The Story Behind John Galliano’s Viral 2024 Maison Margiela Show | Vogue

I did not expect the response it was so great to see the whole world become obsessed no I've never experienced a show that goes viral that's the first time I [Music] think the first time I met John gallano I saw him across the room I thought I can't allow this moment to pass it was one of those nights I was leaving a club with Kate all fine all fine and then this gwendaline came out from the bows of the club I remember alxi was with us and I was like s jumped in the C disappeared but never forgot that image John's work has been hugely influential to me since I was a te teenager and John was extraordinarily kind and said that he hoped that we would work together one day I've been a fan of gendlin's for a long long time she didn't know and I think in one of those banters we were having I said you know we've met before and she went completely red Oh I thought you would never you'd forgotten that you was quite sweet this is the first time I've walked in one of John gallano shows even saying that feels so bizarre she put the time in she came in for the fitting three or four times trips to London sueta malls the undergarments the corset training and created the dress on her really it's really influenced me more greatly than perhaps I can even convey wild imagination but coupled with real craftsmanship those things coming together and creating true artistry [Music] well my research books I love the way they're all pinned out like little butterflies uh you can help yourself you can flip through and and see there's uh research on dolls van dong and as what you know some of the makeup um ideas that we played with and the colors over here it's like a cabinet of curiosity so we have a julip coret the Ethel corset the CA and these are for boys and girls happy to discuss some of the um the newness if you like or some of the new techniques retrograding the idea that you could almost treat the subject wearing the dress like a line drawing so imagine you start with just a crayon at the top and that crayon becomes more intense as you get to the waist then through color and fabric and a electr grade of techniques you build up the three-dimensionality of that dress was like degrade it's a degrade of line degr of technique degr of textures when I saw the collection I saw quite how beautiful it was The Innovation with the Fabrics The Narrative the storytelling the emotion when I saw all of those things it connected back to what his work has brought me at that level of dress making which is the highest form of dress making just once a year because of the time it involves the structures the substructures you all the engineering especially building a dress on a redefined body shape that's what I wanted to do it was inspired by many references I looked at the brass ey photographs that's what he talked about and I knew those photographs very well because I've been quite obsessed with them when I was around 20 I used to stare at those photographs and think about who the people were and what the stories were what had been happening once we had redefined the body shape it was only then that I could start to build the dress So it always had to come back to that waist measurement of course it otherwise the dress wouldn't fit I'd already started to work with curvier girls on cure private orders I wanted to do that more so I I I embraced it I absolutely embrac it the casting was all inclusive I thought the casting was spectacular I thought it was really great because we saw so many different types of people what was incredibly modern about the show was that it was exploring a totally different silhouette from one we're used to seeing the different morphology it was just so exciting and so challenging everything was uh you know you had to find an answer you had to work it out I am extremely tall and I'm certainly not sample size and I thought it was beautifully radical for John to amplify and intensify my size and my proportions and change them and really be extreme about what I am and who I [Music] am well Pat McGrath is also a genius I know that can be an overused phrase but it's it's used rightfully so with Pat we became friends because she found me in a nightclub years ago and I was wearing a look of hers and she said I love your makeup I want to take a photograph of you at that time I didn't know what Pat McGrath looked like so just this woman had taken a photograph of me we talked about makeup and afterwards someone said that was Pat McGrath and I went no I really missed out on a on a huge moment well I remember it was early January and we had you know I had my briefing and then John just told me this amazing story you know we were going to be under a bridge he showed me the lighting and then also showed me all of these Incredible characters was such incredible detail and then John showed me this porcelain doll and he was like I'd love to take it to Glass Skin So instantly I knew we were going to have to find something completely new and different I knew we were going to have to take it there we've been working on something that we call Marella's skin for a long time now one of The Inspirations was the china doll so so it's something we've gradually been working towards but here was the opportunity to really go for it so um I said let's go for it once you're told you have to do a new skin that has never existed before you know you have to develop something that is out of this world we started with the look the look was kind of more matte we kept trying to add more shine but it just to me it looked like something we'd already seen before it was all about the designs the weight how do you make skin look like porcelain it was really measured and how the makeup is applied and the lightness and like we said we couldn't do anything that was clown white it had to be very subtle that took a lot of working out just from a point of view of timing so I think to begin though there was seven layers seven layers and the effect was just like wow you know when when the girls the boys and girls walked in we were just like blown over we went into the Marg offices and then we showed the first look with the new glass skin and everybody was uh standing overation by the whole team to come into this Marella show and see that she had pushed the boundaries even further she had taken the idea of a filter which is obviously Ai and digital she' taken something from the digital realm and brought it into the Physical Realm this is something entirely [Music] new very soon I realized that you know with the undergarments that we were using and the corsetry and the hair and the makeup that we actually needed a military style planning to get all my Muses ready on time so I said you know can you cut off some of the time pack can you bring it down so she went back St toly with her team and they got it down and then they got it down again in the end I will say with the team and myself they had it down to around half an hour cuz we had to be quick we cannot be late really and truly I would say that the look could take about an hour and a [Music] half I think when I started I'd already planned it out upstairs where we normally show and then it suddenly dawned on us that we'd run out of space to do it indoors I actually discovered that place on one of my early morning jogs then inquired if it was possible to do something there and I was told no and then got a no again then the more I couldn't get it the more I wanted it you know how it is cuz I just love the address the idea that we'd invite Our Guest to this fantastic address and then take them downstairs this dank kind of underbelly under the bridge um with with the sound of the river the E and flow and that muffled sound of and people above the bridge and oh it was like the audio that I needed for my characters something in my work as an actress is that when I go on set I want to be in a world and I'll do whatever I can to create that world and often I'll need to use my imagination to its fullest to really immerse in that world but with what John had created I didn't have to so much do that work I it be Fab to actually have them look like they're coming back from a night out or what there was a bit of a vampire story underneath all that too they had to get back before midnight I did not expect the response to be as big as it was at all I did not think there would be this tsunami of absolute love it was so great to see the whole world become obsessed trying to make this glass skin and it was like I said it was heartwarming it was beautiful to see and at the same time I was shocked the reaction after I mean normally I just you know I grab my dogs and I'm and I'm out and in the car but um I was informed that something had gone down yes the kids that were dressing up with pillows and Dad's coats and doing the Leon War as a designer you you want to inspire the young ones and the young kids you know I it's amazing to get reviews but to actually you know leave one of these venues go home and you see a kid has switched his raincoat back to front charging down the street and you think yeah I've done something here that that makes me really happy but you know what was amazing was that a few of my friends said Gwen imagine all those kids being being inspired by gallano show like we were growing up and the impact that that had on us imagine it happening [Music] again that's how shows used to be know you go and you get inspired to do it yourself with whatever you had with you it would just inspire you so I think that's um a good nerve to hit I think I'm a fan of fashion I love fashion as a child that was my day out was to go to department stores look at collections with my mother for me to actually live this and see the things I see I bring that inspiration and my passion into all of my work and also to see how everyone works together as teams everybody it's incredible it's beyond dreams [Music]

Channel: Vogue

Views: 626,156

Keywords: behind the moment, john galiano, john galiano couture show, john galiano fashion vogue, john galiano pat mcgrath, john galliano, john galliano couture, john galliano interview, john galliano pat mcgrath, john galliano runway, john galliano show, leon dame, leon dame male model, leon dame runway, leon dame runway footage, maison margiela, margiela spring 2024, oat mcgrath makeup, pat mcgrath, vogue, vogue fashion

Id: jOdtkFbW3qM

Length: 12min 42sec (762 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 16 2024