What Actually Happened at Paris Fashion Week with Maison Margiela’s Glass Skin Makeup (35+ Shows)

I am proud to say that this monstrous video is the most info Den the most thorough analysis and the best designer interviews in the whole industry we attended a record-breaking number of shows at Paris Fashion Week men's and for the first time Oak Couture Fashion Week all of that is in this video smash the Subscribe button if you haven't already for some reason because we have like 10 hours of Paris Fashion Week coverage at this point on the channel get comfy grab a snack silence all of the devices and lock in this is the Paris fashion men's week and Oak Couture Mega video let's go I know that on some level it's like Bliss don't get too excited but it's my video so I'm going to get a little excited this was my first MAA marel show and what a first show to go to here's the deal we're going to briefly talk about the show here because there there's lots to talk about but we're going to do a deep dive episode that is just for this runway show that's going to come at a later time let's talk about it this was a show that was under one of paris's most famous Bridges you know the one with all like the Gold Horse chariots and whatever on this evening though the mood was perfect for the Show's theme it was cold and it was lightly drizzling the entire time there were places under this bridge where the light was catching the rain in such a way that it looked like a movie it looked too perfect there was indoor seating and outdoor seating and I was assigned outdoor seating which I could literally never complain about because it is literally margel and it was not a big deal because they gave us these awesome Pendleton collab blank blankets that they had in a giant wagon may I have the Pendleton blanket please American Mills baby says that it's part of the artisanal line I think it was just because it was the artisanal show I am never getting rid of this but I have a feeling that a bunch of them are being currently sold on eBay for way too much Daniela did not receive an invitation to this show so that was a uh factor which left me to do my best trying to film The Beautiful disheveled mess of a bar that made up the indoor part of the runway this artisanal collection took Mesa Marella a whole year to put together and man it shows like how else are you supposed to create 15 15 different techniques I am not joking 15 new Oak Couture Innovations in this one show that is more than one new industry changing technique a month again in the final product of like the show itself man it shows like at its surface these looks are detailed to the brim but something Kathy horen actually pointed out in her review for the cut and that I completely agree with is that it's much more restrained in The Styling than is typical for gallano which kind of enabled the audience to really take in every single outrageous exciting moment this was our first time covering the Couture season which came right after a kind of restrained Men's Wear week that strikes me kind of as evidence of our deeply risk averse times in fashion but John gallano is one of the only living designers who remembers working at a time when the high-risk High reward model was the only way that you could make fashion history and as fashion fans know that that like making history sells more clothes but we also know that CEOs have been harder to please lately we know that there's a lot more pressure than there was in the past for designers to generate sales but it is so good to see that JN is being given the opportunity to really create something there's a few highlights that I want to point out in particular here the corsets were a Rel tie in to this kind of hedonistic Parisian setting but I loved seeing them on men the corsets are actually made by Kad the most well-respected corsetry business in France anecdotally that company also invented the modern idea of the bra in maon Marella tradition the misshapen and boiled wool suiting was very literally boiled maybe in a cauldron I don't know this stretched fabric Motif all over this show looks like it could have come from a mattress that was left outside in the Parisian streets it was absolutely perfect and what makes me so proud of having attended this show is that this event was not just meant to be a big social media moment like don't get me wrong it certainly became one despite the obvious facts of the show everyone in their mom wanted to know what Dame Pat McGrath put into that glass skin mixture we now know via Dame Pat mcgraph that it was a combination of four different peelable skin masks but so much about this show is counterintuitive with what the digital era requires of fashion like just the colors used in these looks they're so muted they're muddy kind of soggy even everything seemed sep attented it's like an old painting that maybe should be restored but honestly looks better as is so like in this era where everything is digital first the standard has been these white Cube Runway shows for a super long time I think John captured the feeling of what it's like to look at those old photos and videos from the early days of the maon nothing was polished everything just looked for lack of a better word it looked real and to be clear these looks do look great in photographs and in video and stuff but they they are hearkening so strongly back to a period in fashion when things were not designed with the explicit purpose of being seen on Instagram this show was one of the finest examples of a designer who themselves is worthy of fashion history is literally in fashion history books but also carrying out the spirit of the house that they are working for this was simultaneously an unbelievable Mesa Marella show and an unbelievable John gallano show fantastic work particularly special we are walking up to AES now the fixation on Perfection with this brand is just unrivaled I cannot think of any other company in the world that is like this this is our first time I am unbelievably excited this is going to be really good once we made it past the security checkpoints we walked into the pet Diana to one of the most relaxed and honestly comfortable show atmospheres that I've ever attended during Fashion Week the guiding force for this runway show is the Ares artistic director of men's wear a woman named veronique nanian who is designed for the brand for 35 years and I mean it absolutely shows it is pretty rare for ares to do runway storytelling the way that we talk about it with like Hussein chalion or gallano or McQueen or something when Hermes sends models down the runway it's an answer to a question when you can make the best version of anything what do you make so let's just handle the basic surface level Aesthetics of The airz Proposal this season because the styling of this show is so good I feel like it's easy to miss the finer points of what's going on here they find a number of distinctive ways to add visual interests like firstly tube scarves super simple idea it's a small tube with leather on one side silk on the other and some Dr drawrings you're going to hear me say this a lot but wow this leather this leather was so good it felt great we're not going to get too much in the weeds here but the vast majority if not all of the leather that you and I feel on a daily basis is going to be what's called grain corrected leather which just means that when the hide comes in things like mosquito bites or a scar that the animal got over the course of its life those things show up in the hide itself and they want cons everybody wants consistency so they just sand down the Le a little bit and then it looks consistent across the whole thing this effects the hand of the leather does not feel nearly as Lux after you do this but they want consistency so most brands do that Hermes does no grain correction at all the hide is either perfect or they don't use it but when you get to just feel a host of items that all were made from hides that were just perfect to begin with that feeling just the tips of your fingers touching it it feels different it's crazy back to it this is the the type of accessory that sort of updates a whole wardrobe I am now actively looking for one of these they were incredible rain gear was a small part of the runway overall but it remained one of the more memorable elements just because of that layering the translucent material was just seethrough enough to supercharge an otherwise standard outfit now is a good time to talk about the colors in this show which can kind of help us segue into the mythology of colors at AES generally so there are super classic color that are available in hermes's entire bag range and then there are seasonal colors and Hermes handpicks all of them and I'm not going to name any names but there are a lot of luxury companies that have the color palette of the Season selected for them by Trend forecasting networks heres is one of the only companies where I am positive that there are no Trend forecasters picking this it is veronique and her team and for this men's show it wouldn't be Hermes without a very particular lineup of colors like you and I already know what khaki and brown and black look like but I I personally do not have a coat that is the color of anise or petroleum blue or pumpkin or silx or Pete like if I were to put this simply the the palette for this men's show is a lot of the colors that you might find in a mechanic shop which seems like a subtle way to bring in traditionally masculine components without turning this into like a dude brand there's also just the creme de La Creme which is the pony hair pieces the full suit is one of the hardest Runway outfits that I have ever seen this texture is incredible but honestly I I thought the idea worked particularly well in applications like the gilet here we also got to emphasize the coats these were just uh that weighs 2B jeez this really was where my expectations got kind of blown out of the water because when you're dealing with their Mez You're Expecting just perfect clothes and I I I assumed that perfect clothes was going to mean that there was not a lot of experimentation going on but there was this side entry pocket detail is done up in leather clearly and it it demonstrates that willingness to experiment I found this super refreshing the collection was full of ideas like this just kind of gentle experimentation that all felt approachable and it didn't feel this was this was great it didn't feel approachable because the ideas themselves were conservative I would actually say that a reversible leather and silk neck snw with drawstrings is a deeply unorthodox idea heres feels approachable because each idea is executed flawlessly execution is where veronique's 35 years sings The most clearly as we continue to explore and grow on this channel Daniela and I have gotten more and more interested in the idea of quality and understanding what quality actually means in execution Beyond just a vague platitude I'm very excited to continue to look into their legacy of quality especially after having the opportunity to handle these clothes in person these were the highest quality clothes that I have ever seen in my entire life but I I don't think anyone is particularly surprised by that okay I'm going to admit it I was actually really nervous about the Rick Owens Show they emailed guests a few days before with all of the info and let us know that due to the global political climate the show would take place in a more subdued way which is to say that it would take place at Rick's Parisian apartment going to the apartment was surreal obviously and I considered being super intimidated when I arrived until I started nerding out about all of the art holy it was unbelievable so the the mural here on the wall this is a piece by Rick's daughter Scarlet Rouge who has also done a mural at the Venice Owens Corp Cantina absolutely beautiful stuff this mural in particular in his apartment is a bit special because of the sculpture Cal elements that you can see here these kind of like human organ pieces jutting out from the wall we have a set of very intense head sculptures by Barry xball and Matthew Barney I've always thought it would be cool to own a piece of art that requires special mounting to be installed there was also this massive earn by this artist that I i' I've not had to say his name out loud before but just extremely intense it's it's like so stylized that it looks like it's animated my single favorite piece though were these clothes by anel kefir the details on this the textural work is just absolutely crazy love it and hey knowing me I mean like are we ever going to actually talk about the clothes or are we just going to nerd out about the art the entire time okay let's talk about the clothes Rick is known for doing big crazy stuff in his runways but it's important to note that the men's wear shows tend to be much more subdued in their execution and even in the individual clothing ideas themselves we had a bust down season for the boys and this was Rick's best men show in I we'll we'll just say five years and look okay I know I see it too the thing this season is very very loud your timeline lit up with little anecdotes and factoids about these things like everyone thought that these were a collab with this guy Hari who went viral a while back with his awesome balloon pants but it was in fact a collab with stray 2K who does a lot with like latex inflatable type stuff in including this picture which anecdotally is my favorite fashion image to come out of the last like many years I don't know I love this picture it's so badass so yeah I get everyone's desire to look at this and kind of mify it and be like LOL he boot too big for he feet but there's actually a really specific detail that I really like here when the boots are fully inflated the the fully bulbous parts of the boot have this kind of unreal kind of uh shiver to them as you walk because it's a balloon right but look at the difference in in the visual surface from the most inflated part of the boot to the the flaccid latex part that's more like around the guy's knees fashion tends to avoid Long John's like the plague because like first off the name is just like who wants to say Long John's like big Philadelphia sounding ass like give me John the long way so like when a brand like Prada does long johns they they essentially end up with just a male cat suit they have to make them just vacuum sealed Ultra Ultra tight but before this Rick Owens show that's the only way that I saw the Long John thing being done is just like vacuum seal the whole thing but if I may really get into the weeds here I think the reason why fashion designers feel that they have to vacuum seal them is because of this area specifically in the long Johan all this extra material bunches up really weird and I I think most designers are afraid because this doesn't look purposeful it's like the gapping between buttons on a shirt or pilling on a sweater it's part of the reality of wearing clothes but designers don't really have a use for it usually designers are in the business of trying to eliminate little bummers of reality like this okay so this little detail the extra gapping and kind of bunching up of the fabric in the crotch area for this this is what makes these outfits slap so hard this is a detail that demonstrates what Rick does best it's a small detail along with the rest of the fits it really gives men this kind of like swamp moner feel miscellaneous side note here but I also love the group of pieces that seem kind of like their proposals for a permanent uniform item like all of these especially this one right here these feel like some Rick devote is going to pick this up and then wear it 5 days a week for the next 20 years right I really loved being in Rick's home while watching this show cuz it somehow that the envirment gave the clothes this added layer of intimidation like I feel like I was a little close to the feeling that someone on the train would have if some guy just walked on at 2 p.m. wearing something like this that mix of intrigue and maybe a little bit of fear and intimidation this was my first Rick men's show I loved it we've only experienced rain during Paris fashion week one time and it was for like two hours over the summer this time it has been raining pretty much every day all day and it is affected getting around a lot it's freezing cold traffic is insane is pretty nuts we are currently late to Ira which is one of the most promising young Brands I'm going to say in the world Drew Curry doesn't do anything flippantly whether he's putting effort into a runway show a showroom presentation or just designing a shirt Drew finds ways to add care and purpose he's never simply selling a commodity I can say with confidence that this collection is one of the best that I saw this season let's talk briefly about what's actually happening here here this was an open showroom anyone could come through and a lot of folks did for 6 hours Drew sits in a chair watching a monitor no food no water no bathroom breaks no speaking to anyone he only Rose periodically to light a new stick of incense while Drew sat the song bright horses by Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds played the track was on an old tape which had been elaborately spun through a series of poles the song just played on a loop over and over and over audio tape is notoriously fragile leaving it exposed like this is terrible for it so of course Drew set up some polls to have a bit of sandpaper so that we could wear the tape a little bit faster from the beginning of the night to the end the song sounded radically different this whole time Drew was meditating he's a new dad and with that change came a host of new feelings and this presentation I think was his attempt to publicly sort out those feelings or more likely simply learn to sit with those feelings and accept them and if if 6 hours of sitting quietly in a chair does not sound intense to you consider this most people who don't meditate are unable to do the act of just meditating for longer than about 90 seconds it it is surprisingly difficult to just sit and do nothing with no stimulation uh people who meditate regularly usually couldn't do it for more than 45 minutes to an hour Drew sat doing nothing for 6 hours I'm happy to admit that this type of presentation is something that resonates deeply with me on a personal level but these clothes were just fantastic IRA has always been a conceptual brand learning about the ideas and the story is for me the most fun part about this brand but man this season the product is what I would describe as Elite and I would know I I tried literally everything on additionally I love these shirts with the the zigzags to them this this feel very intense to have on it's kind of hard to describe Drew allows the concept for each season and kind of his own curiosity to drive which techniques get used in the collection we don't have time to cover all of those details in the way that they deserve to be covered so we're actually working on a short documentary about this presentation for our patreon supporters we waited with Drew until the very end of the night the end of the six hours and then interviewed him about the experience I've never had the pleasure of interviewing someone who has reached a level of physical and mental exhaustion such that they were shaking but Drew was definitely shaking and his voice was a little bit weak as he explained his thoughts it was really really beautiful and I'm really glad I got to experience that with him we also got to speak with Drew's father and I I got to spend literally hours alone with these clothes just trying everything on and just kind of doing my own reflection about what I was seeing if you do want to see the full story here an hours of other exclusive content go sign up for that patreon welcome back to Walter vanir and donk folks it is always a party here Walter's work tends to more than any other brand that I can think of strive to create distinct characters he sort of asked how far can I push this character without it becoming costume though I think it's a crucial part of Walter's brand to show us how brilliantly he Treads that line and I think that's why this brand has just I mean such a loyal cult following Walter offers you the chance to present yourself as a very specific kind of Icon like not a celebrity Diva but someone who is Iconic in the lives of the people that they know and love but it's not just like an invitation to the wearer to just be the silliest goose in the room Walter's ideas are sophisticated and like nothing about this waist detail for example nothing about this is Goofy this is a good idea though upon further reflection I have noticed that this does kind of fit into the ongoing theme at Walter of glory holes so maybe this is a little bit of a sillier goose move than I was giving a credit for at first it can be both nevertheless this is one of my favorite things that I've seen from Walter in the last few years the blown up muscles from many looks this season just kind of exude this idea of the confidence of people who lift a ton and are absolutely going to make sure that you know how much they lift we see the muscular detail on long gloves and what a appears to be removable pads and and that's a pretty clever like the idea of removable muscles that's really interesting right the padding has created muscles on the outside of the suit which gives you the arm definition that you know someone would be looking for that they cannot get in any other suit on Earth no matter how much you work out it's not going to like you're not going to see like a muscle on the outside of a jacket Walter's also doing Hawaiian prints in a variety of colors and garments which strikes me as an attempt to sort of supercharge your uncle's undying individuality we're finally back in the store on Beck Avenue in St Andrews all jokes aside it's great because like the man in your life who wears a Hawaiian shirt is such a distinct character I have one I'm sure you have one too and Walter points out how almost costume like that person can look and because Walter has been at this for decades at this point we found both the Hawaiian print and the muscles Motif come from the fall 1995 season of wild and lethal trash his legendary first brand whose shows were known for spectacle and of course these just insane clothes in the Walter Universe he has referred to this character part of his work as creating avatars which was the basis of much of his work at Wild and lethal trash where all the insane headgear and accessories for this show that's where all those are from I'm just going to throw up some side by sides here so that we can appreciate them mixing in these old elements of Walter's UA was super enjoyable to see in person especially for someone who never got to be around at the time that these shows were actually taking place makes me feel like I was kind of kind of there even when Walter walked out at the end with this just unbelievable outfit like maybe the best outfit of the whole show he was sporting the facial devil horn Prosthetics from his fall 1998 show we went archive all the way down with Walter van beandon there's always going to be some sort of message the models all walked with what seemed like small speakers or maybe the music was coming from their phones you know I was all playing a selection of songs that your dad would love and that YouTube would kill me if I included in this segment like each model as they were walking had their own song playing from a tiny little speaker and it it created this very discordant audio experience that was really fascinating as the models filed into each of the rooms that made up the runway they would State a fact about themselves in a really like low tone of voice things like my favorite song is atmosphere or hello I'm from South Korea or I come from space all of that together with the very elaborate headgear and the outrageous looking clothing kind of have only furthered this unique individualistic messaging that's inherent to Walter vanand Don's work one model walked in wearing a jacket that said stop war and instead of saying anything he just pointed to his jacket one time when I interviewed Walter he said that he's not a surrealist in the tradition of fellow Belgian Renee mcgree but more a surrealist in the tradition of the studio artist Paul McCarthy that's McCarthy not McCartney this is one of those Unapologetic statements from alter that's meant to be heard by others but it's always an optimism that's twinged with this sincerity like the kind of sincerity that really bothers cynical people but hey I mean that's that's Walter and his dieh hard fan base we love him exactly as they are we moved back across town to an abandoned building that was used for a lot of shows this week to see junor Watanabe unlike junor watanabe's women's wear shows his Men's Wear tends to be just a little bit more wearable and I know that that word is just so annoying I mean like it's it's the reason why non-fashion people would look at his last like women's wear show for example and put on their most annoying voice and be like yeah but who would where would you even wear something like oh it's just it's not really to be worn just take all the people like that and just punt them into the sea and by comparison this collection most definitely is wearable but the uh the wearability is a ploy like a sneaky one if you can ignore the super badass styling that is always present for Junior shows the clothing at first glance seems like something that your dad might be open to wearing if given to him at Christmas but the closer that you look at it well that that is a blazer with you know it has pants attached to the bottom at its most extreme this season the combined top and bottom coats are kind of playing with the pattern of the rise of a pair of dress pants or jeans or chinos which is experimental in its rendering but also Ultra familiar to anyone who has ever just put on a pair of pants simply put this is just a really approachable avanguard collection for men and that that's reflected in the show notes which are always cryptic and one sentence long for Junia these say quote I wish for men of different generations to wear these suits end quote and all the elements to make an attempt at cross-generational clothing those are all there like I mean the window pane jacket the striped cotton shirt like who hasn't worn a pair of Levis before right if you have a yard maybe you have a car heart jacket to put on for when you have to mow that yard the collaborations list this season is still overflowing it includes Levis carheart Brooks Brothers and I I feel like those especially I think are good choices for an avangard collection like this because all three of those brands have a place in just about every man's wardrobe even if you don't own a Brooks brother suit specifically more than likely the suit that you put on for family weddings and stuff is inspired by the Brooks Brothers suit Junia is attempting to kind of nudge the more conservative dressers into something a bit cooler you are no doubt familiar with the idea of wearing a coat over just your shoulders but you know like a cape a full-on cape that is too much for the average guy this season Jun wants you to know that you're for sure wearing that Cape except he does give you the ability to feel a little less weird about it like those sleeves are there on the outside but they've cleverly been sewn down to the body of the coat so it's not like a cape cape but it it's like a cape with training wheels I think this collection is just kind of supposed to be an olive branch to the people in our lives about the kind of weirder ways that we dress many times on this channel I have said that you know if you feel insecure about like the way that you dress and you need your family or your partner who are not into fashion to like a like please Dad please say it's cool that I like Rick Owens like I just don't know if that day is ever going to come and I still stand by all of that but if your dad is like asking some questions about it and he seems sort of into it and you want to take him on your next trip to do Street Market to try some stuff on this seems kind of like it's meant to be the collection that you can sort of share with someone who's just getting into it a collection that'll kind of elicit that like okay son I see what he's doing here okay it's two coats I all right and you can be like Dad with Junior watab it's so much more than just two coats do you know about the Japanese concept of ma dad and the do Street employee is like guys can we hurry this along I'm late for my next uh neck tattoo appointment then it was off to Louis Vuitton men's I will spare you the long process of people trying to get in and get settled this was not a group of people that wanted to get settled and they eventually at one point had to like do like a feedback thing on the stereo system to get everybody to be quiet enough to actually take their seats please take your seat we are about to start the show quick overview of the show itself like at 10,000 ft forel's collection is about Western Wear he takes from his predic cessor Virgil ablo who kind of started the Louis Vuitton conversation around black cowboys a few years ago that remained a motif of Virgil's work during his tenure there since then the cowboy agenda has continued to grow in The Wider men's Zeitgeist and this show will likely be the biggest mainstream Yeehaw moment of the cowboy Trend but that look is at its core a unique stylization of just workware right and cowboy step aside we are absolutely in an era of workware for men there is no two ways about that so this show celebrates the favorites of workware and applies a very rugged American lens of dressing up so backing even farther up to 30,000 ft to talk about this era of Louis Vuitton men's forel's largest asset at LV is just his taste stay with me here I know this seems obvious let's let's walk it out a little bit so just like as a celebrity farel has influenced literally millions of people for well over a decade and I I know that influence has become this meal loaded word like immediately it just summons up this idea of someone in a cheetah print Beret doing another Sheen Hall but influence does have multiple meanings and pretending like that's why Fel was hired at LV I think is intellectually dishonest Dison so that is one kind of influ just like influencer influence and then there's like the more corporate style influence where it's just kind of like you know a celebrity endorsement of something where it's like hey guys my name's Fel please buy a speedy that is also really not what's going on here the Third Kind of influence is the culture creation kind that is about as rare as it is powerful Fel is among a handful of men who have contributed large sea changes in The Wider Men's Wear sphere we're not going to do a historic overview of what forel's specific contributions were because I don't want us to get too caught up in the weeds here Louis Vuitton likely Bernard Arno looked at the landscape after Virgil passed and asked who could reasonably fill those shoes verell is literally one of three or four men in the whole world who have essentially created a separate career for themselves out of just wearing clothes and that's honestly to say nothing of his music career which I I don't think there is any debate about farell just is a musical genius okay so being influential in this way is not simply a celebrity endorsement Fel has had a lifetime of dressing himself with such a strong Vision that it has moved culture and also moved tens of millions of dollars in sales for many different companies forel is one of the most likely men in the world to get a normal non-fashion dude to actually try something different about their personal style here is what I been wondering is Fel going to find a way to bring some of that personal style skill set over into his runways like does that make sense I I I don't just mean incorporating his personal taste into the collection farell is literally already doing that and that's that's also exactly what every fashion designer does I also don't mean anything as literal as like Fel modeling for his own shows or something I don't really know specifically what this will be but there should be some noticeable element to forel's Runway work that should be the direct result of this other skill set that he just has such command over so yeah that's that's kind of what I'll be looking for as Fel continues to establish a baseline of his tenure at Louis Vuitton on we'll see how it shakes out formerly known as Winnie New York now just Winnie because we are in Paris I've heard about Idris work for years at this point but I've just never had an opportunity to look into it I really excited to see how he chooses to go about this because I know he has a lot of formal tailoring training and to be able to see that on a a Runway context you're looking for someone who has deep knowledge of The Craft but has ideas that can kind of expound what the craft is capable of doing plus the show will be styled by Julie ragolia who's the goat is like the greatest stylist ever I'm very excited let's go [Music] [Music] see you had formal tailoring like real formal tailoring training could you just tell us briefly what that training was and where it came from yeah I mean I uh I I I had an apprenticeship on Sao at Hardy am 4 years and yeah I mean it was is an amazing experience and allowed me to fall in love with fashion for for the I don't want to say realness because all of it is real but um I don't know for for the lines for the anatomy so I started as an apprentice and I would do button holes all day long wow um but then in the end I was a cutter so they make you go through Apprentice then maybe you make trousers maybe you set in sleeves maybe you do a waist coat and then a cutter is like a like a managerial situation I mean you're the cutter is the representation of the house style right 100% yeah yeah you you're meant to take the house transcripts and uh and and not modernize them in a sense of like changing them but modernizing them in the sense of finding a way to keep them the same but uh allow for people to identify with them today could you talk a little bit about like how you sort of mix your own identity and the creative variance on tailoring and while still keeping things honed in and precise SEO and that type of background is very much based in Tradition and and and and learning the rules and and not breaking them but you know I don't think savaro teaches for you not to break them you know like uh a Blazer was originally a top coat and it was you know slashed you're talking about the one like with tails the old ta like a tail coat and like a regular suit that we know now that was was working class you know that was like something working class and that's innovation in my opinion because we're living in what a 100 Years of the sup being a staple and I think maybe sometimes that's not um highlighted enough you know like I think maybe the Sao guys get a bad rap I I knew a guy who uh worked at Henry PS his name was Rory Duffy and he won the golden shars which is like what you win for being a maniac he was extremely creative sure it might not be in the sense that someone who's just walking on the street can just immediately see because they don't speak that language but it it was in Innovative beyond beyond measures and I think sometimes we need to not think about the immediate Smash in the face and look at pieces for their Instagram ability or whatever yeah don't like look at their intention look at go look at the stitching if things are lopsided someone touched it you know go look at the inner Linings we used to put coins and bits and teabags and little weird things lining into people's Linings just to just to promote that Discovery there was one detail that I noticed was I think pretty consistent and it's it was kind of a drop it might be a different term in suiting but a drop shoulder kind of where it was slightly over you tell me how you landed on that and how you keep Precision with something that is in itself a little bit unprecise yeah yeah I mean for me I've always been an admirer of ease you know I think ease is so important to to uh uh to to to kind of give one the eye something to ponder you know like you you're you're staring at it because you feel like it's kind of untethered I think ease is sexy you know to just wake up and just be the certain way and so this slou shoulder that we constructed allows for you to look like you have you're just kind of hanging out up ease and it also creates an oval shape for the for your for your top and then we crop and then we usually crop jackets so it makes your legs look extremely long and then we make this extra long so you end up looking like this really tall fit person um which I think is all in the way you you you you cut the garments very cool good to see you man pleasure to meet you yeah great find it is time for eay miake this is our fourth time seeing eay but our first time seeing please say the men's line typically when a house has a single creative director that covers multiple offerings like men's and women's they focus on one in this case the the women's is definitely the focus but then the other category in this case the men's kind of follows the lead of it but then sort of gets its own flare so I'm I'm mostly interested to see how they execute that in the clothing but more importantly for eay not more important it's actually less important but I want to see if they're able to imitate the same atmosphere because eay mi's women's line just has some of the most unbelievable in room atmosphere for the actual Runway shows themselves there only one way to find [Music] out all right so first off we all know that in the makak Cinematic Universe there's a few different brands you are likely most familiar with pleats please which is a line that was started by the founder the man himself in 1993 it has managed to be cool for decades like it started out just as a women's line but I mean for how much they stay true to the original concept it just keeps looking futuristic and no no end in sight it still looks incredibly futuristic the reason it looks so futuristic are the knife pleats and in 2013 a genius at miak headquarters possibly Mr miak was like we got to get men in on the action but the knife pleats weren't actually hang on so we can just show you these are two pleated tops by eay miak lines this is daniela's top it has the knife pleats it is so cool but then I'm going to swap out of the the Marella Perma wrinkles with the one item I own but you can tell that the pleats are really considered for the men's Line This is the standard type of pleats it's just much puffier it's more bulbous they kept the wider Vision they made a small change to the technique and om was born and has been showing as the eay miak men's line as with pleates please the the OM is remarkable at just doing so much with this textile like this season a collabor ation with the artist Ronan borc that's just one example of the range of the OM Line borch's work was integrated into the clothes as Graphics that just blend really seamlessly with the own P work it it felt as though the graphics were done inhouse this was pretty clearly a natural fit for the brand as a collaboration but it's especially a good fit when you think about how naturally these fit with the clothes the graphics really look like they belong on these clothes and some of the most famous well-known stuff in the history of pleat pleas is printed graphic work and these painterly Graphics where you can really see the brush Strokes these feel optimistic Airy very beautiful it's all of the things that I feel like makak om is is kind of known for something about this collaboration in particular also stuck out to me so I always say that fashion is Art if you're watching this video right now you probably agree with that somewhat and the om p team must agree at least somewhat with that because they hung all of the pieces from the collection on the wall with little pins like at the very least maybe the team was being reverential to borx Artistic contributions but to me at least all the hung pieces ended up sort of looking like the the color palette that you pin up onto the wall so that while you're making something you never forget what the core is supposed to be the hung clothes themselves kind of served as swatches and when it comes to shape a piece of this Fabric and two snaps create just like these insanely cool and Sleek elegant hats they're paired with these striking ponchos that look beautifully cut at the shoulder and the last series of looks features these kind of almost monastic looking hoods and scarves and cows with this stunning drape to them and there's another set of looks that feature the the same knife pleading that we find at pleat pleas but printed over with more of borx work and it kind of creates this illusion where you can't tell if you're looking at the physical knife pleats or the printed lines which to me becomes just very visually compelling the brand is so deeply rooted in practicality but even after all the super elaborate kick flips of design and industry-leading textile development it never really crosses over into useless and fussy territory the design team allows themselves to get really creative with everything but there's this insistence on practicality I pretty famously don't like the use of poly Ester in fashion most of the time it's just a cheap cost-saving measure for a fashion business that results in subpar overpriced close e say miak brands have a pass with my blessing because they they use polyester to push our understanding of fashion forward polyester becomes a crucial piece of creating their brilliant crisp minimal work this was our first time with om p I really loved it I'm looking forward to more we're going now to C cartic research and this is what I consider to be like the period where I get educated on the artisanal processes that are unique to India some of your favorite fashion designers have used oldw World techniques of Indian factories to make some of their most beautiful work and cartic Manufacturing if I remember correctly I could be wrong all his manufacturing is done through very small Mills throughout his home country last time he was able to you know brag but it's not bragging if it's true he was able to brag that no electricity was involved in the creation of that collection we'll see see we'll see what's up this time this ruled this was so good thank you thank you we tried yeah so this is this is the first runway show yeah first anything that's not a pop up in like a small corner of a store yeah your parents are here my parents are here family's here I saw two very well-dressed people that were a little bit older than everybody else that's them yeah that's them are we are these guys still walking or can we kind of look at some technique stuff what what are some things you're really proud of yeah need to go for model mode but the um this is like really fun piece this is the Indian wedding piece this uh so typically you'd wear like a maragold Garland I thought it would be cool like sort of Trum flow embroidery if we do it with like wool thread so from a distance it looks like real flowers but up close it's actually just embroidered into the fabric uh and then there's like sequins woven into the fabric so in the warp and weft you place it what before the yeah it's in an in between space of a flat surface yeah it's crazy yeah so this is a technique called Naki K uh traditionally done like an upcycling quilt thing but floral embroidery on top of that effectively and uh block printed with natural dieses but this time we added like tiny little embroidery details on every corner you said it's block print so just the yeah block print but no outlines this is the sort of pie resistance the uh sorry one sec let's see that takes s days to do that embroidery it's all done by hand if you feel the wool it's really soft which on hand Loom is like close to Impossible this almost feels like boiled wool yeah it isn't but it's just like that soft right and like to to me this is like the thing where it's like there is there is no comparing India to any other country when it comes to this kind of this is really like where India is a like weown this technique it's the only place where we can a do that and B scale it yeah the thing that I I really want to highlight about your work specifically is that when a a young brand decides to go the artisanal route that is already a very difficult decision but you you I mean all of these ones that you named I would bet that those are all at different factories oh yeah and so all of those each are a individual relationship that you're having to develop and those are those people are not usually looking for new clients you kind of have to convince them no that's not true they are looking so when we when we started working with them one of the reasons they operated at such low minimums was because the industry was really dying it seems like in India among the creative people there's a desire to bring your extremely specific aesthetic culture and kind of spread it around but that becomes so hard to do because it's either that it stops being Indian or it's so Indian that westerners are kind of like I don't fully know what to do with this because it's so much referencing the the the details of the past how how did you figure out how to balance this because it is it's exceptionally balanced yeah weirdly I think that's probably because I didn't study fashion you know like I came at this from like flipping Supreme and like this post Supreme brother you know what I mean right that's how I got enough money to the five grand that I put in the store was telling Yee and supreme last time you said to me something I've never heard from a single other designer which is no electricity was involved in that collection is that true for this one that's true yeah that's going to stay true yeah that's crazy could you just explain a little bit what that mean does that mean I mean sewing machines use electricity what no that uh in the fabric production process so the knits are done by hand naturally dyed uh not in like chemical mixers and then um all the wovens are done on handlooms the embroideries Run by hand so the textiles themselves are produced on handlooms so um it takes that's why it takes like a good eight months to do our production run yeah so all right man thank you so much congratulations thank really beautiful Yeah we actually had a really full conversation about technique and if you are passionate about artisanal design you absolutely should watch the full interview we have the full conversation available now on the patreon go join it up watch that and a ton of other interviews along with it time for the craziest of the whole week it is Victor and Ralph time I this has been like coming for years at this point Victorian Ralph has continued to hold the standard for really really out there avanguard work in Oak Couture all I can say is that if you aren't aware of their work before now you're about to see some really crazy stuff over the years I have kept up with Victor and Ral periodically because despite what you may know about their record selling fragrance their Couture is far more interesting like like really really interesting though lately I've begun to wonder if their Couture is able to be so experimental and so groundbreaking because of the success of that fragrance I truly and honestly love that for him good job and I think the thing that makes Victor and Ral so special is that they're able to meet all of the expectations of Oak Couture while thematically bucking all of the conventions that you would expect out of a show in the oak Couture calendar they presented the looks in sets of four starting with an all black dramatic evening wear offering like a satin coat or a teered gown that over the course of the other three looks it kind of becomes more gradually destructed and reconstructed via the very scissors that the audience could hear loudly snapping away as the soundtrack I think the best way to put it is just that Victor and Ralf turned deconstruction into a sliding scale which is a fascinating idea for a presentation deconstruction is usually a process that the designer engages in and we only get to see the final result deconstruction usually is a process where the designer is stopping that process part of the way through so that you can see the process but they have to freeze it in a certain moment in time and you're only as the audience privy to that one moment this was able to give you multiple of those moments so that you could kind of start to build the narrative in your head looking across them there is maybe a little bit of Precedence for this kind of thing like this video where McQueen deconstructs a bridegroom live in fact I I kind of wonder if this video was on Victor and ral's mood board as part of this show the in between looks from this collection seem seem to capture the process of deconstruction surprisingly well but what makes me feel like this may be inspired by the McQueen video specifically is that the second third and fourth looks are all decorated with the motif of kind of just like a kid playing with scissors to like cut up a dress in the hands of these Elite coutries though those holes turn into these lovely and professionally finished Jagged holes this was our first ever Victor and Ral show I'm really glad this got to be part of our Fashion Week beautiful stuff it was then time to visit the man of infinite ideas our kind of artisanal Wily Wonka Leon Emanuel Blanc if there was some kind of contest for which designer had the most ideas in a single collection Leon would probably sweep every single time and this is the same thing as before where you did a resin pour on it um no this is um actually so this collection is called momento Mori remembering the past remembering mortal mortality and Not only was used from the Roman emperors when they return from battle that there was a slav standing next to them to tell them to remember they're just not a God in that sense yeah exactly and uh it was also used in Italy and Europe um when people died that PE it was it's called momori right so you would take something from the dead and keep it with you would be hair or um a piece of nail or a tooth or even a bone and we would use that theme in our idea to remember what we're actually using so uh we're mostly using horse leather or sheep skin or some of these things so in this particular code it's basically a puffer code but inside is sheep hair so instead of you know um MTO Mori using uh humans hair to to uh represent uh remembrance of someone who has passed we're actually using items or products from from the the let's say animals we use throughout our collections so that invitation you got uh is a Horsetooth yeah wow and that's that's that's uh a real um horse skull where we use the upper part and the and the jaw and it's it's beautiful that you're using more of the animal yeah which is cool there's there's like a purpose to it instead of I mean such a beautiful object just throwing it away would be so pointless absolutely and I also want people to realize that was not just some random plastic that's hanging around actually was a living living thing that you would use as your clothing so that's needs need to be remembered in that way actually interesting like if you take away let's say our um you know remembrance of death and Decay if you just take the actual happening of it it's beautiful yeah so um also how the bones look afterwards I love that the the modern interpretation from momento Mory finds some joy in something that we all I think struggle to find joy in if it's like happening around us to family or friends or whatever but yeah remembering that in a in a way that doesn't put a value assessment on it I think is really healthy another product that we developed for this reason is actually our bulletproof vest oh my gosh um you um have um a backpack or a vest back that you could put numerous things in but you can also put plates in bullet like Kevlar plates yeah sk3 and this you shot it yeah yeah cool this is what happened actually and um now that that is a really interesting material which which um let's see did you develop the transparent leather in studio or did you buy it from like a echo U not from Echo from this one's not from Echo this is one I've used actually eight or N9 years years ago before Echo was developed okay um this is actually a a perment so not really leather it's it's an in between thing of leather and and and uh so it's it really stiffens up but I I thought it fit fits the uh the purpose of that plate carrier our coat made from horse hair this is just horse hair white like a white horse and it's the the tail Hair W and woven into uh a material now is this the same type of horse hair that would be used to give structure to the chest of a suit uh almost that's what we started with to find but then I found this company and they actually make this uh for several houses of how do you say that Kings and such houses like for oh like Royal they have royalty as their CL exactly and they make uh covers for chairs and all these things with this material okay so uh it's not really used in in in clothing oh so they because of the high profile of the clients they want to keep it organic materials instead of using like a plastic or something it's really like one of those cuz that does have it almost feels like polyurethane a certain treatment of it but there's some poesta inside though like a a good let's say 30% but the rest is really just a horse tail and it's undyed so this is really from White Horses so we have another black material which just from black horses there another natural one it's like mixed and Browns so you didn't have to do any dying for this you just had to match it with the poly that you blended it with absolutely that's so cool I have been waiting for this for literal years we originally met Miss SOI at our first Paris fashion week she had a small showroom I just happened to see her stuff when we were looking at someone else's clothes and I got to meet her we didn't put her in the video because she was a little bit shy but I was able to tell her Danielle and I were both able to tell her like you're a genius like we cannot wait to see more work from you here she is at Oak Couture week and we are going to the show I am just like beaming with excitement this is going to be sick miso he is able to keep the quality standards of Oak Couture but the imagination and the fantasy element of it is just it's it's exactly what you expect o Couture to be and she struck me as a really humble person smart and humble it's a good way to be M's Couture radically modernizes The public's expectation of what Couture can look like her inspiration for this season were these South Korean antiques each unique in its own way just like the looks on the runway where there's so much variety between them that they function like a perfectly curated shelf of collectible objects and on the topic of antiques Antiquity itself Finds Its way into this collection through these round and bouncy skirt shapes that I would describe as nothing short of at least Regal and maybe even Crist balles and if he were alive today I do feel like chrisal Balenciaga would catch just the tiniest bit of jealousy when looking at this dress in particular for all the sophistication and conservatism that comes with the traditionally Regal look the designer SOI park has managed to undercut all of those Notions she delivers a shockingly sultry take on the most stuffy in Antiquated Couture expectations with these backless dresses and these sheer bodices one of which strategically utilizes a matching hand fan to maintain modesty I honestly can't imagine how incredibly fun wearing that gown would be and I think that's why so's work has experienced such a huge boom women seem to be tripping over themselves to be a part of this world that she's building these trains are dramatic and showstopping in hindsight I realized that I had only seen trains like this on wedding gowns a beautiful well-considered train isn't something that's made its way into most people's lives and if all we did was just focus on the shape the movement and the texture of the trains that would be time well spent when the goal is to create things of beauty the highest possible achievement is what Daniela and I have started referring to as heartbreakingly beautiful the goal was achieved here heartbreakingly beautiful okay ladies men and my non-binary friends we are covering as many Brands as we can so let's do that now here's our first ever Paris Fashion Week lightning round covering eight Brands first we have lgn brooding and dark tailoring is as dramatic as it is inclusive they've added women's wear to their lineup and they're one of maybe three brands total that use plus-size male models on their Runway Big Ups to Louis for making a point about that undercover loves being a fanboy and it has taken him a few years but he has finally discovered Twin Peaks this is an agent Cooper Stan account but this gedy collab took me all the way by surprise like do you see that eye crazy I love undercover love guidy can't help but be happy about this collaboration shinya kazuka is one to watch his pattern cutting is pretty unbelievable like to a degree where Daniela and I end up wearing pants of his almost every single day at home his baggy cut is an absolute home run and his vision is now more pronounced than ever in this season's collection which was inspired by a winter Feast some great detail work here I'm excited to see how his full collection offerings develop over time erl was focused on building out a Nostalgia collection looking back at the early 2000s from the perspective of a teen in the early 2000s who's now grown up I got to say there was a lot here that I recognized from my own childhood which actually took place on the opposite side of the United States than Eli's childhood if you are not familiar with John lob you are missing out they are the most incredible shoes that human hands can make they do every single step inh House of their Northampton Workshop if you want fully custom shoes they will actually make lasts out of your feet lasts of those wooden block like material things that you model a shoe after like they will make a model of your foot out of wood we don't usually cover Footwear Brands but John lob is the global gold standard for men's Footwear it was really cool getting to see the full lineup firsthand garu Gupta usually executes volume so beautifully in his Couture but this was a substantially less voluminous show than usual for the brand everything seems much closer to the body with evening jackets trench coats and bronze Bas that evoked a more statuesque Beauty for a brand that's usually known for their movement the good news is that Mr Gupta pulled it off extremely well my favorite part of the collection were these dramatic trains that came after the dresses acne Studios is no longer just jeans and cotton twill anymore all of that is still there with beautifully simple cuts and materials but this Innovative oil slick treatment is incredibly cool looking and kind of is emblematic of how the brand is developing there were a few really out there details like these bias cut pants their bags are also actually pretty underrated and very well-considered scandy simplicity at its finest the Dutch Maverick Ronald Vander Kemp reminds us once again of the possibilities that can come about with creative limitation utilizing entirely recyc and secondhand materials to create Couture when he puts his ethics first in this way Ronald kind of gives himself this gargantuan goal that should be impossible to achieve yet time and again he proves that the most ferocious of limitations can create exceptional results this look in particular is absolutely fantastic last but not least Tre Paradis told me about how his clothes are about self-confidence and turning ideas of how Grandeur is expressed through history into modern clothing that's very often inspired by '90s hip-hop culture this concludes our first Paris Fashion Week lightning round it is finally time for Robert Woon I've been really happy with the progress that he's made changing up his aesthetic since he switched to the Couture calendar we all initially knew Robert for his almost like pleated armor look and he seems to be trying to find a new language now that he's on the Couture calendar I'm really excited to see where he takes the next step of this because Robert's demonstrating more and more that there is a Wellspring of ideas to explore this went incredibly well okay was it uh I don't know you know I'm hiding here so I have no idea hope it was well it went incredibly well yeah it's incredible to me how much your your look has changed since you first started coming out before you were even doing Runway shows can you tell me a little bit about kind of freezing time a little bit cuz there was something like there's a lot of fire that obviously was not fully moving rain droplets that are standing still and everything is there anything to do with time or just natural elements maybe it's something to do with time but it's absolutely not deliberate you know I think it's me trying to process those visuals that I have you know that encapsulate me for examp a slow motion way of raindrops and the way the fire glows you know and how people in cinemas and the way they make movies would create such a beautiful vision for something that is so natural and organic I always feel that's the best thing about human creativity something that is just there and you manage to turn them into Beauty and I think that's what I want to do with my collection as well the way that like a film director would say no if the lighting is like this then the rain will look a certain way how many more frames in a second you're doing moment yeah I think so yeah I hope so yeah yeah I mean well yeah it worked um there's almost a feeling of like the kind of like over over over epicness that you feel in like video games with some of the uh the characters that you put out there almost like a final fantasy boss kind of thing is that anything that you have connection with it from your childhood uh I am a game player like I I play TV games a lot you know definitely and also isn't that also one of the greatest thing of human invention right to imagine something like that you know absolutely I think there's something very enor to me as well you know I grew up with it you know always imagin it especially kids from Asia we grew up with bare animation bare animation so you will always have that especially if you enjoyed it you know and the patterns were beautiful man thank you very much writing over to this show is actually pretty stressful because we going to Dule which I found out recently is pronounced Dule it's not dublet it's Dule I was a little freaked out because we checked the address and we were like oh it's the same place as last time and last time they had the show outside they were the only brand that did an outdoor show and we were freezing cold less cold because they gave us baby blankets but still like it was cold so now we've just arrived and we've confirmed that this is not an outdoor show and I am completely relieved because I have a much lighter jacket than last time and it is colder than last time it's most playful brand in Paris let's go see d is known for its light-hearted irony everything's a joke here's a pair of pants that looks like you're on the shoulders of a bear let's try not to take ourselves too seriously so in this season it appeared to be a lot more serious I was initially unsure why like that's a really big departure for a brand that's made this and this you know their clever spins are still there like there's this commentary on health and wellness here and this is somewhat defined by posture bracing gear which made me laugh like this lifting belt that says not for gym in the Gold's Gym font and there's also this back support belt like the kind that you have to wear after you lift your own Furniture incorrectly there's like acupuncture and acupressure mapping printed onto clothing and Graphics that look like the incredibly vague and hilarious Graphics from like Icy Hot and volaran ads about places where your body hurts and how the cream penetrates deeply shifting gears a little bit there's also this emphasis on American Athletic wear like tattered sports bras and leggings on men a yoga mat makes an appearance this hoodie has a towel there's a plain pillow with a hoodie that can kind of vaguely be put into this health and wellness category and this long zip-up hoodie is encouraging good sleeping habits by riffing on the Gap the bags this season also feature the graphic design nightmare of neutraceutical and whey protein packaging and then in another category of detail hex nuts are on collars and the lapels of jackets and coats in a similar way to the way that like Frankenstein's monster is rendered in most media with like the neck bolts we know that masayuki I know loves stranger things so he definitely wasn't going to leave out an opportunity to turn the demogorgan into a hoodie kind of a liberal definition of hoodie but it's a it's a hoodie and come to think of it honestly like all of these clothes sport Frankenstein esque patterning and style lines purposefully like cobbled together at the hands of Mr IO so like knowing all this this show must be some like commentary on the health and wellness Industries and how we're sold a bunch of BS products and that somehow ties us into being zombies that are made up of the sum of protein powder and acupuncture and back braces and Pain Relief cream Honestly though like this is my theory dle isn't doing cynical irony I don't think this isn't some like cutting point of view about like health and wellness culture there's another brand for that whose Bleak but relatable commentary has had fashion critics questioning what happens after the postmodern era of fashion Demis Balenciaga is like within itself it's poking fun at people who buy it like the consumer is part of the punchline on some level but like from a historic perspective like the the continuation of fashion history what is the next step after just deep cynical irony where do you go from that duuple found maybe one of the only answers You parody the postmodern parody shows are not new to fashion like McQueen's Horn of Plenty show famously ripped on Gallo's body of work at Dior at the time with this like super intense lipstick application the very aggressive posing and the mountain of trash in the center of the runway it was all uh kind of mean-spirited like to be honest like it as far as like the original mood boards were concerned if this dubé show wasn't a parody of Balenciaga I would be shocked I mean like come on the belts are so damn close to the Balenciaga ones the workout gear is very much in line with the Balenciaga La show that happened recently like the hotel robe the pre-distressed jeans the monster-like exaggerated makeup seem like an over the toop take on the ultra fake and kind of plastic Balenciaga look has for their models and if we're being honest I think most of us kind of relish the joke that we become at Balenciaga it's why that brand has become so huge and in turn why to some extent dua's usual light-hearted humor was more welcomed in high fashion spaces but in this postmodern era of fashion that we have found ourselves in like what's next what comes after the Awan leather bag this is dua's answer to that question and it's undercut with the sincerity of the models who emerge makeup free and smiling for the flood like at Dule you're kind of meant to understand that all jokes are made in good fun we're going to see the underground master of big fits like the whitest clothes imaginable it's kind of weird there there are people that just sort of cross my timeline enough that I'm just sort of like oh I should probably be paying attention to this and that definitely is the situation with Lou he's also unbelievably sweet as a person and is one of the only people to pull a mustache correctly how how many years have you been working on your own brand specifically so it took to years uh just to work the concept out and we did it by um literally writing all the things that we don't believe in very long list of negative things and uh we obviously thought we cannot build something from negative so we transform all those negative areas into positives and that's how our ether started we put all our sources and energy into it and um you see like it took us uh so far till here it's interesting that uh fashion is such a a strange industry that you could land in this place by making a list of things you don't want to be because your brand is one of the most like clearly joyful Brands and a little bit of that I think comes from the fact that it looks so good on you and you model it so much on Instagram but like the clothes themselves even on you know models that aren't even alive like the clothes have this kind of Joy emanating from them and a lot of the industry even for stuff that you know you and I might you don't commonly associate a fashion brand with the word Joy so the the idea is that every single pattern that we made we actually uh did it uh by trying on many different people tall fat short small teeny tiny bodies all proportions so we don't have sizes we have volumes that are not meant to look the same on everybody they're meant to look completely different on everybody I kind of want to see what it would look like with the the best part on the outside even when we do the shootings uh um you know the models that we have they style thems they decide what to wear and how to wear it cuz I love the idea of uh people transforming uh a gaming into their World style um to feel comfortable with it so it goes around that cu the idea is that everyone is invited to the party which it doesn't happen often no most people I mean there is something quite magical that happen in the feeding rooms and is um there is a lot of people that never felt they belong so they always felt left out and when they try the clothes on there they like I think it's also the amount of fabric the volume the movement of it that allows them not to think about their buddies self judging their self it's about just freedom and the joy of you said it it's the joy of it cool this is so wonderful thank you so much that's what you mean like that looks very promising in there every season slaps we are going up to Sakai it's interesting because when Brands decide to coat the whole room in light of a certain color it often makes it where the clothes look different and then the photography has to do some like special kick flips to be able to show the lookbook on Vogue Runway but no guarantees they might switch the lights as soon as we walk in there no idea let's go find out we're looking specifically for interesting patterns and storytelling through garment construction if you're remember a few seasons ago there was the simple machines that were built into the outerware we're looking for things like that chose chose AB is the goat I that's that's it that's the whole review we are already very familiar with the hybridization of different types of garments that sakay is kind of known for but I want to talk about that a little bit more because chos is not just saying like we had shirt and then I added as the same garment pants and so now we have Shan that wouldn't be like that would that'd be a terrible idea Sakai does the you know the good version of that and it's because of the emphasis on genre and when we talk about genre in any medium really is an arbitrary way to just talk about a set of shared attributes all genre is subjective even when a stranger on Twitter is trying to tell you that future garage is not the same as acid house you idiot because the hardware that's used to modulate the synthesizers is genres are by their nature somewhat subjective mixing genres isn't particularly difficult to do but it's really hard to do well you have to see the intersection between two disparate categories and you have to create the bridge between them and like the medieval version of Hips Don't Lie just isn't going to be enough there there is true blending that has to occur and that means a professional familiarity with both genres you're trying to discuss like I mean if you're a pop star infus using Opera into your next album is is likely just going to be a mistake but chatos a Bridges between and and blends dozens of different genres of dress and she does it between 40 and 65 times every three months it is not an overstatement when I tell you that chatto's way of working is just really really difficult like if we're just talking about goals that artists set for themselves chos has kind of dangerously thrown the Baton so high in the air that meeting that consistently especially considering she does both prapor and men's it's hard to do but man she she does it she seamlessly marries Tech wear with classical tailoring with work wear with knitwear with women's wear with men's wear with swimwear with loungewear with outerwear with sleepwear Yes actually for real sleepware these two looks are clearly pajamas and despite how insanely different all of these genres of dress are and despite how radically different the most commonly used Fabrics are among all of the different dress genres A's final result looks like none of those genres in particular it just looks like the Transcendence of genre itself who needs a bunch of boxes anyway when you have a peaco bomber and a skirt all together like you know a hoodie and a coat with both button and toggle closures I've personally never really considered the intersection between like pleat and zippers but the final two looks make me so happy that somebody did did think of that and outside of an attempt at you know commercial product this is a a pre-fall show after all something new that chose seems to be trying is this like thing that I can only describe as like either opening and closing blinds or like those holographic cars that you can look at in One Direction but then when you shift it slightly it's like oh Charizard is covered in fire now like this look makes you question whether you're standing at the correct angle to see a military jacket or if you should shift slightly and now it's a Pico like it's not technically an optical illusion but it's it's something like that I guess it's a great evolution of this curled page detail that we saw in previous Collections and I would say that idea has been kind of perfected in this show I love this at this point I'm starting to think that it's on purpose B always shows the earliest that they can possibly show and we always do the backstage stuff beforehand so we have to wake up extra early and go in there but that gets balanced out by like the hardest soundtrack back in Paris Fashion Week B consistently brings the coolest music ever I like their clothes a lot too but like the thing that always like shakes me up is that they actually turn the volume way up it's sick but also seems to thrive on Backstage activity it's like a zoo back there everybody is like getting dressed every everything is super chaotic but it's like really wholesome it it really feels like they're like so proud of what they've accomplished that they want everyone to document it as much as possible it's it is a very wholesome energy and also ly and Rush are like the two calmest designers in Paris Fashion Week I have never seen designers so like Mindful and calm minutes before a show starts it's crazy being now on the other side of the show it is time for celebration since I first heard about B I have been waiting for one thing in particular we finally get the hell hoodie back I cannot tell you how big of a deal this is for me this graphic is how I discovered the ocean conscious work of lcy Haren brew and rushy B who take C and inspiration and have managed to turn a whole world out of it it's been a Wellspring of ideas this season that kind of emerges in the color palette where these earthy underwater tones are mixed with these bright man-made Blues reflecting both like a beautiful landscape and the gear that we've created to coexist in that landscape like things like wet suits and flippers and stuff this is actually my favorite use of color from the brand to date you really feel this Collision of Worlds and just like in real life it it works here but like my single favorite part of this collection is the 19th century technique of needle punching which can combine two different jackets with this white wool seam that reflects frothy waves I really like it especially on the sleeves it kind of adds this organic element to B's otherwise like vicious offerings and if you know anything about B it's probably because of their spectacular Footwear and it's a strong consistent shoe offering that until very recently was only Runway prototypes made in a large enough quantity for the show itself those very shoes are back this season and it's finally made it into product that is no small feet the Rubik's cube of how to get Runway samples manufactured is a complicated process all of their other concept shoes have been in collaboration with Reebok including a new shoe this season that combines the silhouette and shape of a soccer cleat with the rounded heel of a climbing shoe which leads me to seeing a more Blended vision of their Caribbean and Dutch Roots than in previous Seasons we've actually started to see this motif of the B bike seat and reflector appear in more recent shows a bike being kind of a Seaside vacation staple and kind of a vehicle of choice in rushim and Le's home city of Amsterdam football and rock climbing are common pastimes in both Europe and in the Caribbean more than in previous Seasons B seems to be focusing on how to blend all of the different places that they derive inspiration from with the goal of creating something that is truly new we are now going over to yanyan Vanessa we're no longer in the freezing cold part of the week but we're still in the nasty weather part of the week a huge part of their company's culture is food um where for example in their Studio every day someone is assigned to make lunch for the group and occasionally they do a friends and family lunch it's pretty common in fashion for Brands to do a friends and family just people who are close to the brand like take them to dinner take them to lunch but it's always exactly that take them to lunch whereas with yanan they their team prepares the food and it's just it's the best am I standards for food are pretty high I mean I I have a Lebanese mother-in-law like I'm picky so we're meeting for the first time here this is yanan Vanessa hey I think you're actually with this interview you're you're officially the most interviewed person we've ever had I think I think this you're the record holder now as of this one can you tell me about um because I know that the way you typically do things correct me if I'm wrong here but my understanding is that you there are certain pieces that sell pretty well and maybe things you want to slowly improve upon that kind of are repeats that you will bring back and then every season there's a few projects or sometimes many pieces that are completely new ideas can we start by kind of running through a few of the new ideas for that are unique to this season there are mean especially fabrics for first so that's all quite Fabrics definitely count the first piece I made this collection was this long coat for instance which is also on the on the manin it's based on a summer jacket which was a short jacket with a drawring in the in the waist and stuff but it's a new pattern game that I did by with tilting the front front is is Twisted diagonal even though it's attached to the back and that why you get a bit of a let's say hourglass silhouette very subtle but it's in there I twist the pattern piece and and make the front fall diagonal actually because there's no s SC so that was the first piece and then actually out of this one came the hood piece because I first wanted I was doubting should I make it hooded or not and then I thought don't have to choose like this so um those two are the most the newer pieces this is also quite a new piece like the the pullover double breasted anarak and then this fabric yeah I was about to say we need to talk about that that's a jakar denim with a let's say tiger camouflage Motif I liked it because yeah I mean it's an army thing kind of a let's say sign of the time but on the other hand it also has a certain kind of funniness almost that I'm usually not automatically working with and it's interesting cuz Tiger Camo to me has always struck me as that's the type of camo that is most like little boys are attracted to it where cuz it's always the one that's in the really wild bright Reds and yellows and stuff plural yeah but like this is very um it's extremely subdued it almost kind of like if you blur your eyes a little bit almost looks like it's has like a layer of cobwebs over it like yeah or like a cracked wax kind of thing it it's very earthy looking whereas usually Tiger Camo is looks very man-made this fabric was on my table for a while but I was like how am I going to make this fit into our universe this steady it's a natural 100% wool like natural D I mean not diet and so I thought yeah if we do the kind of leather muton rout kind of classic jacket we could make it fit into the collection and it's fully reversible so if you if you turn it you really have this thing that's very uh on Vogue right now yeah have the but fully reversible cool questions that kind of go outside of the specifics of the collection I feel like I've asked you all like the major ones that are applicable to a designer that is that does what you do but I I kind of want to know what you've learned over the course of making this last season about yourself or about being a a leader of a company or about textiles or what what have you learned what was nice is that have more trust in in what I do in a way like it it feels there's a certain confidence in the product as it is the company as it turns the there's a kind of stability in it that especially in the shapes because before I did always very heavy research on patterns and now I'm like yeah I don't have to reinvent things that I find still still good like the moment that I will get bored with it and then and and that it needs refreshing I will do it but for now the shapewise I'm I feel good like this is really what I want to do and then it's really nice to be able to delve deeper into for instance the Fabrics or other aspects so this kind of feeling of certain stability also this season we I started earlier than normal like two 3 weeks earlier and we kind of kept that advanced the whole time and it was so calm to work like a whole season like I'm on schedule like I was like ah it takes 26 collections to learn I would have never guessed starting earlier yeah crazy we should try that rocket science we always have outstanding conversations and yanan is always so generous with his knowledge the full conversation is live right now on the patreon go join it up and hear that along with a metric ton of other interviews I don't know what part of the video this is appearing in but let me be clear this is our first Oak Couture show we are going to see rahu Mishra there are a lot of brands that show on the Couture calendar that I'm happy to admit that I'm not familiar with but excited to learn about rul is someone that I have been aware of for years we are going very high on the the technique here and if you're one of the people who watches every video that we put out you have seen R's work as well I am very excited to come to a better understanding of what his goals are let's go see and upon arrival I discovered that the show notes for this collection were actually presented in the form of a poem I'm actually familiar with this poem and it's an absolutely beautiful one I think it would be incredibly appropriate for us to listen to this poem together while we look at the collection so this is snake by DH Lawrence a snake came to my water trough on a hot hot day and I in pajamas for the heat to drink there in the Deep strange scented shade of the Great Dark carob tree I came down the steps with my pitcher and must wait must stand and wait for there he was at the trough before me he reached down from a fissure in the earth wall in the Gloom and Trail his yellow brown slackness soft belly down over the edge of the stone trough and rested his throat upon the stone bottom and where the water had dripped from the tap in small clearness he sipped with his straight mouth softly drank through his straight gums into his slack long body silently someone was before me at my water trough and I like a second Comer waiting he lifted his head from drinking as cattle do and looked at me vaguely as drinking cattle do and flicked his two forked tongue from his lips and mused a moment and stooped and drank a little more being Earth Brown Earth golden from the burning bowels of Earth on the day of Sicilian July with Etna smoking the voice of my education said to me he must be killed for in Sicily the black black snakes are innocent the gold are venomous and voices in me said if you were a man you would take a stick and break him now and finish him off but must I confess how I liked him how glad I was that he came like a guest and quiet to drink at my water trough and depart peaceful pacified and thankless into the burning bowels of this Earth was it cowardice that I dared not kill him was it perversity that I longed to talk to him was it humility to feel so honored I felt so honored and yet those voices if you were not afraid you would kill him and truly I was afraid I was most afraid and even so honored still more that he should seek my Hospitality from out of the Dark Door of the secret earth he drank enough and lifted his head dreamily as one who is drunken and flicked his tongue like a forked Knight on the air so black seeming to lick his lips and looked around like a god unseeing into the air and slowly turned his head and slowly very slowly as if Thrice a dream proceeded to draw his slow length curving round and climb again the broken Bank of my wall face and as he put his head into that Dreadful hole and as he slowly Drew up snake easing his shoulders and entering farther a sort of horror a sort of protest against his withdrawing into that horrid black hole deliberately going into the Blackness and slowly drawing himself after overcame me now his back was turned I looked around I put down my pitcher I picked up a clumsy log and threw it at the water trough with a clatter I think it did not hit him but suddenly that part of him that was left behind convulsed in an undignified haste wed like lightning and was gone into the black hole the Earth lipped fissure in the wall front at which in the intense still noon I stared with Fascination and immediately I regretted it I thought how poultry how vulgar what a mean act I despised myself in the voices of my accursed human education and I thought of the albatross and I wished he would come back my snake for he seemed to me like a king like a king in Exile uncrowned in the Underworld now due to be crowned again and so I missed my my chance with one of the Lords of life and I have something toate a pettiness tormina we had to wake up extra early to ensure that every box got checked for the Dior show now it is a 30 minute drive One Direction pickup invitations 30 minutes drive back and then a 5-minute walk from our Airbnb we remember that last season for the women's show Daniela had to go get special security clearance this time we needed our physical invites and we had to go pick them up from a hotel across town Bliss okay another one Daniel perfect thank you guys so when you're planning what you're going to wear for a day at Fashion Week you usually pick one brand and say like oh I'm most excited for that or I have an outfit that can go for that and then maybe your outfit doesn't look exactly right for other shows that you're going to today I clearly am not dressed for Christian Dior but it's fine it's going to be fun I'm sorry Kim the walk up to these shows is always fascinating men's week is much less hyped than women's week of course and the January men's week is even more low-key because it's just super cold people don't want to travel as much in January Etc but it does not matter at [Applause] Dior outside of these shows is the only place during Fashion Week that can consistently be described as Thunderdome esque but that is never what we are here for we are here to talk about the clothes so the inspiration here is actually pretty cool let's let's get into this so this is Colin Jones this is Kim Jones's late Uncle he was a photographer this man took some unbe believable photos really really evocative stuff everyone at the Dior show walked away with a photo book that Kim made to honor his uncle do we have that thing upstairs yeah I'll go get it everybody who went to the show walked away with a photo book that he published to honor his late uncle and I love this thing this is this is really great I'm glad I have it many years ago Colin Jones did a photo profile on the famous ballet dancer named Rudolph nurv Rudolph was a pretty massive style icon in his own right but importantly Rudolph danced with another famous ballet dancer Margo Fontaine she was a Dior client and wore a particularly beautiful gown that the history books now refer to as debsy so this woman here is actually not the the dancer it's not miss Fontaine this is a model and Mr Dior himself preparing for a show in the 1950s you may be wondering why that is relevant so this collection is actually two collection one is Men's Wear it's exactly what we're expecting the other one for the first time in Dior men's history is men's Couture and it's interesting that this is being done now and so quietly like I mean maybe you saw this on Instagram or Twitter the same day that it came out nobody was shouting from the rooftops like oh it's a Couture men's show cuz I mean first of all Dior doesn't do a whole lot quietly it's like not really part of their their brand guidelines but Kim Jones could hold a men's Couture show separately no problem they absolutely have the budget for that but he's deliberately chosen to mix his idea of men's Couture and men's predor and to not make much specification as to which piece goes with which collection this is where the Rudolph ner of inspiration comes in the strongest we're kind of invited to think about the Couture and the ready to wear as having the contrast of on stage versus backstage that like the Couture pieces are meant to be for the all eyes on me moments like the time that become career defining that's the Couture while the the standard ready to wear items are those that the same artist might wear to prepare for those onstage moments onstage versus backstage dancers often have to have a very specific style because of the physical demands of their work so this show brought a lot of wide cut shorts and these zipup knits that might recall the ease of a leotard though I I might be stretching a bit there as always even when the inspiration goes way outside the world of suiting suits are always the focus at Dior men they've always got to keep a healthy roster of alternative inspiration in the works because you know 50 looks of single and double breasted suits doesn't really translate well to a Runway setting even if the suits themselves are excellent so that's where we get things like these like kind of like dance shoes that are here but are being incorporated into looks that are are meant to you know it's a little bit of an off-duty look but it it's meant to be suiting and this is I mean this is kind of why inspiration for Runway shows is so crucial is because otherwise stuff like this would kind of come off as like oh we just you know got the the random garment generator and sort of said like oh suits with Mary Janes let's do that but then when you're able to see this kind of consistency from look to look and the whole collection does have this the same bones to it it ends up feeling a lot more natural and by extension it feels more natural as something that you could try in your own life while there's no official guide to which pieces are Couture here Kim does call out a few pieces in particular so the deay dress serves as the primary inspiration for this look here and of course it's been updated in a kind of masculine iteration according to the show notes there's no major comparisons on the shape that I can see but we can see the silk net embroidered with the sequins and that kind of create this heavy smoke effect I like this piece it's huge it kind of reminds me of when royalty would use clothes as a way to take up as much physical space as possible so that their power could be felt in the room speaking of which uh this is kind of like the The Lazy Susan part of the show where we get to instead of a flood it gets to be like the room is the flood I I've kind of dubbed this thing the mega Susan lazy Susans are for like you know when you're at brunch and you're feeling sleepy but this is the Mega Susan I am Christian Dior behold my Wares I'm still a little sick this is my first time experiencing any work by Kim Jones and I'm actually really excited to learn more next time specifically I'm wanting to get a little bit better acquainted with his standards of fit so that I can kind of do a compare and contrast with the next season fun stuff for next time next up I was stoked to make it over to yuima nakazato who is apparently the only Japanese guest member on the Couture calendar the show itself was so fascinating that as soon as it wrapped I was determined to go speak with uima for more details backstage this was a absolutely beautiful show could you just give us a a basic rundown of the inspiration and then we'll dive a little bit deeper yes so um this Inspirations by idino it's a m Opera it's ancient war and also the which is for me is a connecting with the ancient today and uh evolutions of the the clothing from the ancient armor to today try to bridge together and also I'm designing the costume for Opera Domino so it's actually it's a bridge together Opera and a fashion together that's right so the costume and Opera and also the Fashions mixing and the styring utakata is a title is a very meaning of the very fragile or sensitive or short life objects the armor should be normally it's very tough and strong but I made it made by camic so it's a very sensitive armor so very opposite meaning of their armor weak weakness instead of yeah so there are a lot of meaning yeah and um what what materials did you think were best um I could tell that there was something going on but I couldn't tell exactly what it was what materials served this purpose best so um actually the uniform or workware second hand workware and try to make it powder and then try to B new materials so it's a experimental technique but uh it's up cycling new way of the technique and also the rud protein artificial protein materials those are mixing and somewhere in the collections so latest fibers and latest technique those are sustainable point of view is there any T because obviously a good bit of the show is about calligraphy um is there any any tie between the the design work that you do and calligraphy cuz you you even kind of graced us with a bit of calligraphy yourself at the end do you see any similarities between those two art forms well um for me actually yeah was it's gradationally connecting each other like Opera stage design and also the daily Weare actually they all one closer relating each other but of course as sometime part is different of course I need to think about the functionality or body movement to to design thank you so much this is beautiful thank you thank you okay time for one of the few American artisanal designers that we have left we're going up to Zam Barrett uh kind of the the darker side of avanguard fashion it's mostly men's wear but he absolutely does women's wear as well I think he's back in Paris recently I don't think he he's shown in Paris for a while I'm excited to see what's going on there's a lot of changes in his business right now can you introduce yourself please I am Zam and Zam I am to me the the tradition that you come from this kind of like darker edged side of avanguard design which to me is mostly just a genre that allows the the designers to play more you really allow yourself to play and experiment and it's like no wrong answers let's just try it and see what happens can you tell us kind of what part of this collections you were able to sort of play in the most or what you enjoyed the most well I tell people that you don't have to call me a designer but I'm a tinkerer and improvision if you will we were experimenting with weed dying and somebody says well you know is it a gimmick and I'm like why would you consider it to be a gimmick it's about seeing what can be done and and bringing something to the pantheon of fashion that expand the possibilities and if I'm not doing that then there is no point yeah what which one of the weed dyed ones oh well there's none of the weed Dy things here because coming to Paris I didn't want to risk like oh my gosh yeah someone at the airport is like what's this guy doing lock a French jail you know so the the colors of the collection are all inspired by four things or four natural elements from Jamaica which is a part of the weed dying there's something a dirt that is kind of white that is called Marl we refer to it as mall and um it's this whole segment is is based on that uh and then charcoal you know the dark the blacks and the Grays are based upon our experimentation with charcoal dye and then there is uh something called boite which is a red dirt and the the reds are um based on that this wait was this actually dyed with a dirt no okay I was like I I I I don't lie but no no but but what you're saying is that like you you were doing a die technique to go towards that dirt no we did it in Jamaica okay and and doing um the production of the collection like a lot of the green stuff is going to be weed died wow a lot of the red stuff is going to be boite died a lot of the the the stuff here is actually going to be charcoal died when we are doing it in Jamaica because I'm building a factory in Jamaica now and a lot of our production is going to happen there but I'm saying I didn't get time to go to Jamaica before doing this collection and so the inspiration that I had we carried it over by actually dying this keeping the color pallette the same color pallette of the results that we originally got with the experimentation are you the only brand in the are you going to be the only brand in the world whose tags will say made in Jamaica yes that's crazy yes yes there is a lot of skilled labor there it's increasingly becoming cost prohibitive to continue to make stuff in New York I will always make stuff in New York but authenticity means a lot to me and I think that the most authentic thing that I can do to basically solve a lot of the problems that I'm having with the company is to produce in Jamaica it it it's an extension of who I am like the unrefined n but durability of the work is a testament of why I'm not from a place of refinement like I tell people that I may be a brilliant person but I'm not particularly a sophisticated person in a certain sense like what Society considers traditionally sophisticated I'm from the streets I grew up in the ghettos of Jamaica but I was fortunate enough that I was given a brilliant mind so I'm adaptable I'm eclectic it's just like the the the airline lost my suitcase with my personal clothes I have no personal clothes here and I was laughing about it and people are like why are you laughing I'm like well I'm built to survive under any condition so this is just like you've seen tougher show yeah one more of those things where I just got to figure it out and keep it moving walking up to Orly this is a Tokyo based brand and it's on the most like wild card day of the week which is day one so super excited also it is um it's really cold once every few years there's a runway show that kind of breathes life into normal clothes I remember sitting there during this show specifically and thinking oh I like that and nodding and then I like that and nodding like just as each look past I just thought oh that's great okay that looks good no that looks great I think I've kind of garnered a reputation for not being big on value assessments about Runway shows especially while I'm watching them live and this one it really was just that I was like this is a solid proposal for a complete wardrobe there's even more normal life stuff in the kind of you know like out there styling that's here like people with overnight bags people carrying folded garment bags people carrying dry cleaning detrius like from the perspective of your wardrobe these are the only normal things for people to be carrying right and really classical styling for a Runway can kind of cause the audience to miss the small details when they're there so let's kind of go through and point out some highlights here this Dusty pistachio is a color that we're obviously seeing a lot of this year but this is a incredible treatment of the color we have a great combination of these sherbet colors in the knits here especially from the back like look at that Flawless execution there's also a few really great playful combinations in the show like this look okay so this look to me really convincingly looks like someone had their whole outfit planned and then they were about to leave their apartment and they were like oh it's raining okay this is these these clothes are brand new I am not willing to get this rained on well I was going to look cool today I guess I got to wear the raincoat but then it just like ends up looking great as an addition to the outfit like it it looks like it was begrudgingly put on but then has this True Grit real life that looks excellent quality to it I am obviously not a stylist but I imagine that moves like this and being able to convincingly create that moment this has got to be like the the Super Bowl kickflip of styling can't do it without good clothes too we've never seen an or show before this one I'm actually really excited to see this work develop next season okay so I'd have to double check but I think this is the first time that I've ever gone to meet a designer wearing the designer's clothes I don't think I've literally ever done that before but we're going up to meet Edward now in his showroom I'm wearing Edward's suit today I wanted a casual suit that kind of could be worn without looking like I was like going to work even though I'm I'm literally at work right now and Edward has a really particular Vision that's carried out in a really specific way hopefully we'll get some insights about that here so I think overall the brand it it started with an idea of trying to explore um a a more sensitive side in masculinity I think that was a lot of my work at St Martin's where I did my Master's Degree was focused on that it was taking tailoring shapes uh archetypal wardrobe things for men um and rendering them in really soft really kind of yeah tactile Fabrics washing them treating them I really interested in in sort of Decay and and the sensitivity of afraid Edge so how does this one kind of set itself apart from the other collections or is there may be just the fact that it's like it's a wardrobe and I'm slowly kind of building and perfecting in the context of our body of work I think um it's a bit darker this is the first time I've sort of been working with sort of earthier tones can you walk me through maybe three or four pieces that you really like and kind of igna of the brand or of this collection specifically I'll start with this shirt um so I think since the beginning um this sort of cutting out washing technique has been pretty integral to the brand so I mean previously uh our sort of signature shape if I can just grab it from VI is this sort of we call it the lung window shirt this is now in a women's in a women's size um so it's this sort of circular two circular kind of cutouts that we layer Fabric and then we wash all of the fabric the whole piece as you know together and then cut through to reveal the layers underneath um so this piece this season feels like a new kind of Step um and advancement on that so it's much more intense there's a lot more stitching a lot more work we kind of wanted to create something that felt a bit like a Vortex on the body um cuz for me this sort of idea came about through wanting to kind of break up the proportions of the body um in one Garin not relying on too many layers to create something that feels layer Weir and and kind of yeah I'll get this out cuz this piece for me feels like it doesn't have a brother or a sister or any family inside the collection we did these really big gorgeous double wool duffel coats last season and we had some fabric left over and it's a really expensive really really high quality Fabric and I thought it's just such a shame not to keep using it so I was quite happy with the with the evolution of how we've made this into the sort of padded winter mini skirt um I think I'm highl it's a mini skirt it's never heavy like like a winter type stuff but you you yeah because it's so short but like that's wonderful that you've embraced it it's so structural looking I think it's yeah it's that kind of that interesting contrast between something that's providing warmth but we're revealing so much of the body in the piece itself um so yeah I I think I'd highlight this as just sort of it's a rogue piece but for me it brought everything together so I'm happy it made it the final cut very cool this is wonderful man thank you so much oh thank you guys yeah and now for something completely different it is time for kid super funny story we missed the last kid Super Show because there was a riot outside oh no okay wait we missed the last kid Super Show because we got married and we were on our honeymoon but the one before that we missed because there was a riot outside this brand has been really effective at generating hype and it's one thing to generate hype in the city where you started in like if you're like an LA brand and like La people just go crazy for you and stuff that's one thing but like who whoa you okay you good for the record I did not trip that child that child stepped on the ball wrong and then fell but yeah it's one thing to generate hype in your own City or maybe even your own country depending on the country but to be able to generate that hype cuz kid super is a native New York brand to generate that hype internationally that's that's hard to do so we'll see what happens every single season from kid super is wildly different so we are uh we're in for it let's go kid super stayed the course this season most of their shows are ODS to creativity like we had the what do you want to do before you die idea where they fulfilled people's wishes we had the actual Art Auction show where column delay's own paintings were being sold during a live Runway performance to a real audience that was bidding we had the standup show where actual comedians were given the shortest set of their life 2 minutes and also modeling the clothes colum recently hosted a what seemed to be a pretty large SC stage play the through line is just large scale creative projects right so this season colum took a metaphor for kid super at large and used that metaphor as the basis for the set design and a few pieces in the collection itself now I know that my my real contribution what people really come to me for is brief summaries of large scientific Concepts so I'm going to give the people what they want uh this is what String Theory means folks it is not a proven thing it is more of an idea that scientists made up so that other unexplainable things could make sense together string theory has become a bouncing off point so that other science guys can keep having other ideas you're welcome so that's what kid super is right it's a starting off point and it's an outlet for column and the rest of the team to do large scale projects the string theory metaphor continued in little details like some strings were very lwh hanging so that the models who walked past them sort of created this butterfly effect in the rafters and there were obviously bigger moments like there was a sweater that was being pulled apart by a single thread of yarn which we happen to be just in the perfect place to get the money shot for and I will not under any circumstances make a Weezer joke I will not make a Weezer joke colum delay is a fashion Outsider and he's one of the only Outsider designers that uses that status specifically to a purpose he's essentially our industry Avatar of chaos he was sent to Earth to mess things up a little bit in fashion for how extra we all are as people our medium of art can often be pretty conservative we usually exercise too much caution designers in the industry have to really stop and consider before they push things forward by 15% colum is here every 6 months to remind everyone that it is entirely within their reach to push the envelope by 550% and then do it again given another 25 weeks okay so if somehow you have made this far I cannot tell you how incredibly grateful I am for you doing that thank you for your time Danielle and I bust our asses during Fashion Week to bring you as much coverage and as many interviews as we possibly can we both really firmly believe that small designers deserve a place in fashion media and they deserve a the kind of coverage that can actually get them new fans as you might imagine making massive videos about dozens of fashion brands in Paris four times a year is pretty expensive to to fund and requires a lot of full-time attention on this channel we are very proudly independent and we always will be but ultimately we can't do that entirely by ourselves all I ever ask from our viewers is that they put into this project what they get out of it so if this is something that has helped you in some kind of way if this is something that's inspired you in a huge way if this is something that's gotten you started on a new project or just thinking about things in a different way I'd ask that you reflect that change in yourself on the patreon so you can put that back into the channel there's tons of perks you get on the private Discord server you get to watch a lot of the exclusive interviews that we have you get to watch the extended versions of those you get to watch exclusive episodes on the patreon But ultimately I would hope that you would support this because you want to see independent fashion journalism Thrive I am thrilled to say that we will be leaving in two more weeks here to cover pred aorte at Paris fashion week and I am really excited to share everything that comes from that with you as well infinite love love you all a ton I'll see you soon

Channel: Bliss Foster

Views: 252,915

Keywords: Rick Owems, Rick Owne, Rick Ownes shoes, Valentino, Super Bowl

Id: MQW2ACp_RN0

Length: 111min 23sec (6683 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 12 2024