, I have no idea who the previous 88 vintage watch services are about... There are a few parts that we're going to treat with
something called Epilame. Epilame is a substance that leaves
a very thin film on the surface of the metal and that allows the lubrication
to stay in place better. So you saw that
I immersed the escape wheel and the cap stones in the Epilame liquid. And then we're simply going to dip
the pallet stones in the liquid. Now, in a previous video,
I asked what career path sadists generally choose; whether it's dentistry
or working in customs. But it might be
some of them also worked at Longines. Because what the devil did they think having a transparent cap stone? I mean, if you enjoy walking around barefoot,
around your watchmaker's bench on your thick, lush carpet,
and you accidentally lose a cap stone, how on earth
are you going to find it again? Anyway, let's check the balance. And that is just beautiful... All right. Let's continue
with assembling the movement. This movement has a few quirks. Longines liked to do it this way in some movements; The bearing
for the third wheel on the train side is actually on this little plate
that we're going to put on here, that covers the cannon pinion and also the minute wheel. So with that bearing in place,
we can then turn the movement over and put in the train of wheels. As the astute observer will have seen,
there's no center wheel in this watch. So it was a pretty modern construction back in the day. The off center
second wheel drives the third wheel, which in turn drives
both the wheel that the cannon pinion is attached to on the dial side and the center seconds wheel. That is the way
most modern movements are constructed, because it does allow
for a slimmer profile of the movement. But back in the 1960s,
that was still not really common. So it's still a little vacation
time in Switzerland. We're enjoying the heat, more or less. I talked about that in the last video
as well. It haas been crazy weather
in Europe for a while. And not only in Europe, of course,
but that's where we live, so that's where we experience it. It's been kind of alternating between extremely hot days
and then some extremely strong winds. Some really strong storms. In my own house,
we have a trampoline for the kids and it was completely thrown
around the whole property. Not that I have such a big property,
but it was probably thrown ten, 15 meters away. And one thing I noticed for the heat; I am Norwegian. So to me it's more comfortable in -30
than in +30, which means that I'm pretty much as helpless as a newborn
kitten if I don't have air conditioning. And somehow... and I'm not sure this applies
to air conditioners everywhere, but for some reason, the air conditioner never ever takes the first input. So I use the remote, right? I press the power button. Nothing happens. And then I have to press
the power button again because now the remote thinks that the airco is on. But that turns it off.
And THAT the airco recognizes. So then I have to press the remote away from the airco
and then try again to put it on. And this happens
every time. I try to turn it off: nothing happens. Then I have to press it one more time
and then one more time again. Yes, maybe not really a threat to life as I know it...
But you know, we need our pet peeves! Anyway... We got to lubricating the pallets. Look at those beautiful purple rubies. And with the pallets
and the escape wheel teeth lubricated, we can put in the balance
and see if this baby will start up. And yeah, that looks just nice. Let’s lubricate the remaining jewel holes, and then we can demagnetize the movement
and then put it on the timegrapher. The lift angle for this movement
is actually 50 degrees. And after setting it to 50
and adjusting it a little bit. I would say this is a pretty
well performing movement. And that's with keeping
the sealed barrel. In general,
I don't like to open sealed barrels because they can be really,
really difficult to get back properly. They deform very easily. So unless I have a replacement unit,
I try to just reuse it. And as we see, that worked just fine. At least this time. The dial shows a little bit of wear around the edge
where the bezel presses down on it. It's not going to be visible
when the watch is cased anyway, but it's also not too much we can do about it. Let's get the hand back on the hands, even... When we put the hands on, we check for each of the hands that it is parallel to the dial. And of course, that the hands do not touch each other either. “No touching hands.” Sounds like a rule for my daughter in a few years. Speaking of my daughter, she came to me the other day and said she needed a day off. She's on her school vacation where she has like 60 days off. So I asked her why and she said,
“Oh, it's just too much playing.” “I don't get enough sleep.” That’s a third world problem I suppose, for kids. And the hand alignment seems fine. Putting the seconds hand on, I noticed that it was a little bit tarnished. So instead of pressing it
on, I'm going to take it off again and clean it a little bit. I simply use this leather buff. Then around the tube, I use some pegwood. To get into those sharp corners. With the seconds hand cleaned up nicely, we can put it back on. Last thing we need to do then is put on the bezel and the case back. We’re going to put a new crystal
into the bezel first. We use our crystal press for that. Everything is easier with a good tool. For the bezel; some of these old bezels
have cutouts in them for the crown or for the stem, rather. We see this one does. So we need to align that. It's far too common
to see that they are not aligned. And then you get the marks on the bezel. The clamps and the case screws
look a little bit rudimentary, but they do work. So we're going to leave them. And with that,
we can press the case back on. And there we have the watch. Before seeing the watch on the wrist, I just want to remind everyone
that at www.vintagewatchservices.eu you will always find more than 100
beautiful vintage watches. And if you're also a YouTube subscriber,
you can use this coupon code for 10% off. And there we have it. Gorgeous. A 1965 Longines wristwatch. 18 karat gold case
with this lovely movement inside it. So a simple service this time. I hope you still enjoyed it. And if you haven't already done so,
make sure you subscribe and click like. And if you want to go deeper into
watch repair than these videos, make sure you also check out the membership options. I'll be back with another video shortly. Until then, ta-ta.
