Vintage Thursday. Massey Ferguson 35 PTO lever oil seal change.

hello everybody so in today's episode of vintage vintage thursday we are back in the workshop and we're going to be working on a little part of a massive ferguson 35 tractor um dates from 1959 got the four cylinder standard 23c engine in and today we're working on the back end and what we're going to do to change the oil seal in the pto selector shaft so okay so this is the side plate from the side of the transmission housing with the lever that you engage and disengage the pto in okay so central position is disengaged upwards towards the seat [Music] puts you into engine pto speed you go back through neutral down towards the ground gets you into grain speed pto and again click back to the center oh there we go for for neutral so in behind this so there's a shaft running through the plate and here where it comes through is an oil seal and it's leaking so what we need to do we need to pull this so this is just a big split pin in here which isn't right so we're going to take that out this lever comes away this way then the rod comes out of the cast in we need to be careful because in this top section there's a spring and a detent that acts into uh holes in this sector here and we need to make sure that doesn't disappear because that is what clicks that's what we just heard click in to hold it in the correct in the correct uh position for the right for all the speeds so first job we will pull this pin out and dismantle it and then here we have the new seal ready to go in just a little tiny one so let's get going okay so we need to remove this split pin in there should be just a standard straight pin and what we then do is we will burrow the ends over and stop it coming out so we'll pull this pin out he's a little bit tight he just wants tapping the lever then simply pulls off to reveal the shaft and then just in there and there is our old seal so this is where we need to be careful turn over gently pull it out in here you can see is the detent with a little spike and the spring so that's what we need to be careful of now we can just pull this apart so we've now got all our component parts so that's that scrap and all this needs to be re needs to be reused so we'll quickly take this over give it all a good clean and come back and start by removing the old seal all right so fairly simple just to pop the old seal out big screwdriver just be careful you don't damage the aluminium cast in because we don't want to be damaging that let's try different smaller screwdriver that one's a little bit too big to get in behind so okay just starting to move a little bit there you have to work him around a little bit at a time so just working around gently and any pops so this is the original steel cased seal with the leather innards and you can see it's just ages got to it so now we'll go and clean out our recess where we've just got that from okay so i've got all our got our parts cleaned up we will take our take our seal out the packet and just check just check for size so that's going to press in there nicely and fit onto the shaft we won't put it on because we need a bit of lubrication on there but it's the same as any other oil seal you need to make sure the side with the lip and the little spring goes towards the oil so this will be outside and the side of the spring will be towards the oil to provide the seal so we just need a little tiny one like this should be should be able to pop this in with our fingers just make sure it goes in square just work it round here we just give it a little tap just to make sure it's seated evenly all round is still a little bit high there just feel with your fingertip that's a nice even very slightly under the surface but not not a great deal okay so we will put a little bit of just clean oil onto that seal just make sure we don't turn inside out as we push through need a bit of lubrication to make sure the shaft just pops through that seal and then a little bit on the end [Music] a little bit on the shaft as well and then we need to make sure we get everything lined up so we need to line up towards our detent put the spring in make sure the detent goes in the right way with the point towards our lever and the square squared off shoulder into the spring it just sits into there and then don't lose anything gently push it together a little twist in motion as you go through the seal will help it and there we go you can see in the back of there maybe the detent acting into the into the little indentations in the back of here so hopefully you can see just inside there is the detent pushing against the indentations which is going to give us our selection of the three different positions for the lever okay so we have selected neutral in our selector and we will line our lever and that line you probably can't see down through there but the hole in the two levers lining up instead of that grille split pin we've got a nice new steel pin made especially for the job just made that up on the lathe so that is a tight fit into the lever get our hole get our holes lined up and gently tap to just leave a little bit proud each side there's a little bit there each side what we will do we'll hammer that to burr the ends over and that will then hold it all tight stop that pin coming out okay so we'll just use the voice as a makeshift anvil and just purr the first side turn over there's no good i can't think i can't go left-handed and do the same again that side that should give us a positive gear selection or speed selection and that pin is now securely held that's never going to fall out what we've done we've swelled the ends to very slightly fill the hole up in the actual lever so that's a good firm firm fit on there okay so in order to reinstall the side plate what we need to do is we need to just clean off all the old gasket from the ceiling face and we're just going to give it a light rub it over with a bit of bit of wet and dry paper um just to get that nice and shiny make sure we get a good clean surface to seal um wet and dry just make it a little bit wet with a bit of a bit of oil a little light oil and you get a much better much better surface and no dust which is most important we'll just give it a rub round just being careful making it wet and being careful we don't get the dust going inside which is what we don't want because our hydraulic pump is in there we don't want dirt and dust getting into that but we'll just be damping it down and not having it swimming in oil it just doesn't all the wet all the dust and anything you rub off doesn't go inside and contaminate our pump and then we'll just give that a rub get that oil off and you can see we've got a nice clean surface there to take our gasket okay so before we install we'll just take a quick look inside um so this is we'll give me another way so this here is the pto engagement gear okay so that is in its neutral position where it's free the shaft turns freely okay so in its central position it's in neutral to engage engine speed pto we slide it over the pto drive shaft and that engages engine speed pto okay to engage engage ground speed we go back through neutral which is here free spinning shaft to engage the big gear on the outside of that collar with the gear on the diff input pinion and that then gives you ground speed pto and then come forward again into neutral so the wheels can turn with no shaft turn and also the pump output connected to the engine [Music] turns as well once we're ready to install now so we'll take our got a new gasket which fits between the two parts so first off we'll just run a little smear of gasket sealer around the face to make sure we've got no leaks and it also holds the gasket in place while we put it together just helps things out a little bit so you don't need much otherwise it only squeezes out goes to waste and we don't want it squidging inside and getting caught up in our pump there's no filter in these the late they didn't put filters in in the early ones and this be in 1959 it's not particularly early one but there's still no still no filter in the pump okay so we've got our smear on we will line up our holes and then we will just put another light smearing on okay now this is a tricky bit so we've got our lever engaged into neutral and our gear inside into neutral so we need to feed it in line up our holes and get the internal lever engaged in the gear fix the cover back on with six bolts one of which is longer than the rest and that one goes here to take the footplate bracket so we can get five men and then we need to move the lever to get the final one behind check our movement so before we install the final bolt we're just going to show you a little nerdy fact that you might find useful one day so these side plate bolts are the right thread to fit into some tapped holes in the brake drums so if you come to take your brake drums off and the retaining screws you can get those retaining screws out which is quite often a bit of a bit of a task but if you get the retaining screws out and the brake drum still won't come off if you screw two side plate bolts into the two tapped holes here and here i'm at 90 degrees to the screw holes that will then should jack the drum away from the half shaft it doesn't always work um you can strip the threads out but it's there it's worth a go you know if you can't get your drum off it's certainly worth a try just screw a couple of side plate bolts into your holes and it should press it off [Music] right so nerdfact over we'll put the final bolt in just do them up equally around the around the air around the circumference just to make sure they're pulled in square and then just go around once more just to get them to the correct there probably is a torque figure for these bolts but just you know use your common sense you want an oil tight seal and you don't really go as crazy as you damage stuff so we've put this one in for now just to make sure the gasket seals up and sets properly but this actually this one here holding the foot plates will be coming off again in time what we're cleaning to ready for paint um but we'll put it in for now just to make sure that seals up properly and we'll check again for movement that's all fine so we'll go to neutral so we are currently in neutral and the shaft spins independently of everything we push into ground speed and just align the gears and then we're into ground speed pto and then we engage engine speed by sliding forward over the shaft at the back of the pump there is always while the engine is turning and the clutch is engaged this this shaft is always turning i'm going to the middle just for neutral and the shaft turns independent of anything else so obviously it wouldn't be turning either when we're moving because this would be turning or the engine running because this shaft here would be turning right so there we go this little job completed um so next in line for this for this project will be we will be working on the top cover getting the top cover put back together and put back on although that's a little way in the future but um it will be coming up so thank you very much for watching if you haven't already done so please subscribe to the channel and stick around for more vintage thursdays so thanks for watching and we'll see you next time

Channel: CowfarmerDan

Views: 23,532

Rating: 4.9421487 out of 5

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Id: lZYvMmz1CdE

Length: 21min 49sec (1309 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 06 2020