Welding and Machining Parts (Wadkin Planer Guard)

a few weeks back a friend reached out to me who's doing a planar restoration on an early 1900s what complainer he wanted to know if i could make a guard for him so that way when he and other people are using it it could be safe in today's video i'm going to be showing you how we make that guard we're going to be doing some milling on the mill and then some lathe work and even some surface grinding let's jump right in the first thing we need to do is make this base plate here's a 3d rendering here of what we're going to be making we're using a 5 8 end mill we're just trying to get one face cleaned up just so we can get it held in the vise and it's relatively square the first step here is going to be drilling the holes making sure everything is aligned if we reference the diagram these holes need to be about four and one quarter inches apart uh we start by getting everything spotted and then i move over to a half inch drill typically i would step drill this but the accuracy is not that important here so just going to a half inch pit is no problem once these holes are drilled we're going to get the part faced off we're just using a mari tool face mill to get everything cleaned up and roughed out we're then going to move over to a fly cutter and take a pass with that just to make sure everything has a pretty nice finish the fly cutter we're using here is pretty basic it's just a cheap chinese unit i'm using a piece of braised carbide it does the job i tried to get it honed up as best as possible but we will go over this with some scotch brite so the surface finish isn't that crucial although unusual i'm trying a new technique out basically what i'm doing is i'm using a scribe chucked up in the mill to draw some precise outline marks these marks are going to help me line up the next piece that i'm welding on this part calls for an elliptical shape i designed this in fusion 360 and then printed out a one to one scale ratio so i could trace it out and then took it over to the small porta band to get it trimmed out over at the belt grinder we're going to get this thing roughed out and get it as close to the shape as possible using a 24 grit belt something super aggressive just try to get that material hogged out as quick as possible because i'm using a mist over at the belt grinder the sharpie marker does wear off so i decided to bring this over to the bench reapply the template and spray paint over the template so that way i can have a much more defined line to bring in the final shape so now because this is a true ellipse getting a perfect radius on this to match the drawing is the challenge here so i used the belt grinder in the slack belt mode uh to get a chamfer that was slightly rounded and then took it over to the vice and try to get it filed up uh to try to get that round as close to perfect as possible by hand as you can see the file's working out quite well files can be pretty effective when you use them in the right situation as you can see the results pretty good i did clean this up with the scotch brite belt over on the belt grinder but it did turn out really nice the next step is to be making this part uh here in the diagram that connects the base plate to the tube itself so we're getting this chucked up in the middle and we're using that 5 8 carbide end mill just to get everything squared up and then we'll go ahead and take it to size we're going to be welding this plate to that base plate we made in the last section uh right here i'm going to be notching out this plate on both sides to allow plenty of room for a very thick weld bead that way once the weldment is done we'll be able to take it over and remove the weld to smooth everything out without sacrificing the integrity of this part over at the bench i have this propped up on an aluminum block to mitigate the warping and i just laid down a root pass here for the tig we bring it back over to the mill so we can get the bulk of the weld removed and then get everything smoothed out this is a mari tool half inch end mill and i'm making several passes you can kind of see here there are a couple inclusions in the weld which i'm going to come back and clean those up by just tack welding those in and smoothing them out [Music] this piece actually didn't warp too much but we did flip it over and fly cut the back surface just to keep everything flat and smooth and it ended up turning out pretty nice we're over here at the lathe we're getting ready to make the next component on the same part here's the part we just finished bringing in close alright we got a nice fillet there and then we did a fly cut on the back all right if we take a look at the diagram here bring you up close all right so we're going to be making this guy next all right [Music] we're starting with an outer diameter a little bit less than two and a half inches i'm going to get the outside turned down and then the front faced off and then we'll slowly progress to the point where we can get the hole drilled and go from there using a long spot drill i just use a spot drill to get the hole started and then finish up with a 5 16 drill bit i do need to drill this hole pretty deep so i switched over to a really long drill bit after this guy so i could make the hole go all the way through to the back of the bore [Music] we're using a really large taper shank drill i believe it's 1-5 16. it seems to be working well once i got the speed slowed down and then we're using some missed coolant just to try to keep the bit cool and just try to keep the drilling nice and smooth i've got a 5 8 carbide boring bar chucked up here in the tool post i'm making like 20 to 30 000 depth of cuts we're gonna get this guy bored out so that the inner diameter is around one and a quarter inch i'm using these internal telescoping bore gauges to just check my dimensions and make sure i'm on target [Music] we're going to be parting this off with a cobalt high speed steel parting blade there's a fair amount of chatter as usual so i tried to slow the lathe down and use as much coolant as possible once we did that everything worked out quite well we've got this one inch piece of steel chucked up in the four jaw we're going to be using this to make the bung on the side for the handle to screw into so we just started by getting that guy spotted and then drilled with the drill bit i believe it's also a 5 16 for the pilot and then we're going to move up to a 27 64 which is the drill size for the half 13 tap and then we'll get a hole tapped and then get it parted off we've got this chucked up in the jacobs rubber flex collet i really enjoy this collet chuck that keeps things nice and precise and allows you to work really close with the pallet without any spinning chuck jaws in your way i'm using a mari tool a floating tap head for this as you can see my tap is a little dull so it keeps spinning in the collet but this did end up working out all [Music] right this is a final shot of the bung uh with the threads on the inside it ended up turning out really nice [Music] initially my plan here was to press this bung in about a quarter of an inch down into the pipe and then go ahead and do a socket weld around the perimeter what you're going to see is you're going to see me drill a right size hole to press that in there and then a clearance hole as you can see right here for the screw to go through but eventually i decided that i was going to press it in and make the press fit to be what holds the bung in place because i thought it would look nicer all right we've got one shot to do this we made this large pipe here that we're going to be pressing this bung into this hole diameter on this guy is about one and a half to two thousands smaller than this guy here i stuck it in the freezer so we could try to shrink it a little bit i'm also going to hit it with some air upside down try to get it a little bit colder and then we'll see what we can do [Music] here's a final look of how it turned out it turned out really nice and the press fit was very tight which will be perfect all right we're over here at the mill i just want to take a second and talk about our setup here and why we're over here doing this so we're getting ready to mount the tube here to the base i brought it over to the mill uh we got the base installed in the vise and i went ahead and dialed the base in so that it was uh in line with the x axis of the table what that allowed me to do is i can set the base on the the bottom there and i can true it in using the indicator that way it's parallel to the base so that way when we weld it it's straight now i know with welding there's always going to be movement but my goal was to be able to get it on here as accurately as possible to begin with if it's out a couple thousand either way it's not a big deal at all but wanted to try to start with it as accurate as possible instead of just kind of throwing it up there by eye so i went ahead and zeroed off here for the bung and went ahead and used this angle gauge uh zeroed it here and then put it on here so that way we could get that axis straight and then i ran the indicator along the back side uh and we're within about a half a thousand uh of straightness to the base so we're gonna come and tack this in place and then we'll bring it over to the bench and weld it out and go from there i was tig welding this over at the vise just so i had a good position i really wasn't concerned with the look of the bead i just wanted to get the weld built up that way we had a good surface to mill down [Music] similar to what we were doing before we're just milling down the weldment uh with that half inch rounded ball nose cutter it's not exactly the radius we want but that's okay i clean it up with a hand file just to dial in that last amount after cleaning it up on the belt grinder with a scotch bright belt this is the final look turned out quite nice and will be more than adequate for something that gets painted [Music] all right so we're going to be making a custom handle for this sidebar we're going to be doing it out of this threaded rod i wanted to do something that was hardenable so that way we can harden it because it's going to have some threads and i'm assuming that whatever this was made out of was a fairly hard material because it's used for thread but we're going to turn this down and make like a vise style handle with a sliding pin so let's get this guy going [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] looking at it from the top we're getting the front faced off and we're basically preparing this so that it can be threaded so i'm just reducing the shank size making multiple passes and then i'm going to come in here and get it threaded i'm using an alaris tool post threading attachment and i'm using a technique from joe piezinski where we run the lathe in reverse that way i'm not threading up to a shoulder it works quite well and i just made repeated passes about 5 000 each until i got to the place where i could check the diameter with a nut and was happy with everything [Music] this threaded handle turned out pretty nice the surface finish on it wasn't bad at all over here in the middle i have this mounted in an er 40 collet block we're going to be doing a cross hole for the sliding pin that's what we're drilling now with a carbide end mill this handle actually turned out quite a bit better than i thought it would uh looks really really nice we finished up this part i went ahead and made a handle for this off camera i just wasn't satisfied with the factory made handles and we tried to modify one of those factory handles but it just wasn't working out what we're going to be doing next is machining the shaft we have a diagram over here it's about 20 inches long and it has a step in it other than that it's pretty straightforward it does have a relief uh kind of like a d profile in the step down just so that it can be gripped kind of with this here and it doesn't rotate um we're going to get to working on that shaft let's get to it i've got the shaft set up between centers i had a little bit of run out across that distance but it wasn't really an issue because we're getting it turned down and i'm just using a negative rake insert to get the roughing done and then i follow it up with a positive rake insert just to get everything smoothed out i'm using my micrometer to check the size on the shaft to make sure we don't have a taper and we're within about a half thousandths over about 20 inches parting the end of the shaft off was a little bit of a bear because it is so long i didn't want to part it off completely and have it fall i could have set up a steady rest but instead i just parted it down to a small nub and then off camera went ahead and sawed it off i've got the shaft supported in my milling machine vise i just used some tape to hold on some card stock has some quick vise soft jaws and then we're using a 5 8 end mill here that's carbide just to go between the jaws and start milling out this relief step it really wasn't that difficult uh the hardest part was just making sure we had the shaft trued up in the vise we just finished the shaft up turned out really really nice take a look at the end i'm not sure if you're going to be able to see it there it is got a nice d profile got everything cleaned up we're going to be moving on to the top plate we'll take a look at that next looking at the drawing you can see that the next part we're making is relatively simple it just has a half 13 inch hole on one side and then a flat bottom hole on the other the flat bottom hole is going to be used for pressing in the shaft that we just made we start out with the piece in the vise and i went ahead and fly cut the top side so that way we can have a square reference surface and then once that's done we're going to start to go around the perimeter to square up the sides we'll be using that same 5 8 inch carbide end mill to do that and then we're also going to be using that technique we were using earlier where we're going to go around the entire perimeter that's going to give us a square shape and then we'll flip the part over and just clean up the edges doing it this way minimizes the amount of steps involved in squaring up a block it's a little bit more accurate as well i wanted to just double check the accuracy of this method putting it on a set of parallels we were at about five thousands that probably wouldn't be that bad if it's a real small piece um but with this being bigger i wanted to just dial it in we got it right now maybe two three tenths i don't want to spend all day i know that's way good enough um but it you know there's it it varies across the surface so from this end to this end it's anywhere between a tenth to five tenths um way good enough so we'll keep it there and we'll go from there [Music] we're going to start to drill that square bottom hole i'm using an end mill a 5 8 end mill to start and then we're switching out to a one inch end mill the goal here is to enlarge the hole as large as possible so that way i'm not spending years boring out this hole we get it to about an inch and an eighth and then i'm gonna switch over to the boring head and dial in the last amount i'm taking about a ten thousandths pass and i'm doing that maybe about five to ten times we finished up that last plate and got it pushed into the shaft here it's a real tight press fit uh probably about a thousandth maybe a little bit less than a thousandth of a press fit so it's really really tight in there everything's good on this piece we're just going to make one more piece that uh telescopes on top of the steel plate and we'll be making that out of aluminum over on the mill the last component in this guard is the aluminum top plate it's going to be milled out to be like a sea channel and then we're going to put a slot in it so that it can slide i'm using a one inch high speed steel end mill i just touched it up on a stone before we made these passes to get it real nice and sharp i'm going around the perimeter like we did in the last part just to get a nice square edge and then i'm going to go around the top with the fly cutter just to give us a flat surface [Music] using that mari tool shell mill i'm gonna come in and just trench out as much material as possible that way when i go to clean it up with the end mill later it's a little bit less work now these are the same exact inserts i was using earlier which are designed for steel so i didn't think this was going to work out that well to be honest but the surface finish is quite a bit better than i thought it would be i was experiencing some chatter at first but that was because the part is sticking out past the vise so i was able to make up some makeshift machinist jacks just to keep the deflection at a minimum and once that was done the surface finish was a lot nicer [Music] the last step in this entire build process is to cut the slot for this to slide on i'm using a brand new half inch end mill and i'm taking a full depth cut which is about 12 inches long but i'm taking it slow and it is aluminum so it was cutting rather easy [Music] well we finally finished it i got it in my hands here it's kind of large kind of get it up here rotate it around so you can kind of see it all together as one piece um it's complete it turned out really nice took quite a bit of time to make um but that's that's fine anything great takes a lot of time um one of the things that he is not aware of uh as i made them this handle uh we talked about using like a kip style handle which i was gonna do but when i put it on there it just didn't look right so although he didn't tell me to do that um i just did it for him because i think it looks better other than that i am waiting on o-ring we're gonna put an o-ring down here where this rod attaches to the boss that way when you lower this down has a nice cushioned feel as opposed to just like a metal smack and then up here at the top uh i have a bolt just temporarily we have a threaded knurled knob coming from mcmaster car that should be here probably today so but other than that we're all done i'm gonna get this shipped out i hope you guys enjoyed the build process it was definitely a challenging one uh but we were able to get it done all right if you have any questions comments please post them down below and we will see in the next video thanks guys

Channel: Vanover Customs

Views: 10,728

Rating: 4.9170985 out of 5

Keywords: Milling, Mill, Bridgeport, Lathe, Restoration, Build, Create, Manufacture, Metal lathe, Wadkin, Weld, Machinery, Vintage, Vintage machinery, Shop, Job shop, Flycutter, 2x72, Belt grinder, Carbide, Maker, Shaft

Id: 6QGr8L7sXfk

Length: 29min 29sec (1769 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 23 2021